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**Official** Panasonic X54 series TWEAKS & TROUBLESHOOTING Thread - Page 9

post #241 of 387
greglee - there is a pdf you can download that you could have printed and links to purchase a preprinted grid. It's applicable for any of the 47" panasonic models I believe, but you might want to double check. I thought the service manual also had the dimensions for the grid, but I could be wrong.
post #242 of 387
I have the Panasonic PT-53wx54 53" tv I have had it for like 3 month's maybe and have been messing around in the service menu and about 2 week's ago the tv screwed up.I turned it on one time and then the whole screen was a bright pink and then turned off like some kind of safety thing was activated.I can only turn the tv on again after unplugging and plugging in again but then the same thing happen's the screen just turn's pink and then turn's off and the power light just blink's.Anyone know what could be the problem?
post #243 of 387
I am gona try and take the protective screen off this weekend.

Questions...what does this "Grid Screen" look like? I saw an older version of the 47x54 at wal mart and the screen it had was not protective, looked more like a bumpy egg carton like surface...

Getting dust off before you put the grids back in...best thing to use?

What to use to clean the new grid after old reflector screen moves to rear?
post #244 of 387
Voyager...thanks for the great instructions on removing the protective screen...the results are outstanding...
post #245 of 387
Quote:
Originally Posted by BadMojo11 View Post

Voyager...thanks for the great instructions on removing the protective screen...the results are outstanding...


Hi Badmojo or Voyager...

I have searched on the AVS forum but was unable to locate the instructions for removing the protective screen. Would you please provide a link or URL for that. Also, if you know, does the 53TW54 have a removable protective screen? I assume it does and if I get the instructions will attempt to remove it...but if someone knows otherwise you could perhaps save me the trouble :-)

Thanks
RawFoodGuy
post #246 of 387
Quote:
Originally Posted by RawfoodGuy View Post

Hi Badmojo or Voyager...

I have searched on the AVS forum but was unable to locate the instructions for removing the protective screen. Would you please provide a link or URL for that. Also, if you know, does the 53TW54 have a removable protective screen? I assume it does and if I get the instructions will attempt to remove it...but if someone knows otherwise you could perhaps save me the trouble :-)

Thanks
RawFoodGuy

Removing the screen

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I decided to have a go at removing the protective screen on the 47x54 and I'm very pleased with the results. There's basically no glare whatsoever now, and the picture is more vibrant (more like a direct view set).

It's actually fairly simple to do, but time-consuming. The hardest part is removing all the screws. Here are my steps if anyone else wants to try it. Although, use at your own risk.. And anyone who's done it, feel free to correct anything I missed.

1] Remove the top shelf (two screws at the back)
2] Remove two screws at the very bottom of, kind of underneath, the set (need to get down on the floor to see them)
3] Dark Grey grille at the bottom should now come off, remove it
4a] Now, you need to remove the rest of the plastic bottom part. Remove the 3 screws that were previously hidden by the dark grey grille (they're near the bottom)
4b] Remove the screws holding in the particle board attached to the plastic bottom, and this will uncover a third screw underneath the particle board which you need to remove.
5] Remove the screws along the left and right sides of the bottom. Should be three on each side (need to look from the back of the set to see them).
6] Now the light grey plastic bottom should completely come off

7] Now you've exposed the screws holding on the bottom of the screen. Remove those screws (5 or 6 I believe)
8] Remove the screws along the left and right sides of the screen (look from the back) and also the screws holding the top of the screen (two were previously covered by the shelf)

9] Now the screen should pull off (forward), but don't pull it off too far, just enough so that you can set it upright on the ground in front of the TV.
10] There are three sets of wires connected to the screen. There are three white plastic clips that act as "extension cords". Disconnect each of the three (they're easy to re-connect as they're all different sizes).
11] Now set the screen, glass side down on the ground.
12] Remove all the screws around the border of the screen (including those holding on plastic parts and sensors)
13] Now you should be able to lift up the border of the screen and slide out the center part which contains the protective screen (or alternatively, just lift off the border... not sure why I didn't think of that before...)

14] Now, you need to lift out the three layers of the screen which are attached together with tape. They may be stuck to the top of the plastic "container" they're in , but you should be able to pull them out with a bit of effort
15] Now you'll see there's the protective screen, a thin grid-like screen, and a plastic back (in that order)
16] Take the protective screen off the front of the three, and put it at the back so it's against the plastic back. Now the grid-like screen should be at the front. Make sure all the screens are still facing the same direction (i.e. front is facing front still)
17] Place all three screens back in the container they were in (make sure there's no dust in between the three layers beforehand)
18] Slide the container back underneath the border so that the border is back around the edges again (again, alternatively, just set the border back on top )
19] Put all the screws back in
post #247 of 387
I would like to add what someone else has said...there were many screwholes that were not used on the frame...might be a good idea to get more and fill all the holes...
post #248 of 387
Thanks! That was fast.

