The Toshiba DLP (HM/HMX) Owners Thread - Page 71

well after the tv in the shop for a week, for my picture loss problem, i let them know a member on this forum had the same problem. A repair shop in tenn. replaced the light engnie. it solved his picture loss problem. so the repair shop got auth. yesterday to replace the light engine in my set.
It will take a week for parts, another week to install & test. about 1 1/2 months without my 62" .... damn!
Hopefully it fixes it

I would say that an extended warranty is over and the same as whatever the original company states. As told by others here, the LAMP UNIT is covered by the warranty and for 1 year, so your extended deal must include this part. This is not a simple bulb, it's the LAMP UNIT and what is not covered is the labor of uninstalling/installing from the TV.

This is what "user replaceable component" probably means; they won't send a technician for free to replace the unit in your TV, but the unit itself is free.

Stay with your extended plan and don't loose the TV's manual, because the wording is there. This is important because in those 5 years it's likely that you'll need to replace the lamp at least once and that's what, $200 or $300? That's a nice save.

OK, All week without setting up TVGOS and the system is working perfectly!

I'm beginning to believe it's in the programming of the TVGOS...

Chetty, you may be right. I spoke with TVGOS today and they are aware of a problem with the downloads. Apparently bad packets are being processed which eventually corrupts the data and causes the listings to be wiped out. I had the TV reset on me twice when trying to access the guide and each time the listings and channel line up are gone. Since you haven't reprogrammed your TV the packets aren't being processed. They are supposed to let me know when they have a fix for it and once they do it will be sent with the normal downloads from the VBI channel. Mine hasn't reset since the 28th but it seems like around 5 days before it happens. The woman from TVGOS said it would probably reset again once the corruption reaches a certain point. When the TV did reset it would try to restart on it's own and the last time after about 3 or 4 attempts the TV did come on.

Hey there everyone, I was hoping to get some feedback on this problem I'm having. My set is the Tosh 52HMX84 and I only had it for 4 weeks and what seems to be happening is that the red light stays solid and the green light blinks and restart automatically. There is no picture at all and the set restarts, from what I understand it could be the lamp but the technician came by today and said it was not the lamp and will have to order some parts for the unit as he failed to mention which ones in particular. All the technician did was check the power supply, wiring on the set (on/off wiring) and the lamp itself. Any ideas what the problem could be and if any members here have shared this issue what was the cause of it and how can it be taken care of quickly?

Did you read Chetty' s posts? Are you using the TVGOS? It could be related to the corruption issue which causes the guide listings to wipe out. it has caused my set to reset when pressing the guide but it is possible if it happens during a download when you try to turn on the set it could be causing this behavior. You need to count the time between blinks as there are two potential types.

UPDATE: I posted earlier about a problem with the remote having a high pitched squeal when you press or use the backlight and others reported they noticed the same thing. I had Toshiba send me a new remote and it has the same problem so it must a design defect. It's no big deal as I don't even use it since I have a JP1 programmable one but I thought I would pass it along for any of you that do use your remote.

Ok I tried reading this whole thread, but I only got to like page 50. I just purchased a sammy 46" dlp about 25 days ago. I convinced best buy to pay for the ISF calibration on the TV. Yet, there is only one dealer in my area that does ISF calibrations and he told me he would not do the sammy's because they are a peice of junk.

Well I was in his store looking at receivers and speakers and I remembered that he carried the toshiba DLPs. So I asked him if I got the toshiba from best buy, if he would calibrate it for me...and he said yes.

Now I have already talked with BB and they are going to deliver the new toshiba 52" and take my sammy 46" away. And its only going to cost me $85 more.

The biggest reason I am going to be using this tv is for playing xbox. I just want to make sure that this will do a better or as good job as the sammy did. My sammy didnt have any lag issues...which is a major concern with those sets. Also SD cable looked real washed out.

I do know one thing though, when I was at the ISF calibrators audio/video store I asked him to change the channel on the toshiba from HD to SD and he told me it was already on an analog channel. I couldnt believe it. His calibrated toshiba looked better in analog than my sammy looked in HD. I should be getting this set in the middle of next week.

how much was the calibration?
free to you, i know. but whats the charge?

the calibration is going to be over $500...and my extended service plan(the warranty) only cost $399...so it was a deal to me.

Does anyone have a Iscan HD+ hooked to their Tosh DLP? Did it make a big difference? Was it worth the $1400?

Thanks

My Toshiba remote makes the noise as well. I also have a RadioShack 15-2117 8-in-one IR/RF remote that is JP1 programmable and has backlighting and this remote also makes a high pitch squeal when the backlighting is on although it is not as loud as the Toshiba's remote. I guess it's just something in the type of electronics they use for the backlighting.

Jeff

Jeff, I have four of the same remotes and I never noticed it before. So I went and checked all four of them and you are right. It is a lot quieter then the Toshiba remote and that's why I guess I never noticed the sound before. By the way, how do you like the remote? Have you built a file for the TV yet? If not, feel free to start with the one I created that you can use with Key Master and IR. I am attaching it for you. I found the codes for all of the picture modes except TW3. Let me know if you have any I don't have listed as I have the file posted on the Yahoo JP1 forum.

 

toshiba_62hmx94 final.txt 5.251953125k . file

has anyone here got their tosh, professionaly isf calibrated? someone in another thread said they saw it and was amazing, wondering if anyone knows the diff is?

well BB is picking up my samsung 4663 and dropping off the HM5284 this saturday, then after about 100 hours on the bulb im going to have it ISF calibrated...so I will know after that.

But I have seen the 6194 calibrated and this is a funny story. I asked the owner if he could change the channel to an analog channel from the HD channel...and he laughed and said it was already on an analog channel. Thats right...the ISF calibrated analog channel looked better than my HD channels. Now he was using satelite where I use cable, so that probably made a huge difference, but it was a lot nicer.

