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Mitsubishi WD XX725 owners thread - Page 198

post #5911 of 7433
11/10/08 at 11:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by noplasma View Post

By "almost all caps", you're referring to the FMT board right?

Also, when you said that you saw wavy lines on all inputs, did that include the antenna input? I believe we're getting the lines on all inputs right now except antenna.


No. "Almost all caps" on the FMT board were replaced.

The earlier (Feb '08) issue was wavy lines on all inputs before warmup (after loss of AC for an extended period). I did not check the tuner so I guess "all inputs" may be a bit misleading. This issue was fixed by replacing the caps on the DM board. I found the old attachment and resposted to this response. The smaller circle are the caps I changed, the larger circle is where all the "suspects" were.

Here are some other posts that may help remind people:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post12736094

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post12947846
LL
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post #5912 of 7433
11/10/08 at 3:03pm
Thanks TBully. I agree.... There are MANY caps that are suspect on both boards. I picked up another 52725 from craigslist for $200 with the BGLOG. I was thinking format board but I swapped boards and narrowed it down to the DM board. I replaced the 4 1000 uf caps but it didn't fix it. I ordered an ESR meter so that will be here later in the week. I am going to order a **** load of caps and do what you did. Just start replacing. Hopfully the ESR meter can point me to some bad ones too.
Looking at some of the specs on these caps (even the ones you ordered for the DM board fix) the lifetime is 1000 Hrs @ 105°C. I have seen some around 2000 hours also. So I am not surprised at all that these caps are failing. Esp the ones that are hot 24/7.
Do you have the part numbers for all the caps you replaced on this last go around? If you do that would be great. If that is going to be in your writeup then I will wait patiently. What is your best technique for removing these caps? A soldering iron on both sides or heating and prying one side at a time? Thanks again......
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post #5913 of 7433
11/10/08 at 3:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeisfishing View Post

Thanks TBully. I agree.... There are MANY caps that are suspect on both boards. I picked up another 52725 from craigslist for $200 with the BGLOG. I was thinking format board but I swapped boards and narrowed it down to the DM board. I replaced the 4 1000 uf caps but it didn't fix it. I ordered an ESR meter so that will be here later in the week. I am going to order a **** load of caps and do what you did. Just start replacing. Hopfully the ESR meter can point me to some bad ones too.
Looking at some of the specs on these caps (even the ones you ordered for the DM board fix) the lifetime is 1000 Hrs @ 105°C. I have seen some around 2000 hours also. So I am not surprised at all that these caps are failing. Esp the ones that are hot 24/7.
Do you have the part numbers for all the caps you replaced on this last go around? If you do that would be great. If that is going to be in your writeup then I will wait patiently. What is your best technique for removing these caps? A soldering iron on both sides or heating and prying one side at a time? Thanks again......

The "two iron" trick is best but you can also use one and carefully lift a side at a time (not too high). I think noplasma had a couple good links today but I haven't checked them yet.

Another interesting find about thg GBLOD being on the DM board. I wonder if that means mine will fail again soon! :-) I'm confident in my fix because I could see the mess on the scope but it makes me wonder a bit......



I do not have the parts list for my latest work. :-( I simply walked over to the wall of parts and grabbed what I needed so we didn't keep track. I'm very sorry about that.
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post #5914 of 7433
11/10/08 at 3:16pm
Is there a moderator around that'll let me post more than 500KB?

My presentation is about 1.7 MB.
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post #5915 of 7433
11/10/08 at 4:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcarlton View Post


So what do we do?
  1. Have an authorized Mitsubishi service center attempt to repair it.
  2. Class action law suit.
  3. Try to repair the set yourself.
  4. Plead with Mitsubishi to give you a break on parts and labor since it is a known problem with the chassis.
  5. Put the set on the curb.
  6. Give the set to a (soon to be ex) friend.
  7. Donate the set to a charity and take a tax write off.
  8. Buy another brand of TV.
  9. Never buy a Mitsubishi product.

I chose 6, 8 and 9.
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post #5916 of 7433
11/11/08 at 7:21am
Well, my turn has come up. I got a replacement bulb (old one still worked fine, but I thought I'd replace it under warranty and keep it as a backup), and after installing it, I'm now where many have been.