For BadMojo...in my search looking for the instructions I found a thread wehre someone mentioned the extra holes...and according to them getting screws to put in them removed a lot of distortion, so that is definately a good idea! It helps hold the screen much flatter.

RFG
post #249 of 387
I'm seriously considering the purchase of a 47X54 and have been playing with one at a friend's house. One of my hangups is how 4:3 is presented, as I still watch a fair amount of 4:3.

In viewing the "JUST" mode, I can see why many find it acceptable. It retains all of the image and does minimize the horizontal stretch in the center of the image, however I still find it annoying on some material.

The "FULL" mode is less desirable as it applies a constant horizontal stretch, taking what is a 30.7" wide 4:3 image and stretches it to 41" wide (which JUST does too), while retaining the 23" height of the image. I can't watch this.

The "ZOOM" mode appears to take the 30.7" x 23" image and expand it to a virtual 41" x 30.7" image, and then cuts off about 3.5" off the top and bottom, given you a 41x23 window into that image, while retaining the OAR image relationship.

What I found was that the Panasonic allows one to modify the ZOOM settings, both the vertical expansion of the image and the vertical positioning - i.e. the placement of the "window" into your virtual expanded image.

Their are 5 settings for the ZOOM mode, denoted as the "Size" parameter in the ZOOM ADJ menu, ranging from 0 to 4. A setting of 0 appears to set vertical expansion to 0, expanding the image only along the horizontal axis. Thus it is equivalent to "FULL," which does the same. thing.

By tinkering with these settings, I found that I could produce a 4:3 mode that I find preferable to "JUST" for some material. Setting the Size parameter to 2 tells the set to expand the vertical height by about half of the default zoom (Size=4). This creates a virtual image of approximately 41"x27", with an aspect ratio of just a bit over 1.5:1. You could regard this as 3:2 or 4.5:3. The image is stretched but not nearly so much as what you see in FULL. To my eyes, it is uniformly stretched a bit less than even the center of the screen is in JUST. It does not alter the image all that much from watching it in 4:3.

But now we have about 4" of the virtual image that cannot be displayed on the screen. The vertical settings parameter can then be used to move our displayed window around within that image. It can be set from -8 to +8. The default setting is 0, which cuts off an equal amount of the top and bottom of the image. By setting it to its lower end, at -6 to -8, the viewing window moves toward the top of the image. That is, it cuts off more of the bottom of the image. A -8 cuts off just over 3" from the bottom, and only a half-inch or so from the top.

Many shows do not have much content along the bottom edge of the screen. It might not be optimal for watching a soccer game, but for standard fare, loping off the bottom 10%-12% of the image doesn't make much of an impact. On a movie I was watching last night, which mainly consisted of people talking to each other, there was essentially no loss of key information, and having the people's faces be only slightly altered from their OAR, was nice. Faces looked more natural than when using JUST and much better than FULL.

It is an interesting trade-off to make and it is very nice that Panasonic enables us with this degree of control. You can set Size to 1 for a minor expansion and then cut off just a bit of the bottom with the vertical positioning. Even this minor adjustment produces an image that I find superior to the FULL mode. With 5 Size settings and 17 vertical position settings, that's 85 different combinations that one can play with to see if they find something that works for them.
post #250 of 387
Didn't know about that, thanks for the heads up.
post #251 of 387
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom_Bombadil View Post

I'm seriously considering the purchase of a 47X54 and have been playing with one at a friend's house. One of my hangups is how 4:3 is presented, as I still watch a fair amount of 4:3.

In viewing the "JUST" mode, I can see why many find it acceptable. It retains all of the image and does minimize the horizontal stretch in the center of the image, however I still find it annoying on some material.

The "FULL" mode is less desirable as it applies a constant horizontal stretch, taking what is a 30.7" wide 4:3 image and stretches it to 41" wide (which JUST does too), while retaining the 23" height of the image. I can't watch this.

The "ZOOM" mode appears to take the 30.7" x 23" image and expand it to a virtual 41" x 30.7" image, and then cuts off about 3.5" off the top and bottom, given you a 41x23 window into that image, while retaining the OAR image relationship.

