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Fabric Frames - Page 9

post #241 of 897
DodgeViper

I like teh drawings and the concept, I think I missed something though...will the frames/cleats make noise or rattle with some heafty bass? If so how do you propose to fix that?

Thanks
Robert
post #242 of 897
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsberg34 View Post

DodgeViper

I like teh drawings and the concept, I think I missed something though...will the frames/cleats make noise or rattle with some heafty bass? If so how do you propose to fix that?

Thanks
Robert

With the fabric wrapping around the entire frame and once the frame slid into place, the frames are going to fit very snug against the sheetrock, in fact the frames will need to be pressed into the cleats due to the thickest the fabric coming in contact with the sheetrock.

Remember once the first row of frames are installed (the bottom row) the second row will secure the first row. The third row will secure the second row and so on until the installer reaches the top. The top row will need to be secured differently. You will still use the cleats but the top of the frame will need a wood runner put in place and secured through the sheetrock and into the wall studs the entire length of each frame, this securing the top row of frames from popping up. I had in vision the top row to finish out about 2" from the ceiling so that crown molding would cover over the frames and attached to the frames and ceiling.

Swithey mentioned using cork between the two cleats and this seems like a good idea. Cork can be purchased with a sticky back and very thin. Once the top wood runner is locked in place there will be no movement of the frame panels.
post #243 of 897
Thread Starter 
Seams like these cleats could be a lot of work. And the last frame in a column poses a problem unless you add molding to cover the required gap to get it over the cleat. So unless you are going to redo all your fabric in the next few years, why go through all this trouble?
post #244 of 897
Quote:
Originally Posted by GPowers View Post

Seams like these cleats could be a lot of work. And the last frame in a column poses a problem unless you add molding to cover the required gap to get it over the cleat. So unless you are going to redo all your fabric in the next few years, why go through all this trouble?

I plan to use crown molding along the top as the molding will be at a 45 degree angle this breaking up the 90 degree angle of the wall and ceiling, this improving the sound within the room. The cleats are rather easy to make on a table saw and are part of the finished frame. Plus the frames can be removed very easily if needed.

Everyone has an idea on mounting the frames and this is my approach on mounting the frames. I do not like the idea of nailing each frame to the wall. My plan is to use only 3 frames from floor to ceiling as per my drawings. The last frame or top frame can be mounted differently if molding is not going to be used and if the frames are going to continue to the ceiling. The cleat mounting system is very secure and rattle free...
post #245 of 897
Hi Greg,

congratulations on your beautiful HT room. It provided me the much needed inspiration and made me change my plans in the middle of the construction.

I have few questions about your recessed lighting in the soffit:

1) What size and type of bulb are you using for your recessed lights in the soffit


2) what trim did you use with those miniature housings?


3) what is the general distance between the lights on the back and side walls?

thanks in advance
sri
post #246 of 897
I recently asked Greg few questions and I am posting his responses here for the benefit of the others.

1) What size and type of bulb are you using for your recessed lights in the soffit ?

12v MR11 .

2) what trim did you use with those miniature housings?

There is no trim, it is all one pice with a rubber insert. .

3 ) You said 12v MR11 but is it a spot or flood with how many degrees angle and how many watts? You seem to be using a different bulb than the seagull recommended T3.

It is the correct bulb for the unit number 9426-12

Howerver this above reply seem to contradict with the information posted in post #56 in this thread

and here is the reply from Greg about the discrepency

when i purchased the fixture two years ago there was only one type of housing, it use the Mr11. Very expensive light bulb.

Now when i look at there site i see several fixtures. So I found the one that uses the MR11 and sent that part number to you. Do not know if they changes part numbers or what. But today per there web site the 9426-12 uses an MR11 the bulb that I have.


4) How many of these lights you have on each wall?

I have 5 along the side walls and 4 axxross the bacl wall.


5) what is the width of each wooden piece you have cut from the larger plywood and the MDF boards for building your fabric frames?

The strips were about 2" wide.
post #247 of 897
Thread Starter 
There is some confusion about the Sea Gull lighting fixtures that i used.

when i purchased the fixture two years ago there was only one type of housing, it use the Mr11. A very expensive light bulb.

Now when i look at Sea Gulls site I see several fixtures. So to clear things up I found the one that uses the MR11 and that was 9426-12. You might want to try one of the other fixtures as the bulbs would be less expensive.

Do not know if they changes part numbers or what. But today per there web site the 9426-12 uses an MR11 the bulb that I have.

Sorry for and confusion early posts of part number might have caused.
post #248 of 897
Thread Starter 
Recently I added this very cool component switch to my equipment rack. It is a Neothings Avalon 6x2 matrix switch. Only just started connecting it up to different sources. So the photos only shows two DVD players connected. The box switched Video and digital audio, fiber or coaxial.

You can control the box from front panel IR, IR jack on the back, USB or RS232. I connected my remote control PC up to the RS232 port and got some basic commands to function between MainLobby and the Avalon switch.

