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Calling all Marquee Geometry Guru's!! - Page 3  

post #61 of 68
Actually, 16:9 is the optimum COMPROMISE, because as I mentioned earlier,
if you were to take sample screens of all aspect ratios in use and normalize
them so they had the same area as each other, they all fit neatly in a 16:9 box.

The problem is that few people would know how to normalize their settings so
that each aspect ratio was actually displayed as equal area, or if they did, they
still wouldn't do it that way. They'll just maximize the size of each given AR
until it hits the top or side edges of the display device, if they can.

CZ Eddie is right....let's take this to another topic.

post #62 of 68
Thread Starter 
Originally posted by cmjohnson

CZ Eddie is right....let's take this to another thread.

I've got just the perfect one for the size debate.


There is a TON of good info in there. Consider it Part I of this thread topic as it questioned the purpose of going 2.35 and whether it was possible.

The next thread below discusses the different ways to go 2.35 and how to get it working with different inputs. Consider it Part II of this thread topic.



Most of the other cool 2.35 threads are in the archives and I don't have them linked to my favorites here.
post #63 of 68
I've been giving some thought to what you're trying to do, and reviewing the other threads.

I presume your primary source is DVD?

If so, you need to set your projector up with the 16:9 anamorphic mod
and set your active screen area to 16:9.

This is because 2.35:1 media is LETTERBOXED inside the 16:9 anamorphic
presentation. The black bars on top and on bottom that make up the
difference between the 2.35:1 program material and the 16:9 active area are
actually encoded into the DVD.

You'll have to set up your projector for 16:9 and overscan your screen
vertically. As the overscanned area will have no content, being the black bar
area, this won't be noticeable to you as long as you're playing only 2.35:1,
anamorphically recorded material.

That's your simple answer. If you try to set up the projector so that the
active area is 2.35:1, you will end up with a squashed movie when you hit
the play button.

The situation would be different if DVDs were encoded with multiple
anamorphic ratios, but they're not. There's only one, 16:9, and after that,
formatting is done with encoded letterboxing.

That's that. I'm afraid you're going to HAVE to accept a modified 16:9 setup.

post #64 of 68
Thread Starter 
Originally posted by cmjohnson

That's that. I'm afraid you're going to HAVE to accept a modified 16:9 setup.

Guess you have some catching up to do. Are you here to help or just throw your opinion around?
post #65 of 68
Really, trying to help now.

What alternative do you have when the source itself is encoded at 16:9?

None that I can think of, at least if using conventional equipment.

The original idea, to set up the projector as 2.35:1 "native" (despite the fact
that the only true "native" format is the format of the CRTs themselves), runs
into this simple problem. The source isn't encoded at 2.35:1, it's encoded
at 16:9 and letterboxed to 2.35:1 visually.

The SOURCE is your big stumbling block. It ALWAYS comes back to that. If
your projected format isn't matched to the source format, geometric distortion
is a given.

I'm interested in hearing how you propose to get around this mountain that
stands in your way.

I suppose that there are various ways to stretch out the source vertically with
the right software in an HTPC, and then send it on to a projector that's set
up in 2.35:1, but I don't see how that's going to improve anything. And it's
fair to mention that I don't really think in terms of HTPCs and software
manipulation of the imagery as I don't use such a setup. I use conventional
components in a conventional home theater. I have a PC that I have used
experimentally in an HTPC application, but I haven't plugged that in for at
least six months as I found the setup was not at all convenient for my
particular system and the way I have it set up. Its performance was no
improvement, either, so why bother?

Maybe software solutions can give you what you want, but I don't see that
extra processing is necessarily a good thing. I like to keep things simple,
and to me, that means leaving computers out of the equation as much as is
possible. I'm funny about things like that.

post #66 of 68
Thread Starter 
CJ, read the threads. I'd like to explain to you whats been done already but my dinner is ready and I'm about to watch a 2.35 movie on a 2.35 screen with a 2.35 raster and a 1280x720 resolution. My zoomplayer is going to fit the 2.35 movie perfectly on my screen without any black bars and it's going to look pretty damn good as well as proportionate.
I use an HTPC.

There is no such thing as native 2.35. Where did you get that idea from?
post #67 of 68
Thread Starter 
Btw, I just walked into the dining room and saw my roomates watching monday night football on the Sanyo Z1. The poor machine sounds like a hair dryer on full blast, probably due to the house heater being turned on. I'm glad it's quiet in my area (and I say this with my Electrohome above my head). lol
post #68 of 68
Originally posted by cmjohnson
trying to help now.
I thought the discussion on which raster size was best was on the other thread. This thread is for helping Eddie achieve what he has already decided to do.

Eddie must feel like this (CJ on top; Eddie on bottom) http://www.click-smilies.de/sammlung...smiley-060.gif
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