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Denon 3910 Owners Thread - Page 150

post #4471 of 7479
Quote:
Originally Posted by swatter911 View Post

If your 3805 is like my 5805, the setup "DLink No Signal: Ext. In." is asking you what you want it to use if there is no Dlink signal.

Rob,

This is correct...the 3805 is asking what to default to if there's no signal present from the DLink. I also found this confusing, but the DL3 works great. I use it for everything now, including 2-channel stereo which I had always run via analog and let the 3910 do the work. It will handle everything beautifully between the 3805 (or 5805) and the 3910 (or 5910/5900). Just check the front display when you pop in a disc...it should flash DLink and then display whatever format you're playing (DD, DVD-A, SACD, etc).

Good Luck!

Jason
post #4472 of 7479
Thanks, guys... I've got it all setup properly. This is my third 3910, and it's the only one on which I couldn't get the DL to work. The DVD player's Denon Link light even lights up, but no signal is being passed. I just don't know what the hell to do. I'm tired of exchanging these things. I'll try to locate a cable and see what that does. Thanks again.

Rob
post #4473 of 7479
Oh...and how do I re-initialize the 3805? Thanks!

Update: I just tried a different cable and re-initialized the 3805...to no avail. I hate Denon. Grrrr...
post #4474 of 7479
Wow, that is bad luck. I've never had any problems with either my 3805 or 3910, or even my 11 year-old AVR-3000 for that matter, so I guess I should love Denon. ;-)
post #4475 of 7479
Update II: I tried another cable, and viola! DL3 is active. What are the odds of trying two faulty cables? Now I just have a unit that doesn't pass BTB. Does anyone know how long it takes to ship to Denon and have them fix it? Thanks to everyone for all your help. I truly appreciate it.

Rob
post #4476 of 7479
Rob-

Is it really worth it to send your unit to Denon to have them fix the BTB issue when you might not even notice that it wasn't there? Only playing Devil's Advocate here...

BTW, glad you got the issue resolved...maybe you can retract your "I hate Denon" statement? Unless of course you still hate them...

Jason
post #4477 of 7479
Jason,

I'm still not terribly happy with them. They really need to work on their quality control and customer service. So...I guess I'll partially retract my statement...or at least reword it.

Do you really not notice the lack of below black information? As I understood it, it makes a huge difference. On my other units, as soon as I realized they didn't pass, I freaked and sent them back. How big of a deal is the lack of BTB? Thanks!

Rob
post #4478 of 7479
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burkerg View Post

Do you really not notice the lack of below black information? As I understood it, it makes a huge difference. On my other units, as soon as I realized they didn't pass, I freaked and sent them back. How big of a deal is the lack of BTB? Thanks!
Rob

It all depends on who you talk to and what type of display you have.

Bugatti says the new Veyron 16.4 will go 252mph when it is finally on the streets. Considering the type of coin they want for it it better go 252mph. But if someone gave me one it really wouldn't matter to me if it goes 252 or not as that's faster than I even need to go in a four wheel vehicle.

Some will argue that this is not a good analogy as being able to pass BTB aids in the proper set up and calibration of the player and TV while being able to go 252 mph has nothing to do with the basic operation of the vehicle. But, it's my argument and I'm sticking with it.

Mine doesn't pass BTB and looks fantastic hooked up to my CRT TV.

Just my $.02
post #4479 of 7479
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burkerg View Post

Jason,

I'm still not terribly happy with them. They really need to work on their quality control and customer service. So...I guess I'll partially retract my statement...or at least reword it.

Do you really not notice the lack of below black information? As I understood it, it makes a huge difference. On my other units, as soon as I realized they didn't pass, I freaked and sent them back. How big of a deal is the lack of BTB? Thanks!

Rob


I think the analogy of the bugatti Veyron is pretty good actually.....although I would argue that it is closer to a Lamborghini Murcielago ......the 5910 is more in the Veyron's price range

but seriously, the BTB issue is not going to change the quality of your viewing experience with this unit....yes, it is good to know is there, and yes, it may help with certain calibration setups. But it will totally not make a difference on how good a DVD looks on your display! If you are upset because your Murcielago goes 201 instead of 205 mph, then I guess it is important
post #4480 of 7479
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigiPete View Post

If you set the sub to 'no', and surrounds/center to small, you are taking the frequencies being sent to those speakers that are below crossover freq, and sending them... nowhere (no sub).