TV has been without ac power for about one week. Put new bulb in, tv powers on, I get audio but no pic. Lamp light is orange, and I figure the tv is asking if I've replaced the bulb. I press 'enter' for 'yes', seconds later the tv shuts itself off and lamp light turns red. Consequent power ups result in tv doing nothing at all. Oh, and trying the reset switch results in the BGLOD. I had a suspicion I'd be in this situation if I replaced the bulb, but I had to take a chance to make sure the new bulb was actually good.

So, what is it about replacing the bulb that leads to all of the known problems to show themselves? I've lost power a couple of times recently, but the tv would still power up normally. And why does the tv timeout successfully after removal of ac power, but not so when using the reset switch? Ah, the mysteries of this line of tvs.

I don't know what I'm going to do about the extended warranty service. I'm not the type that will tolerate what many here have endured, and I have more confidence that I can fix it completely (thanks to TBully) before Mits supplies a working chassis. It will all come down to the impression I get from the repair folks who show up. Then there's the gamble of maybe ending up with a replacement if it is unfixable, but I don't know what Philllips' (my extended warranty company) terms are for offering that.
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post #5917 of 7433
11/11/08 at 7:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by garciab View Post

Well, my turn has come up. I got a replacement bulb (old one still worked fine, but I thought I'd replace it under warranty and keep it as a backup), and after installing it, I'm now where many have been.

TV has been without ac power for about one week. Put new bulb in, tv powers on, I get audio but no pic. Lamp light is orange, and I figure the tv is asking if I've replaced the bulb. I press 'enter' for 'yes', seconds later the tv shuts itself off and lamp light turns red. Consequent power ups result in tv doing nothing at all. Oh, and trying the reset switch results in the BGLOD. I had a suspicion I'd be in this situation if I replaced the bulb, but I had to take a chance to make sure the new bulb was actually good.

So, what is it about replacing the bulb that leads to all of the known problems to show themselves? I've lost power a couple of times recently, but the tv would still power up normally. And why does the tv timeout successfully after removal of ac power, but not so when using the reset switch? Ah, the mysteries of this line of tvs.

I don't know what I'm going to do about the extended warranty service. I'm not the type that will tolerate what many here have endured, and I have more confidence that I can fix it completely (thanks to TBully) before Mits supplies a working chassis. It will all come down to the impression I get from the repair folks who show up. Then there's the gamble of maybe ending up with a replacement if it is unfixable, but I don't know what Philllips' (my extended warranty company) terms are for offering that.

Garcia - strange you got the orange light after replacing the bulb. You may want to make sure the contacts, which the bulb seats in to, didn't fall through the back when sliding in the new assembly. I've heard of this happening to people several times.

Another cause is the bad caps on the PWB which has been documented a few times here and elsewhere on the net.

I have my writeup complete but I'm trying to get permission from a moderator to post it. It's larger than the 500KB limit. I really don't want to use one of those file sharer sites.
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post #5918 of 7433
11/11/08 at 7:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by garciab View Post

Well, my turn has come up. I got a replacement bulb (old one still worked fine, but I thought I'd replace it under warranty and keep it as a backup), and after installing it, I'm now where many have been.

TV has been without ac power for about one week. Put new bulb in, tv powers on, I get audio but no pic. Lamp light is orange, and I figure the tv is asking if I've replaced the bulb. I press 'enter' for 'yes', seconds later the tv shuts itself off and lamp light turns red. Consequent power ups result in tv doing nothing at all. Oh, and trying the reset switch results in the BGLOD. I had a suspicion I'd be in this situation if I replaced the bulb, but I had to take a chance to make sure the new bulb was actually good.

So, what is it about replacing the bulb that leads to all of the known problems to show themselves? I've lost power a couple of times recently, but the tv would still power up normally. And why does the tv timeout successfully after removal of ac power, but not so when using the reset switch? Ah, the mysteries of this line of tvs.

I don't know what I'm going to do about the extended warranty service. I'm not the type that will tolerate what many here have endured, and I have more confidence that I can fix it completely (thanks to TBully) before Mits supplies a working chassis. It will all come down to the impression I get from the repair folks who show up. Then there's the gamble of maybe ending up with a replacement if it is unfixable, but I don't know what Philllips' (my extended warranty company) terms are for offering that.

Makes me scared to change the bulb. I've now had the new bulb for over a year and haven't replaced it because of all the horror stories. I'm still using the original bulb because it seems to work fine.
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post #5919 of 7433
11/11/08 at 8:33am
The WD-52525 finally died over the weekend. When I plug in the set the green lights flash and there are audible pops through the speakers. I fixed the set once using the information I found in this very helpful (but depressing) thread but this time I threw in the towel.

