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THE SONY SERVICE CODES - Articles, Comments, Discoveries - Page 49

post #1441 of 2962
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by daltonlanny View Post

On widescreen or HD images with the black bars above the images there are now a relatively faint red line and blue line just above the picture that run horizontally across the entire screen.

You might have a vertical color-convergence misalignment. You need to display a fine white-line crosshatch pattern from DVE or the AVIA disk (or the first in each series of internal patterns) to see if it's a problem across different types of pictures. You can simulate different zoom and compressed-height situations by setting 2170P-4/IDSW to values higher than 0 (default). (Don't WRITE this one! Return it to zero.)

Unfortunately, vertical misconvergence is a magnet-corrected problem, and you would need to call a service tech to help -- but I got it done under the service warranty.
post #1442 of 2962
Did i hear a hint of the lord's name taken in vain back there, and on Good Friday?? Then again, we all may have different lords so it might not even apply. I should not talk, I went to a Catholic school and I most likely will be having chicken for lunch today, so lightning is more likely to strike me before it gets to my tv antenna. Sorry, just a poor attempt at "Friday" humor.... could not resist.

I digress...

On my set, my calibrator used several test discs to compare the color from my XP-30, (making sure they all produced the same results for dvd/480p). There was even a new test disc he had downloaded online which seemed to interact accurately as well (I cannot remember the name of it, but he liked it). They all seemed to agree that the color slider on 32 (the midde/Pro offset on my set) was about a touch too low for the colors of my dvd player. This was just for my dvd player input, on other inputs for example, color-32 may very well be too high. But for dvd he adjusted SCOL from 32 to 33 to account for the difference - so the color slider could be left in the middle. He felt it better for the colors to be a touch too high than a touch too low. I actually thought the opposite, which is why i changed it back. The difference is very minimal. But yes, I always keep color slider at middle and do colors in SM for each input. I think that's what you were just referring to in your last post to me Ken.

Regarding SBRT, Ken is right. There are several items that adjust black level. I don't fiddle around with these because there are so many controls, my calibrator did fine the first time, and because I'm not quite skilled enough to manipulate all of these accurately.

Raising SBRT alone seems to merely be the same as raising brightness. You can tell there are other factors that come into play, as raising SBRT alone washes out your picture making it look ugly. You can feasibly raise SBRT, but there are other controls like BROF or SBOF and others that probably need to interact as well.

People's user menu settings are often different. If we all had our user menu settings in the middle, then we might be able to compare service menu settings a little more closely. If the set is properly calibrated, the guy who keeps brightness in the middle (50%) will most likely have a different SBRT level then the person who keeps brightness at 60%. A lot of us keep user controls at their offsets for Pro mode, and do the actual calibrating in the SM. This way if someone messes with the user menu, we will always know how to return to the correct settings by either sliding everything back to middle, or hitting "reset" on remote. Of course you have the option to change offsets, although most like the middle since it's easier to remember. My only point, is that if we swap notes on SM settings, we also need to what the user menu settings are at, since they control how much of these things are at use.

Quote:


Originally Posted by daltonlanny
On widescreen or HD images with the black bars above the images there are now a relatively faint red line and blue line just above the picture that run horizontally across the entire screen

daltonlanny - My display has a slight hint of this as well. This was even present right after ISF calibration. I don't think it's much to worry about. Even when my set is converged as tight as possible, there is still a hint of blue poking out behind the cross/line. The reason for this I've heard is because: of the 3 colors, Sony televisions cannot seem to focus the blues as well as the green and red. As for the red line you see as well, all i can tell you is that red is usually the second color to misconverge on my set behind blue. But this is ever so subtle and can be ignored quite easily. Of all the problems i've seen or heard about from other sets, we're doing quite well if this is our only problem.
post #1443 of 2962
Hey guys I need some help. I changed the default settings for GAMM 1(pro mode) in the SM and I didn't write down the default settings. Can anybody tell me what the default settings are? I have the 34xbr910. Thanks for any help
post #1444 of 2962
I guess this post would be for KenTech or anyone familiar with the Audio settings in the Service menu, I went into my 32HS510 service menu and wrote down all 21 audio settings in hopes of getting my XBR960 sounding better , for some reason the HS510 has noticeably better audio especially in the bass output, I had both TV's running the same channel and made sure *all* audio settings in the user menu where matched on both when comparing.

