Mitsubishi WD XX725 owners thread - Page 234

You said if you unplug it and replug it you get the green blinking light and it will eventually go off. This is good and desired. I assume that it will stay off and not try to power on immediately by itself. It only has a problem when you try to power it on.

Are you using the remote to power on or the power button? It sounds like it tries to power on by it self when I read your problem description. If the TV tries to power on by itself make sure the power on button is not broken or permanently trying to power the TV on (depressed). If you are powering on with the remote try the power button on the TV.

It seems that the most frequent symptom is the BGLOD all the time. The set will not initialize or boot. If yours does that and it seems that does not, and it will not power on that is a different symptom. If you get a flashing light there are codes that can be read from the resulting blinking LEDs.

The front panel LEDs provide an indication of the sets operation, and the possible cause of a malfunction. There are three front panel LEDs, “Power”, “Status” and “Lamp”. Which LED is lit, the color, and whether it is blinking or
steady indicate the current status, or a possible malfunction.

This was posted by another member.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...7&d=1147791778

there is also an operational check...
Error Code Operational Check

Note: The TV must be in “Shut Down” and not manually switched Off, to perform the Error Code Operational Check. When the TV is switched Off, the code automatically resets to “12” No Error.

Press the front panel “DEVICE” and “MENU” buttons at the same time, and hold for 5 seconds to activate the Error Code Operational Check. The LED will then flash denoting a two digit Code.

Note: The front panel buttons must be used, NOT those on the Remote Control.

• The number of flashes indicates the value of the MSD (tens digit) of the Error Code.
• The flashing then pauses for approximately 1/2 second.
• The LED then flashes indicating the value of the LSD (ones digit) of the Error Code.
  Example: If the Error Code is “32”, the LED will flash three times, pause, and then flash two times.
• The Error Code is repeated a total of 5 times

Error codes..
Error Code Probable Cause
12 No error detected
22 Recovery from momentary Reset
32 Lamp Cover open
33 Air Filter Cover open
34 Lamp abnormality
35 Chassis Fan failure
36 Exhaust (Back Cover) or Lamp Ballast Fan failure
37 Engine (DMD or Lamp) Fan failure
38 Excess Lamp Temperature
39 Excess DMD Temperature
41 Short Detected
44 DVI Cable (between Chassis and Engine) disconnected


Jack

first of all, thank you for your fast and educational response.

unfortunately i cant get it to give a code.

i can turn the tv off at the wall outlet, let the fans go silent, then plug it back in. at this point the green light flashes for exactly one minute. then the blinking stops and at the exact same time i hear an undistinguishable audio with a slight pop sound from the speakers. this lasts for about 2 seconds and then the sound goes away and the lights blink 3 times and the tv shuts down again.

i can not get a code of any sort by pressing the two buttons for 5 seconds.

What exactly is the difference from "shut down" and off?

Once the tv stops blinking. about 20 seconds later i can get a code and that code is.... blink..........blink, blink... thats a 12 and that means nothings wrong...... well,,,,,,somethings wrong..lol

I have a 62725 that's been rather reliable (but not without minor annoyances). However, recently the PC input has been on the fritz. The picture is very shaky and fuzzy on that input. It has nothing to do with the computer or video cable because even if the computer is off, when I switch to PC input the yellow letters "PC" in the corner have the shakes.

Is this problem likely to remain isolated to the PC input or is the a sign of impending doom? If so I'd like to replace it before the problem spreads to the other inputs and the TV loses complete functionality.

Is there any easy way to fix this issue?

TIA

Mine actually just started doing that yesterday too on the PC input. My screen shakes and I have what looks like little white flecks of video noise showing up all over the screen, kind of like what happens if you change the tracking on an old beta tape. It goes away after about 5 minutes (after the TV warms up) but I'm pretty sure it's a sign of impending doom. Let me know if you figure out what board it is... I've had my TV serviced about 15 times, but it's not under warranty any more.

What LED blinks 3 times.. and what color is the LED?

I assume that a shutdown is a 'automated' power off from the firmware and a
power off is a user power off via the remote or power off button.

