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Mitsubishi WD XX725 owners thread - Page 226

post #6751 of 7433
10/5/09 at 2:39pm
I just got a blue screen with a splotch of flashing light yellow in the middle. I have gotten the flashing green light a few times and have done a reset, hard and soft. Nothing makes it come back now.
I haven't seen this thing happen before so I thought I'd post.
The TV also says that there is no signal coming from the antenna and when I switch to satellite, same thing.
Anybody have this happen to you? I would like to have this thing last until spring, if I could.
Any responses would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks:

Lyle
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post #6752 of 7433
10/6/09 at 8:21am
I just got Mits to graciously approve my parts on a chassis rebuild - of course got stuck with the labor..

They originally only offered a 9 month warranty! I got them to extend it to a year.

I am perplexed because I explained to them that I have bought numerous Mits TV's in the past and purchased my WD 62725 on their special finance deal (2 or 3 years no interest....)

I have a WD 52525 that has had a replaced LE and thermistor and now it appears it needs a chassis rebuild as well (won't turn on at all). Problem is that one was given to me for free and I don't have the original purchase receipt... My local repair guy did the original work...

And I sold a bunch of TVs for them when I worked at a mom and pop retail store...

And I have about 10k in newer TVs that I purchased in Dec 2007 that I still have on the 0% no interest financing....

Wow - those who got the replacement TV offer must have mad negotiation skills.

The sad part is I am the Internet Sales Director for a chain of 7 Dealerships!!
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post #6753 of 7433
10/6/09 at 9:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by parlyle View Post

I just got a blue screen with a splotch of flashing light yellow in the middle. I have gotten the flashing green light a few times and have done a reset, hard and soft. Nothing makes it come back now.
I haven't seen this thing happen before so I thought I'd post.
The TV also says that there is no signal coming from the antenna and when I switch to satellite, same thing.
Anybody have this happen to you? I would like to have this thing last until spring, if I could.
Any responses would be greatly appreciated.

with the many varied capacitor problems it causes many different issues.

If you want to get it repaired then do as many of us have had to do and get it diagnosed by an authorized mits service center/tech as needing an electrical chassis replacement and then contact mits so they pay for the parts and you pay for the labor which is ~$200-300. Then get your set back repaired and mits also gives you a one year warranty.

1-800-332-2119 ext 8 gets you to the Mits California headquarters, they have deal with this problem alot with the WD 52/62x25 sets.
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post #6754 of 7433
10/7/09 at 1:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dssturbo1 View Post

with the many varied capacitor problems it causes many different issues.

If you want to get it repaired then do as many of us have had to do and get it diagnosed by an authorized mits service center/tech as needing an electrical chassis replacement and then contact mits so they pay for the parts and you pay for the labor which is ~$200-300. Then get your set back repaired and mits also gives you a one year warranty.

1-800-332-2119 ext 8 gets you to the Mits California headquarters, they have deal with this problem alot with the WD 52/62x25 sets.

I called Mits and they gave me a service # to call. Have an appointment on the 15th of October. They have been very busy, to say the least. The tech has to come from Eau Claire, (about 1 hr drive), so have to pay mileage. If they have to have Mits send parts to fix the set, how do I negotiate Mitsubishi to pay for them?
I do have another number the csr gave me, which is a little closer. I am going to call them today after work.
I really am anxious to find out what this blue screen with the flashing light blue/yellow in the middle is.
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post #6755 of 7433
10/7/09 at 2:40pm
I'm a newbie here who has been very happy with my 5 year old Mits 52725 until last week when Thin Vertical Lines evenly spaced across the screen showed up. They are very bright and impossible to ignore. They show up after about 10 minutes. They are there on any source, even on top of the TV Menu, and even for 5 seconds on a blank screen after I power off. They are always in the same places, about one inch apart. I reset it (I think), and also unplugged it, both to no avail.

This thread is so long, and I haven't found an answer yet in my browsing. But all the problems in this thread make me wonder if I shouldn't just chuck it and get something new.

Attached is a picture of it.

Please, please advise me on what it might be, if I should repair it, how I should go about it, if I can do any of it myself, where I should get the parts, or anything else. I'm desperate and would really appreciate any help.
LL
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post #6756 of 7433
10/7/09 at 7:04pm
Called today 2nd number from Mits csr. Will look at in when I bring it in. Has to go to MInneapolis, but they were more than happy to do the paper work that has to go to Mitsubishi. All I had to do was get a case number from Mits and fax the purchase order to them. They are very aware of the problems and have done this repair many times. Taking it to the facility tomorrow. Only 1 hr drive for me and I don't have to wait till the 15th, yay!
They also said that Mits usually pays for the parts after warrantee for this job. Oh! my 5 year warrantee ran out 9/24/09---------What luck They seem to know when to fry themselves, don't ya think?