A lot of the service menu defaults are different on my XBR960 so ill be changing those to match my HS510 soon, but the one setting im curious about is #0 ASYS , According to KenTech's info on Audio a value of 1 means enabled and 0 "disables all effects", well on my HS510 this is set to 1 and on my XBR960 its set to 0. When I change it to 1 it sounds a little bit worse to me, Perhaps Sony changed this with the XBR960? I believe 0 means On and 1 is Off in the XBR's case.
post #1445 of 2962
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ragingd View Post

I changed the default settings for GAMM 1(pro mode) in the SM and I didn't write down the default settings. Can anybody tell me what the default settings are? I have the 34xbr910. Thanks for any help

The defaults are likely the same for the XBR960 and other DA-4 sets.

I don't know what you mean by "GAMM 1." For Pro mode and for *all* inputs and video modes, GAMM should be set to 0.

GAMM=0 points to a column in the table for the 4 values of GAMS~GAMB. They all should be set to zero, as well. So if you have set GAMM to 0, check the next four items for 0, too.

Does this answer your question?
post #1446 of 2962
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathesar View Post

A lot of the service menu defaults are different on my XBR960 so ill be changing those to match my HS510 soon, but the one setting im curious about is #0 ASYS , According to KenTech's info on Audio a value of 1 means enabled and 0 "disables all effects", well on my HS510 this is set to 1 and on my XBR960 its set to 0. When I change it to 1 it sounds a little bit worse to me, Perhaps Sony changed this with the XBR960? I believe 0 means On and 1 is Off in the XBR's case.

I think the XBR960 has slightly different speakers (a super-tweeter?) and maybe a different subwoofer than my huge 36XS955. But the charts show the same 21-parameter list for all of these sets.

ASYS is the switch that turns on all audio effects, such as equalizer and tone controls. 1 is ON.

TRCV, BACV, and MDCV (treble, bass, midrange) determine the qualitative *behavior* of the EQ controls -- whether they're manual adjustments or somehow dynamic (volume-dependent). What I determined was that when they were all set to 2, I had the equivalent of a three-band equalizer in the parameters STRE, SBAS, and MIDL (again, treble, bass, and midrange). I got very uncolored sound by setting those three thus:

(In group order) MIDL=6, SBAS=7, and STRE=9. SInce you have an XBR960, your tweeters might be more aggressive than mine, and maybe a lower STRE would work better.

I don't remember what I concluded about SVHI amd SVLO, but I have them both at the default 4.

LOFQ has something to do with deep bass. I raised it from 0 to 5. Lovely!

I have not determined exactly what MIDT, TRFQ, and PSEF do, and so I left them at default values of 0, 7, and 5.

AGCL determines how the (poor) auto-volume level feature works (SteadySound), and I found it ineffective at the default of 9. I have since changed it to 2, but the feature isn't very sophisticated, anyway.

I got get very effective "theater-bass" enhancement from the TruSurround feature, by leaving the five values of BBE~BB2L at their defaults of 1-5-4-5-4.

When TruSurround is on:
BBE seems to be a switch for treble, with 1 = ON. I leave it at 1.
BBEP affects upper-midrange-treble. Can make sound nasal or distant-sounding.
BBEL and BB2L are for (I think) bass and deep bass. (It's possible I have those descriptions reversed; but it's easy to tell when you're listening to a thumpy sound track.)
I have no idea what BB2P does yet.

I have left TRS1 and TRS2 at the defautls of 4 and 2.