I purchased a Samsung LT52A650 to replace the Mitsu. I hope the Sammy, which cost about half of what the Mitsu cost me, lasts longer than the measly 4.5 years I got out of the Mitsu. I was depressed to find that it cost about $850/year to watch that damn thing.

Anyone know what I can do with the Mitsu, other than simply throw it to the curb on bulk trash day?
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post #5920 of 7433
11/11/08 at 10:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rchapman View Post

The WD-52525 finally died over the weekend. When I plug in the set the green lights flash and there are audible pops through the speakers. I fixed the set once using the information I found in this very helpful (but depressing) thread but this time I threw in the towel.

I purchased a Samsung LT52A650 to replace the Mitsu. I hope the Sammy, which cost about half of what the Mitsu cost me, lasts longer than the measly 4.5 years I got out of the Mitsu. I was depressed to find that it cost about $850/year to watch that damn thing.

Anyone know what I can do with the Mitsu, other than simply throw it to the curb on bulk trash day?

Offer it up to a local who might want it for spare parts? I know I'd take one for free if there were one in my area.
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post #5921 of 7433
11/11/08 at 10:26am
"The Warranty Group" are apparently looking at comparable TVs instead of rebuilding my chassis. I don't quite know what my best course of action would be at this stage. They are looking at "comparable models" at this point. If/when I get model nos. I'll post them -- but until then, has anyone had a similar experience lately with this particular company (I'm kinda looking out for what to expect -- lowballing etc.). Any advice appreciated, thanks.

SD
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post #5922 of 7433
11/11/08 at 10:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbully View Post

Garcia - strange you got the orange light after replacing the bulb. You may want to make sure the contacts, which the bulb seats in to, didn't fall through the back when sliding in the new assembly. I've heard of this happening to people several times.

Another cause is the bad caps on the PWB which has been documented a few times here and elsewhere on the net.

I have my writeup complete but I'm trying to get permission from a moderator to post it. It's larger than the 500KB limit. I really don't want to use one of those file sharer sites.

I think the firmware fine-tuned the sequence for activating the orange light. IME, with the latest, once it determines that the orange light should be on (past 5000 hours of present bulb life), it illuminates it as part of the power on sequence (after each interruption of power).

I checked the connector before I installed the new bulb, and it seemed solidly in place. After the set failed to light the bulb after the first power up, and the tv shut itself down, I removed ac power and checked the connector again. It was still fine. After that, it seems things got worse so I didn't mess with it anymore.

It's not the first report of someone having these symptoms after replacing the bulb. It's just funny to me that somehow a new bulb appears to be more stressing.

It was bound to fail sooner or later. The wavy lines on component input were getting worse, so I figured things were deteriorating.
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post #5923 of 7433
11/11/08 at 10:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

Makes me scared to change the bulb. I've now had the new bulb for over a year and haven't replaced it because of all the horror stories. I'm still using the original bulb because it seems to work fine.

I don't blame you one bit. I held off on even getting the replacement bulb because the original was still working fine. But when I called to inquire if I was eligible since the tv was still working fine, she said they'd have someone ship one to me. Once I got the new one, I figured I better make sure it's good (especially after the first one I received was actually severely cracked).
Then I figured I'd just keep the original as an emergency backup.

If it weren't a minor pain in the arse to replace the re-install in an existing housing, I might be tempted to put the old one back and see what it does. But I know it's good, so I'll wait to see what the repair people actually try to do to fix the tv.

Any idea how many hours you have on your bulb? My tv alerted my when I passed the 5000 hour mark. I was tiring of seeing the orange indicator all the time.
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post #5924 of 7433
11/11/08 at 11:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by garciab View Post

I don't blame you one bit. I held off on even getting the replacement bulb because the original was still working fine. But when I called to inquire if I was eligible since the tv was still working fine, she said they'd have someone ship one to me. Once I got the new one, I figured I better make sure it's good (especially after the first one I received was actually severely cracked).
Then I figured I'd just keep the original as an emergency backup.

If it weren't a minor pain in the arse to replace the re-install in an existing housing, I might be tempted to put the old one back and see what it does. But I know it's good, so I'll wait to see what the repair people actually try to do to fix the tv.

Any idea how many hours you have on your bulb? My tv alerted my when I passed the 5000 hour mark. I was tiring of seeing the orange indicator all the time.

