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Yet another progress picture log...

post #1 of 229
Thread Starter 
With the excellent picture logs that have been going up lately, I thought I'd add my own. I'm about 9 months into it....hoping to be complete by Feb/March (an hour here, an hour there). It's my own design, mostly with ideas and techniques commonly used here. The interior space is about 15 x 19 x 8.5.

I've got more pictures if you'd like some detail, but these are sort of "milestones".


Thanks for looking. Feedback/input is very welcome.
post #2 of 229
Looking real good - what are your room dimensions?

Kind of makes me wish that I'd taken pictures as I went along...

post #3 of 229
It looks like you are doing a great job. You must have the patience of Job. You are 9 months in and are projecting your completion date sometime in March.... I'm two months in and I'm aching to recline in my 090's.

post #4 of 229

Thanks. 15' wide, 19.5' front wall to doors, 8.5' height.


Yeah. Taking my time (other responsibilities dictate that). February is the completion date goal since my wife and I are expecting TRIPLETS some time in Feb/March. About then, time will be quite a difficult thing to come by I'm guessing. Crikey!

post #5 of 229
I've got the exact same ceiling lights as you, but am debating how to space them. My room is 15x24, with about 11' between the soffits. How many sets of the lights do you have through the course of your room, and how long is your room?

I've got 3 sets right now, with three cans in front to wash the screen. Suggestions since you've "been there, done that" with these lights?
post #6 of 229
The lights are Tiella 5-light Sola Rail Easy Kits. I knew I wanted this style and these were the best of the affordable track/rail systems I looked into (no rattles). I have one 10' section over the seating riser with all 5 heads being used. Then the one in front is 10' also but I'm only using 4 of the 5 heads. I also have 3 sconces on each side wall. I attached a diagram showing light locations and rough orientation.
post #7 of 229
Very nice HT project, looks very well thought out and neat

post #8 of 229
Thread Starter 
Added pic....Wall treatment complete. I still need to treat the soffit undersides and then I'll be ready for carpet!

post #9 of 229
Why did you build the soffits before putting up drywall? I have assumed that the entire room should be coated in drywall and sealed before building anything else.

I must admit I've just now realized I'm not sure to what I'm going to attach my soffits with this plan, but I think the RSIC clip channel I ran should work.

How wide / high are your soffits?
post #10 of 229
Thread Starter 
True. "In a perfect world", you should seal the room and then add the soffits. Although in my case, I had duct work that ran down each side of the room. Because of this, on both sides, my walls could not reach the actual ceiling height. So, I double-drywalled the walls, then added the soffits covering the ductwork, then added the RSIC/double-layer ceiling in-between the soffits. All gaps were then sealed with 50-year flexible caulk.

My soffits are 16" tall and slightly over 24" wide.

FYI for those wondering about how successful my "soundproofing" turned out to be...I can work at night using my power mitre saw in the room and it can't be heard in the bedrooms AT ALL. (two floors above)

It still makes me nervous being loud around midnight even though I know my wife and daughter can't hear a peep. I know a thumping sub won't be 100% contained but I'm thrilled with the results so far.
post #11 of 229
Good job.

post #12 of 229

It looks really good and I am about at the same place you are. It seems the Summer yard work and such take my time too. I hope to be done by Thanksgiving. I gotta get busy !

Post more pics as your progress goes !

post #13 of 229

Originally posted by DKaps
my wife and I are expecting TRIPLETS some time in Feb/March.

OUCH. As a twin myself, (yes, god made two of me) you can take comfort in one thing, they'll be able to tire eachother out and you'll just get to deal with increased food and clothing costs. (plus the need to shop and cook and prepare said increases, :-) )

And the room looks great! What speakers are those? Monitor Audio? Tyler? Can't quite tell from the pics...
post #14 of 229
How do you affix the wood strips to the drywall - just screws?
post #15 of 229

I used drywall screws and good old construction adhesive. Course, I got lucky now and again and got a stud lol.

Hope this helps.

post #16 of 229
Thread Starter 
Thanks everyone.....

The speakers shown are Monitor Audio Bronze B2's. They will actually be used for rear surrounds. They've been in the box waiting for about 4 months. IMO...they are a price/performance steal for a bookshelf speaker. My actual fronts are Monitor Audio Gold Reference 10's and center channel, FXi side surrounds and a VTF-2 sub (All on duty in the living room until the room is complete).

My strips are attached via Liquid Nails and drywall screws. I actually have since removed many of the screws (because I ran out), and the strips are going nowhere with the glue alone. I know this because after having one in place for about an hour, I needed to move it about an inch. I could not budge it without serious prying.
post #17 of 229

I have had the same expierence with this adhesive. You better be sure where you want it prior to it setting up for sure !

post #18 of 229
Nice work, how much room did you allow on the riser for the Berklines?
What color ceiling paint is that, it looks like midnight blue.

The room that I am working on is 15' X 27', but my height is only 8'. My PJ will sit just above my riser and I am afraid of making my riser to high becuase of this.