So . . . this means that my current, very satisfactory settings are, in order:

1-2-2-2-4-4-6-5-7-0-9-7-5-2 -- 1-5-4-5-4 -- 4-2

The charts imply that the "BB" or bass-boost settings also affect the other audio modes (Off, SteadySound, etc.). I haven't experimented. I perceive that the sound is less warm with much less (or less exaggerated) deep bass when I shut off TruSurround, but I haven't yet tried to EQ "Off" to match TruSurround. Maybe that's a lost cause.

I have to say: As an exprienced audiophile, I am very impressed with the sound of this TV! Voice was honky out of the box, and there was some kind of annoying dynamic audio thing going on, until I set up TRCV, BACV, and MDCV at 2 and made EQ adjustments, as detailed above. Now I'm very pleased. (Some of the models may not have subwoofers, by the way.)

While I was working on the audio settings, it seemed to me that the 3 settings of TRCV~MDCV were "remembered" even after a power-cycle with no WRITE. But unplugging and replugging the set always "erased" the errant settings, returning them to normal.
post #1447 of 2962
Once again thanks for your informative post!

Quote:
Originally Posted by KenTech View Post

ASYS is the switch that turns on all audio effects, such as equalizer and tone controls. 1 is ON.

I believe this is backwards on XBR960's , After further testing with ASYS setting it to 1 is definately DISABLING something , I was playing MP3 tracks on my Xbox360 and when setting ASYS to 1 *all* bass output is lost and it sounds very flat, using the default 0 settings sounds much better with way more bass output.
post #1448 of 2962
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathesar View Post

I believe this is backwards on XBR960's , After further testing with ASYS setting it to 1 is definately DISABLING something , I was playing MP3 tracks on my Xbox360 and when setting ASYS to 1 *all* bass output is lost and it sounds very flat, using the default 0 settings sounds much better with way more bass output.

This really is a puzzle! Why would this trivial switch be reversed between two examples of the same chassis? Weird, indeed!
post #1449 of 2962
Can I get some quick tips to fix my green issue?
Certain scenes or objects in the scene just seem to green.
I have these set to GYR-6 and GYB-3.
I think the green issue is only happening in dark scenes. Is that a grayscale issue?
Any tips would help or else I'll have to finish reading all 50 pages
post #1450 of 2962
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenTech View Post

This really is a puzzle! Why would this trivial switch be reversed between two examples of the same chassis? Weird, indeed!

It's been a while since I tweaked the "audio"(it's not all that important as I usually use "external" audio) - therefore I forget some of the "details" -- but If I recall correctly believe I'm getting the same results as Mathesar with my XBR960 concerning ASYS ....

In any case, here is what I ended up preferring :

ASYS - 0
TRCV - 2
BACV - 2
MDCV - 2
SVHI - 4
SVLO - 4
MIDL - 6
LOFQ - 5
SBAS - 7
MIDT - 0
STRE - 9
TRFQ - 7
PSEF - 5
AGCL - 4

BBE+TRS1/2 settings remain at defaults.
post #1451 of 2962
Quote:
Originally Posted by mortaldivine View Post

Can I get some quick tips to fix my green issue?
Certain scenes or objects in the scene just seem to green.
I have these set to GYR-6 and GYB-3.
I think the green issue is only happening in dark scenes. Is that a grayscale issue?
Any tips would help or else I'll have to finish reading all 50 pages

Is it the GCUT or GDRV I should try? Im confused on the difference between GCUT, GDRV, GYR and GYB. I have the Avia disk. Is there a specific pattern I can use to correct this?
post #1452 of 2962
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mortaldivine View Post

Is it the GCUT or GDRV I should try? Im confused on the difference between GCUT, GDRV, GYR and GYB. I have the Avia disk. Is there a specific pattern I can use to correct this?

For grayscale only, use any gray step-scale pattern from any test DVD or turn down the Color slider all the way on any program material. _CUT works at the near-black end of the brightness scale; use to adjust darkest tone to be neutral. _DRV (drive) works at the white end of the scale. Adjust to establish the color of neutral white (color temperature). You should be able to achieve a near-perfect black-and-white picture with no colorations.

