Mitsubishi WD XX725 owners thread - Page 232

As a long time lurker on this thread it is now time to move on. My wd-62825 was starting to show some of the capacitor issues so I called Mits service who gave me the usual offer to pick up the cost of the parts and I would pay for labor. To make a long story short after two dm modules and a light engine failed to fix the issue Mits offered me a wd-65837 as a replacement at no cost. Needless to say I took there offer and received the new tv yesterday. I am now a very happy camper. I have to give Mits some props for doing this for a tv that was long out of warranty. Thanks to everyone for all the great advice in this thread.

No. Mits requires you go through a Mits Authorized Service Center ASC to get the electrical chassis rebuild/repair done.

You pay the labor charges of your local Mits ASC diagnosing/pulling/replacing the electrical chassis.

My estimate was over $800 but the final bill for my WD-62525 repair listed the electrical chassis rebuild cost as No Charge so I was only charged for the 4 "book rate" hours to do the labor plus tax.

you get your WD-52/62x25 diagnosed with the capacitor /electrical chassis problems by the local Mits ASC.
You contact Mits at 1-800-332-2119 Ext #8, that should get you a rep in the Mits California headquarters.
Mits gets your info and ask you to fax in the diagnosis and your sales/purchase receipt.
Mits usually gets back to you within 1 day and tell you they will cover the parts/rebuild cost and you cover the labor charges.
If you agree Mits contacts the ASC and the repair process continues.........
If timing goes well it takes ~3 weeks and you get your set back repaired.
Mits will send you a letter stating they give you a one year warranty on your set.

I seem to have fixed the BGLOD that i was having but now the green light turns on, stays on, but i get no picture or sound at all. I checked the 12v on the power board when the TV is "on" and it is totally dead. also, there is NO voltage running to the lamp ballast what so ever. its like its not getting the enable or anything to turn on the bulb.

this is after getting the tv to work from completely dead...getting wavy ass pink lines.....changing some smt caps from the PowerPoint file from tbully....after that the tv would try to turn on and the lamp indicator would pop on after like 2 seconds. its a brand new bulb. So i changed some more caps, and i am afraid i screwed something horribly. now the TV acts like its going to work, but you never get to hear the satisfying click that turns on the lamp and all that stuff. Also there is no voltage to the lamp or ballast thing..

Help is appreciated. Ive actually spent hours searching this thread for hours and cant find anything similar.

Well, I got my 52725 back from the repair shop 2 weeks ago after it had been sent to Mitsu in NJ for the 2nd time since Sept for a chassis rebuild and guess what.....
2 days ago I went downstairs to where the TV is now and there it was. The blinking light of death. I rebooted and it came back on. This AM I went down and there it was again. Came home from work and did a power cycle reboot and the TV came on. Went out and walked the dog for about 15 min. Came back in and it was off with the blinking light again. This time rebooting didn't work.
Called Mitsu and they will have the repair shop pick it up again and do a diagnostic.

Well in the worst case, I get it out of my house for free and start looking for something to replace it.

It had bee relegated to the "family room" since we got a nice Samsung 52 inch lcd last spring

Obvious answer but...check your work.

Make sure your SMTs weren't put in backwards. It's easy to do on accident. If you're lucky you may just have to replace the "reversed" caps. Also, as you know, there are a lot of connectors (and a few ribbon cables), make sure they are all connected firmly and to the right location.

You can also check the PWB for blown surface mount fuses. (I don't recall the exact locations)

Good luck. I feel your pain...been there.

okay. the ribbon's may be my problem. when i was fixing a board my big ass knelt down and on the way down my ass cought the DM board and FMT board that were sitting behind me and down they went. upon inspection, 4 caps had broken off (through hole caps). replaced those and well same old green light, no flashing. TV just gets no voltage to the lamp.

well the real question of this post is, What is the main purpose of the gold ribbon that is all by itself going between the 2 top boards. When the boards fell it looks like i could have torn one of the lil tiny ass connections on it but could that be preventing the ballast from getting any voltage at all. Thanks again Tbully. hopefully i get this tv done because my English Setter jsut gave birth to 8 more setters about 5 weeks ago and i need my dining room back for them to run around in as to the 6x8x3' box i built for em is way over grown.

I have some experience in repairing failed self repairs and what I see is torn or damaged ribbon cables or wrongly installed caps blowing SMD fuses in the power supply. Each board has a sub power supply and SMD fuses. Sometimes the fuses blow and the work is good. You said you had a few caps ripped off from the board? That cant be good. Good luck, John

i have a 52725 on the second lamp and no issues thus far and would like to know if it's even worth getting it fixed if something happens to it. I cleaned the mirror and all the dust and made the picture better but i figured with no issues i didn't renew my main warranty. i didn't renew it last year or the year before and still have my warranty thing thru Frys up til August this year.

