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Fabric Frames - Page 20

post #571 of 897
Thread Starter 
My Sony BDP-S560 Blu-ray Disc Player shipped yesterday, should be here this Friday. It has been a wait. I ordered the new Sony blu-ray player over a month ago.

I can not wait to replace the problematic LG BH100. True it is two years old, but i still have disks that will not play. And i have the latest firmware installed.
post #572 of 897
To GPOWERS and all who have contributed to this thread: thanks for showing us how to 'get frames done' and making this thread such a great resource. Though my design is different than yours, the info here was really helpful.

Cheers,
Jason

post #573 of 897
Here is a shot of my recently completed theater (just prior to seats coming in) -- sorry picture quality is not as good as it could be. Thanks to GPowers for the inspiration to build the frames that make the theater pop.



post #574 of 897
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlachanc View Post

To GPOWERS and all who have contributed to this thread: thanks for showing us how to 'get frames done' and making this thread such a great resource. Though my design is different than yours, the info here was really helpful.

Cheers,
Jason

There is no set configuration that frames need to be done in. I did mine small for looks and not knowing how the frames would hold up to stretching the fabric. Others have also varied the configuration. Your looks great with the large frames. Thanks for posting your theater here and Congratulation. Now go enjoy your theater.
post #575 of 897
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjg1969 View Post

Here is a shot of my recently completed theater (just prior to seats coming in) -- sorry picture quality is not as good as it could be. Thanks to GPowers for the inspiration to build the frames that make the theater pop.

Pretty cool. It really does POP! Is Tron hiding in there somewhere?

CJ
post #576 of 897
Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

EXCELLENT work Bud. Start a thread and post some photos of the door treatment install if you could. I'm looking to do something similar and sure could use a path to folllow.

CJ

Ditto here! Would love to see more detail on this
Jeff
post #577 of 897
JeffC - follow the link in my signature... it's a thread I started months ago that has some of the info you ask about. If you have any further questions, please post them on that thread so that I am not highjacking this thread.
post #578 of 897
I've posted here (for anyone interested) a cheap and fast way to do fabric frames and make it to where you can remove them easily. You can see where I pulled out the frame and it leaves the acoustic wrap attached to the wall. You simply staple the acoustic wrap (yellow) to the wall with the frames in place, and then when you pop out the frame, it leaves the acoustic on the wall in perfect pattern. Make sure you put alot of staples right next to each other so that when you plug the frame back in (with the GOM fabric attached), the yellow wrap won't get in the way. The top section you just staple the batting in the exact same way... This is really going to speed up the progress on my theater... These fabric frames fit so tight that I won't need to use anything to affix them to the wall...If you wanted to, I guess you could use velcro or some other easy method...I am purposely making them fit tight.





And here is the completed wall...(Whole wall took six hours to build).

Left wall and rear view of both

post #579 of 897
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjg1969 View Post

Here is a shot of my recently completed theater (just prior to seats coming in) -- sorry picture quality is not as good as it could be. Thanks to GPowers for the inspiration to build the frames that make the theater pop.

Love the blue, you have tied it all together! Very high tech look.

Greg
post #580 of 897
Greg, where did you get your carpet from? / What kind?
post #581 of 897
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahmedreda View Post

Greg, where did you get your carpet from? / What kind?

It is a Shaw commercial carpet. Not sure of the design or color name. Might not even be available today as we purchased the carpet several years ago.

Plus if I was installing new carpet I would not use this stuff. Way too stiff....
post #582 of 897
Just getting ready to order my GOM fabric for my frames. And I have to say these are the classiest frames I have seen. My questionis this: I am planning on using the 701 black for the lower portion of the walls and stage, but my sample appears to be quite see through. Is this an issue? Do I need to paint the frames first? the insulation is yellow, will it show through?


Thanks,


Audie
post #583 of 897
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by audhunt View Post

Just getting ready to order my GOM fabric for my frames. And I have to say these are the classiest frames I have seen. My questionis this: I am planning on using the 701 black for the lower portion of the walls and stage, but my sample appears to be quite see through. Is this an issue? Do I need to paint the frames first? the insulation is yellow, will it show through?
Thanks,
Audie

I did not paint the frames, the compressed fiberglass was black and the top half Poly fiber fill was white. I did not have a problem. But your fabric is different. So just try one frame and see if it is a problem. Make sure you check with the same light level as the room will normally have as the lighting level will effect the transparency.

Good luck and make sure you post a few of you all done photos here.
post #584 of 897
If you didn't use GOM fabric, what did you use?
post #585 of 897
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by audhunt View Post

If you didn't use GOM fabric, what did you use?

I did use GOM fabric, just not any from the 701 line.
post #586 of 897
Gpowers, if I remember correctly you were able to shoot some finish nails to fasten your frames. I did a test on a small piece of fabric (I have the Dazian, Janus line) and while the fabric is acoustically transparent it doesn't have noticeable openess. When I shot the trim gun to test it on the scrap, it pulled the fabric and caused the threading to be pulled in with the nail. Very bad!! Any suggestions if you in fact you did this? TIA.
post #587 of 897
Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Gpowers, if I remember correctly you were able to shoot some finish nails to fasten your frames. I did a test on a small piece of fabric (I have the Dazian, Janus line) and while the fabric is acoustically transparent it doesn't have noticeable openess. When I shot the trim gun to test it on the scrap, it pulled the fabric and caused the threading to be pulled in with the nail. Very bad!! Any suggestions if you in fact you did this? TIA.