RYR, RYB, GYR, and GYB have *nothing* to do with grayscale. They determine how color is balanced when there's color in the program. Here's where the test patterns (color bars, the 75% color blocks on DVE, flashing color segments on AVIA, etc.) really make it easy. Follow the instructions on the disk. *After* you adjust for the *amount* of color with the Color slider (the blue filter or blue guns only), you can adjust the above four color-decoding parameters using red and green filters/guns. (Turning on individual colors with 2170P-2/SRGB is way prefereble to the color filters!)

I'll bet you have grayscale issues, and you can do very well if you just set the above RYR~GYB series to 14-14-6-4, and work on grayscale. Getting the grayscale right is *very* important.
post #1453 of 2962
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitewatchman View Post

In any case, here is what I ended up preferring :

ASYS - 0

Yep. Another example of the mystery. Note that even the service-manual charts for the XBR960 show ASYS=1 as the default.
post #1454 of 2962
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenTech View Post

Yep. Another example of the mystery. Note that even the service-manual charts for the XBR960 show ASYS=1 as the default.

Hrm no big deal I guess but 0 is certainly the default on my XBR960, Also in your Improving The AUDIO thread you mention this at the bottom of the page:

Quote:


For the 34XBR960, Sony's data chart lists 0-2-0-2-4-4-10-0-8--10--5-9. (The first value of 0 has to be a misprint!)

Perhaps its not a misprint after all?

I was able to improve the audio by changing everything to my 32HS510's default values and then slightly tweaking it from there, It now has better bass response and got rid of the annoying upper midrange loudness it has by default, It's still not quite as good as the HS510 overall but at least I got some improvement out of it.
post #1455 of 2962
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenTech View Post

For grayscale only, use any gray step-scale pattern from any test DVD or turn down the Color slider all the way on any program material. _CUT works at the near-black end of the brightness scale; use to adjust darkest tone to be neutral. _DRV (drive) works at the white end of the scale. Adjust to establish the color of neutral white (color temperature). You should be able to achieve a near-perfect black-and-white picture with no colorations.

RYR, RYB, GYR, and GYB have *nothing* to do with grayscale. They determine how color is balanced when there's color in the program. Here's where the test patterns (color bars, the 75% color blocks on DVE, flashing color segments on AVIA, etc.) really make it easy. Follow the instructions on the disk. *After* you adjust for the *amount* of color with the Color slider (the blue filter or blue guns only), you can adjust the above four color-decoding parameters using red and green filters/guns. (Turning on individual colors with 2170P-2/SRGB is way prefereble to the color filters!)

I'll bet you have grayscale issues, and you can do very well if you just set the above RYR~GYB series to 14-14-6-4, and work on grayscale. Getting the grayscale right is *very* important.

When I look at those gray steps on my avai dvd, I dont see any colorization besides besides black, white and gray...no green. So does that mean its not a grayscale issue?
post #1456 of 2962
I need a little help setting the RYR-RYB-GYR-GYB codes.

I have the Avia disk with the filters but there's three colors and four settings. I'd like to be more systematic about this than just blindly changing things. What do each of the four settings stand for?

I currently have them set at 13-15-5-3 but skintones still seem too red. Where do I go from here?
post #1457 of 2962
hidesertforester -

I am currently debating between 13-15-5-3 and 14-14-6-4. Most folks here will tell you that 14-14-6-4 is the closest to perfection - in adherence to color calibration and realistic skin tones. I think 14-14-6-4 looks the closest and most realistic, and eliminates a bit of the redness you're seeing in favor of very realistic skin tones.

My consensus is that the best colors lie somewhere between 13-15-5-3 and 14-14-6-4. When i ran this by my calibrator, he told me that indeed, the most precise colors usually end up being in-between some of the numbers. (Like RYR would be best at 13.5 as opposed to 14). Of all the settings though, 14-14-6-4 seems to get the closest given all the variables.

