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Whole House Wiring  

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
I am going with a Kustom System KH6640 Audio Distribution System which only requires a Cat 5 cable to be run to the Controllers and then the speakers get wired directly from the main unit. It would be simple to wire exactly like that but I don't want to be obsolete in 5 years down the road. Should I run coax to the controller boxes also? Is it smart tp run dual coax and cat 5 cable? And is there any reason I should run the speaker wire through the controller boxes?

One final question, where is a good source to buy cable?
post #2 of 19
We'll I'm installing the Russound 6x4 system in my house. I can't comment on your primary questions, but I can suggest Dalco Electronics for your cable needs. About the cheapest and most reliable I can find for cat 5 and some other bulk cables.


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Joe C
MY HT/Gameroom
post #3 of 19
I too am installing the Russound 6.4 system. I am building a new home and have researched your questions myself. I have chosen to run 16/2 from each speaker to the keypad and then 16/4 from the keypad to the amp. This will allow me to have fewer runs to the headend and will allow me to remove my russound system should I sell the house. The house can then be advertised as pre-wired for whole house audio. I can replace my Speakercraft in-ceiling speakers with low-end speakers or just blank speaker plates. This will allow the next owner or myself to install basic volume controls and IR passthrough. I am running dual RG6 quad cable and 1 CAT5e cable to each TV outlet. The dual runs will allow you to modulate your equipment or in my case provide two feeds for my dual tuner Tivo ( When they activate the second tuner). The Cat 5 will be used as a phone outlet for DirecTV. I thought I read that running coax to the keypad location would be good for high end keypads that support video or some sort of LCD display. I myself will never get into it that heavy or should I say that costly. I can also offer my findings on days of web surfing for cable. Here is the link where I bought mine http://www.tselectronic.com/cata_index.html They had great prices and a great selection. They do not charge allot for shipping either. I ordered mine online and they sent me an e-mail with an order number. I then called for a tracking number and they provided me one with no problem. Hope this helps some.
post #4 of 19
If you are running Cat5, take a look at the Audioaccess solution.
post #5 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally posted by Pete:
If you are running Cat5, take a look at the Audioaccess solution.
From the Home Theater Article on their site: "To program the PX-600 with the infrared codes for your source devices, your installer uses a special programmer that attaches to a concealed connector on the side of the PX-600."

It looks like a nice system, but this is a DIY project and I don't want to have to use "special programmer" by my installer. Otherwise, it looks like a user-friendly once set up.
post #6 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally posted by ntserv:
I have chosen to run 16/2 from each speaker to the keypad and then 16/4 from the keypad to the amp. This will allow me to have fewer runs to the headend and will allow me to remove my russound system should I sell the house. The house can then be advertised as pre-wired for whole house audio. I can replace my Speakercraft in-ceiling speakers with low-end speakers or just blank speaker plates. This will allow the next owner or myself to install basic volume controls and IR passthrough. I am running dual RG6 quad cable and 1 CAT5e cable to each TV outlet. The dual runs will allow you to modulate your equipment or in my case provide two feeds for my dual tuner Tivo ( When they activate the second tuner).

Thanks for the input. I might do the same.
post #7 of 19
PX 600 has been eclipsed by the PX700 which does not require a programmer. It is programmed via PC.
post #8 of 19
Thread Starter 
Pete, how much does the Audioaccess setup run? I can't find a price anywhere on the net. I can get the Kustom controller/amp and 6 keypads for aboutr $1500.
post #9 of 19
NTSERV:
For the Russound system that you are installing, How are you going to wire those keypads?
From the instructions I was giving, it looks like homerun cat5 is required for each keypad, That is at least what I am doing.
I noticed you did not include that for your keypads?


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Joe C
MY HT/Gameroom
post #10 of 19
cmcjo, I am running Cat5e to the keypad locations I just forgot to mention it. I guess I focused on Jonmx last statement asking if he should run speaker wire through the controller boxes. Thanks for pointing that out, I would hate to be holding my keypad in my hand staring at the jbox after we move in thinking "You got to be kidding me"
post #11 of 19
Hi... If I may make a suggestion.
Instead of runing your wires into and through a j-box,
Use plaster rings screwed directly to the wall studs.
The wires will be much easier to deal with later on.
post #12 of 19
Quote:
Originally posted by Matthew:
Hi... If I may make a suggestion.
Instead of runing your wires into and through a j-box,
Use plaster rings screwed directly to the wall studs.
The wires will be much easier to deal with later on.
This is a good suggestion and one that I was considering. The electricians have their cables run through the top of the jbox and out the bottom with a loose staple keeping the end of the wire centered on the stud. After the sheet rock is up they just reach in and pull the cable up through the bottom and out of the jbox. I was just following their lead. I can see where it will be easier to cram all the wiring back into the wall space verse the jbox. I just have to see how I can secure the wires so the sheet rockers to mess them up.
post #13 of 19
the guys who just wired my house used a thin piece of cardboard stapled two the two studs and brought the wires out in the middle the carbaord posed no problem for the sheetrockers amd they then coiled all the wire and left it for the company to come back and terminate. btw even the wire installers were laughing at the amount of wire i put in. wife making me work overtime to pay for it. i put 2 cat5e 2 quad shield rg6 and two dual mode fiber at every computer and tv location(plus some extra cat5e) I placed CRESTNET cat5e canare and lutron wire at all control locations so if norad needs to relocate they should give me a buz
post #14 of 19
I sure hope you find use for that Fiber Optic cablehttp://www.avsforum.com/ubb/smile.gif

