|Originally posted by MississippiMan
....and your ignoring the fact that without a adaquate level of opaqueness, the properties in either WOP or SM will do more to degrade an image than enhance it.
It's all about balance. There efforts with clears have been tried before with pretty poor results. But that doesn't mean that there is a formula that "balances' out what they have to offer.
Until actual representations of these applications are completed, tested, and the deffinative results posted WITH photos, then it's all speculation, and that sort of stuff only serves to confuse the whole issue for newbees looking for direction. Plus, it's not nice or correct to discredit the work of others based on the 'conjecture' of those with no real experience, just a suppostion.
Let them prove their point irrevocably, and everyone will climb on board, myself included.
Well first of all let me apologize to you Mississippi Man. I did not mean to "discredit" your work or anyone else's. You have much more experience than me and most of the other people in this area.
What I can say is that your are right. As you will see in my shoot out here, as soon as you try to put transparent or translucent coats (such as WOP) over UPW, your whites start to yellow. Thus the balance you speak of. I do however, still believe adding UPW to pearlecent "mixes" covers up the pigment properties. I have concluded that I
cannot tell the difference between 1:1:1 MMud and UPW with a little Deep Base added (no WOP.)
That being said, on to what I have experimented with:
I am saying now, what I have done here is far from perfect and I challenge those out there to continue with this experimentation.
I am comparing:
Rust-oleum Metallic "Aluminum" No. 7715 (touted by tryg here)
Rust-oleum High-Heat Silver No. 7716 (also from tryg)
I started with a small sheet of luan wood (all I had around the house) painted with UPW.
-On the left I put one
coat of WOP covered by one
coat of CCPM.
-Middle is Rust-oleum metallic "Aluminum"
-Right side is Rust-oleum High-Heat Silver
-In between each paint is a line of the UPW which is underneath.http://home.comcast.net/~jjcritch/Sh...in%20light.jpg
You can tell I had to take the picture at quite an angle just to get rid of the hot spotting from the "Aluminum" paint. Its like a mirror.
Here is a picture with the samples right in the middle of my MMud screen. This is right in the hot spot as you may be able to tell. The PJ is an Epson 800p LCD.http://home.comcast.net/~jjcritch/Sh...hot%20spot.jpg
It doesn't show here well, but the moral to this whole story is that the whites of the 313White are yellowish. Now maybe this has to do with my technique...but i doubt it.
Here is a picture off the hot spot:http://home.comcast.net/~jjcritch/Sh...spot%20CCP.jpg
As you can see, there is a huge difference in the whites and blacks of the "Aluminum" when it is on and off angle.
The High-Heat paint performs very well. If you are dealing with a "light cannon" of a projector this is definitely the way to go. The whites however are a little too dulled for me.
The 313White performs great. Whites are bright, blacks are deep but that darn yellowing ruins it for me.
Here are some close ups to show the blacks and whites a little better:
Here the white square is 313White/UPW stripe/"aluminum"http://home.comcast.net/~jjcritch/Sh...%20-%20CCP.jpg
Shows the yellowing a little. The "aluminum" streakiness is from the wood texture. It goes to show you how bad this hotspots because each line in the wood shines back like a mirror.
This picture really shows what I got excited about with this expirement:
The blacks from the High-heat silver are amazing. Tryg shows a close up of the paint itself but it is really something you have to see in person. It has almost a gritty surface that is indeed a $5 Firehawk. Best of all, despite the rattle can, the paint goes on flawlessly even.
I will be using this No. 7716 on a screen I am constructing for use with a Infocus LP530 2000 lumen DLP. It is perfect.
However, I am going down in lumens soon with my personal HT and I am not confident in the white levels from this darker paint. What I think I may do is go to Home Depot tomorrow and pick up High-heat White No.7751 and expirement with that.