Fabric material will make a difference for sure but also consider the nailer, type of nail used, line pressure, and depth adjustment on the nailer if any. Have you played with any of the latter things to get it to shoot in further so that it just rips or punctures the fabric quickly and recesses in to the frame material?
post #588 of 897
No broad testing yet. Just quick and dirty to see what would happen. Compressor set 90psi, using approx 2" brads and each one recessed in fairly well. I'll have to test it better as I get closer to installing my frames. I plan to shoot from the side and panels will butt flush agains each other so if I have to I will make small holes to shoot the frames thru.
post #589 of 897
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

Gpowers, if I remember correctly you were able to shoot some finish nails to fasten your frames. I did a test on a small piece of fabric (I have the Dazian, Janus line) and while the fabric is acoustically transparent it doesn't have noticeable openess. When I shot the trim gun to test it on the scrap, it pulled the fabric and caused the threading to be pulled in with the nail. Very bad!! Any suggestions if you in fact you did this? TIA.

I was worried about snagging the fabric, but it never happened. I guess I was just lucky. The black fabric I used on the stage was a some what fine fabric the the Gray and dark red fabric. I shot several brads through it when installing the base trim. Never has a snag.
post #590 of 897
Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 View Post

When I shot the trim gun to test it on the scrap, it pulled the fabric and caused the threading to be pulled in with the nail. Very bad!! Any suggestions if you in fact you did this? TIA.

What gauge is the nail you were using? I just finished my frames (I'll post soon) and though most were friction fit, a few needed brads due to unevenness in the walls. I used about 20 of the 18ga 2" brads and only one snagged the fabric. When I tried my 15ga finish nailer, it snagged every time.
post #591 of 897
After reviewing the entire thread I can't seem to find out how you made the frames. Did you just overlap the two materials and nail/staple together? How did you maintain the squareness?

Thanks,

Audie
post #592 of 897
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by audhunt View Post

After reviewing the entire thread I can't seem to find out how you made the frames. Did you just overlap the two materials and nail/staple together? How did you maintain the squareness?

Thanks,

Audie



Corners were overlapped and a carpenters triangle (not sure that is the correct name of the tool) was use when nailing the corners, see the photo above. The two pieces were also glued.

Because your are right, if every frame is not perfectly square the frames will not go on the wall correctly.

Your other option, to keep things square, is to build a jig to hold it square as you assemble the frame.
post #593 of 897
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottS View Post

What gauge is the nail you were using? I just finished my frames (I'll post soon) and though most were friction fit, a few needed brads due to unevenness in the walls. I used about 20 of the 18ga 2" brads and only one snagged the fabric. When I tried my 15ga finish nailer, it snagged every time.

I believe they are 18 ga. but I'll have to double check. I'll to really dig into it once I'm ready to start placing the frames.
post #594 of 897
Thanks for all the wonderful ideas! I read through the whole thread and the FAQ, so I really apologize if these questions were already answered. I am pretty new do DIY stuff, so some questions may be very basic:

1) What type of glue did you use for the lap joints -- is any wood glue fine? Did you use screws or nails to hold the boards together while the glue dries?

2) Has anyone tried using furring strips for the frame? I want to avoid MDF due to health concerns and found both 1x2 and 1x3 furring strips. Other than having 1.5" thick frames, is there anything I'm overlooking that would cause this not to work? My idea is to either double up the 1x3 furring strips with a lap joint and bevel the top .75" or to use the 1x2 furring strips on top and offset from the 1x3 and hope that the wrapped fabric will create the bevel "out of thin air".

Thanks,

Matt
post #595 of 897
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmw79 View Post

Has anyone tried using furring strips for the frame?

I did. I made a post about it a few posts ago: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post15896935
post #596 of 897
Concerning how to fasten the frames - I planned on using Greg's technique of using nails but in the end, I settled on French cleats instead. It worked great for my room and the frames are easily removable if they get damaged. The french cleat locks the top of the frame in and I used Velco on the bottom of the frames (only on those that wouldn't hang flat against the wall).

Best of luck and thanks again to Greg for his inspiration.
post #597 of 897
I ended up using just velcro to attach the frames to the wall. I decided that I didn't need them to be completely hanging so all of my frames are actually resting on the floor. Because of that, all I needed was a little bit of velcro on each segment to keep them from falling over.
post #598 of 897
Thread Starter 
1) What type of glue did you use for the lap joints -- is any wood glue fine?
Just used regular wood glue.

Did you use screws or nails to hold the boards together while the glue dries?
I used the air gun and brads

2) Has anyone tried using furring strips for the frame? I want to avoid MDF due to health concerns and found both 1x2 and 1x3 furring strips. Other than having 1.5" thick frames, is there anything I'm overlooking that would cause this not to work? My idea is to either double up the 1x3 furring strips with a lap joint and bevel the top .75" or to use the 1x2 furring strips on top and offset from the 1x3 and hope that the wrapped fabric will create the bevel "out of thin air".
If I were to build the theater today I would use the plastic strips that are now available to the DIY'er. Or make the frames and instead of laying the wood flat I would stand the wood on edge to create the frames.

Good luck
post #599 of 897
Thread Starter 




Here is an alternative frame style that I saw at a local PF Chang's Restaurant. These are fabric walls created with plastic channels. Could be something like fabricmate track system or the like. But the big difference is the space between the fabric frames instead to the 45 degree bevel. The space create a whole different look.
post #600 of 897
If I were to build the theater today I would use the plastic strips that are now available to the DIY'er


any more info on this product?
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