Samsung 2005 DLP HDTV Discussion --- HLRxxxxW Models - Page 221

I have a HLP6163WA/XAA so YMMV. My DMD board has two screws with springs next to the heat-sink behind the small fan. These adjust to tilt the DLP Mirrored assembly. Two people 3 hours Goodluck!

I have two Samsung sets, one is a 2005 HL6163W DLP, and the other is a newer Samsung LCD 46" display.

My question is regarding the older model. I have a DTV antenna I used to pick up HD programming over the air which worked fine on my newer Samsung set. Channels I'm getting are all consistent with the new DTV broadcasting (i.e.-- channel 2-1, 4-1, 4-2, 4-4, etc.). They are broadcasting in 1080i resolution.

I recently switched out my 46" LCD to my bedroom, and moved the older 61" DLP into the living room. I attached the DTV antenna to the Ant.1-IN input on the back panel of the DLP and tried searching for local broadcast channels using the auto-search in the setup menu, but it didn't find any channels. I connected the antenna cable to Ant.2-IN, and that also did not work. Are the older Samsung DLP's unable to receive DTV broadcast channels over the air without a set-top box? Any help appreciated!

First I don't believe this message are is still going. WOW!

I have a HLR5078WX and recently I notice that my cable provider COX menus changed. No problem there but when I switch channels slowly every few channels I get a delay and a black screen then the picture is half way up the screen then a moment later everything is proper position.
I remember way back someone was talking about a shade inside that is like a trap door that opens and closes when changing channels.
Does this sound right? Well it seems the trap door may have some dust and is hanging once in awhile. Other than this issue everything is still great picture and sound.

Any suggestions or directions to clean? Is it worht the effort ?

Thanks everyone.

Iggy, see this thread on the new Cox system:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1241913

It's probably about how the STB selects screen resolution.

I have a HL-R4667W that needs to have its color wheel replaced. I'm curious about how much repair shops charge for replacement of the color wheel. For those who paid to have it done, how much did it cost?

I don't know on the cost to do the labor. But if you are going to do it yourself, the color wheel is $100-200 depending on model.
Do you know which color wheel you need? There are 2 options an L3 or L6 chassis.
There are 2 ways to tell
a. the lamp code on the side of the tv can tell
b. pull the rear cover and it is often written on the light engine chassis.

It isn't hard to do yourself if you are at least a small bit tech inclined.

If you have a L3 chassis, I have a new Samsung color wheel pn. BP96-00674A , I'd sell for $105 shipped in the 48 state US.

HLR4266W

Folks:

I've extensively perused this and other forums and feel a "kinship" with others who spent a good deal of money on a Samsung DLP in the early years (2006 - 8025 hours on the lamp now) only to have it go south in a relatively short period of time.

What I can't figure out right now, based on what I've seen here and elsewhere is if my problem is caused by the color wheel (it isn't making any noise) or if it is the LE failing. It goes away with a solid bang on the base. Since only two fans and a color wheel comprise the moving parts on this unit, they seem suspect. But, it could also be a bad ground or something similar on the LE.

I found this video at youtube from somone else that is the exact same model, and exact same problem, I'm having. No, been having on and off for about 18 months, along with the "on and off" problem that cleaning has not seemed to help, nor has the door latch repair. But the "on and off" is so intermittent as to have us ignoring it most of the time.


http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...mfnejew7diRCMc

Those of you with experience, please check out the video and opine as to whether this is the color wheel not keeping up to speed or the LE. (forgive the quote marks, but I'm new and can't post URLs - yet)

If it is the former, then I'll attempt the replacement. If it is the later, is there anyone who wants a good deal on a four your old, 42" Samsung DLP? ;-]

Tom H,
Antioch CA

I have the Captain Kirk HLR-5087W.. The bulb is dimming out. What is the cheapest bulb/light engine I can purchase and from where that is reliable. Thanks.

I recently bought a replacement lamp assembly from ebay seller rivervalleyelectronics. They have one of the lowest prices (might not be THE lowest), they have good feedback rating, and they ship very quickly (they have a free shipping option too). They have both the lamp by itself and the lamp with housing for $7 more. It's a lot less work to buy the lamp w/ housing and may be worth the extra $7.

Hello, I currently have an HLR-6168W model, that lately has the following problem: after a few hours of use, the entire right half of the picture goes black, while the picture on the left side of the screen remains fine... turning off the set, waiting 10secs and turning it on again usually takes care of it before it happens again every 30 minutes or so... Has anyone else had this problem or know of a solution?

Hi. For anyone encountering green plaid squares, messed up screen when using tv tuner, component inputs, but PIP and digital inputs are fine, it's something in the digital block.

My HLR4667w just started doing that yesterday after only doing it for a few minutes once before, but this time it stayed that way. Try your component inputs and it should look normal on those if it is the same problem. If so, it's something in the digital block/ tuner/dnle side (left side when looking at the rear, behind/attached to all the inputs).

