Fabric Frames - Page 3

Here is a photo of one of the rear columns before the acoustics are installed:



The columns were build and coverd with fabric as free standing backless units and then attached to the wall with hidden cleats.

The fabric was stapled to the columns using 3/4 x 1 inch MDF strips. Too get two columns covered out of one piece of fabric i could not wrap the fabric around the back corner and staple it to the inside (fabric was not wide enough). So the fabric is stapled to the 3/4 x 1 MDF strip on the back edge. The wall frames hide this as the wall frames were installed after the columns.

Yes the router bit is a straight 45 degree cut. It is a heavy duty Bosch bit. See the photo below:

I guess you could use all MDF, but I used the plywood for strength. There is only a 1/32 of an inch difference using plywood that is 15/36. There is only a buck or two differance between the MDF and plywood per sheet.

The frame rails were 2 inches wide. This allow enough space to make adjustment were needed. Like the last frame of each column that butts against the floor.

Thanks! I look at the room and sometimes cannot believe it is mine. Then I look at the stack of receipts.........

Not in the business. The whole room was done from information gained from this forum, several years at CES trade show and lots of planning.

Right now the frames butt up too the carpet. See the photo:



Not sure yet if I will leave it for a clean uncluttered look or add some base molding. It depends on how it holds up to the vacuum. If I do add base molding it will be place on top of the frames and be 3 or 4 inches high with some kind of detail on the top edge.

The hidden cleats are just 2 x4's that were cut to the width of the columns. I made three cleats for each column. Then the 2 x 4 cleats were screwed to the wall, almost at the top of the column, middle and almost at the bottom. Then the columns were lifted in to place and slipped over the cleats. Screws were then, very carefully as to not snag the fabric, used to attache the columns to the hidden cleats.

Too remove the columns i would most likely need to remove some frames to get to the screws, as they are hidden by the frames.

The attached photo shows one of the locations of a rear column. You can see the top cleat and the center cleat. The center cleat is part of the speaker support.

When the door frame was mounted I ordered a extra wide frame so I could have it extend 1" past the drywall. So when the fabric frames were mounted there were flush with the edge of the door frame. See photo below. So for now I'am just going to leave it flush. In the future I might add some trim.

The beveled is created by cutting a 45 degree angle on the out side edge of wood frames.

Plan too using PCS LM4 control module.

When the GOM stuff is done, one or two more weekends, i will move on to the lighting (step lights, stage lights, screen wash lights, light tray lights, more recessed ceiling lights, rack work lights, etc...) lighting control and remote control stuff.

I will know more then, But it is suppose to work.

The PDF is full of great ideas and samples. Wish I had access to something like this before I did my project. It presents more options and variety.

PCS LM4 is on the high end of x10 devices. It has four channels to control different circuits, a great software program to set it up and works well with a PC. I decided to continue to use X10 as I have a home automation system based on X10 and the JSD Stargate.

Cost of a PCS LM4 is less then a Lutron Grafik Eye. Although each unit has it own different features.

For me is was a cost issue, Liquid Nail and brads were cheap. I suppose you could use some kink of "L" brackets to mount the frames. But you need to source it or fabricate one. Same with a track system.

I know you will enjoy your Stargate. The one problem I had was the wife acceptance factor.

The seam along the wall was done using he hidden seam technique. The fabric then wraps around the bottom and the side and staples in side the light tray.

Greg