Official Pioneer VSX-1015TX Thread - Page 78

Also when I go through the speakers to test them the sub works and the speakers seem to be working as well

I think Id try to do the factory reset again after checking all wires and making sure there are no shorts, then I would power up the receiver and simply try to play something from the tuner before going any further.

So I think I fried the crossover on my speakers (Klipsch KG3.5s) because re same problem is occurring (only playing out of the tweeters) with my other receiver. I guess I need to decide whether I wanna try and fix te speakers or get some other ones. I'm running a Klipsch KSW-100 sub right now. I am using for mainly music, a lot of which is bass heavy. I'm looking for a little more bass outta the speakers if I get new ones but without loss and clarity of the tweeters and higher pitches. What speakers would you all suggest?? (lookin to buy off Craigslist probably, not new)

Old Cerwin Vegas were good for deep bass, not sure about the current models....

If your bluray player have 5.1 or 7.1 analog outs connect in this way to the multichannel 5.1 of the Pioneer, my VSX 1015
with the OPPO BDP-93 give a superb HD audio!!!

The remote on my Pioneer1015TX no longer works and a local repair shop says that the sensor on the circuit board has failed. They also tell me that the sensor is not supplied by Pioneer as a seperate replacement part and a complete new circuit board will be needed at a cost of around $250. At that price, it is not worth fixing. Has anyone else had this problem or have any suggestions what to do? The unit works perfectly when controlled manually but because of the physical location of our AV setup, the use of a remote is essential. Any help gratefully appreciated.

Thanks

See VSX-1015 Service Manual: http://www.kallhovde.com/pioneer/tricomp/Audio/VSX/VSX-1015_RRV3113.pdf
You (or a trusted technician) could identify and replace the IR Sensor IC3002 (Remote Receiver Unit) and
perhaps also Q3001, both on Assy "O" Display Assy (attached to the Front Panel), found on pg21 & pg77.
Replacement doesn't look very hard once you remove the Front Panel and remove Assy "O". IC3002 is
a simple 3-pin device and Q3001 has the minor extra complication of being a 3-pin surface mount device.
[You would think a factory service technician would be able to do this with less than an hour of labor....]

Note that digital signal "RMC" becomes "SRIN" as it passes through JA952 "SR IN" ("IN CONTROL" jack)
located just below the AM/FM antenna connections. Rather than repairing the VSX-1015, you might want to
simply plug a Remote IR Sensor device into this mini-jack. These devices typically output TTL signal levels
(0, 5 VDC): http://www.smarthome.com/8170S/Mini-Stick-On-Infrared-IR-Emitters-Bugs-Blasters/p.aspx
Some (but not all) Cable STB's use 56 kHz, so some IR Sensors may not operate reliably across all "standard"
A-V IR frequencies of 36, 36.7, 37.9 kHz and/or 40 kHz...so make sure you can return these devices.

Parts List for Assy "O" is on pg106, IC3002 is RPM7140-H9, Rohm 40 kHz IR Receiver Module (TTL Output):
http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/129973/ROHM/RPM7140-H9.html
http://www.datasheetarchive.com/RPM7140-H9-datasheet.html
Available here: http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=RPM7140-H9

and Q3001 is 2SA1576A transistor: http://www.rohm.com/products/databook/tr/pdf/2sa1037ak.pdf
Available here (see any of the three offerings which allow single unit orders):
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&keywords=2SA1576A%20&x=0&y=0&cur=USD
Edited by holl_ands - 9/21/12 at 1:22pm

Problem that someone can hopefully give me a hand with. I still use my vsx 1015 and love it. Lately though when watching either TV or DVD I get what is best described as a cloud moves over the picture (the picture for some reason will go dark and then brighten back up like a cloud is passing over the bulb). At time the receiver cant pick up the signal from the infocus sp5000. Could this be a video switching issue in the receiver or do you believe its a problem with the projector. Any way to diag this problem?


Henry

Hook each device directly to the Projector....if Projector still has a display problem, you've eliminated
AVR and SOME of the cables...then swap cables to see if one of them is bad....if it's not a cable problem,
then it is LIKELY the Projector. If problem goes away when path through AVR is eliminated, swap cables
around to see if it's a cable problem....if still a problem, the AVR is likely the source of your problem.