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Joe C
MY HT/Gameroom
post #15 of 19
Quote:
Originally posted by rfinn:
the guys who just wired my house used a thin piece of cardboard stapled two the two studs and brought the wires out in the middle the carbaord posed no problem for the sheetrockers amd they then coiled all the wire and left it for the company to come back and terminate. btw even the wire installers were laughing at the amount of wire i put in. wife making me work overtime to pay for it. i put 2 cat5e 2 quad shield rg6 and two dual mode fiber at every computer and tv location(plus some extra cat5e) I placed CRESTNET cat5e canare and lutron wire at all control locations so if norad needs to relocate they should give me a buz

I seen the cardboard trick on HGTV Home Theaters. It works well. Did you pay a company to run all that wire? With the prices my builder wanted, you would need more than OT to pay for it, you would need GOLD BARS!

Smart move wiring your house to the max.
post #16 of 19
i got a great price the company did the whole job for a little over 8k they will charge time for termination so i expect another 2k or so
post #17 of 19
Jonmx_ By running 16/4 or 14/4 to the control location from the the source equipment, and then using 16/2 or 14/2 to the speaker locations, you can be prepared for some other systems should you decide to change. I would also add a CAT5 cable from the source equipment to the control location, it certainly is cheap enough ($50/1000'). By running conduit to the source location from the control spot, you will have a future-proof house for sure. There are many different systems and cable requirements. Try to analyze as many that you can and come up with a compromise.
post #18 of 19
[quote]Originally posted by ntserv:
[b] This is a good suggestion and one that I was considering. The electricians have their cables run through the top of the jbox and out the bottom with a loose staple keeping the end of the wire centered on the stud. After the sheet rock is up they just reach in and pull the cable up through the bottom and out of the jbox. I was just following their lead. I can see where it will be easier to cram all the wiring back into the wall space verse the jbox. I just have to see how I can secure the wires so the sheet rockers to mess them up.


Don't think I've ever seen electricians NOT have thier wires
secured and in the boxes. Will the pass inspection?

As for rock prep, I've found this works well...
For multiple wires: Cut the excess slack, leaving one wire a few inches longer then the rest. Wrap the set with elec. tape every ten inches or so. This will give you a tight loom and the wires will stay together. Strip the wire at the end of the loom so that you can feed one conductor(or a C-5 Pair) through the screw hole of the mud ring and twist them together. This will keep the wires in reach. Then, with your T-25, staple the loom (only one of the wires) down the stud.
Use 3/8 or 7/16 staples. The short staples will hold the loom in place, but will pull out easily when you tug on them. Test a couple as you go.
Do the same thing for a single C-5. Try 3/8 stalpes.

Hope this helps.
post #19 of 19
[quote]Originally posted by Matthew:
[b]
Quote:
Originally posted by ntserv:
This is a good suggestion and one that I was considering. The electricians have their cables run through the top of the jbox and out the bottom with a loose staple keeping the end of the wire centered on the stud. After the sheet rock is up they just reach in and pull the cable up through the bottom and out of the jbox. I was just following their lead. I can see where it will be easier to cram all the wiring back into the wall space verse the jbox. I just have to see how I can secure the wires so the sheet rockers to mess them up.


Don't think I've ever seen electricians NOT have thier wires
secured and in the boxes. Will the pass inspection?

As for rock prep, I've found this works well...
For multiple wires: Cut the excess slack, leaving one wire a few inches longer then the rest. Wrap the set with elec. tape every ten inches or so. This will give you a tight loom and the wires will stay together. Strip the wire at the end of the loom so that you can feed one conductor(or a C-5 Pair) through the screw hole of the mud ring and twist them together. This will keep the wires in reach. Then, with your T-25, staple the loom (only one of the wires) down the stud.
Use 3/8 or 7/16 staples. The short staples will hold the loom in place, but will pull out easily when you tug on them. Test a couple as you go.
Do the same thing for a single C-5. Try 3/8 stalpes.

Hope this helps.


I think you idea is worthy of a test run! Thanks for the input.
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