If you let it continue to cycle without pulling the plug will it stop after 15 min? If you leave it unplugged all night will it power up in the morning?

Jack

uscpsycho, The video noise is most likely a few capacitors starting to get weak.

Hey guys, I have a Mits wd-62725 and recently replaced the bulb. Before the bulb change I had a very nice picture and no issues. However now when I watch TV, I see lots of scan lines. They seem to float around the screen and go from horizontal to diagonal.

Does this sound like a bad capacitor issue? It just seems weird that this started happening after my bulb replacement. I wonder if I did not connect a cable well when reconnecting my components? They only thing that makes me lean away from that idea is that I see the scan lines on both cable and DVD sources.

Any input or ideas would be great.
Thanks,
Jeff

the green light under the timer blinks repeatedly for a minute. the only codes i could get were a blink... pause.... blink blink.... which is 12. which is a no fault code.

i cant get the tv to turn on or off manually. I power it on, it blinks repeatedly, then it sounds like it wants to come on( an unrecongnizable) audio crackle, then it just powers off again.


I think i may just need a tech to come out.

I want to be clear on what the best procedure is to eliminate the BGLOD. These are the two things I have done in the past, sometimes with success, other times not
1. Unplug, wait a couple of minutes, replug.
2. Hit and hold the reset button for a minute.
Should these steps somehow be done concurrently? Also, what is the "switch trick" referred to in earlier posts?

The best way to emiminate the BGLOD is to send the chassis to mitsubishi and get a rebuilt one. Everything else, short of replacing a couple of hundred caps is going to be a temporary solution, at best.

Is the chassis the same as the DM board? Mitsubishi changed out my DM board not too long after I bought the set because the HDMI output was producing a lot of static.

The DM board is one of the boards IN the chassis, there are a few other boards in there also.

I wonder if I need a new DM board. My PC input is shaky/staticy. All other inputs are OK.

I know Mitsubishi is repairing sets that are totally shot, will they repair mine if just one input is hosed? If not, anyone have an idea what a DM replacement would cost and if that would fix my problem?

Some one a few posts up suggested my problem is capacitors getting weak.

If you are the original owner they might do something - just ask them

Thanks to TBULLY for his BGLOD fix, I had a bad DM board which then enabled the set to be turned on via the switch trick, replacing the caps on the FMT board the tbully said fixed his BGLOD fixed mine also - now it works as supposed to. So thanks again - if he reads this thread any more

That is EXACTLY the first symptom I saw on mine, it got worse and worse and eventually I got the BGLOD, I think it took about 4 months. It was under extended warranty and they replaced the DM Module about 8 months ago. Now it's out of warranty and deader than a doornail - won't do anything, no blinking light when plugged in, no sound of fans running or trying to start - absolutely nothing.

It was working fine until Saturday when it was on for about 8 hours (not unusual). I turned it off and noticed about 40 minutes later that it was making a lot of noise, the power light was still blinking and it sounded like it was going through some kind of cycle. It was annoying so I pulled the power cord and the next day it was completely dead. I'm going to see if the warranty company or Mits will do anything to help me considering the number of problems I've had with it in just over 5 years but I'm not holding my breath. What a complete POS TV from a quality perspective, if I hadn't bought the extended warranty (which I never do) I would have pitched it to the curb years ago and bought something else.

I called both the warranty company and Mits and got pretty much nowhere so (after looking at pricing on a 65" Plasma for the backup plan) I tore it apart to see if I could get anywhere. There is definitely a problem on the power supply board as none of the Test Point Voltages are correct. Before I take the board out I am considering buying the service manual on-line but I don't know if they have the actual schematics for the board, if they don't it will be a waste of $$. If anyone here has any experience with the PS on this model or has the manual and can tell me if it includes schematics I'd appreciate any help I can get!

I've not contacted Mitsu (maybe I should have first). We had contacted a local repair guy and it was going to be $700 for him to fix it. Since BestBuy has new 60" ones for $1,200, I started in on taking my chances.

The back of it is now off and it's laying face down on the kitchen table. The problem is how to I get the "module" out?