Source direct sets all speakers to large, so you do get some bass to the surround and center speakers. You can get the same effect by setting all speakers to large in the setup menu.

Thanks for the reply Digi,
My test results showed that this is not the case. If I set the sub to "NO", the bass from the small speakers would get routed to the large speakers.
Only if I set sub to "yes" and didn't actually have one plugged in, then the bass would get routed from small speakers to the unconnected sub channel....nowhere.



Test1: I set front=large, center+surrounds=small, sub=no, xover=100Hz

results1:
1a: low frequency sweep to R front, would output full range of sweep (as low as the speaker could handle anyway) out the front speaker @ ~ 72dB

1b: low frequency sweep to R surround, would output sweep to from surround @ ~ 72dB until about 120Hz then would drop to ~ 68dB until around 100Hz when some signal would be output from the fronts as well. Around 80Hz, enough signal is coming out of the combined R surround and both fronts to add back up to ~ 72dB overall.
As the sweep drops lower, the output from the fronts continually intensifies while the output from the R surround continually drops. The overall signal output varies significantly with several +/- 3dB peaks and dips as the sweep moves down to ~ 40Hz and lower where I ultimately begin to lose output as I hit the limits of my speaker's low freq. response.

Test2: same as test 1 except sub is set to "yes"
2a: low freq sweep to R front, resulted same as in 1a, the large front passed full range @ ~72dB

2b: low freq sweep to R surround, would output from R surround @ ~ 72dB until about 120Hz where it steadily dropped to about 68dB by 100Hz and continued to fade as the bass was redirected to a non-existent sub, no R surround signal was redirected out the large fronts.

Test3: 3910 set to source direct mode
3a: low freq sweep to R front output @ ~ 84dB across full range of sweep from 200Hz until about 40Hz, lower frequency outputs varied from about 78dB to 74dB until response faded away completely.
3b: low freq sweep to R surround output @ ~ 84dB across full range of sweep from 200Hz until about 50Hz, lower frequency outputs varied from about 78dB to 74dB until response faded away completely.

hypothesis1: with bass management on and no sub, the low freq is redirected from the small speakers to the large speakers but overall output is down about -12dB relative to source direct mode. There is also a large dip of more than -4dB as the signal passes over the crossover point and bass is redirected from the smalls to the large (This is opposite of what you would expect in my setup where you would expect a slight overall increase in output as signal is redirected from a single RB-35 bookshelf to the 2 larger and more sensitive RF-35 floorstanders).
Additionally, the overall output across the sweep is very non-linear with several additional +/-3dB peaks and dips.

hypothesis2: with sub set to "yes", large speakers are passed full range signal with no redirection, small speakers get bass redirected to the sub channel which in my case had nothing connected to it.

hypothesis3: the source direct mode outputs about +12dB higher than "managed" mode. There is no bass management in source direct mode. But, in my setup, the result appears to be a much more linear response with much better fidelity than with using the bass management.


for further investigation:

Why is there a drop in overall output as the bass management redirects signal from 1 bookshelf R surround to 2 floorstanders when, if anything, it would seem the opposite should occur? I would expect the overall system response to be fairly linear until I hit the crossover point and then should get an increase in bass response as signal is redirected from a single bookshelf to two floorstanders.
By adjusting the crossover frequency setting, I should have been able to find a setting where the increase of bass response was not too disproportionately high to the amount of signal being redirected from the small speaker.
This just wasn't the case, more signal was lost from the small speaker than was redirected to the large speakers at any crossover frequency setting from about 1/2 octave above the crossover point until about 1/2 octave below the crossover point.....WHY!? WHY!? WHY!?

Is the additional observation of +/-3dB dips in the bass managed output really a characteristic of the 3910 bass management, or is it just accentuating variances in the freq response of my speakers or listening room that I'm failing to observe in my source direct test measurements? (since it's outputting +12dB higher and I'm not doing a careful freq response plot, just listening and watching a SPL meter in real time)

To answer this, I'll need to do a more careful freq response plot of my system in source direct mode and compare it to a plot in managed mode.