What I found was that the Panasonic allows one to modify the ZOOM settings, both the vertical expansion of the image and the vertical positioning - i.e. the placement of the "window" into your virtual expanded image.

Their are 5 settings for the ZOOM mode, denoted as the "Size" parameter in the ZOOM ADJ menu, ranging from 0 to 4. A setting of 0 appears to set vertical expansion to 0, expanding the image only along the horizontal axis. Thus it is equivalent to "FULL," which does the same. thing.

By tinkering with these settings, I found that I could produce a 4:3 mode that I find preferable to "JUST" for some material. Setting the Size parameter to 2 tells the set to expand the vertical height by about half of the default zoom (Size=4). This creates a virtual image of approximately 41"x27", with an aspect ratio of just a bit over 1.5:1. You could regard this as 3:2 or 4.5:3. The image is stretched but not nearly so much as what you see in FULL. To my eyes, it is uniformly stretched a bit less than even the center of the screen is in JUST. It does not alter the image all that much from watching it in 4:3.

But now we have about 4" of the virtual image that cannot be displayed on the screen. The vertical settings parameter can then be used to move our displayed window around within that image. It can be set from -8 to +8. The default setting is 0, which cuts off an equal amount of the top and bottom of the image. By setting it to its lower end, at -6 to -8, the viewing window moves toward the top of the image. That is, it cuts off more of the bottom of the image. A -8 cuts off just over 3" from the bottom, and only a half-inch or so from the top.

Many shows do not have much content along the bottom edge of the screen. It might not be optimal for watching a soccer game, but for standard fare, loping off the bottom 10%-12% of the image doesn't make much of an impact. On a movie I was watching last night, which mainly consisted of people talking to each other, there was essentially no loss of key information, and having the people's faces be only slightly altered from their OAR, was nice. Faces looked more natural than when using JUST and much better than FULL.

It is an interesting trade-off to make and it is very nice that Panasonic enables us with this degree of control. You can set Size to 1 for a minor expansion and then cut off just a bit of the bottom with the vertical positioning. Even this minor adjustment produces an image that I find superior to the FULL mode. With 5 Size settings and 17 vertical position settings, that's 85 different combinations that one can play with to see if they find something that works for them.

Now that is interesting!
Is this something in the service menu area?
post #252 of 387
It is in the standard user menu. You have to put the TV into ZOOM mode, go into the menu, parse over to SETUP, then down to Zoom Adj and hit the right arrow key on the remote.
post #253 of 387
Thanks Tom!!!

I tried it last night and agree that the picture is much improved over the "J us t" and "s t r e t c h" mode

It's also nice with the harmony remote bc the Panny has a discrete Zoom code but not a discrete JUST code.

Have you tried taking the screen protector off..... a great improvement if you watch tv during the day or are annoyed with reflections from the screen.

Regards.
post #254 of 387
The Zoom settings certainly allow for a lot of personal preference. While I do like the Size=2 setting, I keep playing around with a number of different V-Position settings. If someone is looking for a place to start, I'd suggest Size=2 and V-Position set to -4, then go from there. Then compare JUST & FULL to this ZOOM setting and see which one you like. Images look noticably less squished to me in this custom setting than either JUST or FULL, but you do lose a bit off both the top and bottom of the image and that can be annoying at times.

Too bad you can't apply these same settings to the JUST mode, as that would be the best of both worlds.
post #255 of 387
The only thing I am worried about about taking the screen protector is the dust factor.

Does it still seem easy to clean dust off, and does it seem like it can catch dust easier (the screen)
post #256 of 387
Quote:
Originally Posted by ventro View Post

The only thing I am worried about about taking the screen protector is the dust factor.

Does it still seem easy to clean dust off, and does it seem like it can catch dust easier (the screen)

Doesn't seem to catch dust easier than with the protector on. I have a can of compressed air that you can buy at your local office supplies shop that I clean the dust off of the screen with. (Have only done this once in the past 3 months.... but I did it just 'because'- not that it really needed it.)

Works like a charm.

I bet if you were to take a look at your screen protector right now there would be minute amounts of dust on it. Same thing with the protector removed. No big deal at all.
HTH.
post #257 of 387
Hi again...like I said before I removed the protective screen and have enjoyed the results...

However....

I notice that the grid screen has a slight wave in it...I have a feeling I did not put the screen/backing/protective screen combo back together as well as I should. Before there was tape holding the 3 together, but I did not put more tape on and I forgot 2 of the screws as well....