I think there's a tad too much green with 14-14-6-4, while a tad too much red in 13-15-5-3. Both work very well with the color calibration, as well as visually testing out with dvd material for realism. Of everything, those 2 color decoding patterns look the best of everything i've seen. 13-15-5-3 seems to be easier on the eyes, which is why i prefer that to 14-14-6-4. (it could be that reds are easier to see than greens -- making the picture seem sharper -- but that's just my own theory). But ignoring that, i think 14-14-6-4 gives a slight edge for realism, and seems to agree a little more with the Avia color patterns.

Again, each will get you extremely close. I personally think the best setting would lie somewhere in-between what i mentioned above. As one setting i feel has a tad more green, while the other has a bit more red. We're talking extreme precision here, but overall i think 14-14-6-4 "looks" the best. If the 13-15 setting didn't create a little less eye-train for me with my display, i would go with the 14-14 one for sure.

I understand you don't want to "blindly" set them. Someone else here can give you a description of what RYR is as opposed to RYB. I have understood the former to be color saturation, while the other is tint. There is a way to calibrate them based on an avia color pattern. Again, someone else can tell you exactly how to go about that, and why there are 4 controls, as opposed to 6. But after color calibration, about 90% of us have come out to a result that's one of the 2 settings i mentioned above. Most, who are the most accurate and precise, come out to 14-14-6-4.
post #1458 of 2962
For me it was either 14-14-6-4 or 15-15-6-4.

I choose the first one because the second one while good red was a bit desaturated, the first one is dead on by using DVE.

Same thing goes for SBRT at 28 or 29 i still can't seem to find a hapy medium and it seems the pefect setting is something in between like 28.5.
post #1459 of 2962
Well, I back with a new round of questions regarding the proportions of my 34" 955. I have been trying to optimize the picture geometry and made a discovery: my 4:3 (Normal) mode picture measured 21 1/4" by 16 3/4". Not quite 4:3. So, I need to extend the horizontal length to around 22". It seems the only way I can accomplish this is with the Blanking parameters. Is this correct? My thoughts are: if I have the raster sized correctly and the picture sized correctly on the raster, then the scaling that is performed by the image processor will be more correct. I start to see fewer artifacts if the picture proportions are correct. So, the correct raster size is my first priority.
The service manual's outline of the raster centering seems weird to me (with the AGNG setting and LANG settings?!?) At any rate, I guess I should only concern myself with the adjustments in "Full"mode.
My other issue is shown below:
[IMG]Bottom[/IMG]
I am at a loss for a way of removing this hideous shift. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Bryan
LL
post #1460 of 2962
Just to enter my own comment on the 13-15-5-3 vs. 14-14-6-4 debate, I have settled on 13-15-5-4 (note that last digit is truly 4, not 3). And I'm guessing the values one settles on is related to other values you have set elsewhere (in the user menu specifically) which also relate to color. Also, the particular input and source on that input is clearly quite relevant.

For example, while I have PRO set, I also have "color temp = cool" and "color axis = default". Obviously these user menu "tilts" affect how 13-15-5-4 (in the service menu) looks to me.

I have different user menu values for each of the four inputs I utilize (two SD and two HD), and 13-15-5-4 seems to provide perfectly realistic color to me on each of the following:

INPUT1: (D* satellite via S-video), picture=39, bright=33, color=34, hue=0, sharp=21, DRC=progressive

INPUT3: (JVC 40K for S-VHS via S-video), picture=40, bright=34, color=34, hue=0, sharp=19, DRC=progressive

INPUT5: (SD DVD player at 480p via component), picture=34, bright=36, color=36, hue=G1, sharp=min, DRC=cinemotion

INPUT6: (720p/1080i from DCT6412, JVC DT100U, JVC 40k, all via component), picture=35, bright=32, color=31, hue=0, sharp=min, DRC=n/a


Note: 13-15-5-4 (for me) was decided upon after using DVE to adjust color and brightness in the user menu. The adjustment was done while watching Leno, which in my opinion is a reference-quality show that has overall excellent color and lots of skin tone to adjust for. There was a decided red push before adjusting these four color controls in 2170P-4, and the final values were settled on using Leno's show as the benchmark.
post #1461 of 2962
I think i've now settled on 13-15-5-3. I've compared that to 14-14-6-4 many times. They are both VERY close with the color test. I think the former has a more attractive look to it personally. I can compare the 2 all night on dvd scenes, and they both look accurate and realistic. And between those, I think the 13-15 one has a more attractive look to it. It tones down the greens just a little, while upping the reds just a hint... while still looking realistic.