Anyone have instructions for that? I have a service manual, but it doesn't cover much about it (unless I'm just missing it which is entirely possible).

Any help is much appreciated. I've learned a ton from reading these threads already.

I turned on my set today and all I got were wide green vertical bars on the left work to the right to a couple of wide black bars?


Any ideas?

HELP

Disregard. I found a picture that showed how it came apart. (I'd post the pic, but it won't let me post links.

Here's where it's located though: freewebs.com/januismer/RemovedChassis.jpg

The picture gave me enough confidence to just pull harder. It's out. One of the four capacitors is noticeably popped out. Hopefully I'm close to a fix. Thanks to everyone who has posted all of this great info.

Here is how I fixed by Blinking Green Light of Death (BGLOD) issue on my WD-62725. From what I gather this is pretty much the process for the majority of the WD models. I felt after reading through hundreds of pages of information a nice compiled post might help others in the future.

From reading all of the posts I decided the issue was probably related to bad caps on the DM board. For starters I removed the back of the TV. After scratching my head for a few moments I decided I had best find a service manual to figure out how to remove the chassis. I used this one:

V26 Chassis Manual:
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=6MKC3A3V
File Name: "V26 - Chassis Replacment.pdf"

There is another post that references a service manual that I did not use but may help:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post11287117

After some time I was able to remove the shiny chassis from the TV. Be careful disconnecting wires and label everything and anything if it is not labeled.
You may want to take some photos. I had to remove the air flow channels to get easy access to the wires. The hardest connector to remove was located on a card on the very far right on the back of the TV.

These are the soldering tools and solder I used from Radio Shack:
Radio Shack Parts
25 Watt Soldering Pencil: 64-2070
45 Watt Desoldering Iron: 64-2060
High-Tech Rosin Core Silver-Bearing Solder: 64-013

I tried a 15 watt soldering pencil to no avail. I spent way too much time of my life attempting to use solder braid and my 25 watt soldering pencil to desolder. Do not even hesitate and go buy the 45 watt desoldering iron. I removed the radial type capacitors in seconds. I thought I could get away with using the braid. Do not even try it, in my opinion.

Make sure and ground yourself by touching metal or using a grounded wrist strap available at Radio Shack. After cracking open the shiny box I visually inspected each card. I had some bulged capacitors on the FMT, DM and Terminal board. I replaced 4 16v 1000uf capacitors on both the DM and FMT board and 2 10v capacitors on the terminal board. The terminal board was a bit of a pain because it is attached to another card with pegs. Here is what I ordered from http://www.digikey.com/:

qty 10 P13126-ND CAP 1000UF 35V ELECT EB RADIAL (4 for FMT and 4 for DM, 2 spares)
qty 2 P5521-ND CAP 1000UF 10V ELECT NHG RADIAL (used 2 on terminal board)
qty 2 P12353-ND CAP 1000UF 10V ELECT FM RADIAL (ordered these also incase the others would not fit on the terminal board)

Why the 35V caps instead of the 16v? This was the general recommendation of the forum. It is my understanding the 35v can better handle the voltage spikes these TVs experience. The P13126-ND capacitors are what others have been using, as well.

I have not seen too many complain about the terminal board but mine did in fact have 1 bulged capacitor so I replaced the two 1000uF 10v capacitors with the part numbers above.

I put everything back together and turned the TV on. I still had a blinking green light. I did some more research and found people were having issues with the power supply and the 3300uF capacitors. So I took it all out and looked at the power board. It did not have any visible issues but I ordered some new caps anyway. Here is what I ordered from Digikey:
qty 2 P5523-ND CAP 3300UF 10V ELECT NHG RADIAL

I put those new caps in and noticed this board also has 4 of the notoriously bad 16v 1000uF capacitors. Since I had two of my 35v 1000uF caps left I also replaced two of the 4 1000uF caps. I would recommend replacing all of them so when you place your digikey order make sure and get enough of the P13126-ND caps.

