Fabric Frames - Page 6

More pics are in the process, camera troubles

Paul

Here is a pic of the side wall before I install the seating.

Paul

back wall and other side wall

Paul

O.K. Guys

I cut my 1/2" MDF in strips of 1 1/2 wide. Now I tried to screw them in together to make it 1" thick, but wood screws don't work well with MDF. I did a second frame with wood glue, and that seems to hold pretty good, but it takes a long time for the glue to really take hold.

I see GPowers used wood as a backing to MDF, maybe thats a way of getting the wood screw to grab better?

Also when the frame is finished and wrapped in GOM, Use a nail gun and shoot right thru the 1" frame, and thru the 1/2" drywall, and hopefully if I get lucky enough I might hit a stud? I would rather try avoiding the use of glue on the walls. So trying to think of a different way here.

Is there a different way of getting this frame on the wall?

Ozzie

Ozzie,

I am planning to use a French Cleat to attach my panels. I want the ability to remove them if needed to add/remove absorbtion easily. Here is a link to a PDF that explains how they are designed.

French Cleat

Steve

What about these:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-367

Do you think they'd support those frames?

I guess you could use a French cleat to support the weight and then throw a couple of these on the bottom to hold it in place.

I was thinking of putting strips to hold the fiberglass in place on the walls then building just the MDF portion of the frames in the same fashion you did. That way I wouldn't have to cut the fiberglass or cut the plywood. I'd just tack up the retaining strips, fit the fiberglass and secure the panels over it.

How important is the 1" of batting over the fiberglass? Is it just filler or is it doing something?

I think we underestimate the power of Velcro. I'm really leaning towards this method myself.

Question Greg... had you thought of using perhaps moulding type strips, and cutting 45 degree angles, and perhaps gluing thin squares of wood in the corners, or the whole back? Essentially making a picture frame. All you really need to do is then find the right cross section look you like, then pull and attach the fabric over your 'frame'.



Thoughts? too light perhaps?

From the few panels I have done those moldings are simply to weak. I had the same thought, till I actually picked one up, and saw it bend. When you stretch the fabric accross one of those beam, I think it will simply not work. Heck 1 1/2" MDF even bends a bit if its too long.

Ozzie

Hmm.. how about if you back them with thin maybe 1/2 inch plywood? I'm just thinking routing, or angle cutting 50-70 of these frames is going to be hell...

If you are going to go through all the trouble to cut and glue the molding into the frames you might as well router the edges. Lets get one thing straight, these frames are not for people who want a quick and easy solution to this type of look. I tried several different options to GPowers method to achieve the same look but in the end realized that I would just have to put in the time and do it his way. Those of you who can't or don't have the time to do this procedure properly should think of another design option. It looks awesome but it is a hell of a lot of work plain and simple.

Paul

I agree with Paul!
Those wallmates might be an easy way out if thats what one wants, but it cost just a bit more. Same look less work, more money.


Ozzie

Greg,

Great job on the room! Plan to do the same chiseled panels. It's nice to see the "whole room" as one shot -- looks huge. Great photo to show all the detailed work you did on the room.

Hi Greg,

I am very intrigued by your frames and I may want to use this method. I have access to a complete woodworking shop that over the years I have made some fine furniture. I hope you can answer a few (7) questions.

If I were to build the frames I would use a biscuit joiner machine that cuts into the center of the side of on 1/2 frame and into the end of another section of the frame, this creating a grove for the biscuit to be placed and glued. Using a framing jig this would make a very strong frame. I also have at my disposal a 1/2 shank table mounted router to router the outside edge. I have enclosed a drawing, the red oval is the biscuit of which is made of wood. These biscuits would be installed in each corner of all frames.

Questions:

How did you join the four corners together?

Did you router the inside edges of the frames as well?

I understand why you used plywood for the strength, but did you not have voids in the plywood after using the router?

Linacoustic, is this the same product used to insulate the insides of ductwork?

Can I assume you cut the Linacoustic to fit within the frame and once the frame is mounted this is how the insulation is secured?

What is the Poly Batten used for?

Are the frames attached to a drywall wall or an insulated frame wall?

Sorry for the questions but you have invested many hours in a beautiful theater and you have firsthand knowledge of what you have done. I am in the process of remodeling our home and will be building a theater room.

I see the point of making frames where you may need something acoustically transparent, but why finish all the walls with them? Wood frames are very unforgiving and they don't make for good-looking seams between them. Besides, they tend to warp and are difficult to upholster. Is this really so much better than 1" acoustical panels? What goes underneath the fabric for absorption?

Yes! Because he made it. The same fiberglass as in the acoustical panels for a fraction of the cost.

Greg,

Thanks for the reply. You have a stunning theater... In one of your photos it appears the the floor is sloping downward towards the screen much like in a large theater. Acoustically its better that the ceiling and floor do not share the same plane, this is why large movie theaters can get away without carpeting the concrete flooring.

I am in the planning stages currently and thinking of pouring the floor at a slope towards the screen. The only drawback to this method is that the room can never be used for anything else. With having both sets of parents living but in their 80's, I can see a day when one or more of the parents may be living among my wife and I. Luckily I have lots of space and building a guest home could be an option Whats in red are the changes I will make to add the theater to my home.

Greg,

Hope you don't have a problem of me for taking a stab at this. Once the frames are made and covered they can look great. As for the seams the two frames would come together as seen in the Photoshop image I made. With the frames made of MDF this is a very stable material to use as it is made of sawdust and glue. As you can see the butting of the frames forms a nice decorative feature. Remember the frame is not solid but 2 inch wide. From side to side to top to bottom of each frame Polly Batten and Linacoustic is used. Greg used Linacoustic in the first two rows of his theater while the remaining rows to the ceiling were insulated with Polly Batten. If I understand Greg correctly he used 1/2" MDF and 1/2" plywood to make the frame 1" thick so the insulation is flush to the frames once installed within the frame. The MDF is the layer facing the the cloth while the plywood is what the cloth is stapled to on the backside. By using this method the router can router the MDF to a smooth surface so that the cloth has a smooth edge to form around.

Just a comment on the construction of these frames. I plan to do the exact same thing as Greg did except with floor to ceiling panels (7' high and 20-24" wide). I'll have one cross member in the middle for rigidity but I'm also thinking seriously about using 1/4" luan plywood or Masonite material attached to the back for additional strength. I can get this stuff for about $10. or less a sheet. If I do this, and since this is a time intensive process, I can make all of the frames at the same time and not have to worry about any warpage later before I get a chance to upholster them--especially if I decide to cut down 2 X 8 material. From there it's an easy step to lay the Lincoustic and Poly Batting in an upholster to my hearts content. Liquid Nail to the wall just like a regular panel.

Bondsan (Bob)

Photoshop "panels" and wood panels are not the same. Yes Plywood and MDF are stable flat materials, but proper tools and how to use the tools are a big part of how successful you'l be with your panels / seams. If your panels aren't fairly square you'll have gaps when you butt them up against each other. Just my .02¢