Originally posted by Jeremy Anderson
What you're looking for on DVE is CLIPPING. In other words, you want white to remain white without the upper IRE levels starting to look the same. The segments of DVE's grayscale pattern that has dots above and below represents 0 and 100 IRE. DVE includes information ABOVE 100 IRE so that you can observe where 100 IRE and the step above it appear to be the same color. You want to raise it until they look identical, then back it down until you can see a difference between 100 IRE and the step above it. Then, you need to recheck brightness.
I need a bit of help with using DVE as well for adjusting brightness and contrast. The rest is all fine because I bought the projector from cine4home guys and they did all the other stuff (colour, tint bla bla) for me.
According to my understanding the PLUGE pattern test are for the CRT displays as "blooming" is a phenomenon only relevant for the CRT world. For the LCD projectors they recommend to use the "REVERSE GRAY RAMP" which is title 12 chapter 14 and has dots above and below that. The way the ask to set is that get the contrast in the middle (which is 0 for Z3) and move the brightness down till the blackest box (extreme left on the lower bar and extreme right on the upper bar) disappears and than back off a little bit till it reappears. Once you set the brightness right increase the contrast till the whitest box disappears and than back off a little. This exercise is to be repeated between brightness and contrast till the both the blackest and the whitest boxes are BOTH barely visible. I did that and ended up with a brightness of -6 and contrast of +18. BTW I was using low lamp mode with these settings.
Now the problem is that with these settings some movies i.e. topgun looked pretty good but on the other hand "Man on fire" looked like crap (a part of Denzel Washington's face would literally disappear in darker scenes). Ok I backed off a little bit during that movie and contacted cine4home the next day. They said that these things are normal as most of the movies are not mastered very well and therefore you can't have a setting which would work for every movie.
Now my questions are:
1. Am I setting the brightness/contrast in the right way?
2. If the statement from cine4home is true how do you guys keep one setting for all moves and be happy with it?
3. What could be a couple of movies with good mastering that can be used as reference once you have done the calibration?
Thanks in advance for any help extended as I am really in need of it.