I don't know for sure because the bulb usage got reset when they changed out my DM board.
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post #5925 of 7433
11/11/08 at 5:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdwk View Post

Just thought I would share the flickering pixel problem I have. You can see them all pretty well using displaymate. Streaks of flickering white pixels. No way in hell this is a software problem, but the local tech thinks I need to upgrade. I should be getting a 256MB CF card tomorrow to try it out. But I am sure I'll be calling the shop back and telling him the noise is still there. Other than this, the set is working beautifully since all my boards were replaced.


That looks like the problem I have. Capacitor problem?
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post #5926 of 7433
11/12/08 at 7:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leeisfishing View Post

What is your best technique for removing these caps? A soldering iron on both sides or heating and prying one side at a time? Thanks again......

I just made the investment in one of these:

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-8230

They offer serveral sizes of extra 'tips' as well. With source code '810D18', it's only $20. I figure I'll use it sooner or later

bg
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post #5927 of 7433
11/12/08 at 12:11pm
Cool, good find. Thanks....... I just ordered it and 3 tips.
I have a pretty accurate count and part number for all the SMD caps on the format and DM boards. I will post it when I get home. I found them all at Mouser.
Actually.... Here is my Mouser order. In most cases I ordered double of what is on the format and DM boards. (I have 3 52725 tv's and 1 62825)

Part # 661-ELXY160ELL681MJ2 are 680uF radial caps (The suggested replacement for the 1000uF caps on the DM and Format)
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post #5928 of 7433
11/12/08 at 5:27pm
Last night while watching tv the screen swithced to blue screen. I could still access the on screen menus but no signal from the cable. Switched to xbox which is coming through a different input and same issue, just blue screen.

I tried to turn the tv on a few times today and same issue. However tonight I just get a solid red light and no screen at all.

My lamp was last changed a few months ago and that was the last time anything had been done to my set. I doubt it's the lamp since my past lamps lasted over a year each.

I held device & menu and got 3 blinks then 4 blinks, I assume that means error 34?

I'm not technical enough to troubleshoot & repair this myself. If I hire someone to fix it I'm sure it will cost hundreds. I bought it in 2004 and my 4 year extended warranty ran out 3 months ago.

I'm torn, spend a bunch of money to get this fixed or just go invest in a new set and donate the old tv? Or does anyone have another good idea that I'm missing.

Thanks in advance for the advice.
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post #5929 of 7433
11/12/08 at 7:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post

"The Warranty Group" are apparently looking at comparable TVs instead of rebuilding my chassis. I don't quite know what my best course of action would be at this stage. They are looking at "comparable models" at this point. If/when I get model nos. I'll post them -- but until then, has anyone had a similar experience lately with this particular company (I'm kinda looking out for what to expect -- lowballing etc.). Any advice appreciated, thanks.

SD

SD_GR: I've also got coverage through The Warranty Group. Did you buy the TV/Warranty from Tweeter? My TV has been worked on twice, and after the chassis was replaced last week, the TV is still having issues. I'm now trying to reach The Warranty Group for follow up service. I've called after work twice now (but during their business hours), but only get a voicemail. Anyway, I'll be interested in hearing about your experience with The Warranty Group. Good luck.
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post #5930 of 7433
11/12/08 at 11:54pm
Regarding "The Warranty Group"

I've always had no problem getting through to them but I've always called during the morning.

They've stated emphatically that they will not repair my set; this to me at least implies that they have been less than thrilled with their part (costs, repeat costs, other expenses etc.) of the "remove chassis, send to Mitsu, wait, replace chassis" exercise.

They offered another Mitsu DLP set, a 60" model from the current lineup. I have to confess, I love the picture on Mitsu DLPs but I am reluctant to get another of their sets, particularly since the existing extended warranty becomes void once either a new set is accepted or a check is accepted.

I'm considering moving on to another technology, and am trying to decide what -- and from whom. Oh -- and no, I didn't purchase via Tweeter (RIP). I went with a local smaller store here in California.
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post #5931 of 7433
11/13/08 at 7:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradlott View Post

I'm torn, spend a bunch of money to get this fixed or just go invest in a new set and donate the old tv? Or does anyone have another good idea that I'm missing.

I don't think it's worth it to pay someone to fix it. Invest your money in a new set. I think new 60" DLP's run about $1500 and flat panels are getting pretty cheap too. Fixing your xx525 will probably cost $500-$1000 and odds are you'll have another problem crop up before too long.