Thanks for the reply. I should have thought of that. Sometimes it the simple things that escapes me. I will try it this weekend.

Henry

Power ratings question. I have a neighbor who has a VSX-1015TX. As you know, it's a 7.1 receiver. And the specs list it as 120-watts-per-channel. But - in the back of the manual - its power supply has a max consumption of only 480 watts? How does that work? 7 channels with a continuous power output of 120-watts should be a lot more than 480, shouldn't it?

My neighbor is considering upgrading to VSX-822-K, which is a 5.1 system. He only uses 5.1, so he won't miss the 7.1 support. He would really appreciate all the features on the newer VSX-822-K that simply weren't available on the 1015TX (HDMI support, Apple Airplay, etc.).

My main concern is the power ratings. The VSX-822-K is only rated 80-watts-per-channel. But it's total power output goes up to 450 watts.

Would that make the 822 - in reality - close to the 1015TX for power output when running 5.1? How about when just playing in stereo? Is there really a power difference between these two systems (one rated 120 WPC, the other 80 WPC), given their total-max-power usage is so close (480 vs 450)?

Thanks,
Bill

Nah the power will be pretty close. Get the receiver for the feature set you want. I think the 1015 was THX Select so you'll be losing that feature by getting the VSX-822. it also had preouts to connect an external amp. you have to step way up in the product line to get that feature now.

The vsx-1022 and vsx-822 are usually within $20 of each other in price. Get the 1022 if you need analog to HDMI video conversion, component video inputs, video scaler or 7.1. Its worth the extra money.

I sent the very same question to Pioneer support. Here's what they had to say:

Given that my neighbor likes to enjoy a lot of loud, 2-channel music - I am concerned that the drop from the 120-WPC rated VSX-1015TX down to the 80-WPC rated VSX-822 would be noticeable.
Edited by Bill222 - 3/28/13 at 2:22pm

In normal (or even abnormal) HOME use, there are VERY FEW, EXTREMELY INEFFICIENT speakers out there that actually NEED the higher power levels. I doubt that can TELL the difference between an 80 WPC and a 120 WPC Amplifier, esp. when using the usual separate Sub-Woofer Amplifier and your ears are ALREADY overloaded and can't really determine that the clipping level has been reduced by a mere 1.76 dB. Of course, your speakers ALSO need to have sufficient thermal dissipation to handle the higher average power levels without warping the voice coils....for as long as it takes for the cops to arrive after being called by angry neighbors!!!! On the other hand, 120 WPC in a Sub-Woofer Amp may be barely enough for some notoriously inefficient Sub-Woofers....and the ability of our ears to actually tolerate extremely high sound pressure levels below 100 Hz.

How to calculate (average, frequency response weighted) sound pressure levels (SPL):
http://www.chuckhawks.com/speaker_spl_amp_power.htm
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1282099/efficient-vs-inefficient-speaker

Crown even has an "app" for that
http://www.crownaudio.com/elect-pwr-req.htm
BTW: Some advise 15 dB "Headroom" for peaks and crescendos above the average WPC rating...but I've also seen 10 dB....and even (incrediblly) 20 dB assumed. Unfortunately, Amplifier manufacturers don't specify their PEAK power output capabilities. Note that only True RMS measurements are allowed with the inflated "IHF Music Power" no longer in use: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_power
And, FWIW, some Boom-Box and Boom-Car manufacturers continue to push fantasy power specs:
http://sound.westhost.com/power.htm

Pay close attention to what will happen to what remains of your ears if you try to reproduce "Concert" sound pressure levels, rather than limiting SPL to a "safe" long-term use level of about 85 dB with infrequent excursions to 90 dB:
http://www.cdc.gov/healthyyouth/noise/signs.htm
http://www.bassharp.com/nihl.htm
http://www.hse.gov.uk/event-safety/noise.htm
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/sound/dba2.html
Edited by holl_ands - 4/16/13 at 6:39pm