I've tried to search and read through almost 7,000 posts but feel I need to ask anyway.

I think I finally have the BGLOD. In the morning, the set has a rapid blinking green light. Unplugging and re-plugging works. This occurred once, then a second time, but seems to be happening more frequently now (apprx. Once per week). My 62725 was purchased 5.5 years ago w/ a 5 year extended warranty. I have no other problems (wavy lines, spots, etc.) at this time and have never done anything to the set other than replacing the lamp (on my 3rd now), and cleaning.

My questions:
1) Is the underlying BGLOD problem related to the bad caps problem?
2) Will the Switch Hack alone actually fix the BGLOD?
3) Any suggestions for a replacement in the 65 range? I really don't think I want to go down the board fix route.

TomTx,

Yes, the BGLOD is due to bad caps, which means that the Switch Hack will only delay the inevitable. The bad caps cause the internal boards from communicating, and so the light blinks as the chassis tries to boot.

lol caps ripped off the board= very bad. but no. lol one of the 1000uf 16v caps in the lil groups of 4 caps on that board....one of its legs broke, so i soldered in a brand new one.

How did you do on the repair?

The blinking green light of death is now the blinking for 30 seconds, turns off, and turns solid when power is pushed. New problem i have created when i dropped the board and maybe ripped the ribbon (like one 1 on it) is that it pretends its gunna work perfectly great but the ballast never turns on and i have no voltage to the lamp ballast

Did you check to see if the ribbon cable is bad? Did you check any SMD fuses? They are small white blocks. Here is a website to show what they look like. My bet is one has failed.
http://ph.farnell.com/littelfuse/045...-e1a0-00001072

no i have not checked any smd fuses. is there a seperate one for each voltage check point on the power board? i ask because almost all the points give the correct voltage except one of the 12v (i think , havnt messed with it for a few days so i can be wrong) or 13.3v is totally dead. nothing at all. How exactly do i check if they are blown or not.

and i will try to test the ribbon. I think i know how to...maybe.

How exactly do i check the smd fuses. Set the meter to continuity and just one on each side. or does the thing backtrack itself through the board? IE. do i need to remove them from the board to check them. Also, what are the green resistor looking things near the PS plug (i think its ps) If you can check those while on the board then im positive one is bad.

I have a mitsubishi wd 60735. When I go in to change color, brightness, contrast, and the rest it doesn't seem to save the settings. When I turn the tv off and back on again the setting go back to default which really sucks because I have to keep changing the setting back to my preference. Any help any one please??????

I have the 52825 and have the BGLOD and replaced the caps on the dm and power board,and still didnt fix it..On the test points on the power board im not getting a reading on TP5v,TP3.3v,TP12v,and TP10v,all the others are reading fine..Does anyone know what might be the culprit? Thanks so much and if someone can help me out id be more than happy to send a few bucks to ya..Thanks again!!

The culprit is a couple of hundred other bad caps in most cases. Anyone who bothers trying to fix these sets is just going to end up getting back into it repeatedly. Just by a rebuild chassis from Mits for a couple hundred bucks and let them deal with rebuilding them.

Don't count on it working. My chasis has been sent backtwice since the end of Sept. Got it back 3 weeks ago and by last Friday it flashing again. I'd reboot it by unplugging it. It would come back on, but within 15 minutes shut itself off again.

I thought that if it failed again during the warranty they would replace it witha new DLP?

Jack

Mitsubishi has a warranty on the rebuilt chassis. IIRC it is 6 months. We have had about 90% success with them. OTOH, every set that we changed caps in (some as many as several dozen) has come back with the same or other problems eventually. The point is that the problems with the caps are so pervasive that unless you are going to change hundreds, you will likely see other problems. The rebuild chassis from Mitsubishi is the highest probability solution for these sets, and the most cost effectve, if your time is worth more than minimum wage. Mitsubishi has also replaced sets for clients that have had repeated problems. I don't know if they still will, since some of these sets are over 5 years old, but one should always ask for accomodation from customer relations when one has extensive problems.

I've made multiple calls to Mitsu and keep getting the run around. My service center here in Rochester NY has also had problems. Mitsu keeps asking them to fax diagnostic reports. They have done so multiple times. My extended warranty was up last Sept, but since the problem started before it was, they have issued 1 recall already and apparently will do so again. At this point, I just want to get rid of the set. If Mitsu only want to replace it with a larger dlp I'll leave it in the box and see if I can sell it. A 52 inch is the largest that will fit where it is in the house.
Luckily, it is only a back up TV and sits in our downstairs family room. We replaced it in the living room with a Samsung lcd last spring.

