Fabric Frames - Page 19

Check my posts #516 and #537 to see if that gives you any better ideas. If you're going to build 1" frames, I think you could try using 1x3 furring strips like I did. I'm not sure if you cut them down to 1" and stood them on their edges if that would be sturdy enough. If you lay them down flat, you'll need to add an additional layer of wood to make them 1" thick but that should be easy to attach.

Or two layers of 1/2" plywood would probably by fine too. I don't really see the need for MDF, even to get the beveled edge which I did without MDF.

Gpowers,

Just saw the write on your space, very nice and Congratulations!

It was a nice write up and they did a nice job of capturing the space in the pics.

Thank you. I ended up doing the "V" cuts on the internal corners and it worked great.

I'm not a plumber, but that looks like way more joints than are needed. I would think you could do the same thing with one cross and two elbows. Is it for more even distribution of water to the 3 heads?

Hi GPowers -
Great thread and impressive theater!

One thought on this image, coming from an aspiring pro photographer... usually in architecture shots, it's desirable to keep vertical lines vertical, ie not converging or diverging (I believe the term is parallax.) They even make special tilt/shift lenses which can be bought (or rented for the occasional job) which allow you to tilt the lens for composition purposes but keep the sensor or film plane parallel with vertical to address the lines.

You can also use stitching software and a tripod and a longer lens. The longer the lens you use the more frames you will need to stitch, but the less distortion will be present.

Love your setup! If we weren't on opposite coasts I'd offer to take some photos myself

was thinking of doing this finish to my theater when I started a long time ago .. but lost the thread.. not to fear.. I just tagged ya...

Hlomax - I highly recommend Gregg's frames. I'm just finishing my theater.... 68 frames and it worked out fantastically. We are really, really pleased with the results.

And... we are 15 miles outside of Pittsburgh!

I will post pictures as soon as I can get good enough ones that how well the room looks in person.

Bud

I am planning on similar frames as well, but a modified version. My frames will be 3'x6' with 3 stacked on top of each other to fill a 9' wall. I will have columns in between each "row".

Keep in mind what material you are going to cover them with. I wasn't sure what I was going to use and I built my panels 64" tall. When it came time to cover them, GOM was the only material I could find wide enough to cover without wasting a lot or having a seem. I think most of the GOM is 66" wide. Just something to think about.

I will look into that.. Thanks.
Which side of Pgh.
I and the wife are from East Pgh.
Braddock and Plum Boro. but we have now moved to Atlanta Ga.
family still there though so we are up there often.

Yes, the frame size is important if you want to make the most efficient use of whatever material you are using to cover them.

Greg (or is it Gregg ?) made that point clear in one of his early posts and it stuck in my head long enough for me to remember it whenever it came time to do my panels.

I believe the nominal dimensions of my panels are 21-3/8" x 30-3/8". The 30-3/8" dim is the critical one and it allows you to get two panels out of a 66" wide piece of GOM, assuming a thickness of 1"... just barely.

I also modified Greg's design slightly by mounting my frames using french cleats on all but the top row of frames. I was going to use glue and nails like Greg suggested however the material that I used was not able to hide the nails so I had to find another solution.

Hlomax - we're on the complete other side of Pgh - south and west of the city down rt.79.

Here is my implementation of Greg's frame design. The photo's aren't great as the color is way off.... my frames are not this red and my columns are darker grey than they appear in the photos. The room is only 10ft wide but the photo's make it look even smaller. I also need to get a wider angle lense.

Thanks for the inspiration Greg.

Tip-top stuff Bud.

Very nice! Nice clean lines.

love the door.

Thanks for the comments. I'll start my own thread when I get new pics.

The door is more complex than it looks... while being simple at the same time. It's a standard, steel door so it has full weatherstripping with a threshold.

But the inside face of the door sat back about 2-1/2" from the other frames in the room. Because of that setback, if I just mounted frames to the door I would have had to leave a 3" gap on the right side (hinge side) so that the frames would clear the door frame.

What I decided I wanted to do was to have the frames the full width of the door but have them slide out away from the hinge as the door is opened and then move back into position as the door was closed.

How I did it was to mount 2, 24" wide ball bearing chassis slides to the inside face of the door. Then I mounted a piece of 1/2" MDF to the mating pieces of the chassis slides and then mounted the frames to the MDF with french cleats and velcro. So the mdf (with the frames attached) was now able to move left and right. I rigged up a pivot hinge and piece of steel angle and mounted that angle to the door and the pivot hinge to the door frame. You can see it on the right side of the door.

So, when I open the door the mdf panel slowly moves the about 1.5" or so automatically to the left which is just enough for the frames to clear the hinge side of door frame when the door is open 90 degrees.

I had to buy 2 sets of door knobs and weld them together to get a shaft that would span the entire 4" or so of door thickness.

It's pretty cool and a subtle detail that I am proud of. Thanks again.

EXCELLENT work Bud. Start a thread and post some photos of the door treatment install if you could. I'm looking to do something similar and sure could use a path to folllow.

CJ

Thanks Greg!

I gotta say, it was great to have Greg over to my my place. He's a really nice guy, full of enthusiasm and knowledge. I owe much to him for how well my theater turned out.

What projector is that, Bud? I love the black color!

RobertR - my projector is a Barco 1208s/e

I painted the projector flat black.