Fabric Frames - Page 20

To GPOWERS and all who have contributed to this thread: thanks for showing us how to 'get frames done' and making this thread such a great resource. Though my design is different than yours, the info here was really helpful.

Cheers,
Jason

Here is a shot of my recently completed theater (just prior to seats coming in) -- sorry picture quality is not as good as it could be. Thanks to GPowers for the inspiration to build the frames that make the theater pop.

Pretty cool. It really does POP! Is Tron hiding in there somewhere?

CJ

Ditto here! Would love to see more detail on this
Jeff

JeffC - follow the link in my signature... it's a thread I started months ago that has some of the info you ask about. If you have any further questions, please post them on that thread so that I am not highjacking this thread.

I've posted here (for anyone interested) a cheap and fast way to do fabric frames and make it to where you can remove them easily. You can see where I pulled out the frame and it leaves the acoustic wrap attached to the wall. You simply staple the acoustic wrap (yellow) to the wall with the frames in place, and then when you pop out the frame, it leaves the acoustic on the wall in perfect pattern. Make sure you put alot of staples right next to each other so that when you plug the frame back in (with the GOM fabric attached), the yellow wrap won't get in the way. The top section you just staple the batting in the exact same way... This is really going to speed up the progress on my theater... These fabric frames fit so tight that I won't need to use anything to affix them to the wall...If you wanted to, I guess you could use velcro or some other easy method...I am purposely making them fit tight.





And here is the completed wall...(Whole wall took six hours to build).

Left wall and rear view of both

Greg, where did you get your carpet from? / What kind?

Just getting ready to order my GOM fabric for my frames. And I have to say these are the classiest frames I have seen. My questionis this: I am planning on using the 701 black for the lower portion of the walls and stage, but my sample appears to be quite see through. Is this an issue? Do I need to paint the frames first? the insulation is yellow, will it show through?


Thanks,


Audie

If you didn't use GOM fabric, what did you use?

Gpowers, if I remember correctly you were able to shoot some finish nails to fasten your frames. I did a test on a small piece of fabric (I have the Dazian, Janus line) and while the fabric is acoustically transparent it doesn't have noticeable openess. When I shot the trim gun to test it on the scrap, it pulled the fabric and caused the threading to be pulled in with the nail. Very bad!! Any suggestions if you in fact you did this? TIA.

Fabric material will make a difference for sure but also consider the nailer, type of nail used, line pressure, and depth adjustment on the nailer if any. Have you played with any of the latter things to get it to shoot in further so that it just rips or punctures the fabric quickly and recesses in to the frame material?

No broad testing yet. Just quick and dirty to see what would happen. Compressor set 90psi, using approx 2" brads and each one recessed in fairly well. I'll have to test it better as I get closer to installing my frames. I plan to shoot from the side and panels will butt flush agains each other so if I have to I will make small holes to shoot the frames thru.

What gauge is the nail you were using? I just finished my frames (I'll post soon) and though most were friction fit, a few needed brads due to unevenness in the walls. I used about 20 of the 18ga 2" brads and only one snagged the fabric. When I tried my 15ga finish nailer, it snagged every time.

After reviewing the entire thread I can't seem to find out how you made the frames. Did you just overlap the two materials and nail/staple together? How did you maintain the squareness?

Thanks,

Audie

I believe they are 18 ga. but I'll have to double check. I'll to really dig into it once I'm ready to start placing the frames.

Thanks for all the wonderful ideas! I read through the whole thread and the FAQ, so I really apologize if these questions were already answered. I am pretty new do DIY stuff, so some questions may be very basic:

1) What type of glue did you use for the lap joints -- is any wood glue fine? Did you use screws or nails to hold the boards together while the glue dries?

2) Has anyone tried using furring strips for the frame? I want to avoid MDF due to health concerns and found both 1x2 and 1x3 furring strips. Other than having 1.5" thick frames, is there anything I'm overlooking that would cause this not to work? My idea is to either double up the 1x3 furring strips with a lap joint and bevel the top .75" or to use the 1x2 furring strips on top and offset from the 1x3 and hope that the wrapped fabric will create the bevel "out of thin air".

Thanks,

Matt

I did. I made a post about it a few posts ago: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post15896935

Concerning how to fasten the frames - I planned on using Greg's technique of using nails but in the end, I settled on French cleats instead. It worked great for my room and the frames are easily removable if they get damaged. The french cleat locks the top of the frame in and I used Velco on the bottom of the frames (only on those that wouldn't hang flat against the wall).

Best of luck and thanks again to Greg for his inspiration.

I ended up using just velcro to attach the frames to the wall. I decided that I didn't need them to be completely hanging so all of my frames are actually resting on the floor. Because of that, all I needed was a little bit of velcro on each segment to keep them from falling over.

If I were to build the theater today I would use the plastic strips that are now available to the DIY'er


any more info on this product?