To the previous poster. Welcome to the family!
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post #6757 of 7433
10/7/09 at 11:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by parlyle View Post

Called today 2nd number from Mits csr. Will look at in when I bring it in. Has to go to MInneapolis, but they were more than happy to do the paper work that has to go to Mitsubishi. All I had to do was get a case number from Mits and fax the purchase order to them. They are very aware of the problems and have done this repair many times. Taking it to the facility tomorrow. Only 1 hr drive for me and I don't have to wait till the 15th, yay!
They also said that Mits usually pays for the parts after warrantee for this job. Oh! my 5 year warrantee ran out 9/24/09---------What luck They seem to know when to fry themselves, don't ya think?

To the previous poster. Welcome to the family!

the normal routine is that you get the local mits service center to diagnose it as needing an electrical chassis. Then you fax the paperwork to mits and they look it over and then contact you back in a day or less telling you they will pay for the rebuilt chassis and you pay the labor. Then when thats cleared up mits contacts the service center that you used and authorizes the repair.

The service center sends your chassis off to get rebuilt by the national mits service/repair center in Ga. and waits for it to be returned. Installs it in your set and returns it to you fixed. Then mits will send you a letter stating they will cover it for the one year warranty. Or if the service center was doing in home repair they should take out the chassis and return when they have it back rebuilt and reinstall it, and you would need to get all the labor + travel cost worked out with them.

my local mits service center charged me 4 service "book" hours, 4 x $62.50/Hr= $250 + tax to do the chassis pull/replacement plus the $128 to pick it up/diagnose it/return it to me. The service manager did knock off $$33 of that $128 charge due to long delays in getting my set fixed.
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post #6758 of 7433
10/8/09 at 1:55am
What would the normal time frame be? I have some important business in March 2010 and would like to have this done by then, if possible.
Thanks for the information. I think I'm saving a little money bringing the set in myself. It's a drive, but we like to do "escapes to Minnesota" now and then. Very pretty state.
It sure is different having a 19" flat panel in place where the 52" was.
Later:

Lyle
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post #6759 of 7433
10/9/09 at 1:34pm
Hi Everyone - I just recently posted this in another thread but wanted to see if there was anyone else out here that coud help.

Well we DID get the tv to finally turn on and it was working great last night (we have the WD-52525), this is while the "guts" were still hanging out the back. We kept the tv plugged in while we put everything back in place and screwed on. Once that was complete we began watching tv and everything started to turn green. We could still see the picture but it had a really green tint to it. We tried adjusting the color settings but nothing worked - is this another capacitor issue? I'm really hoping we can fix it ourselves as we cannot spend another $200.00+ to repair this tv. Any input would be appreciated. Thank you!
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post #6760 of 7433
10/9/09 at 2:22pm
From your other posts, you certainly do show symptoms of the dreaded SMT cap problems. If you are prepared to invest about $60 in caps, and try to replace them yourself, it's worth a shot. But it will cost you over $200 to have someone else do it. There are many tips in this thread that should help. Good luck.
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post #6761 of 7433
10/9/09 at 3:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by garciab View Post

From your other posts, you certainly do show symptoms of the dreaded SMT cap problems. If you are prepared to invest about $60 in caps, and try to replace them yourself, it's worth a shot. But it will cost you over $200 to have someone else do it. There are many tips in this thread that should help. Good luck.

Which ones are the SMT Caps?
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post #6762 of 7433
10/10/09 at 2:54pm
IronHorse, thanks for the write up, made it so I could clean the first mirror during half-time and actually made the game worth watching. Great TV for free!
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post #6763 of 7433
10/11/09 at 3:19pm
Can someone please tell me what the SMT caps are? We are trying to solve the problem of the green tint/glow that are screen has now taken to. Has anyone else had this problem after replacing caps? We've replaced about 10 or so caps so far.

Please help! Thanks
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post #6764 of 7433
10/11/09 at 3:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by TjandAmber View Post

Can someone please tell me what the SMT caps are? We are trying to solve the problem of the green tint/glow that are screen has now taken to. Has anyone else had this problem after replacing caps? We've replaced about 10 or so caps so far.