I thought that while the 14-14-6-4 had a bit more of a realistic skin tone, it had a little too much green, and dulled the image for me. The 13-15-5-3 worked just as well with the calibration, and also happens to have a more vivid/punchier (but still realistic) image.
post #1462 of 2962
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathesar
Hrm no big deal I guess but 0 is certainly the default on my XBR960, Also in your Improving The AUDIO thread you mention this at the bottom of the page: Perhaps its not a misprint after all?
Well, not a misprint, exactly. There is considerable ambiguity in Sonys own documentation, and I think we have to guess at what applies to our particular sets. It certainly confused me! See attached files for clarification.

I have two revisions of the DA-4 service manual, publication #9-965-965-01 of 6/2004 (Rev01Cover.pdf) and the latest available last spring, rev 2/2005 #9-965-965-05 (Rev05Cover.pdf).

The tables for AUDIO are different. (Rev01+05Tables.pdf) I now see that the earlier one (top) shows ASYS=0 and a set of values identified as KD-34XBR960 Service Data Only, even though the manual is identified as applying to all of the DA-4 sets (see cover).

The later manual, with the same cover but listing many revisions, has a table (bottom) whose heading says KD-30XS955...36XS955 Service Data Only, but also shows to the right of the data: 34XBR/34XS/30XS/36XS. What are we to make of this?

Finally the values listed as none actually contain values in my 36XS955: MIDT=0 and TRFQ=7, both defaults. Maybe none means that tese settings are there but have no effect if changed. I havent tested them lately.

Based on this, I say: Use your ears! If ASYS=0 is the obvious choice for your model. and ASYS=1 obviously turns off everything of value to you, use ASYS=0 and consider the values in the earlier table as your defualts. In my case the later table reresented my 36XS955 perfectly as delivered, and Im going from there. You can see why I thought ASYS=1 was a universal default setting! Sorry for the confusion; it looks like the XBR960 is different, indeed.

This is yet another example of ambiguity or error in the service manuals; there are quite a few other examples, too!

 

Rev01Cover.pdf 30.1015625k . file

 

Rev05Cover.pdf 47.3984375k . file

 

Rev01+05Tables.pdf 53.7421875k . file
post #1463 of 2962
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Napoleon D View Post

I am currently debating between 13-15-5-3 and 14-14-6-4. Most folks here will tell you that 14-14-6-4 is the closest to perfection - in adherence to color calibration and realistic skin tones. I think 14-14-6-4 looks the closest and most realistic, and eliminates a bit of the redness you're seeing in favor of very realistic skin tones. My consensus is that the best colors lie somewhere between 13-15-5-3 and 14-14-6-4.

You have, of course, two user-menu "Color Axis" settings, Default and Monitor, that you can set up any way you like. I hope you are taking full advantage of this to test out your settings preferences.
post #1464 of 2962
To follow-up my first question, I should ask people who know: Is the scaling by the image processor applied based on the size of the raster itself or the picture that is layered over the raster. I ask because based on the picture of the huge image shift shown on the internal crosshatch pattern I provided in my last post, this shift is only translated to the screen when watching cable. It does not manifest in the picture if I am viewing a DVD. Is there an explanation for this?
I am still having a hard time getting the proportions of my screen (like when viewing a crosshatch pattern) to be linear from top to bottom and left to right. I have tried the VLIN and VSCO for vert and SLIN for horizontal, but there is always some compression of the image in various places. That is why I am trying to start with a correctly sized raster and go from there. Do geometry settings affect the raster or image? I'm sure I can work this out, I just need some of the basic concepts explained.
Also, I think I have my raster size and positions in general agreement with the service manual, but this makes my MID2 settings seem quite extreme. Some even run out of room to adjust all together. Does anyone have a better/more systematic approach to working out this raster sizing? Specifically, how do you make sure you are viewing the raster's edge? My process starts with shrinking the raster to a low number and then expanding the picture with the MID2 settings until the edge of the picture (again, the internal 1080 crosshatch pattern) just starts to disappear. This, to me, seems to identify the raster edge. Am I completely wrong?
Please lend me some advice and thank you for your time.

