When high power is viewable but low power isn't, it's time to get a new bulb.
Thanks, Hunter Green. I'm going to return the bulb to Discount-Merchant bulbs. Based on my conversation with a customer rep there a week or so ago I have a suspicion that they're going to argue the bulb isn't bad and try to charge me $20 for a replacement. Is there any way to "prove" the bulb is bad? Thanks!
Apparently this is a new one, because I don't find it here...Anyway I'll try, maybe someone knows about this.
Yesterday I arrived from work and the green light was on, but TV was off. When turned on, although input was HDMI, the unit began changing channels (this with nothing on them, since I have no antenna connected).
I disconnected the power chord for a while, and apparently everything was fine.
Today, when returning from work, when turned on, green and red lighted steadily and the TV did nothing else, with no response to the remote. I went for the power chord again and all fine now, but I'm worried. What could be happening?
Hey everyone. I have a 72HM196 and am wondering what the latest firmware version everyone has? i haven't updated it at all since i got the TV 3 years ago. also, how would i do an update? thanks.
Thanks, Hunter Green. I'm going to return the bulb to Discount-Merchant bulbs. Based on my conversation with a customer rep there a week or so ago I have a suspicion that they're going to argue the bulb isn't bad and try to charge me $20 for a replacement. Is there any way to "prove" the bulb is bad? Thanks!
Bumping this one up.
Is there any "test" to do on the bulb (e.g. resistance) before sending it back to prove it's bad? Thanks!
Hey guys, I am in need of some help. I have been scouring the depts of the internet looking for some set up info for my Toshiba 50HM67, and I can't find any. So these are my questions:
1). I just bought a blu-ray player and I want to know which resolution output I should use/if I should/can use 24fps mode on my player.
2). Just any general setup info that I should know to get the most out of this tv with my HD Verizon Fios cable box, and my XBox 360. Thanks.
I probably will buy a ballast RPB-4434ZA PN-23122468 from US then ask local dealer [Taiwan] to install for me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shackler79
Ok, so has anyone done this replacement? I'm pretty sure (but not positive) this is what I need to do to my 52HMX94 as well. I've tried talking to the place where I bought my TV, but I just keep getting snubbed.
If been done, where did you buy the ballast from and how difficult was it to replace? Please advise....thanks so much in advance!
technician says its ballast problem, quotes $390 and have to wait 1.5 months.
think to order it online then send to me directly.
so should I buy 23122468 or 23122468P?
Quote:
Originally Posted by smergs
I have a Toshiba 52HM84.
The issue started around a month ago. When turning the TV on the red light would stay solid and the green light would blink 9 times. I would hear the audio but no video. The TV would then attempt to restart and would usually come on the second time. Recently it just started working again almost every time that I started it up. However, yesterday it started the symptoms again and I am lucky if I am able to get it to actually come on. Same thing was happening this morning as I as getting ready to leave for work. I have since talked to my wife and she was able to get the tv to come on after I left. I'm just trying to verify if this is indeed a Ballast issue and if that is what I need to replace.
Second question is what is the difference between part #'s 23122468 and 23122468P. They sound like they are the same thing, but the part that ends in P seems to be about half the price of the other. Is there any difference?
I bought a new bulb and replaced my old one. It fixed my flickering issue. The only weird thing is now when I turn on TV, it takes 3 attempts of TV turning itself off and then back on before it displays picture. I bought a Toshiba OEM bulb from discount-merhcant.
Any ideas on what issue is? Bad bulb or something else?
Hello everyone, I recently was given a 72MX195, which needed a lamp, for free. It came from a friend of mine who bought it around 2008. Very shortly after he bought it, it needed a lamp, then shortly after that the light engine went out, which took a little over 3 months to be repaired. During this time, he ended up just getting a new TV. When the TV came back from the light engine repair, he really had no room for it, so he loaned it to his neighbor who used it without issue for about a year, until the lamp died again. The neighbor returned the TV not working, and he had no room for it, so he gave me the set as-is.
I replaced the lamp last week with a new, non-OEM module from apexlamps.com. Now everything is working, but I'm seeing blue flickering lines across the screen, which seem to come from bright white or blue images. It started as an intermittent problem, which would go away after a few minutes. Then it got where it would come and go by the hour, be clear for an hour, then have the blue filckering lines for about an hour. Now it seems to do it nearly 100% of the time. It does it on all inputs, across all resolutions. Turning the settings to movie, and color temp to warm, minimizes the lines, but they are still very noticeable. I also tried a factory reset, but no luck.
