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Mitsubishi WD XX725 owners thread - Page 243

post #7261 of 7433
Quote:
Originally Posted by nsur View Post

I called them and they asked me to call the authorized dealer number which they provided based on my zip. It cost 85 (he did the estimate over the phone in 10 minutes). faxed the estimate 650 repair cost and the receipt. They called me back in two days and offered a replacement. First offer was for 800. i told them that was a lot considering i paid 4600 and it lasted 6 years. They countered with 650 white glove or 600 door delivery. i opted for door delivery. they accept MO or CC only. total 685. Need to get rid of 62725. Any ideas?
number to call 1-800-332-2119

Still waiting for my call, I will push for store credit but I may take them up on a similar offer as you. Otherwise, I get nothing out of it.

So, it was a total of $685 ($600 + $85 shipping), no sales tax?
post #7262 of 7433
Ok cool,

Disposal of 62725, rip out the chassis and send to me, then place carcass in a desert canyon and empty 1000 rounds of your desired firearm into it to relieve the stress and headaches it has caused lol
post #7263 of 7433
Can't figure out how to air my complaints on this thread so I hope this works. Bought a WS55511 in 04 for $2,000. In 08, had to spend $500.00 for a new lamp. Had a power outage two weeks ago, the set dies. I read up on it on the internet and am advised to first replace the capacitors with Panisonic hi-temp ones from digikey, which my son did. The t.v. finally works, but then dies after 1 minute. This happens continuously throughout the even he is working on it checking plugs and fuses and everything he could think of. All in all, nothing works. I have been in touch with Mitsubishi, but they want me to get a service tech here (another $100.00 just for him to walk in the door). I am like, no, why don't you tell me you will pay for the service tech to come here, then I will get them here. I am in the hole $2,500.00 for this piece of garbage that it seems everyone else is having a problem with also. CSR doesn't want to help me so I ask for a supervisor and do what she asks which is to fax copies of the bill of sale and the repair bill. They call me yesterday to ask if I got the service tech here yet, and I said no, I am not happy with this product and need you to tell me what exactly you are willing to do. Are you willing to pay for the tech to come here and fix the t.v., or are you willing to pay for "just the parts" to repair said t.v. He didn't have an answer for me and said someone else will call me back today to speak with me. They never called today. I will call tomorrow to find out what they are willing to do, like a gift certificate or a replacement tv. I am so angry. They should have recalled these tv.'s. Someone tell me if you think I am going about it in the right way. Right now, as it stands, we are throwing this tv out and buying another t.v. because I refuse to dump more money in this pile of **it. Please advise.
post #7264 of 7433
I replaced the bulb and soon after colored lines began to appear both vertically and horizontally. Can someone tell me what this is?

Is that what bad caps look like? (see below) They almost look like interference. They get wavey and squiggly. Some channels have it worse than others; some don't have any lines.

Anyway, I think it's time we said goodbye. I can only say that owning this tv has been a huge disappointment. I cannot and will not recommend any Mitsubishi product to anyone I know. Ever. *sigh*
LL
LL
post #7265 of 7433
I replaced 4 caps on the DM board, 1 of the originals melted others bulged.
I replaced 8 on the FMT Power board, 3 bulging.

Prior to this I did tons of research, bought the correct capacitors, and hoped this would fix my blinking green light.

Well it did, now though the TV Turns off after 30 seconds, no picture yet, and I have a solid red status light. Check the error code and it is 44 (DVI cable unplugged). I replaced the DVI cable and same situation.

Has anyone else had this or found a way around it? I thought it may be a short but I've checked my soldering and everything looks good.


Also is there a thread for just technical questions and not rants that would be more appropriate for me to ask in? Any help at all is much appreciated.
post #7266 of 7433
Got my WD-60738 replacement for my WD-52725 today. $350 ($200 for TV + $150 white glove delivery), plus $60 for repair estimate. Tried to get a deal on the 3D starter pack but they wouldn't go for it. Now I need to tell the repair guys they can trash the old TV; I don't want to see it again! Let's hope this new one works well, at least for a few years!
post #7267 of 7433
marshman98, yes it is the caps on one of the boards.

jrobe, this is probably the best thread other than starting your own, the only time I had that fault was when my DVI cable was unplugged. Double check all of your connections, if not you might have more bad caps or another problem.
post #7268 of 7433
paco - It can't be the dvi cable, I can only think of a short. I've double checked and cleaned thoroughly my new caps and solder points. If I wasn't bald I'd pull my hair out!
post #7269 of 7433
LOL

Is it possible you put one of the caps in backwards? Possible connector not connected or in the wrong spot on one of the other boards?
post #7270 of 7433
Quote:
Originally Posted by pacofortacos View Post

