Quote:
Originally Posted by smintn 
If you checked with all things plugged in I believe dogleg69 was right the power supply sounds bad.......
These are the voltages you should read on the 2010/2020 they are approximate
These are dc voltages, make sure your meter is on the dc setting where it can read at least 35volts dc (settings vary with make and model of meter)
3.3v = 3.3v
5v = 4.9v
12v = 12.2v
30v = 31.2v have seen as high as 33v
these readings can be taken on the power connector (wire side) on the motherboard (3.3v,5v,12v) one lead(black -) on gnd the other lead (red +) on the voltage line you are trying to read
The 30v readings can be taken on power connector (wire side) on tuner assembly one lead(black -) on gnd the other lead (red +) on the voltage line you are trying to read
The readings for ac input can be taken across the black and white wires coming in from the plug, slightly lift the ac in connector tp power supply just enough to take a reading be careful ac will arc and scare the hell out of you plus it can weld meter leads and trip a main breaker.
Also set the meter to read ohms (resistance) (with power cord unplugged) take a reading across the fuse it should read zero ohms (resistance)
-dogleg69
after all this time (someone else probably already noticed) I think I found the real difference between the 2010 and 2020 units-
On my 2010 units on the motherboard there is a mod that has been made in the N102 (AZ1084S 5amp low dropout linear regulator) area resistor r510 has been added (discrete component) and tied to an unlabeled resistor going to a cut leg on the N201 and then tied back
Now on the 2020 units in this same area there are surface mounted parts and that multi pin connector pad area is orientated differently (a respun board) this would be a reason to distinguish between the motherboards by having different hardware numbers in the system info.

If you checked with all things plugged in I believe dogleg69 was right the power supply sounds bad.......
These are the voltages you should read on the 2010/2020 they are approximate
These are dc voltages, make sure your meter is on the dc setting where it can read at least 35volts dc (settings vary with make and model of meter)
3.3v = 3.3v
5v = 4.9v
12v = 12.2v
30v = 31.2v have seen as high as 33v
these readings can be taken on the power connector (wire side) on the motherboard (3.3v,5v,12v) one lead(black -) on gnd the other lead (red +) on the voltage line you are trying to read
The 30v readings can be taken on power connector (wire side) on tuner assembly one lead(black -) on gnd the other lead (red +) on the voltage line you are trying to read
The readings for ac input can be taken across the black and white wires coming in from the plug, slightly lift the ac in connector tp power supply just enough to take a reading be careful ac will arc and scare the hell out of you plus it can weld meter leads and trip a main breaker.
Also set the meter to read ohms (resistance) (with power cord unplugged) take a reading across the fuse it should read zero ohms (resistance)
-dogleg69
after all this time (someone else probably already noticed) I think I found the real difference between the 2010 and 2020 units-
On my 2010 units on the motherboard there is a mod that has been made in the N102 (AZ1084S 5amp low dropout linear regulator) area resistor r510 has been added (discrete component) and tied to an unlabeled resistor going to a cut leg on the N201 and then tied back
Now on the 2020 units in this same area there are surface mounted parts and that multi pin connector pad area is orientated differently (a respun board) this would be a reason to distinguish between the motherboards by having different hardware numbers in the system info.
You know what? Me being a newb shines through on this here - I was testing with AC! And yes, I did test the black and white on AC, and yes it arced and scared the hell outta me (my cat sitting there was indifferent however!), but it did not weld my leads and throw a main breaker, so that was lucky. I will test using DC and see what I get. As far as ground, I was just using the case itself - it seemed to be working, is that good enough for a ground?
Mike