For those of you who did this did you put more tape/more screws to ensure as flat a surface as possible?
post #258 of 387
BadMojo11,
Remembered this one, hope it helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by outtacash View Post

There are only 10 (approx) screws holding the screen to the frame... which results in slight bowing at the attachment points. HOWEVER there are mounting holes for another 25ish screws already drilled... just not used by panny when assembling (cost savings).

Screwing in the rest of these holes and all torqued the same with your drill will give you a much more even surface that should help with some of the finer adjustments that everyone here are trying to make.

The screws to use are the same ones that are all around the outside of the set. Just unscrew one, go to the hardware store, get a couple of dozen more and you should have some left over.

Anyone have an isf calibration done yet... ???

Regards.
post #259 of 387
I found that the residue of the tape was enough to hold it fine again, so I did not put new tape on... just used the old stuff. I also put extra screws in all the holes to clamp it down nicely with all the screws torqued the same with my drill.

If I were you, I would remount the screen, tape it, and grab extra screws while you're at it. For the number of hours that you're going to look at it, it is time well spent.

After that, I would redo the convergence in the Service menu.... then you can be satisfied that you have done everything that you're capable of for this set.

Viewing sure is nice with the screen protector off...
post #260 of 387
Thanks a lot guys
post #261 of 387
How long does it take to remove the protective screen and reinstall? Thinking about biting the bullet on this one. Took me four months to work up the nerve to doe a service menu convergence and I may be ready to remove the screen. Also, any idea what size screws are used to hold the screen on? I wold like to get them ahead of time when I do this.
post #262 of 387
The process took about an hour, with my sons help. May be longer if you don't have a helper (and probably much more nerve wracking)....

I am taking one of the screws I forgot to put back in and getting about 30 more at the hardware store...according to others the ones on the outside frame of the TV are the same size as the ones on the frame holding the screens...
post #263 of 387
Ok fellas, my 2 & 4 years old angels did a number on the screen and now it has a few visible scratches on it. I called Panasonic and order a replacement screen since now the conversion of my garage to theater room is complete (no kids & women allowed ala Al Bundy ). I should be able to replace the screen by following the removal steps posted here - correct? Has anyone removed the screen and then decided to just put it back?
post #264 of 387
ca1avera,

I don't see any problem that you would have by following the steps listed above. If anything it will be a bit easier because you don't have to change the order of the screens.

Be sure that you don't get dust inbetween the screens when you do the do.

You'll be fine.
post #265 of 387
FYI...

the screws from the outside of the set are NOT the same as the ones in the inner frame (at least on the 53x54)
post #266 of 387
Once the screen comes in I will give it a shot. Thanks.
post #267 of 387
Hi all. I'm new to the forums here. I just got myself a Panasonic 47X54, and overall, I think the picture is fantastic. However, I do have one small problem, and I was wondering if someone could possibly give this a quick diagnosis?

Convergence seems to be fine right out of the box, but when viewing both cable AND DVD images, I notice some very faint horizontal bands that span the entire width of the screen(top to bottom), slowly moving downward.

These "ghost" bands are most noticeable when the screen goes all black, or any dark, solid color. Having examined store demonstrators meticulously, I never saw anything like this; only on my set.

Essentially, is this normal? If not, is it something that I might be overlooking, or should I simply contact the vendor about this issue? The TV was delivered less than 36 hours ago.

Thanks in advance.
post #268 of 387
I've only seen this occasionally during a black transition between scenes while watching TV, DirecTV, on the S-video input. Then the bands are very broad, about a third of the screen and roll very slowly. I have not observed it while watching DVD's, using either the s-video, component, or HDMI inputs. When using the full black image on the DVE disk I see no banding. For me I always assumed the banding was caused by DirecTV or the broadcaster. I know this doesn't point to any solution but your banding doesn't appear to be normal.

If your not using the HDMI input, you want to try swapping out you interconnect cables and see if that helps.
post #269 of 387
Hi Moxie.

Yup, at first I thought it might be the cables, so I tried swapping them, but no change. The bands are there whether I watch cable broadcast, DVD, or feed from a VCR. The bands themselves are actually quite thin, and there must be about 40 or so at the screen at one time; all evenly-spaced, and very faint.

I'm wondering if maybe I might have a defective capacitor or something?
post #270 of 387
captain_america:

I have it too.
I actually first noticed it watching a widescreen DVD (I saw it in the black bars.) Mine scroll downwards as well, only they seem to be slightly angled towards the left. As you mentioned I also notice it on solid backgrounds, but especially white or black. I'm not aware of any fixes???
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