Please help! Thanks

My understanding is that SMT caps are surface mount capacitors. They are different than the "can" type of capacitors with the leads that go through holes in the circuit board. They have solder pads that attach to pads on the circuit board, and are more difficult to solder (it is easy to rip the trace off the circuit board - especially when trying to remove the old cap).
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post #6765 of 7433
10/11/09 at 4:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiff72 View Post

My understanding is that SMT caps are surface mount capacitors. They are different than the "can" type of capacitors with the leads that go through holes in the circuit board. They have solder pads that attach to pads on the circuit board, and are more difficult to solder (it is easy to rip the trace off the circuit board - especially when trying to remove the old cap).

Do you happen to have a picture of them or somewhere I could look them up? Which board on they on?
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post #6766 of 7433
10/12/09 at 6:38am
Search this thread for posts by Tbully. He has a powerpoint presentation containing everything you need to know.
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post #6767 of 7433
10/12/09 at 3:26pm
SO I bought the new lamp and the tv works fine now, It kinda had a fuzzy picture, and i can see that the mirror is kinda dirty. How do I clean the mirror, and how do i change the tv setting from 480i to a higher setting. I just have it plugged into the wall, with no hd converter. Or should i Just call cox and get the box with hd, and the tech will set everything up?
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post #6768 of 7433
10/12/09 at 3:34pm
Just got my authorization from Mitsubishi that they will pay for the repair of the chassis for my 52725. Brought it to Minneapolis last Thursday.
It was easy to do.
The Mits CSR, ( from the Phillipines, to boot ) said that they were going to deal with this repair like it was still under warrantee. I bought it in 2004 and the 5 year deal was up on 22 September. Went out shortly after that.
So, if anybody needs service, Mits is really handing out a fairly good deal. Only they will pay for parts only, no service. I tried, they said that the repair had already gone through "arbritration" and that is all they will pay for.
Good Luck to all:

Lyle
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post #6769 of 7433
10/12/09 at 8:17pm
Hello,

From a picture quality perspective (brightness, colors, contrast, black level), what are the main differences between the WD-62525 (that I have from 2004) to the newer diamond mitsubishi dlp sets?

I am thinking about buying. I currently need a cleaning of the inside of my 62525, but found out tonight it is not covered under my warranty. Don't want to do this myself and mess it up, so I'm thinking about buying a new one. Do the new sets get as dusty inside as the old one?

Thanks,
Jason
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post #6770 of 7433
10/12/09 at 10:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by capsmvp View Post

Hello,

From a picture quality perspective (brightness, colors, contrast, black level), what are the main differences between the WD-62525 (that I have from 2004) to the newer diamond mitsubishi dlp sets?

I am thinking about buying. I currently need a cleaning of the inside of my 62525, but found out tonight it is not covered under my warranty. Don't want to do this myself and mess it up, so I'm thinking about buying a new one. Do the new sets get as dusty inside as the old one?

Thanks,
Jason

The difference in picture is night and day between the old and new sets. The black levels are greatly improved (almost on par with plasma). The colors are more accurate when calibrated as well.

The newer models do not have as much of an issue with dust due to the fact that Mits changed the mirror layout after this model year. The problem with this model building up so much dust is the double mirror design. Since the small mirror lays on its back to reflect up to the larger mirror, it collects dust because dust settles on it so easily.

However, it is not too difficult to clean the mirror. You just have to take out all of the screws holding the screen in place, unplug the front panel control connector and lift the screen off. I've cleaned mine many times. Once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy. The only place there are "hidden" screws is on the front behind the speaker cover. You have to remove the piece of the cabinet directly below the front buttons on the TV. Behind that are two screws that hold the screen in place that aren't visible unless you remove that cover. Also, the connector that connects the front buttons to the unit itself is behind that as well.

If you google, there are places that'll give you detailed instructions along with pictures. You can also find the service manual online which also details the procedure.
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post #6771 of 7433
10/12/09 at 11:05pm
Thank you so much for such an informative answer. Besides black levels being better and the colors, too, is the brightness better? It probably is since it doesn't get as dirty as my current set.



Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

The difference in picture is night and day between the old and new sets. The black levels are greatly improved (almost on par with plasma). The colors are more accurate when calibrated as well.

The newer models do not have as much of an issue with dust due to the fact that Mits changed the mirror layout after this model year. The problem with this model building up so much dust is the double mirror design. Since the small mirror lays on its back to reflect up to the larger mirror, it collects dust because dust settles on it so easily.