PS:
A few other things I learned/observed during my testing:

The crossover filter employed by the 3910 doesn't appear to be a very high Q filter, maybe about 2nd order, as there was still quite a bit out output at 50Hz from the small speaker with the xover set at 100Hz. A careful plot will tell more about this.

In source direct mode, the channel level controls still work and will affect output levels from the multichannel outs even in source direct mode. It was not clear from the manual whether this was the case. (All my channel levels were left at 0dB in all my testing)
post #4481 of 7479
Quote:
Originally Posted by cwolf View Post



for further investigation:

Why is there a drop in overall output as the bass management redirects signal from 1 bookshelf R surround to 2 floorstanders when, if anything, it would seem the opposite should occur? I would expect the overall system response to be fairly linear until I hit the crossover point and then should get an increase in bass response as signal is redirected from a single bookshelf to two floorstanders.
By adjusting the crossover frequency setting, I should have been able to find a setting where the increase of bass response was not too disproportionately high to the amount of signal being redirected from the small speaker.
This just wasn't the case, more signal was lost from the small speaker than was redirected to the large speakers at any crossover frequency setting from about 1/2 octave above the crossover point until about 1/2 octave below the crossover point.....WHY!? WHY!? WHY!?)

Perhaps your speaker efficiencies are different between your fronts and surrounds causing volume imbalances as the bass management is trying to split the signal.

What material are you using for the frequency sweeps (DVD, DTS, SACD)? I believe the 3910 changes the bass levels depending on the material being played, while using source direct mode.

Also, I don't know that the redirect to the fronts (in absence of a sub) is the way Denon setup the bass management to work. You may be seeing this odd behavior because the system is not designed to work this way. Not sure.

As for your 4 db dips and peaks, this can easily be bass response varying because of acoustical room modes (and maybe some comb filtering-interference between your front and surround). even 10 db variatons in low bass response is not unheard of. Try moving your speakers around and see if it changes.

or perhaps you have found a bug in the 3910 bass management scheme???

DigiPete
post #4482 of 7479
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigiPete View Post

Perhaps your speaker efficiencies are different between your fronts and surrounds causing volume imbalances as the bass management is trying to split the signal.

Yeah, that's why I'd expect that when the more efficient fronts start getting some of the bass signal, if anything, I would see the level begin to increase around the crossover point. I suppose it's possible that if my amp was malfunctioning, I could get a dip in amplifier output at the point I'm sending a split signal to 2 or 3 speaker channels instead of just ouputting 1 active signal to 1 speaker. I know that's not the case though, my amp's not losing signal from any 1 channel when outputting from another. I'd definitely notice that!
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigiPete View Post

What material are you using for the frequency sweeps (DVD, DTS, SACD)? I believe the 3910 changes the bass levels depending on the material being played, while using source direct mode.

I'm using Avia test DVD for low frequency sweeps and my ratshack SPL meter to do the calibration. I'm taking the signal from the 3910 multichannel outs and feeding them to the multi-channel inputs of the 54tx.

For high fidelity listening tests, I'm using both DVDA's and regular CD's including some very high fidelity DVDA recordings from AIX records.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigiPete View Post

Also, I don't know that the redirect to the fronts (in absence of a sub) is the way Denon setup the bass management to work. You may be seeing this odd behavior because the system is not designed to work this way. Not sure.

I'm not sure either. Maybe DENON figured that if somebody cares enough to buy a 3910 to listen to DVD-A's using the multi-channel outs, then they can surely spring for a sub-woofer! So, maybe they just never worried about getting the bass management working really well between small and large channels. Only the small and sub channels. It's too bad if that's the case, becuase it really should work right. If I feed a digital signal into my pioneer 54tx, its bass management between small and large with no sub works very smoothly. It doesn't seem like there should be any reason for the 3910 to not be able to do it well also.
(This was actually one of the reasons for my getting the 3910 in the first place, so I could do multichannel bass management on it since the 54tx doesn't have management for the multichannel inputs or an i-link digital input to use instead)

It would be interesting to try hooking up a sub and seeing if I do get good results with the 3910 between speakers set to small and a sub to verify whether the problem is indeed only between small and large speakers. (If anybody in the SF Bay Area wants to donate a sub to science, I'd be really happy to test this out!)
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigiPete View Post

As for your 4 db dips and peaks, this can easily be bass response varying because of acoustical room modes (and maybe some comb filtering-interference between your front and surround). even 10 db variatons in low bass response is not unheard of. Try moving your speakers around and see it it changes.
DigiPete

Yeah, I'm also thinking these things are a possibility and that I'm just noticing them more with bass management turned on than I am in source direct mode. To really know this, I'll have to do a much more careful plot of system freq response than I did with just watching the SPL meter in real time as the sweep goes by.