So now I can start to generate some more elaborate command sequences to switch between the intro DVD and the feature move DVD.

If only I hade more time..



post #249 of 897
That is definately a cool device, one of many I've been keeping an eye on. let us know how it works out.

What sort of control/automation system will you have to interface it with?

regards,

Billmac
post #250 of 897
Not to sidetrack the thread, but I have the same Neothings switch (6x2, integrator model) hooked up to a Control4 automation system. Works great, especially since C4 can control it via Serial with the model I have. I'd highly recommend it, although I would also say that if you think you have 6 inputs and 2 outputs, go for the 8x4 instead of the 6x2.
post #251 of 897
Quote:
Originally Posted by baskethead View Post

Have you guys looked at fabricmate? My indications are that they would sell to the end user and they have a similarly easy system to put up. I'm trying to decide right now if I'm going that way or try to go about building frames.
Greg


I'm also wondering, why go through the trouble to build frames when there are a couple track systems that have the beveled edge etc.

I'm 3-4 weeks away from putting up Linacoustic on front wall and chair rail height on side walls, and have been re-reading threads on cutting 2 by's into 1 inch firring strips, attaching to wall, stapling GOM, etc. Seems like the ease of the track system would be quite advantageous and time saving, or am I missing something?

Thanks in advance
post #252 of 897
The track system is very expensive. If you have the cash, go for it!

Gary
post #253 of 897
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmackrell View Post


What sort of control/automation system will you have to interface it with?

The control system in the theater is a HP PC running XP, MainLobby, and a ViewSonic airPad(using 802.11b). MainLoby will communicate to the Avalon using MainLobby server and the RS232 communicatio plugin.
post #254 of 897
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tshepherd View Post

Not to sidetrack the thread, but I have the same Neothings switch (6x2, integrator model) hooked up to a Control4 automation system. Works great, especially since C4 can control it via Serial with the model I have. I'd highly recommend it, although I would also say that if you think you have 6 inputs and 2 outputs, go for the 8x4 instead of the 6x2.

Too late already have the same unit you have 6x2 integrator model. I' am using the Avalon behind the NEC ISS 6010 RGB video switch. The NEC does not have any provisions for switching component. Plus the NEC will not switch digital audio.

So my path is DVD to the Avalon switch, to the Rock video processor, to the NEC 6010, and finally the NEC PG9+ projector.
post #255 of 897
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Lem View Post

Seems like the ease of the track system would be quite advantageous and time saving, or am I missing something?

Thanks in advance

For me it was the problem of trying to purchase these track system. Two years ago the suppliers would not sell to the DIYer. The other problem is the cost of the track systems. I had a limited budget to build the complete structure and theater. Building the frames was one way of getting the look I wanted and staying within the budget.
post #256 of 897
Quote:
Originally Posted by GPowers View Post

The seam along the wall was done using he hidden seam technique. The fabric then wraps around the bottom and the side and staples in side the light tray.

Greg

Greg,

Do you mind explaining the 'hidden seam technique' that you mentioned above please?

thanks
sri
post #257 of 897
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sri777 View Post

Greg,

Do you mind explaining the 'hidden seam technique' that you mentioned above please?

thanks
sri

The way i created a hidden seam was with dry wall shims. I use the shims to create a straight even edge. The hidden seam is created by attaching the fabric to the surface and folding the fabric back over it self. Thats where the dry wall shims come in. They create a even fold that is not distorted by the staples.

I would post some photos on how this is done but my digital camera was resently stolen. i'am look at replacing it with the wifi Cannon 430.
post #258 of 897
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sri777 View Post

Greg,

Do you mind explaining the 'hidden seam technique' that you mentioned above please?

thanks
sri

Below is a simple sketch of a hidden seam:

post #259 of 897
Hi Greg - Been awhile since I contacted you with some questions on your fabric frames (about 1.5 years now that I check back !) and see that the thread is still going strong here.

I have seen in another thread where you explained your inner corner treatment - I believe it is a 1.0" x 1.0" strip (actual dims) ripped from a standard 2x4 and then covered with GOM.

I have a couple of questions related to this -
1) - is the edge of your frame bevelled on the edge that butts up agains the corner? It looks like it's not on some of the pics I can find but just wanted to check with you.

2) - Did you have any outside corners in your room and if so, how did you tackle them?

Thanks !
Lewis
post #260 of 897
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LewisCobb View Post

I have a couple of questions related to this -
1) - is the edge of your frame bevelled on the edge that butts up agains the corner? It looks like it's not on some of the pics I can find but just wanted to check with you.

2) - Did you have any outside corners in your room and if so, how did you tackle them?

Thanks !
Lewis



I did not bevel the edge that butts up to the corner. The picture is a close-up of the corner. I guess you could bevel that edge but i'am not sure how it would look.

Sorry I did not have any our side corners. You could just make a long bull nose corner piece and cover it with fabric. then your frames would just butt up to it.