If you don't mind take some close up shots when you start to do the fabric cover. This is something that I am not 100 % sure on how to do yet. I am trying to avoid using a chair rail I like the fabric only look myself. Thanks
post #19 of 229
Thread Starter 
The seating plan is a set of 3 Berkline 88's, curved, in front of the riser and an 88 love seat on each side, on the riser. So, when you walk in, you pass between two love seats and walk around either left or right to step down to the front row. The riser height is 9". The riser depth at the loveseat locations is about 5 3/4 feet.

The ceiling color is Behr - Midnight Sky. (1.5 gallons - 3 coats not including the tinted primer)

The projector location will be above and just slightly behind the head of the front row (probably using lens shift to keep the proj. mounted nice and high).

I will have a chair rail as I am going to have two-tone walls - Quartz on top with Baltic below with black screenwall and procenium (or is it proceniums?).
post #20 of 229

I am making panels for my theater. I am building them right on the wall so each piece matches the location where it will go. For my front wall, I am going to make one large panel and just sew the fabric together. Well, the WAF is going to sew the panels, not me lol. She is GOOD on a sewing machine and can make seams that do not show.

What made me post a response was you could do the same thing. You could sew the two different colors together at the seam. Course this is if you have a sewing machine up to the task and the skills so the seam wont show. I asked my wife if she could do it (I knew she could, she has done it before) and she thought it would be very easy to do.

Just a thought...

post #21 of 229
Thread Starter 
The thing that would scare me about that is making sure that your tension is the same across the panel, so that your seam doesn't rise and fall, or wave left and right.

If I wanted a seamless look, I'd make separate panels where the fabric was stapled to the inside or behind the adjoining strips. IE, doing one panel and then attaching the other strip with the fabric already stapled to that end.
post #22 of 229
I did exactly as you say...I made seperate panels for the differant colors. However, with my front screen wall which will be behind the screen, will be flat black, and since my wife uses those seam insert thingies that are backed with some sort of reinforcement of some kind, I feel fairly safe there.

To each his own I guess.

post #23 of 229
I want my panels to be removable, so what I am planning is making individual wood frames with the OC in it, then go ahead and wrap the GOM fabric around the frame. What I am not so sure about is what would hold the frame in place on the wall so that its secure enough not to fall or rattle, but be able to take it down if need be.(ie damaged or stain be the kiddos)

Those wood strips on your wall, are they 1/2" in thickness?

post #24 of 229
Dan - looks great, thanks for the pictorial!
post #25 of 229

I used industrial strength velcro. Don't laugh, this stuff holds until you want it to let go. And then sometimes it takes some absolute prying to get them off !

Seriously though, I am using this industrial strength velcro and I only did the corners on some of the 4'x4' ones. The larger and more interesting shapes got it in several places.

My other alternative to velcro is the mounts used for pictures that have a screw and a "receiver" that attaches to the frame. This would be good on holding power but maybe not so good on rattles. Thus, I chose the velcro instead. Plus, we can take them down and recover with another color or add/decrease the amount of "stuffing" to suite our listening ears.

I like it anyway lol

post #26 of 229
The strips are 1" thick ripped 2x's. So, 1.5" by 1". (The duct liner wall treatment commonly used around here is an inch thick)

For an excellent example of separate frames (and velcro actually), check out what Jerry did in this thread if you missed it earlier:

post #27 of 229
Silly question, but where does one find "industrial" velcro?
post #28 of 229

What kind of doors are you going to use? I've been looking at various outside doors and don't like the mettle ones as they seem too fake. The fiberglass doors seem nicer but I am not sure which type is best.

post #29 of 229
Whats the deal on 1" wood? I was looking for 1" X 2" and when I found it it's more like 3/4" x 1 1/2". Is this what you used DKaps, and just cut the last half inch off?

post #30 of 229
My doors are called "Safe 'N Sound" made by Premdoor. They can be found at Lowe's. My double door set (two 30" doors) with a custom 6" wide jamb was only $311. Not bad, considering Home Depot quoted me $1800 for an equivalent.

FYI...the 6" wide jamb was because of: 1/2" drywall outside, 2x4 framing, two layers of 1/2" drywall inside, 1" of acoustic treatment = 6" total.


That's just the way lumber is measured. For example, a 2x4 is actually 1.5 X 3.5. There's a reason behind it, but it escapes me at the moment.

I ripped some 2x3's I had lying around, and then some 2x10's to make my 1" thick strips. So, my strips are 1.5" wide and 1" thick. The only lumber I know of that is readilly available at an actual 1" thick is 5/4 boards used for decking. I had originally planned on getting and ripping those but all of the 2x3's I had were just collecting dust so I changed course. One thing about ripping 1" strips from larger lumber, don't make much more than you will use in a day or so. Mine warped like crazy after a few days. I've got some that I swear would come back if threw them.

FYI...picked out carpet today. I will get measured on Wednesday and install is planned for 19 Oct. I didn't want to spend as much as I did, but it should be beautiful when it's in. We only do this once right? Art not withstanding.

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