However, it is not too difficult to clean the mirror. You just have to take out all of the screws holding the screen in place, unplug the front panel control connector and lift the screen off. I've cleaned mine many times. Once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy. The only place there are "hidden" screws is on the front behind the speaker cover. You have to remove the piece of the cabinet directly below the front buttons on the TV. Behind that are two screws that hold the screen in place that aren't visible unless you remove that cover. Also, the connector that connects the front buttons to the unit itself is behind that as well.

If you google, there are places that'll give you detailed instructions along with pictures. You can also find the service manual online which also details the procedure.
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post #6772 of 7433
10/13/09 at 6:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

...

If you google, there are places that'll give you detailed instructions along with pictures. You can also find the service manual online which also details the procedure.

There are detailed instructions right in this thread, just do a search here. I got the instructions from someone that posted on this thread and they were great. I've cleaned the mirrors twice now and the second time, I did it myself. I have the 62525 so it's small enough to do yourself. You may need help if you have a larger screen.
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post #6773 of 7433
10/13/09 at 6:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

I have the 62525 so it's small enough to do yourself. You may need help if you have a larger screen.

Did you mean that you have the 52525? The 62525 is the bigger screen version (62") vs. the 52"...
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post #6774 of 7433
10/13/09 at 6:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiff72 View Post

Did you mean that you have the 52525? The 62525 is the bigger screen version (62") vs. the 52"...

No, I have the 62 inch screen as opposed to a 72 inch screen but it is small enough for me to remove myself.
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post #6775 of 7433
10/13/09 at 6:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

No, I have the 62 inch screen as opposed to a 72 inch screen but it is small enough for me to remove myself.

Gotcha...I thought the 72" models were outside of this model series.

I have removed my 62" myself a few times myself. Just make sure that you don't set the screen on edge on the bottom.

And remember to set it on its side, leaning up against a wall so the bottom bezel around the button doesn't get damaged!
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post #6776 of 7433
10/13/09 at 3:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by garciab View Post

Search this thread for posts by Tbully. He has a powerpoint presentation containing everything you need to know.

I've tried to search Tbully for the powerpoint but came up empty handed. Many hours spent on this thread!! Its sooooo long....

The good news is, we have gotten the Tv to work. We pulled it apart again to make sure all connections were good, replaced a few more caps, and saw we had one in backwards. Not sure if that was the fix or it was just being tempermental. Anyways, was able to watch it for the past couple days and we're hoping it stays that way. The color is great, the screen is so big compared to our dinky 32" we had before.

Thanks for the help! I'll be back if it happens again
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post #6777 of 7433
10/13/09 at 5:39pm
Alright cool, Thanks guys.
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post #6778 of 7433
10/14/09 at 1:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by straightedge12 View Post

SO I bought the new lamp and the tv works fine now, It kinda had a fuzzy picture, and i can see that the mirror is kinda dirty. How do I clean the mirror, and how do i change the tv setting from 480i to a higher setting. I just have it plugged into the wall, with no hd converter. Or should i Just call cox and get the box with hd, and the tech will set everything up?

Check page 95 out. Spiff72 did a nice write up with some post of pics on the dirty mirror and how to clean it.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...444566&page=95

And on page 141 Ironhorse also had some pics and how to clean the internal mirror that can get so filthy.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...44566&page=141

If you want to see why everyone needs to check and clean their WD 52/62x25 mirrors regularly then check out a dirty one on page 148 post 4440 that i posted.....
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...44566&page=148

to change the aspect ratio/video mode look for the Format button it should be up about 3 rows from the bottom of the remote.
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post #6779 of 7433
10/14/09 at 1:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TjandAmber View Post

I've tried to search Tbully for the powerpoint but came up empty handed. Many hours spent on this thread!! Its sooooo long....

The good news is, we have gotten the Tv to work. We pulled it apart again to make sure all connections were good, replaced a few more caps, and saw we had one in backwards. Not sure if that was the fix or it was just being tempermental. Anyways, was able to watch it for the past couple days and we're hoping it stays that way. The color is great, the screen is so big compared to our dinky 32" we had before.

Thanks for the help! I'll be back if it happens again

Tbully's write up post and link is on page 198 post # 5936

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...=#post15064509


NOTE:.......Tbully just posted one page back in post 6730 that his set went down again and even he didn't feel like going in and doing another 75-100 caps replacement job. he let a local shop send his electrical chassis in for a complete rebuild through mits. His labor charge from the shop was $285. he said they did good work and had a pretty quick turnaround on it.
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post #6780 of 7433
10/14/09 at 12:43pm
Well I got my rebuilt chassis put in today. So far so good. Guess we'll see how long it lasts.
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