Bryan
post #1465 of 2962
Quote:
You have, of course, two user-menu color-matrix settings that you can set up any way you like. (They're called, what?, Monitor and Normal?) I hope you are taking full advantage of this to test out your settings preferences.

I don't believe have those options on my user menu. This might be another example of different displays, different settings.

Quick sidenote - my color decoding settings did not work for the Toshiba HD player. But perhaps their colors may need to be calibrated differently altogether. By the way, this player upconverts beautifully for SD dvd's. It produces a better image than the XP.... a little better. And that is saying a lot! But that discussion is for another thread.
post #1466 of 2962
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Napoleon D View Post

I don't believe have those options on my user menu. This might be another example of different displays, different settings.

Not even under the "Advanced"settings? It's really called "Color Axis," and the choices are Default and Monitor.
post #1467 of 2962
Quote:
Not even under the "Advanced"settings? It's really called "Color Axis," and the choices are Default and Monitor.

In my advanced menu, for my KP-57ws520, there is no color axis feature in the User Menu.

There is a color value called "Axis" in the service menu. The value of this "axis" ranges from 0 to 3. Out-of-the-box, each axis value referred to a different color decoding pattern. This is similar to how the mide/pop value points to different set of mide columns. So...for the sake of science, I tried setting each axis value to the same pattern (14-14-6-4 for example), and then toggled through each of the Axis's, and i saw no difference. I currently have axis set to "1."
post #1468 of 2962
My new CRT finally arrived yesterday. In the interim I took the television down to the bare plastic parts, fixed any nicks, sanded with very fine wet paper, cleaned with ammonia/water solution & painted the set gloss black with Fussion for plastic followed by 1500 grit sanding before laying down the final wet coat.

The set looks like a beautiful piano gloss black now to match my entertainment equipment. Makes the set look less bulky & the black actually improves the picture a little. I do not recommend anyone do this unless they are out of warranty, have a few nicks, happen to need a new CRT & are unhappy with gray.

I was pleasantly surprised to have lucked out & gotten an American made CRT which is becoming rare.

Installed it into the set & put the chassis back in. Fired it up & to my amazement it was almost dead-on upon initial fire up. I plan to let the tube burn in for a while before going through the entire setup, high voltage, purity, convergence & calibration. Right now it looks almost as good as any set looks right out of the box. Looks like this tube will not require any magnets at all.

My set also had a problem with the "BY" board which I repaired myself by replacing the CXA2170Q IC. That was a most delicate soldering job. 64 pins that are extremely close together.

Set has been up & running for 18 hours now & is working fine. This picture tube is much crisper than the one that was in it before.

Looking forward to what this set will do once dialed in.

Will be playing with the internal patterns, my generator & KenTech's patterns along with the DVE disc. Time to have a little fun with this thing.
post #1469 of 2962
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Napoleon D View Post

So...for the sake of science, I tried setting each axis value to the same pattern (14-14-6-4 for example), and then toggled through each of the Axis's, and i saw no difference. I currently have axis set to "1."

But all you've proved is that, when you set them all the same, they look the same. It seems to me you'd want to set the four columns to *different* values, and *then* cycle through the four values of AXIS to see how the four settings-groups differ. (The bummer is that you can't do this outside of service mode.)
post #1470 of 2962
How do I enter the service menu on my 36XS955? Thanks
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