I am have the same problem as well. 3 visits by Comcast techs unsuccessful, all I could see was one channel and was unable to change the channel, TV indicated tha it was updating channel info and cable card is in an "unknown" state in the menu settings. I contacted Toshiba and they sent me the latest firmware update. I successfully installed the Toshiba update and will have Comcast return on 4/18 when I am off from work. I will keep you posted.

I just bought a 62HM14 from Costco. The instruction manual also has that model designation. It was manufactured in March 2005. Anyone have any ideas if there are differences between this and the HM84 or is this just a differentiated model number to prevent price matching?

Taz21, Can you respond in the following thread when Comcast returns?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hreadid=525220

I have the firmware ordered and hopefully it will be in by Thursday or Friday. I will be calling Comcast back if the card doesn't start working when I update the firmware.

From previous posts I have seen it is the same set but has an exlcusive model number from Costco.

so Julio, what you say is Tosh user manual is wrong that 1080i isn't the best resol to get best PQ out of this HM(X) DLP? instead 720p gives you the best overall PQ.

a guy told me what he got when talked to Tosh CS rep. this DLP converts all signals (480i/p, 1080i/p) to 720p. if this is true, then what printed on manual is really wrong.

is there any method can check what the input resol is? 62HM84.
tks.

Yesterday a technician from the authorized Toshiba repair center attempted
to replace the HDMI board in my 52HM84, in an attempt to improve ghosting
on the HDMI inputs. When he turned the power back on, something got really
hot and smoked. The TV is now dead.

Toshiba refuses to authorize a replacement, they say I have to get it
repaired. The repair shop insists they will only do what Toshiba authorizes.
I bought the TV last october from Best Buy, so the 30 day window to return
it there is gone.

So choose carefully when deciding whether to chase improvement of the HDMI
ghosting.

In a separate thread you started on this, you say that you bought it from CC while reporting BB on this thread. So, which one is it?

It would have to be Best Buy as Circuit City does not carry Toshiba televisions.

Woops, that other thread was accidental, I have asked for it to be deleted.

The store is Best Buy.

Wow, I actually read 107 pages... took me like a week to do it! I have the 46HM84. As far as the 720p arguement goes, Last night i set my STB to "passthrough" so that the 720p signal stays to it's native res., same goes for the 1080i signals. So to sum up, if you are watching HD content, it's better to keep it at it's native signal resolution. FOX programming is 720p, last night I had my STB set to 720p watching American Idol and it looked perfect. (it's very hard to see a difference between 1080i and 720p). Also when the show HOUSE came on, it looked better set to 720p than at 1080i. You see for a month now my STB was set to 1080i, because my thinking was that would be better. Now we know the official res. of our DLP sets is 720p... so i will now set my upconverting DVD player to 720p instead of 1080i. FYI: i purchased my 46HM84 about a month ago from BUYDIG.COM for a very good price... actually best price online doing a pricegrabber.com search - it was free shipping, i got the matching stand, the Toshiba SD-5970 upconverting player, and a warranty plan all from BUYDIG.com for a nice price...(I read though that Sears does pricematching of online prices... so I could have done the brick & mortor route...oh well)...

I disagree.

If I set my STB to 1080i output, the PQ is actually CONSIDERABLY better than 720p signal. Makes sense since you are providing the TV with a higher quality signal for it to eventually downconvert to the 720p it has to. I guess it doesn't muck with it too much, and that's why the 1080i signal looks way better than the 720p. For the record I have DISH NETWORK HD receiver doing this.

Now of course if you start out with crap, such as a DVD which is 480i, upconverting via your DVD player 720p vs 1080i shows NO difference whatsoever (between those 2 rez that is, but there IS a big improvement over 480p of course).

I notice a difference depending on how I have my STB connected to my 62HM84.

I have the Comcast HD box (Motorola DVR) connected via a DVI-HDMI cable, and the picture is definitely better when I set the STB to output a 720p signal vs a 1080i. This is especially true when I watch a HD channel that is native 720p; American Idol on FOX-HD last night was incredible (the picture quality, I mean).

When I had the STB connected via component, I could see very little difference between setting the box to 720p and 1080i, with a slight edge to 1080i (maybe).

FWIW.

Dave

I have mine connected via component. Regardless of the native rez used by the broadcaster for a particular channel, 1080i output from the STB results in superior PQ over 720p.

If anyone has a Dish HD receiver (I think it's the 902 model) with a DLP set, test it out and let us know.

But the difference for me is HUGE so that's why I keep it on 1080i regardless of channel. It's a bit sad, because sometimes, some of the 720p-native channels like Fox-HD jitter slightly horizontally (which has been explained in other threads as to why that happens). However the jitter is minimal enough to be acceptable in return for a better PQ.

And for the record, this claim of "progressive is better for sports or fast-action viewing" is, IMO, hogwash. I've never seen that, not once. No difference. No offense to anyone.

so were you generally pleased with your experience with buydig? i've noticed they have some very good prices, but have been weary about using them due to some bad reviews from customers.

I think the display has a better scaler than the one used in the STB's. Setting the STB to 1080i (unless you are lucky enough to have one with a pass-through setting) means the display handles most of the scaling. Only three channels broadcast in 720p (FOX, ABC, and ESPN). I would rather the display scale the seven other channels and deal with three that undergo two conversions than have the STB scale the seven channels and the display not do any scaling.

Yes, I was pleased. Shipping took about a week, but for a large item I expected at least a week. The box did not appear overly damaged in any way. My overall experience with them was pleasant and for the price I paid for everything, I don't know if I could have done better...