My guess is that it'll only be the hobbyists among us that keep these things alive. I just ordered the SMT soldering iron and a bunch of caps from mouser (thanks garciab and lee) and am looking forward to working on the set for the fun of it. I plan to replace the caps in clusters and will see if I can narrow down the source of my purple bar issue.

Hell, maybe I'll even buy an oscilloscope off of craigslist/ebay if I can find a cheap used one.
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post #5932 of 7433
11/13/08 at 8:38am
Nice, please keep us posted on your repairs. The tv techs will come out today to see what's wrong with my tv. As if they don't know by now. I don't know what's involved in getting a new chassis, but if it's just replacing the three main boards, I'll insist that they leave the set and come back with three replacement boards. If they refuse, I think I'll refuse service and do the repairs myself (yea, and probably void my extended warranty). It doesn't sound like a replacement chassis guarantees a set that works as well as Tbully's results, so I'll take that route.

Would you believe that a 60" Mits DLP sells for $1k? And a 65" for $1.1k? Those sure are tempting, but I don't know how I'd dispose of the 62" monster. And I like to tinker too.
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post #5933 of 7433
11/13/08 at 8:51am
Does anyone know of a good way to post a file bigger than 500kb to this forum? My writeup is 1.7mb. I have several PMs asking for emails but I don't have enough time in the day to answer all of them. :-)
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post #5934 of 7433
11/13/08 at 9:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbully View Post

Does anyone know of a good way to post a file bigger than 500kb to this forum? My writeup is 1.7mb. I have several PMs asking for emails but I don't have enough time in the day to answer all of them. :-)

If you e-mail it to me I can post it. I found http://www.box.net and signed up a free account. Or you can sign up. It only takes a couple minutes.

Space=1Gig
File Size=25meg.
Bandwidth=10Gig/mo
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post #5935 of 7433
11/13/08 at 9:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by garciab View Post

Would you believe that a 60" Mits DLP sells for $1k? And a 65" for $1.1k? Those sure are tempting, but I don't know how I'd dispose of the 62" monster. And I like to tinker too.

Delar said he broke his into many smaller pieces and threw it out in the trash. I wonder how much work that was and what tools he used.
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post #5936 of 7433
11/13/08 at 10:14am
These are my experiences noted as best as I can. If you share, please share with credit.

I hope everyone has powerpoint. I realized after I was complete that I possibly made a bad assumption.

Good luck and tread lightly with the SMT stuff......


http://www.box.net/shared/c68201zfp2
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post #5937 of 7433
11/13/08 at 10:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbully View Post

These are my experiences noted as best as I can. If you share, please share with credit.

I hope everyone has powerpoint. I realized after I was complete that I possibly made a bad assumption.

Good luck and tread lightly with the SMT stuff......


http://www.box.net/shared/c68201zfp2


Thanks for all your work. It is much appreciated......

If people don't have powerpoint they can download a free powerpoint viewer here.
http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/d...displaylang=en
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post #5938 of 7433
11/13/08 at 2:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbully View Post

These are my experiences noted as best as I can. If you share, please share with credit.

I hope everyone has powerpoint. I realized after I was complete that I possibly made a bad assumption.

Good luck and tread lightly with the SMT stuff......


http://www.box.net/shared/c68201zfp2

Don't have Powerpoint. Tried Powerpoint viewer. No joy.

I have OpenOffice.

Try this link for Power Point Viewer 2007 which works with the file.
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post #5939 of 7433
11/13/08 at 2:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcarlton View Post

Don't have Powerpoint. Tried Powerpoint viewer. No joy.

I have OpenOffice.

Try this link for Power Point Viewer 2007 which works with the file.

Good to hear. Sorry. I was thinking of the best way to make this portable without just posting pictures and text to a message board. It sounds like that would have been better.
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post #5940 of 7433
11/13/08 at 3:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post

Regarding "The Warranty Group"


They offered another Mitsu DLP set, a 60" model from the current lineup. I have to confess, I love the picture on Mitsu DLPs but I am reluctant to get another of their sets, particularly since the existing extended warranty becomes void once either a new set is accepted or a check is accepted.

What size was your 725/525? Just curious because I haven't heard back from Mits or Frys about my replacement. I had the 62525 and would hope they at least offer me the 65".

If they offer me another Mits I am thinking it will probably be the 65736....but I will push for the 65835 Diamond Series.

Now if I don't have to stick with a Mits.....I haven't a clue to what I am going to get. Suggestions?
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