I put everything back together and still had the green blinking light. So I did some more research and found out about removing the FC connector from the FMT board and powering on the TV. Sure enough, the light went out. When the light goes out, you plug the FC connector back in and turn on the TV and it works. Here are the posts discussing this:

Post #5837 for FMT Connector hack
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post14843576

Post #5226 for FC Connector info
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post12765118

You can install a switch and use this method every time you lose power to the TV. I thought that was great, but I was not satisfied. I want to turn on my TV and not worry about a switch. I did some more research and found this issue is caused by more bad capacitors on the FMT board. These are not the fun and easy capacitors, these are surface mount capacitors (SMT). Great! A solution does exist and a wonderful user named tbully has made us a PowerPoint summing up pretty much all of the problems with these TVs and included pictures. Here is the link to the post that allowed me to move forward - downloading and reading this PowerPoint presentation is a must read and shows detailed pics of fixing the boards I mentioned above:

Post #5936
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post15064509

or

Post #5937
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post15064780

With this newly gained information I took out the chassis for a third time. I removed the FMT board and wrote down every single SMT capacitor on the board for reference. As you will see from tbully's presentation, not all SMT capacitors need to be replaced to fix the GBLOD issue relating to the FMT board. I replaced only the SMT capacitors he pointed out on the FMT, although many recommend you replace all SMT capacitors on the board. I placed yet another order from http://www.digikey.com/. Here is what I ordered:
qty 10 565-2446-1-ND CAP 100UF 16V ELECT MVY SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 565-2362-1-ND CAP 4.7UF 35V ELECT MVK SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 565-2356-1-ND CAP 47UF 16V ELECT MVK SMD (on FMT)
qty 10 P13126-ND CAP 1000UF 35V ELECT EB RADIAL (Spares)

I did not use all of these but bought 10 each to get the discount and have some spares. As you can see I also ordered 10 more of those notorious 1000uF capacitors that all should be replaced on this and the other boards.

I replaced all 18 SMT capacitors on the lower left quadrant of the FMT board. Starting with the first five on the bottom left hand side over to the second screw hole on the very bottom of the board. Count those bottom left 18 SMTs and you can visualize the ones that I replaced. The photo of the FMT board in tbully's presentation was slightly different than my FMT board.

Refer to this picture of the FMT board if you have the same one as me:
Format Board:
http://img169.imageshack.us/my.php?image=formatpk2.jpg

I found that picture from this post:
Post #5261 for pictures
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post12792395

I did a lot of reading on SMT soldering before attempting to do the SMT capacitor replacements. When the time came I still was not ready. You cannot use your desoldering iron. I used my 25 watt soldering pencil to lift one side of the capacitor at a time. Some suggested using two soldering irons at once. Ya, I would definately try that. The first capacitor I removed from the board caused the pad to solder to on the board to lift up. If you wreck these, you are pretty much screwed from what I gather. I ended up lifting about 10 solder pads all together but was very fortunate that none of them actually came off of the board. I spent about 1 hour removing and resoldering the new SMT capacitors on. If you know someone that knows how to do this, I would strongly suggest you ask them to help otherwise take your new capacitors and the board to a qualified electronics person.

I reconnected everything back to the chassis, said a prayer and plugged the TV in. The light blinked for 70 seconds and went out as expected. Problem solved. I now have TV for now.

A couple of things to mention. People that have done this fix have reported that down the road problems start to come back. Sometimes it is the GBLOD and other times it is a red light. This forum discusses these issues in detail if you take the time to go through the thousands of posts. I am hoping this fix will last me some time, but one never knows. I am willing to gamble.

Yes, the fan on the silver chassis runs ALL of the time, even when the TV is shut off. It does shut off if the power is turned off, of course. There are people that report their fans go bad. This will cause red blinking light errors from what I have read. While your TV is apart, make sure to clean the fans and blow out any excess dust using canned air.

Doing these fixes can permanently damage your boards so please be careful and be very patient. The TV is already broken, I guess, so maybe it does not matter. All in all it is a very fun and enriching experience especially when the TV works in the end. Good luck and have fun.

Bravo Hocus Pocus on a quality post!

Ok so I have the BGLOD for the second time...