I know there is a lot of room stuff going on that I haven't measured. When I do low freq sweeps in source direct mode at ~ 85dB, I can hear and feel the bass waves phasing and reflecting from different strengths and directions as the sweep moves through the lower freqs from about 80Hz - 35Hz.
(Making my whole apartment and the things in it rattle and vibrate is an incredible amount of fun!....I have the good luck of having empty apartments both next door and downstars. I think I'd be very dangerous with a sub! )
post #4483 of 7479
Okay, guys...
I noticed another strange problem last night. Once I got a functioning cable for my DL, I plopped down to listen to some music. I noticed that every time the compressor to my air-conditioner came on or when someone flipped a light switch, the sound cut out. The video feed (DVD-A's) was unaffected, but the audio disappeared for a split second. I watched my 3805's display, and it showed that the incoming audio signal was being cut. Everyone knows from all my bitching that this is my third 3910. Well, none of the others had this problem with my power. Does anyone have any ideas as to what this indicates? What can I do to correct this? I've already got the player connected to an Acoustic Research power conditioner. What else could I do? Is this indicative of another problem with the player? I'm very gun-shy at this point, so please help me out. Thanks.
Rob
post #4484 of 7479
Quote:
Originally Posted by cwolf View Post

I know there is a lot of room stuff going on that I haven't measured. When I do low freq sweeps in source direct mode at ~ 85dB, I can hear and feel the bass waves phasing and reflecting from different strengths and directions as the sweep moves through the lower freqs from about 80Hz - 35Hz.
(Making my whole apartment and the things in it rattle and vibrate is an incredible amount of fun!....I have the good luck of having empty apartments both next door and downstars. I think I'd be very dangerous with a sub! )

I would suggest doing your bass sweeps at lower volume (~75 db or less) so you don't excite as many rattles etc, because those rattles definitely register on the meter, from what I have experienced.
post #4485 of 7479
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burkerg View Post

Okay, guys...
I noticed another strange problem last night. Once I got a functioning cable for my DL, I plopped down to listen to some music. I noticed that every time the compressor to my air-conditioner came on or when someone flipped a light switch, the sound cut out. The video feed (DVD-A's) was unaffected, but the audio disappeared for a split second. I watched my 3805's display, and it showed that the incoming audio signal was being cut. Everyone knows from all my bitching that this is my third 3910. Well, none of the others had this problem with my power. Does anyone have any ideas as to what this indicates? What can I do to correct this? I've already got the player connected to an Acoustic Research power conditioner. What else could I do? Is this indicative of another problem with the player? I'm very gun-shy at this point, so please help me out. Thanks.
Rob

Your power conditioner may be cutting the power to the acessories when it senses low voltage from the wall plug (turning on the A/C), and the 3910 may be sensitive to those temporary interruptions.

Or you may have loose connections in your electrical system (or poor power quality) causing power fluctuations or low voltage.

Plug your 3910 in to another outlet without the power conditioner and see if it helps.
post #4486 of 7479
Quote:


Plug your 3910 in to another outlet without the power conditioner and see if it helps.

Will do. Just seems weird to me that the others didn't do it, you know? Thanks, DigiPete!
post #4487 of 7479
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burkerg View Post

Will do. Just seems weird to me that the others didn't do it, you know? Thanks, DigiPete!

Ahh but were the others communicating using Denon Link?
post #4488 of 7479
Quote:


Ahh but were the others communicating using Denon Link?

Yep... All three. Strange, no?
post #4489 of 7479
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigiPete View Post

Your power conditioner may be cutting the power to the acessories when it senses low voltage from the wall plug (turning on the A/C), and the 3910 may be sensitive to those temporary interruptions.

Or you may have loose connections in your electrical system (or poor power quality) causing power fluctuations or low voltage.