I wish I could describe the flickering lines better, but instead I took a video...
At 25-40 seconds you can really get a good idea of the problem.
If anyone has any info on this I would greatly appreciate it. I replaced my Toshiba 46H84 with this TV and during the the few days that it worked perfectly, I fell in love with the size and really don't want to go back to my 46.
Hello I have been scouring the net for 2 days now and I am at a complete loss. I own a 62HMX94 It was working perfectly 2 nights ago. However My wife went to turn the television on and three different things happened one thing was it would not recognize our cable in the slot it had been plugged into for years. the second thing is we had absolutely no sounds on any channels or on any of our devices. Third thing was our PS3 when booted up the screen flashes green every once in a while, it is plugged into an hdmi port we have a Wii and a 360 and there are no problems with them other than no sound but they are not plugged into an HDMI port. We switched the cable around so it works now but not in the same slot it was in. However we still have no sound and still have the problem with the PS3. Please Help! Also another big problem that I forgot was that my remote control lags now. I have to hold in the power button and any other button for a good 10 seconds before it registers that I am pushing it. It also lags between changing channels.
Hello everyone, I recently was given a 72MX195, which needed a lamp, for free. It came from a friend of mine who bought it around 2008. Very shortly after he bought it, it needed a lamp, then shortly after that the light engine went out, which took a little over 3 months to be repaired. During this time, he ended up just getting a new TV. When the TV came back from the light engine repair, he really had no room for it, so he loaned it to his neighbor who used it without issue for about a year, until the lamp died again. The neighbor returned the TV not working, and he had no room for it, so he gave me the set as-is.
I replaced the lamp last week with a new, non-OEM module from apexlamps.com. Now everything is working, but I'm seeing blue flickering lines across the screen, which seem to come from bright white or blue images. It started as an intermittent problem, which would go away after a few minutes. Then it got where it would come and go by the hour, be clear for an hour, then have the blue filckering lines for about an hour. Now it seems to do it nearly 100% of the time. It does it on all inputs, across all resolutions. Turning the settings to movie, and color temp to warm, minimizes the lines, but they are still very noticeable. I also tried a factory reset, but no luck.
I wish I could describe the flickering lines better, but instead I took a video...
At 25-40 seconds you can really get a good idea of the problem.
If anyone has any info on this I would greatly appreciate it. I replaced my Toshiba 46H84 with this TV and during the the few days that it worked perfectly, I fell in love with the size and really don't want to go back to my 46.
Don't call a tech out as he will just tell you you need a new light engine. The color wheel has dust on it. All you need to do is clean it off and it will be as good as new
Hey guys, I am in need of some help. I have been scouring the depts of the internet looking for some set up info for my Toshiba 50HM67, and I can't find any. So these are my questions:
1). I just bought a blu-ray player and I want to know which resolution output I should use/if I should/can use 24fps mode on my player.
2). Just any general setup info that I should know to get the most out of this tv with my HD Verizon Fios cable box, and my XBox 360. Thanks.
I have the same model set. Although it is 720p, I notice a significantly better image if I set the BD output to 1080p. I remember a discussion about this set about 3 years ago and someone pointed out that Toshiba video processing works better with 1080p inputs.
but HM84 series wont accept 1080p........
wont even take HDMI from Onkyo 905......
anyone knows how to update firmware of Tosh 62HM84?
Quote:
Originally Posted by briansxx
I have the same model set. Although it is 720p, I notice a significantly better image if I set the BD output to 1080p. I remember a discussion about this set about 3 years ago and someone pointed out that Toshiba video processing works better with 1080p inputs.
I was planning on trying to stop the cooling fan this weekend since the grinding noise had subsided. However my lamp just blew so I'm thinking the cooling fan was the problem. Anything I should check before I replace the lamp? I guess I should go ahead and replace the fan too?
Decided to just get a new TV. If I sold my 62HM195 for parts, how much would it be worth?
Don't call a tech out as he will just tell you you need a new light engine. The color wheel has dust on it. All you need to do is clean it off and it will be as good as new
Thanks for the advice, I tried a cleaning last night, and while it worked okay, its still not perfect. I'd say the picture is much more watchable now, now instead of seeing the lines on brighter images, you only see them on dark images. However, on the dark images, they are much worse than they ever were before. Now don't get me wrong, I'm hardly complaining, the worst time is the 2 second black screen pause between commercials. The rest of the time you can just tell there is like a solarized blue haze over the picture.