Here is my Story:

Wd-62525
Had minor issues with it the first year
2nd year had a bad VGA port believe they replaced the FMT board but unknown
3rd year had BGLOD Had full Chasis repaired
now into 5th year and BGLOD again.......

This time I am out of extended warranty

Called Mits and dealt with a jerk who seemed very disinterested in my problems. Eventually told me they will send someone out at my expense but if repairs are needed they will review to see if they will help pay for them.
I did not like that option so I told him so, he refused to budge and so while he kept interrupting me I asked to talk to his manager, which he interrupted me again and said that they would pay for service tech.

Service tech comes out and visually inspects Tv, same service tech so he knew history, wrote a bid for around $500 for repair of dead unit. The next Tuesday (3 days) I called Mits and they said they had recieved it but I needed to fax receipt as well as they needed a service history. I handled the receipt they handled the service history. By Thursday (Easter Week) somebody called me with caller Id number of 111111, it was Mits and they wanted to make an offer. They would either pay for out of warranty service or they would sell me a 65737 for same price of repair (Around $500). I told them I would have to think about, but to call me on Monday (they were closed on Good Friday). So Monday around 3 I still had not talked to anybody, I called and got to someone who could not help but they transferred me to someone who may have been able to... She was unwilling to budge on the deal, I wanted an 837 as the 737 does not have Netcommand or sd card for picture loading. So as she refused I asked to speak with a supervisor, she put me on hold and said she was not available and they could call me back... I told her to have my rep call me and the supervisor. About 2 hours later my rep (the same Guy who called oN Thursday) called and offered me 65837 for same price around $500. I quickly accepted it and delivery is due this week! I already have a tracking number.

More on this on next post.....

Ok so now I am expecting shipment of new tv this week but somehow I have ended up with a 62525 with the same problems of my original and this one also has a rebuilt chasis (the old one was picked up for diposal, part of the deal). So I took it apart planning on doing the old capacitor check and the first board I looked on was the power board and sure enough 2 blown caps (3300 10v), I replaced these two caps and looked over the rest. I do not really know how to measure capacitors to see if they are working, but all of them had ohms except the 2 big ones (C9A26, C9A27) and negative ohms on one big one at location C9A02 on the power board. See attached PDF

The PDF includes all markings on all the boards, I suppose these are the caps and other things that were fixed or in someway fixed or suspect when they did the chasis repair.

My voltages on test points are in pdf..


My question can these big Caps
C9A02 185D122050 C-ELEC - H200V 1000M-M (negative ohms)
C9A26 185D122050 C-ELEC - H200V 1000M-M (No Ohms)
C9A27 185D122050 C-ELEC - H200V 1000M-M (No Ohms)

cause all of my problems?

All of my other Caps visually look ok and measured the ohms in the usual suspects. There is a brown substance all around these boards, not sure if it was from a cap exploding or something but it is dried and you can lightly scrape it off.... But none of this is around any of the blown caps that we repaired...

I don't mind sending a board off to PTS but I don't want to spend as little as possible being all the troubles this model of tv has caused me...

Thanks
aevans0001

also attached is a list of the usual suspects according to one of htose all in one kits, this also includes the mIts part number and location on the board...



Edit:
Here is Tbully's powerpoint the last link I saw was dead. The link is Aevans0001 Share Page

Edit again:

Added some more documents I got from Paul to my share page above... Also converted all files to PDF to ensure universal viewing pleasure... jUst click the link above... I hope nobody minds that I converted their work, none of this work is my own... Fixed Link


Thanks
Aevans0001

 

cAPACITORS.pdf 6.84765625k . file

 

Voltages.pdf 5.95703125k . file

 

wd-62525 cHASIS FIX.pdf 9.3720703125k . file

Still looking for these caps...

Anybody know if these are the snap in kind? Or a Mouser or Digikey Part number? Having a hard time finding them....

Thanks!



*Edit*

I found a manual that has all the schematics injected into them! Not 100% sure if these come directly from V26 or not, I suppose they should!!!!! This is a great find thanks to RICHARD SCHRODER from I believe SchematicForums.com

Ok I went a different way.....

I called up the tech that had serviced the tv numerous times as he sold me a power board for $60.00..... SLipped it in and it worked!