LOL

Is it possible you put one of the caps in backwards? Possible connector not connected or in the wrong spot on one of the other boards?

hahaha No I got them all in correct. I have found 3 more swollen 1000 uf caps on the board in front of the DM. I need to replace those. Additionally further reading has shown a few other people with this diagnose the problem. Apparently one of the surface mount fuses on the pwr board is open. I'm awaitin a response on if they replaced the fuse with a glass one or what. I need to check more with a voltmeter, or just buy a new pwr board! they are only $109
post #7271 of 7433
ok i know that this forum has talked alot about the issues im having... the problem is i cant seem to maks sence of them all, nor find all the info on it... its a big a** thread lol. anyways i have a WD-52525 that was just given to my by a family member who told me it just needed a bulb. So i went out and bought one and replaced it.... $150 later i still have a tv that doesnt work.. this is what im seeing... when i turn on the tv i get no picture and a static sound that i can control with the volume + & -, then a few minuets later the set turns off compleatly and the "lamp" light goes to a solid red, with an error code 34 Lamp abnormality. I have also noted that durring the few minuets that the set is on, the lamp never even turns on. after some resurch on this site i took the guts out to look for swollen caps. I have none that are swollen on the main board. In fact... apperently my grandfather had sent it in under warrenty for some reason, and the caps had been replaced already by a mitsubishi tech, this i can tell because the tech had marked the two 3300 and the four 1000 caps with a red sharpie. Also i had the bulb installed into the housing by a local tv tech, and the conectors going from the bulb to the ballast are not bent over. any ideas on what my problem is? thanks a ton guys!
post #7272 of 7433
One last try.

WD 62725, had BGLOD after moving to a new apartment. Worked before, set it up and bam... dead.

I replaced four 1000 uf caps on the DM and PWR boards. I also changed two 2200 and two 3300 uf on the power board. Hooking everything back up the BGLOD went away, tv turned on with no picture, then went to a red status light error code 44. DVI cable did not fix it.

I took the chassis back apart, and noticed the FMT board had four 1000 uf caps, every so slightly swollen. I replaced these four, set everything back up, AND I HAVE PICTURE!!!

The TV is working, when I first turned it on it came to a blue screen asking if I want to replace the lamp. I clicked the button indicating no. The blue screen looked perfect, everything was sharp as is the text. Hooking up an HDMI signal I get wavy lines across the whole screen. I have read much saying this indicates bad caps, but the blue screen was not wavy, and I JUST changed the bad caps. I have tried different signals and different HDMI cables.

Does anyone have any suggestions?
post #7273 of 7433
1.jpg = Blue set up screen, no signal.
2.jpg = set up screen with dvd loading.
3.jpg = dvd playback.

Please help! I think it may have to do with the signal processing, just can't think of how, where, or why.
LL
LL
LL
post #7274 of 7433
Now it's happened to me. I made the mistake of unplugging my 62525 in order to move some components around and now it won't turn on. It keeps flashing the green timer light for about a dozen times and then pauses for a second and then starts flashing again. I guess this is the BGLOD or whatever it's called? I called Mitsubishi and they want me to get a diagnosis and estimate. The technician couldn't get an error code when he asked me to try different button combinations. The technician is coming in Monday to look at it. What should I do? Should I ask Mitsubishi for a discounted replacement instead of messing around with this model and fixing it over and over? I'm tempted to ask for the replacement, do you agree?
post #7275 of 7433
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrobe121 View Post

1.jpg = Blue set up screen, no signal.
2.jpg = set up screen with dvd loading.
3.jpg = dvd playback.

Please help! I think it may have to do with the signal processing, just can't think of how, where, or why.


dude, check every cap on every board on the chassis. takes a bit of time to access all of them but thats what i have done and mine works now.
post #7276 of 7433
I was afraid I'd have to do that, nonetheless I have checked most of them visually. I've replaced all the 1000 uf, 2200 uf, and 3300 uf's. I've been told that cleaning the cable ribbons can help... so trying it now!

I will post results soon
post #7277 of 7433
jrobe, search Tbully and see if you can find his write up, it is most likely the surface mount caps on the one board - they usually DO NOT visually look bad.

Will it give you lines using all inputs? INCLUDING the antenna?
post #7278 of 7433
lujan YES if you are the original owner AND they offer you a replacement TAKE IT, the new sets picture is far superior to your set
post #7279 of 7433
How long has it taken once you submitted the money order for the replacement and they have received it for the tv to ship?

For instance, I mailed the money order from Colorado to MDEA on Monday 1.10.11 and expect them to receive payment yesterday or possibly today.

Also, do they call you with a tracking number?