Well, now I did it. 52725, manufactured in '04. Replaced the bulb about a year ago. Recently I've been getting some weird video noise (bands of static), so I decided to tear my baby apart and have a look. Other than being totally filthy inside, everything looked good. Believe it or not I couldn't find a single swollen cap, let alone any that were leaking. So I went about my business and reassembled everything. Demated all my connectors and cleaned all the contacts before reconnecting.

Finally got it all together, and now I have the BGLOD. Must have missed a connection in there somewhere, though I can't imagine how. Stranger things have happened.

Guess I get to tear it apart again.

**UPDATE**
Well, took it all apart. Only thing I found was that one of my ribbon cables wasn't completely seated. It also looked like I crimped it on one side (must've pulled on it when fighting to get everything back together). Reassembled, and there was the BGLOD again. Thought I was going to have to hunt down a new ribbon cable. Let it sit for a few hours, came home, and it was still blinking. A quick reset, and whaddaya know...everything seems to work again.

Still have a fairly poor picture with random video noise, so all my work was for naught. Now I just gotta figure out whats really wrong.

**UPDATE PART DEUX**
BGLOD is back. Turned off the TV to put everything back together. Had to remove the filter cover, which triggered that switch (had a flashing orange light then). Got it all back together and the damned green light is there mocking me.

**UPDATE TRES**
Cannot get this damned thing to fire up. Wondering if that damaged ribbon cable may have an intermittent short or something. I'd like to replace it, just to check. Unfortunately, I can't figure out what the part number is (let alone a place to order it).

Can anyone help? It's the white one at the middle bottom of the pcb.



**UPDATE**
After sitting all night with the BGLOD, another restart this morning and the set fired up. Been running strong for half an hour now. Fingers crossed.

Interesting support for that chassis. It might be a good read for the engineers at Mitsubishi.

Nice!

Just bought a 62725 made in jan 05. Just put an ad on craigslist looking for broken mitsubishi's and got about ten people calling me back so far. most of them are smoking crack with their prices but the 62725 sold it to me for 100 bucks, only problem was the light. Came with brand new in the package bulb and bulb holder, one broken bulb and bulb holder, and the brand new bulb in the tv with bulb holder. Did the quick fix with the switch and tv works perfectly now.

My question is....do yall think i should swap boards on my 52825 one by one starting with the pwb board. just to find out what board it is that i need to fix or...leave it alone

my projection tv lasted 10 years the screen started turning counter clockwise i bought the dlp the bulb went after 1 year no warenty the second bulb is still going after 2 years plus but i am not happy with the picture i see i need to clean the mirror im looking for how to do that now

About two weeks before super bowl sunday, we got the BGLOD when my 5 year old grandson went into the family room and started punching buttons on the TV while it was on. Apparently he tried to change channels but he hit the power button on and off and the set went berserk. We Mits owners all know that you can't power on and off unless you wait at least 15 minutes to be safe!!!

Called a local Mits authorized service guy and he came out, looked at fleashing LED and said its either the power supply or the DM board. He said he had two new power supplies due in soon from Mits and it would be $250 to swap. Also said if it was DM board the set had to go to his shop and then I guess he sends the chassis back to Mits where they rebuild it for $500. But you get a 90 day warranty... big deal. So he goes away.

A week later I notice the set isn't flashing so I power it on (it was still plugged in) and it works just fine. We watch the super bowl and everything seems normal. The tech calls back and tells me he has PS, and I tell him the set is working again. He says its just a matter of time, it will go again because it's a bad design or something like that.

This weekend, we have 14 people up for the holiday weekend and of course, a bunch of kids, and they come in and say the TV isn't working. I go inside and the LED is flashing again. I'm at my wits end now, because we google this and find this GLOD is a result of poor chassis design and hundreds of folks have had this problem. There are also dozens of suggested "fixes" that include secret on-off sequences, adding DPDT switches, and so on.

What do I do? Does Mitsubishi eat the cost of the parts needed to fix this set, and do they upgrade the capacitors so the problem doesn't repeat itself? Would I be better off trying to fix it with one of the suggested fixes, or maybe have John down in Haddam fix it? Its a 62725 and I paid a small fortune )over $4200) for it with a 4-year warranty (long over) in Nov 2004. Should I have the tech try his "new" power supply... a $250 crap shoot? What do I do?

I would rather not spend $2000 on a new set that will fit our TV stand/bookshelf arrangement. I'd need a 60" to 65" flat screen, and a decent one (120 Hz) will run $2500-$3000 and a 240Hz would run almost double!

UPDATE: Feb 16, 2010 - Walked over to the set tonight (its been blinking since Sunday as noted above. Decided to try the reset and hold down the power button for 2 minutes. Damn thing blinked for almost the whole 2 minutes then went out. Crossed my fingers and pressed power, and it's working again. Watched TV for a couple of hours, turned it off and no blinking LED. Now I know something is wrong, I just don't know how bad it is.