How far along is you theater, and pictures?
post #261 of 897
Quote:
Originally Posted by GPowers View Post



I did not bevel the edge that butts up to the corner. The picture is a close-up of the corner. I guess you could bevel that edge but i'am not sure how it would look.

Sorry I did not have any our side corners. You could just make a long bull nose corner piece and cover it with fabric. then your frames would just butt up to it.

How far along is you theater, and pictures?


Thanks for the fast response. I'm a bit embarrased to admit that I have not started construction yet. The sad part is it's not because of funds - just too many other items "getting in the way" I have however been reading, sketching, re-reading all the time and to be honest it's a good thing that I have not started up to this point because I have been able to refine the design and pin down a lot of loose ends. One thing I have never changed is my desire to incorporate your frames concept, or a version of it. I have yet to see any design that I like as much as yours.

I'll be sure to post some pics when I get underway. I'm learning a simple modelling package at the moment to visualize my 2D cad drawings. It's not the high end stuff that some of the experts on here are using, but it will assist me with colors etc. Once I get the design pinned down, I will probably be getting reaper to do a full render for me before I start spending money.

Thanks again for your assistance. Do you have any pics of your stage/screen end of your theater? I don't recall seeing any in the thread.

Cheers,
Lewis
post #262 of 897
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LewisCobb View Post


Thanks again for your assistance. Do you have any pics of your stage/screen end of your theater? I don't recall seeing any in the thread.

Cheers,
Lewis



I have found it extremely difficult to pohotgraph the stage because of the screen. I get OK photos when the photo is taken on an angle, like the photo above.
post #263 of 897
Quote:
Originally Posted by GPowers View Post



I have found it extremely difficult to pohotgraph the stage because of the screen. I get OK photos when the photo is taken on an angle, like the photo above.

I hear you on trying to take such photos. I have trouble all the time trying to take photos where there's a large reflective surface and dark details close by. That's a good one though and shows the detail of your screen wall well. It raises another question on an issue that I am scratching my head about at the moment. The location where the side of your stage meets the wall, and partially covers the bottom fabric frame that is butted up against the black column on the stage - I am planning on making my stage narrower by the thickness of the fabric frame + the distance it is spaced off the wall. i.e. the panel will slide in until it meets up with the black column. Is this how you tackled this or did you contour the fabric frame to fit over the edge of the stage bullnose etc.? So many details once I "think" I have it figured out.....
post #264 of 897
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LewisCobb View Post

The location where the side of your stage meets the wall, and partially covers the bottom fabric frame that is butted up against the black column on the stage - I am planning on making my stage narrower by the thickness of the fabric frame + the distance it is spaced off the wall. i.e. the panel will slide in until it meets up with the black column. Is this how you tackled this or did you contour the fabric frame to fit over the edge of the stage bullnose etc.? So many details once I "think" I have it figured out.....

The fabric frame at that location is a solid pice of MDF with just the top edge beveled. The side was then cut to match the bull nose profile of the stage over hang. I then covered it with GOM fabric and no one knows the difference.
post #265 of 897
Quote:
Originally Posted by GPowers View Post

The fabric frame at that location is a solid pice of MDF with just the top edge beveled. The side was then cut to match the bull nose profile of the stage over hang. I then covered it with GOM fabric and no one knows the difference.

Yep - it looks like it belongs there for sure. Thanks for the info. I have made a few little renders of my "vision" for my room in Sketchup. Attached one to this response for you to have a look at. I am going with long wide frames. I'll need a brace in the middle to prevent bowing when stretching the fabric. The columns are not really columns in my room - they are fabric covered hinged panels that hide a couple of doors and water pipe shut off. Cen't seem to get the chairs painted a black color at the moment (I'm still learning Sketchup).

Anyway, thanks for your help again Greg and I'll be back in touch "in the fullness of time" as they say.

Cheers,
Lewis
LL
post #266 of 897
Hey guys - for my theater, I used the black corners as well, but I beveled the pieces that meet with it for a different look. I have some shots of this in my thread below. I should be just about done with my fabric frames (70 of them) by tomorrow and have more pictues.

Gary
post #267 of 897
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by garykagan View Post

Hey guys - for my theater, I used the black corners as well, but I beveled the pieces that meet with it for a different look. I have some shots of this in my thread below. I should be just about done with my fabric frames (70 of them) by tomorrow and have more pictues.

Gary

Not sure how you are doing your corners. I look at several of your pictures but could not make out the details in the corners.
post #268 of 897
ok - I'll post some closeups in my thread and here shortly.

gk
post #269 of 897
I added some pictures at the end of my thread for my fabric frames solution to a hidden wall for the rack components. Here are the pics:











post #270 of 897
Those look great. I'm ordering my fabric today. I have 8 fabric frames to construct which will enclose my acoustically transparent columns. 4 will be hinged and 4 will be more permanently attached.
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