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Anyone using Milori Colorfacts Pro? - Page 5  

post #121 of 137
I suppose there is a breaking point where more exposure does little or nothing for accuracy. But cutting the exposure time will effect accurate reading and consistency of multiple measurements results.

Temperature is also a significant factor. A thermometer is handy to have. Some of the best probes have a "cooling" device built in. Or, you can put your probe in the refrigerator before using then wrap it in one of those ice bags:) I'm not kidding.
post #122 of 137
Originally posted by CKL

Go to Edit/Option/Exposure/: select the manual exposure time, 8000 miliseconds is the longest. Long exposure time can increase the stability of reading at 20-30IRE. Eyeone can give me consistent results of RGB levels.

It is not accurated to meansure contrast ratio because of the unstable lumen reading at 0IRE no matter the sensor is facing the screen or the projector. I use a light meter which can take 0.01 lux to measure the CR.
Here's the post about exposure. Problem is in the options exposure area there's 10 or so options. I just picked grayscale one and changed from 5000 to 8000. Any better tips in this area?
post #123 of 137
Originally posted by krasmuzik
Wait I mean is just leave it clicking while set to 20-30IRE - see if it is stable.
Oh, ok at 30 green would sit level while red and blue would go to the 6500 line, next click would taper of a little, next click back to the 6500k line. I figured since the RGB-brightness numbers were getting it there half of the time this is where I needed to be.
post #124 of 137
Any better tips in this area?
Yes ! A ten degree temp shift (the probe warms up as you use it) will change the readings Try keeping the body cool. Just be sure no moisture gets near those filters and use long exposure times (at least default ) for low IRE's
post #125 of 137
What's the little black button on the one-eye for?

I reset to factory exposure and did ok this morning. It's fast enough for me in the 30IRE area. The rgb lines do jump around a little and don't stay flat like the high IRE's. Isn't that the way it's always been?
post #126 of 137
Isn't that the dark reading button? Been a few months since I used it.

I don't have stability problems on my Spyder2 at low IRE - it's default is 5s exposure. Whenever I do see that though - I take it as a sign to move closer to the projector and get more on the dark side. But I do a lot of these bright Infocus projectors as well - though I had no problems getting stable readings on NEC with IRIS closed. But you can only do projector readings with TrichoMat - not the Eye-One.

I think you should try the training method discussed. Use the Eye-One at 100% IRE on-screen to setup for calibrate with the Trichomat on-projector. Covers for your screen and sensor error! The Trichomat should be good at contrast as long as you get close enough for a high black level reading. Just take repeated contrast readings to find out if you are stable (close enough)
post #127 of 137
"Whenever I do see that though - I take it as a sign to move closer to the projector and get more on the dark side."

That could be it I had the sensor a few inches from the screen. Mainly because I got a higher light reading there. I'll back it up and see, thx
post #128 of 137
I meant reading the projector not reading the screen. The more of a reading for black without blowing the meter up on whites - the better stabiilty you get.
post #129 of 137
I'm concentrating on the One-eye right now. I'll get back the the Tri-chromat and aiming at the PJ again. It seemed odd aiming at the lens and I don't have a laser to help me.

Shopping list
Laser pen
light meter
Radio Shack?

I'm not clear on channel 3 and radio shack device to tune a 1080i signal?

Channel 3?
post #130 of 137
That is RadioShack's DVD RF Install kit. Most DVD players have dropped RF output - though it is coming back with DVD/VCR combos. So RadioShack came out with a handy box/cable kit for those who insist on not using component cables and hooking their DVD player up to Channel 3!

Beats paying 20x the price for the Sencore box that does a real HD channel 3. Just set your settop box to upconvert. Of course it must tune POS/OTA - I found the Comcast cable boxes do.


It looks like it is discounted - they came out with a new version - that does stereo HiFi!
post #131 of 137
Radio Shack is a few stores away, got one a 15-2540, the coupon was handy paid for lunch. thx
post #132 of 137
I have the new ComCast PVR and I noticed one of the Cinemax digital multiplex channels frequently goes off air with a colorbars pattern late at nite. So hopefully I can capture it for doing my basic setup. Not sure if you can keep a recording from falling off the list! Besides every Comcast component output is likely different voltages - so not very useful for installs.

And no I am not staying up watching Cinemax after dark soft porn - just up late because of grad school! :D

Your welcome - I paid $50 for mine because I just went straight to the store.

Also the red light will not come on if you do not have all cables plugged in. I thought I had a surge blow it - and exchanged only to find the new one did the same thing.
post #133 of 137
I'll see what I can do with the Comcast 5100 or Sony HD100. Oh boy more tuning hours. I haven't even settled on which sensor I like. They have the comcast PVR avilable for me now, time to pick it up.
post #134 of 137
I had to bribe Comcast with a Platinum upgrade to get the PVR! They were out with the box the next day - it has to be 'professionally' installed up here.

My 'professionals' who came out when I complained the remote sensitivity was bad - said "your problem, Sir, is you did not use the red/white/yellow AV jacks on the bottom". And this was their supposed A-team who only does HD PVR's...yes I said team - apparently it takes three people to plug in the box and reset the menu.
post #135 of 137
I know what you mean, they installed my 5100.

Great deal heh they make you buy all the junk to get the good stuff. rant!

Hey I had better luck last night tuning with the 1eye a couple of feet away from the screen. More stable low end readings and I'm very happy with the end result using the cheapo Toshiba HDMI player.

I tried to make this Oppo player with DCDI work but not grayscaling would help the magenta look to the colors plus the Tosh looks smoother.

Any of you HT1000 or HT1100 owner looking for an option DVI player the Tosh works well for you, it has a preset 1024X768 HDMI resolution, just press and go. :)

Toshiba SD-5970

I'm watching Meet the Fockers 1 right now on the Tosh/h77. A very good movie to judge color after a grayscale tuning. It is just me but I find this Actress Teri Polo extremely appealing in a natural sort of way. You probably saw the MSN look at the girl yesterday. If I were famous and 15yrs younger. :)
post #136 of 137
good thread for calibration forum
post #137 of 137
I read some of this thread, but glaced through most of it, so I apologise if this has already been covered....

Has ColorFacts 6.0 shipped yet? I just placed my order last Friday but have not heard anything back.
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