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HLPXX63W Owners Thread/Problems/Tweaks/Service Menu/Discretes etc. - Page 38

post #1111 of 1116
Hey folks, I've been reading this forum since I got this TV second hand back in 2008. I read about how to replace my color wheel, and it went without a hitch. I've had a great time using it for years.
post #1112 of 1116
Thats was my quick thank you post. I wanted to make it all one post, but tapped reply on accident. Now for the new development!

I was watching Almost Human via HDMI from my cable box (Comcast X-1) when the picture went away. A few seconds later the tv shut off, and seemed to flash both Timer and Lamp over and over. I dont think that Standby/Temp was actually lit. If I pressed the power button while it was in this state, the tv would boot back up. Wash. Rinse. Repeat.

I checked the lamp (original, many, many hours), ballast board, fans and heat sinks. Reseated lamp and ballast. Checked internal temp and interlock switches. Finally I decided to probe the logic lines leading to the ballast control board. And this is where the (other) problem started.

I had no O-scope to probe with, so I grabbed my DMM and a fine piece of wire. I grounded myself to the chassis and began to probe the black control line. I was reading a non-zero voltage, but was unsure that it was the set, so I tweaked my meters select knob a bit. Immediately after that I touched my free test lead to the output side of the 180 ohm brown grey brown gold resistor. This seemed to just take it to ground thought the meter. The arc flashed to my teat lead, and the ballast was kaput, or so I thought.

I metered the power supply output to the ballast board again, and it was about 335 volts. I was certain I'd ruined something on the ballast board somehow, and I was right! The 180 ohm resistor off of the positive power supply terminal was open! I had one sitting downstairs in my parts kit, so I slipped it in place of the open one, and viola! Tv has been running for hours since!

My only conclusion is that by taking the 300 volt rail to ground tickled something inside the TV and that it all just sort of 'worked out'. Worst repair accident I've ever had, with the best result I can never explain. Not that I am advocating you ground a 300 volt rail through your DMM, but it "worked" for me. Honestly I am a little ashamed to post this sort of a fluke, but I've gotten plenty of help here in the past. Just wanted to add my information to the pool!

Cheers, Daniel
post #1113 of 1116
I amlost forgot, caveats: if you pull the ballast, you may need to install it while it's connected to the lamp. I had difficulty getting the lamp to re-seat. Most likely already been posted earlier on, but was part of my issue, and wanted to include it. Thanks again for all the help.
post #1114 of 1116
Hey dengland. I finally got a chance to look at the power supply capacitors. They look fine. I do notice the bottom of the board, under the thermistors near the relay is discolored from heat. Makes me wonder if one of them is failing when it gets hot enough. I'm going to try running the TV without the back on and extra air flow just see if there is a difference. I see on PartsStore.com that there is an alternate power supply available. Do you know of a problem with Bp94-02141A as an alternate? Thanks again for your advice.
post #1115 of 1116
Quote:
Originally Posted by tblankenship View Post

Hey dengland. I finally got a chance to look at the power supply capacitors. They look fine. I do notice the bottom of the board, under the thermistors near the relay is discolored from heat. Makes me wonder if one of them is failing when it gets hot enough. I'm going to try running the TV without the back on and extra air flow just see if there is a difference. I see on PartsStore.com that there is an alternate power supply available. Do you know of a problem with Bp94-02141A as an alternate? Thanks again for your advice.

I have no specific experience with the alternate. If you believe what a vendor says, you should be good to go.

http://www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-bp94-02141a-power-supply-unit.htm

For $25, certainly worth the effort to try that purchase.

Caps don't get warm, so it is doubtful that is the source of the discoloration. Voltage regulators on the other hand, are little heaters. I would go for the PS replacement.
post #1116 of 1116
Thanks for the parts source, dengland. That is actually the same alternate part number that I was mentioning, but that is a much better price.
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