It is a rather large box (wd-60738) and will likely need someone to sign for it...
post #7280 of 7433
Ok, like most of use i also have the BGLOD. I have already had someone come out to my home and fix all the caps on the boards. They told me that my voltage needed to be at a steady 5 it was reading 6.97 the guy did something to bring them down and it started smoking in the rear of the tv. He hasent been back since or willnt answer the phone. i have a wd62725 and would like to have it replaced with the 65738 but i cant find the reciept anywhere( ive looked for hours) has anyone tried to get a replacement without a reciept yet. Do you think Mitsubishi will give me one without the reciept. I bought it new from Circuit city but they have went out of biss since then. Please someone help me with my ????. Thanks a million
post #7281 of 7433
Hi all,

I have 2 bad FMT boards. I have changed the 4 1000uf capacitors on both boards and checked the 3 fuses on each with no luck. I've been told the small aluminum surface capacitors almost never fail short of a lightning strike, is this true?. Is there any other parts I should check or change on these boards or are they both junk? I'm only trying to get 1 of them working the other can be for parts.

Thanks,
post #7282 of 7433
Guys, seriously. If you are interested in fixing your tv's, you NEED to replace EVERY ONE of the aluminum SMT caps, and probably ALL of the other caps as well. There are the typical usual suspects on the main boards, which may get you back up and running. But all of the others are extremely suspect too, and will fail very soon after you start seeing one of the typical problems. I posted a list of replacement caps with part numbers for Digikey; these parts are also upgrades to the ones installed by Mits. Mits runs all of these caps WAY too close to ratings, which combined with the high heat, leads to a shortened life span. Just some words of warning.

Also, my CL acquired set actually had swollen caps on the INPUT board too! So inspect every one of the electrolytic caps on every board. And if you are going through the trouble of replacing any of them, replace them with one that will still fit the space, but has the highest voltage rating possible, as well as temp spec.

Good luck gentlemen.
post #7283 of 7433
Quote:
Originally Posted by ravensfan4life View Post

Do you think Mitsubishi will give me one without the reciept. I bought it new from Circuit city but they have went out of biss since then. Please someone help me with my ????. Thanks a million

I doubt it - if you have had previous issues and a case open they may not need original receipt. On both of mine (52525 and 62725) I had to fax receipt and prior work history thru the tech.

It wouldn't hurt to try and see if the original merchant has the transaction or your card merchant may be able to help if you used a credit card.
post #7284 of 7433
BUMP???

"How long has it taken once you submitted the money order for the replacement and they have received it for the tv to ship?"
post #7285 of 7433
Quote:
Originally Posted by garciab View Post
Guys, seriously. If you are interested in fixing your tv's, you NEED to replace EVERY ONE of the aluminum SMT caps, and probably ALL of the other caps as well. There are the typical usual suspects on the main boards, which may get you back up and running. But all of the others are extremely suspect too, and will fail very soon after you start seeing one of the typical problems. I posted a list of replacement caps with part numbers for Digikey; these parts are also upgrades to the ones installed by Mits. Mits runs all of these caps WAY too close to ratings, which combined with the high heat, leads to a shortened life span. Just some words of warning.

Also, my CL acquired set actually had swollen caps on the INPUT board too! So inspect every one of the electrolytic caps on every board. And if you are going through the trouble of replacing any of them, replace them with one that will still fit the space, but has the highest voltage rating possible, as well as temp spec.

Good luck gentlemen.


Thanks for the advice, I ordered new caps last night. Lets see what type of luck I have
post #7286 of 7433
Quote:
Originally Posted by pacofortacos View Post

jrobe, search Tbully and see if you can find his write up, it is most likely the surface mount caps on the one board - they usually DO NOT visually look bad.

Will it give you lines using all inputs? INCLUDING the antenna?

Yea I get lines on all inputs, I'm just leaving it as is. I replaced lots of caps! I've had it with the thing
post #7287 of 7433
Hey if anyone needs a PWR board for a 62725 I have one for sale! I purchased from discount-merchant.com and that wasn't needed.
post #7288 of 7433
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrobe121 View Post

Yea I get lines on all inputs, I'm just leaving it as is. I replaced lots of caps! I've had it with the thing

You did a lot more than I ever would have done. I'm still waiting on Mitsubishi to see what they're going to do with my problem. The estimate says that they need to replace the whole chassis.
post #7289 of 7433
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrobe121 View Post

Hey if anyone needs a PWR board for a 62725 I have one for sale! I purchased from discount-merchant.com and that wasn't needed.

How Much? trickertreat69 at gmail dot com
post #7290 of 7433
Shipping company called and said they will deliver replacement WD60738 tomorrow between 930 and 11 am.

So, it appears that it takes about a week once they get your payment and the item drops.

I live in western Colorado so this isnt too bad.

I got a call Friday before last that they received my payment. Got another call the following Tuesday that they wanted to sell me a stand for $200...

Hope that didn't hold the shipping up needlessly.
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