He also mentioned something about switching some of the caps on 2 of the boards from 1000uf to 660uf I will try and get more details, but i got lost at lowering them...

Here's my story: I have a Mitsubishi WD52825 that was purchased in 2005. I had the lamp replaced last September. The TV had been working fine until last night. I turned it on and it took longer than usual to power up. When it did the screen was blue with a lined-out type circle in the center. I could hear the TV or PS3 through audio, but I had no picture. I tried with my DirecTV through both component and HDMI with the same result of the circle with lines through it in the middle of the screen. As soon as I turned DirecTV off the screen was just blue.

I was able to access the menu and look at everything, i.e. set-up, color, input devices etc., but I just could not get anything to input on the screen so I could actually watch TV or access my game system.

I hit the reset button and got the same result after I powered the TV back up. I went through the manual reset to restore factory defaults and nothing changed. I unplugged the TV once with the same result. The 2nd time I unplugged the TV when it came back on all of a sudden I got a red light by the lamp indicator. As I mentioned I had just replaced the lamp 8 months ago. I unplugged the set again and when I powered it up I got a flashing green light by the timer and then the flashing stopped and it was just a solid green as normal.

I then took out the newer lamp and put my old lamp in (which was still working when I replaced it) but I got the same red light by the lamp indicator after I plugged the TV back in and powered it up. Of course now the screen is black and I have no picture at all

Fortunately my extended warranty runs until October of this year. I called today and they suggested that I replace the lamp first (they will send me a new one) and if that doesn't work then they will send a tech out. I'm a novice, but I just don't know how this could be a lamp problem, especially since before I reset the TV I could still get the blue screen and access the menu.

Has anyone else experienced this or can anyone share some insight as to what the problem might be?

I'm sorry I don't know what the problem might be but I'm almost sure it's not the lamp.

I think 5 years is about the life span of these dlp's. Mine died 2 weeks before the extended warranty expired. Was sent back to mitsu for a chassis rebuild. Each time it died again after less than three weeks. Finally convinced mitsu to give me store credit after it died a 3rd time. The gave me $645. Was able to buy a nice 40 inch Sony Bravia. We had replaced the mitsu as our primary tv lin March 09 with a 52 inch Samsung.

This may have been answered before. But I'm couldn't find it. If there anyway to test a bulb outside of the tv? There is something wrong with my tv and I got a new bulb, but when I put it in, after a few seconds it still says it is bad and I would like to be able to check the bulb independently of the TV.

As stated numerous times, anytime you have a problem with this model mits call them before doing anything... They will work with you and either fix it.. Read some of this forum particularily int he last 2 months and you will find other suggestions..

Mine is a WD-6725 and I'm the original owner. I took the advice of numerous posters and today I called Mitsubishi Customer Relations and explained that my set has been having intermittent BGLOD issues since about year two of ownership. I had called Mits back then and they told me to get a new bulb which I did. Problem somehow went away for almost a year, then called again and they gave me name of local authorized repair service who came out reseated everything and somehow made it work. Fast forward another year and BGLOD happens again so I call the guy direct and he comes out, says it could be power supply or DM board. He has rebuilt power supplies due in from Mits in a week. Meantime, I try every trick known and after 3-4 days the set stops blinking and works 2 days before super bowl. I call the tech and he says the "fix" is temporary, it will break again. Last week, it dies again.

So I relay all this to the Mits guy this morning and he gives me a incident number, tells me to fax a copy of the original purchase invoice along with an estimate of repairs from the local tech. Honestly, I am not anxious to have Mits repair this particular set or have them send back a refurbished chassis. I am going to see if they will work some sort of deal on a newer, comparable replacement set. Between the cost of repairs, shipment back and forth, and other incidentals... the price of a replacement that has a better chance of holding up might make more sense.

I have heard they will pay between $350-$450 for some of the repair work, and I're read where some Mits owners were offered a new dlp set for anywhere between $450-$$750. Actually, Slickdeals has a 65" Mits DLP for $900.00 right now.

Stay tuned and I will update as soon as I send them the required material and hear back from Mits.