Since I also have a HLR4266w I swapped digital blocks so I know for sure the problem is there. My 46" is temporarily fixed but i lost the vga port by doing it.

A couple very odd things is that the pcba in my HLR4667 said HLR4266 on it. Another thing is that the black wire going from the power supply to the digital block was not connected when I took off the back. When I did the swap initially, I connected it and got white specs on the screen, flickering, and poor reception. After disconnecting the cable like it was before, it was perfect. Cheers.

So this issue (or a similar one) has recently started acting up again on my tv. I'm still on the original lamp (no idea how to check the hours on it). My tv is periodically flickring patches of horizontal lines on the screen and the bulb seems to sometimes dim for a bit and then come back to normal brightness. Once or twice it seemed like the hue of the screen may have shifted to a slight yellowish before going back to normal again as well. I haven't had any led's or anything, and this issue is definitely intermittent. Does anyone know if this might be the bulb dying, or something like the light engine or processor board going? If it is inexpensive to fix, I'd consider it. But I wouldn't want to just start throwing money at it if I had no idea when I could just buy a new tv instead.

(Mods, I posted this in one other thread, sorry for the cross-posting...delete the other one if necessary)

Don't know if people are still reading this thread, buuuuut:

My parents have an HLR5067W and given what they told me about it, I purchased a new lamp. That said, when I actually saw the set in person (I replaced the lamp), the TV turns on, displays whatever input you're on, and then promptly (2-3 seconds) freezes and resets. I don't know if it's better or worse that the picture is seemingly fine (and it registers button presses before it freezes/resets) but it seems like the controller/processor has an issue.

Has anybody heard of an issue like this before? I gave them a 32" LCD to use in the meantime but that's not a long-term solution. I'd like to know whether this thing is useless or repairable. I'll try giving Samsung's CS a call tomorrow.

Thanks!

Two questions;
1. How many have had to replace the color wheel?
2. Has anyone had to replace any of the fans?

Mine exploded and I had to replace it about a year ago. It was a bit of a precision job -- definitely harder than replacing the bulb (about to do that for the 3rd or 4th time), but not too bad. It should take somewhere between 30 minutes and 2 hours. I think with the age of these TVs, it's probably pretty common.

The links below were in the notes I took in case I need to do it again. Also, be sure to figure out what chassis you have before you order the color wheel. I don't remember how to determine that, but for the 55" model the options are something like L3 and L6. Mine was a L6.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E8EK1C/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
http://www.justanswer.com/tv-repair/2uswf-samsung-hl-r5667w-56-lcd-tv-earlier-today-tv.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cx4pbNjsxfU&feature=related
http://www.jangro.com/electronics/samsung-dlp-replace-color-wheel/
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?field-keywords=HL-R5667W+color+wheel&url=search-alias%3Delectronics&x=0&y=0

The color wheel I received was a bit dusty, which surprised me. It almost looked used. But, it works and wasn't too pricey.
I have not.

I have the Samsung hlr5667w and have used it with a PS3 connected via HDMI for several years without problems. Over the past ~6 months the PS3 will sometimes get into a state where it only displays a blank black screen to the TV. After several reboots of the PS3, I can usually get it to detect the TV and the PS3 then prompts me to set HDMI 720P as the default video setting.

Last week, the PS3 got stuck in the state where it only displays a blank black screen. No number of power cycles of the PS3 (or long-presses of the PS3 power button) will get it out of this state. Since I primarily use the PS3 for watching Netflix, I decided to hook up my brand new Roku 2 XS instead. The Roku displays menu content without issues, but when I attempt to watch a Netflix (or other) video, the sound works normally, but the video is simply a solid purple box (either 4:3 with black side bars or full screen depending on the aspect ratio of the video itself). A quick internet search indicated this could be a HDCP issue.

Despite the PS3/Roku issues, my DirecTV box still works perfectly with the TV, though I don't have any premium channels like HBO/Sunday Ticket/PPV.

Both the PS3 and the Roku work fine with an old 22" Gateway monitor via HDMI->DVI adapter.

So, my questions are....

1. Has anyone else seen this issue?

2. Is there a new version of HDCP that Roku and the PS3 (via update?) are now implementing that is incompatible with this TV?

3. Does the TV component that implements the HDCP protection/handshake sometimes go bad? If so, what component is that, and is it typically replaceable (I've already replaced the bulb a few times and the color wheel, so I have no problem tearing the set apart)?

Thanks in advance,
Mike
Edited by mdschiller - 10/19/12 at 11:34am

I have a PS3 and XBox360 hooked up to my HLR5688W and had a similar problem, turned out the HDMI cable went bad....just a thought

Nope, not a cable. I bought new cables and have the same problem. Additionally, I attached an Apple TV. It complains that the TV doesn't support HDCP.

Anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks in advance,
Mike