Plug your 3910 in to another outlet without the power conditioner and see if it helps.

If that doesn't work a $600 power cord should fix the problem.

Do you live in an older home, i.e. over 40 years old? You could be pulling too much current with the HT gear and the /ac running causing a voltage drop.
post #4490 of 7479
Quote:


Do you live in an older home, i.e. over 40 years old? You could be pulling too much current with the HT gear and the /ac running causing a voltage drop.

I live in a townhouse that was built in the 70's. I just don't understand why it's only a problem with the audio and not the video...and why I didn't have the problem with the other units. Thanks for your help, guys.

Rob
post #4491 of 7479
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGZ28 View Post

If that doesn't work a $600 power cord should fix the problem.

Do you live in an older home, i.e. over 40 years old? You could be pulling too much current with the HT gear and the /ac running causing a voltage drop.

Possible, but it would have to be a fairly large drop. The power supplies in electronic equipment operate over a wide range of input voltages, sometimes 90 to 130 volts. If the problem does turn out to be a voltage drop I would have suspicions about the robustness of the PS in the 3910.
post #4492 of 7479
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burkerg View Post

Will do. Just seems weird to me that the others didn't do it, you know? Thanks, DigiPete!

Were the 'others' connected via DL3? Try the unit out using another connection. Of course, different equipment reacts differently to power drops too!

Does your power conditioner also correct voltage dips/spikes? That could be yet another investment you'll need to make if power in your apartment fluctuates so. Also, you would likely need something that puts out a pure sine wave.
post #4493 of 7479
Still skipping when plugged directly into the wall. Looks like I'm going for number 4...or giving up. Do you guys think I should give this one last shot? I'm indescribably exasperated. I just don't know what to do to get a functioning player. The thing sounds better than any DVD/CD player I've ever heard, but I can't get one that works properly. What's the deal? I can buy a $100 DVD player at Best Buy that would be much more dependable than this.
post #4494 of 7479
Quote:


Were the 'others' connected via DL3? Try the unit out using another connection. Of course, different equipment reacts differently to power drops too!

Does your power conditioner also correct voltage dips/spikes? That could be yet another investment you'll need to make if power in your apartment fluctuates so. Also, you would likely need something that puts out a pure sine wave.

All connected via DL3. The conditioner corrects dips and spikes.
post #4495 of 7479
Burkerg
Your surge protector brand shows me you know NOTHING!!!
Just kidding!
Maybe the 3805 is the complainant? Maybe it is sucking a lot of juice with new settings?
Do you have a lot of space above it for airflow?
Do you dream about getting the Oppo instead?
post #4496 of 7479
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burkerg View Post

Still skipping when plugged directly into the wall. Looks like I'm going for number 4...or giving up. Do you guys think I should give this one last shot? I'm indescribably exasperated. I just don't know what to do to get a functioning player. The thing sounds better than any DVD/CD player I've ever heard, but I can't get one that works properly. What's the deal? I can buy a $100 DVD player at Best Buy that would be much more dependable than this.

If it works fine with the a/c is off but cuts out when the a/c cuts on then it's definitely being affected by a fluctuation in current/voltage. Do the lights in the house dim briefly when the a/c cuts on? Are there any other appliances that are plugged into the same circuit as your HT gear? If so are they on as well?
post #4497 of 7479
Well...I did just re-initialize my receiver, if that would affect anything. I'm thinking now that it is the receiver. I had my DVD player stopped, and I heard the ice maker in the kitchen come on. As soon as it did, there was an audible pop from my speakers. What should I get to correct this? Thanks, everyone!
Rob

Edit: And at what B&M can I find what I need? Radio Shack, Best Buy, Circuit City? I want to fix this tonight.
post #4498 of 7479
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burkerg View Post

Well...I did just re-initialize my receiver, if that would affect anything. I'm thinking now that it is the receiver. I had my DVD player stopped, and I heard the ice maker in the kitchen come on. As soon as it did, there was an audible pop from my speakers. What should I get to correct this? Thanks, everyone!
Rob

Is the receiver grounded?
post #4499 of 7479
Quote:


Is the receiver grounded?

The surge protector/power conditioner is grounded.
post #4500 of 7479
Put the ice maker and the receiver on different electrical circuits.
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