What I'm getting at, is should I try to clean it again? Or could this perhaps mean the color wheel is bad? I did notice I removed a layer of dust from the wheel, but I'm worried the cotton swabs I used may have left tiny cotton dust strands of their own. Thank you again for the help so far, I'm all ears if you have any more suggestions.
I cleaned every part of a free 52hm95 that my brother gave
and the picture is really pretty impressive now.....
M Y BROTHER CAN NOT BELIEVE ITS THE SAME TV..
The color wheel is going on it does anybody no of a wheel from another company like a samsung that fits it as the only one i could find was 275 ......
There are so many color wheels that look like they might work with a little diy.....Anybody got any ideas or a place that has replacements.......
I have a 52HM84 and recently I replaced the lamp, cleaned the lenses, screen, and mirror. Colors look deeper and brighter, BUT...there's a light fluctuation that happens ocasionally on bright images. It's like the light was changing between high and low, although it's set for low.
I'm worried this has to do with the ballast and that I may loose my new lamp. What is your take on this?
I have a 62HM195...It's more than a few years old, and I have replaced the bulb once. A month or so after I replaced the bulb, the picture started to get a red "ghosting" in it. All of the figures in the picture have a red outline to the right of them. I have no idea what is going on. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
what is the market for these tv's?? bulb just burnt out on me again, and I purchased a new LED TV, so looking to see if there is an actual market for these.
Thanks for the idea! I switched it from low power to high power and the TV has now been on for about 5 hours without an issue. So that's good for now but would that imply that the problem I saw before was due to a bad lamp or something else? Still trying to figure out if I should send the lamp back for replacement under warranty or not....
Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter Green
When high power is viewable but low power isn't, it's time to get a new bulb.
Hmmm....so switching from low power to high power got my TV working again. It worked well for a good month or two. However, now when I turn it on it doesn't turn on right away....it does the green light/red light thing a time or two and then turns on and works normally from that point forward. Does that still point to a bad bulb or is it likely that I'll run into the same problem after replacing the bulb? Thanks for any feedback!
Hmmm....so switching from low power to high power got my TV working again. It worked well for a good month or two. However, now when I turn it on it doesn't turn on right away....it does the green light/red light thing a time or two and then turns on and works normally from that point forward. Does that still point to a bad bulb or is it likely that I'll run into the same problem after replacing the bulb? Thanks for any feedback!
Gentlemen and ladies, any thoughts on this new behavior? Switching from low power to high power seemed to solve the problem and others here indicated that that was a sign of a bad bulb. Does the fact that I've since had problems getting the TV to turn on still point to a bad bulb or is that a sign something else (e.g. ballast) is dying? Thanks!!!
Gentlemen and ladies, any thoughts on this new behavior? Switching from low power to high power seemed to solve the problem and others here indicated that that was a sign of a bad bulb. Does the fact that I've since had problems getting the TV to turn on still point to a bad bulb or is that a sign something else (e.g. ballast) is dying? Thanks!!!
I have the 62HMX94 and say it points to a bad bulb. I have had to replace mine at least three times and have seen all different symptoms. One would periodically take two or three attempts to come to brightness and then would be fine. Another one would gradually start to dim and only changing to HI power would correct it. I have also had one that just blew one day after starting.
Personally, I don't know why everyone with this type of set doesn't carry a spare on hand. When they go, you are left without a TV for 2-3 days at least. I keep the one on hand that takes a few times to start and when I start having problems I can easily swap it with that one to see if the problem is corrected. If so, I just put the original back until it fails completely and then order a new one and then I put the one with the restart problem back on the shelf for the next time.
Man, I tell you, I'm about done with this DLP TV. I have a 62HM196 that I got just about 4 years ago. The original bulb lasted a bit over three years, which was great. I picked up a replacement bulb on Amazon and that one only lasted me 9 months.
So, ordered a third bulb off of eBay late last week and it arrived yesterday. Worked for about a day, and now no picture again. I've reached out to them for a replacement, but we'll see.
So, I have two questions. First, I noticed the latest bulb had two half moon shaped cutouts on the sides of the reflective cone, so the cone isn't actually completely sealed. I read somewhere else that the bulb gets pressurized, so I'm not sure if the bulb was defective or it just really get pressurized. Anyone know if the bulbs are supposed to be completely sealed?
Second, I've never updated the firmware. I've watched the Toshiba site, but never seen any new one announced. Anyone know if there's anything more recent than the 2006 firmware that was on mine. I don't know the exact rev that's on mine since it's just what it's come with, but I do remember seeing 2006 in the date.
and that one only lasted me 9 months.
