THE SONY SERVICE CODES - Articles, Comments, Discoveries - Page 50

What I was trying to prove here -- by seeing that all four axis values all look alike with the same 4 values of color decoding each -- is that you can have a choice of up to 4 color decoding settings among the several inputs. The value you have for "Axis" on each input is not global, but the color decoding pattern linked to it is. In other words, for component you could have Aixis=2, while for HDMI have Axis=1. From what i'm understanding, you don't have to settle on one color decoding pattern for all of the inputs.

I did not see the significance of cycling through the 4 Axis values too much. All i had to do was take note of which RYB-GYB pattern was linked to each Axis value. I would get the same effect by merely entering in each of these respective color decoding patterns into say, Axis-0, to see how they looked.

I still have the default values, for the other Axis's i'm not using, stored in there -- since i'm not 100% sure the full effect of changing axis, and to keep original settings in tact. I am keeping my Axis how it is, although i was very curious to know how it truly functions. It seems to me it only points to the 4 different color decoding values. If it's not doing anything else than that, then what i said might be true, but if it affects something else, then not.

Does anyone out there know the full effect of the "Axis" value? All that i said above is just a guess from what i've seen, if i'm wrong someone correct me.

I think my posts got lost in the shuffle. Could anyone respond to my posts #1460 and #1465.

Thank you,

Bryan

Bryan,

AFIK, the image is displayed within the raster. The Sony should be aligned from the factory with the raster centered. All of the SM adjustments align the picture within the raster.

It's been a while since I have done the geometry on a Sony DV, however my approach has been to do the master geometry in 2170D-1/2/3, first, then use the MID1/2/3 to tweak the individual configurations. It can be very time consuming and may need to go through the whole process many times to converge on a final configuration that works for all inputs.

The severe image shift in your picture is usually from the image being shifted too far. At times, on some TVs, the only way to eliminate this is with overscan.

It is also best if you can use a source test pattern. Internal test patterns are fine, however your source may shift the image or be sized slightly different.

Thank you for the reply, Glen! Regarding the shift at the bottom, you stated that it was from the image being shifted too far. Could you elaborate?
Also, would color banding (false contours) come from the inadequicies of the source material or is it a function of the interal processing of the monitor? (Both?)
I am trying to "scientifically" decipher the "cause and effect" of the adjustments I am making.
Again, thanks for your time.

Bryan

I checked my GDRV and GCUT and they are both set to 24. If I turn it down past 18, it starts to go red. I know every TV can be different but what do you guys have yours set to?

How did I miss that?? Thanks Ken

I'm trying to set screen (g2) on the flyback & the technical manual is not clear.

It says to input a white field into Video 1.

Set to service mode & adjust as follows:

Fig 1. CXA2170P-2 PICO 1->0

The operation procedure says:

1) In full mode, apply changes in figure 1.

2) Mount G2 adjustment jig. Adjust cathode voltage if the standard is not met. Standard varies by CRT size.

3) Adjust G2 by flyback transformer (t8001).

4) Return data changes in 1) to original condition.

The only standard listed is 170 +/- 5 Vdc

My question is where do you get the adjustment jig? The tech manual does not specify which pin to take the measurement from or where any jumpers would be installed.

Anyone familiar with this or have a tech manual that is more clear than mine? If this is not the right forum any help pointing me to the correct one would be appreciated.

I think I have it set close enough now but I wanted to follow procedure. Everywhere I have looked everyone seems a little confused about Sony's procedure on this.

If this thread wasn't 74+ pages, I wouldn't posting this.

I need to fix the overscan on my television. I have the 30HD420. The overscan is nearly an inch off, it's bad. How do I go about fixing this?

Dorn - or if you can't find anything on AVS-search (you should be able to find a lot with the right search) try doing a google search for "fix overscan." I saw a couple websites that might lead you in the right direction.

Everyone else - I talked a little earlier about this, and searched the site and didn't find much. What is the function of the "Axis" value in the service menu? It sounds like a lot of you have a color axis feature in your user menus. On my set, there is none, but in the service menu, adjacent to the color decoder values (RYR-GYB) there is a value called "Axis." I discussed it above briefly in what i've found with it. After experimenting more, I've found that the image seems a little different when switching "axis" from 0 to 1, even when each is linked to the same color-decoder sequences.

On another note, I found a color-decoding pattern I like a little better. I calibrated my set to 14-14-4-3, it seemed the best with the DVE test pattern. It also aesthetically looks the best for dvd's. I liked 14-14-6-4, and as uniform as it looks on the DVE pattern, I felt the greens showed up just a touch too dark on the pattern, which was evident in dvd's (there seemed to be a slight push of green in many scenes). 13-15-5-3 worked as well, eliminating the greens but adding a bit too much red i thought. I was searching for some compromise, and found 14-14-4-3 as working rather well to balance things off. Another fellow with my same display also found this. There seems to be no push of one color with this.

It just took me about 30 seconds to use the "search" this thread function for "overscan" and pull out a couple of helpful posts out of the 128 results for the search which turned up. Here are a couple of links to a couple of those posts which should hopefully be useful :

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post6261395

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post6260514

The "search this thread" function is very useful ... However, as one who has followed along with this thread from the very beginning - to get the most use of it, there is probably no substitiute for spending quite a bit of time researching and "pulling out" the info from this thread that you're interested in. Certianly, it is unfortunate there is a lot to "wade" through for someone new to this thread, but that's just the way things are. Also, you'll find updated and "improved" or corrected/etc. info in some cases in later posts, so in some cases you don't want to necessary use the info from the first "post" you find on any given subject. I think that's what works best on a forum/thread such as this -- Read and research and try to find what you are looking for first, and *then*, when/if necessary - ask questions.

In my case, when I was following along with this thread, I copied the info/posts I was most interested in and put them in a Word Doc file. Sorry, I can't forward that to anyone that might be interested as I also included placed quite a few PM's in the document and it would be extremely difficult to remove those + only include the "public" posts, and I also became *neligent* in updating the document when I began spending more time posting .... Besides, that file is about 150pages long, so it's not necessarily going to be much easier to sift through for folks looking for "quick" info on a specific subject ....

I just don't think we can keep repeating info over+over+over again(that's one of the reasons this thread is as long as it is), as, for one thing it requires "beyond the call of duty" effort from the folks who are providing the excellent info(probaby Ken in particular). I also expect in many cases the poster asking questions+looking for "quick" answers will spend just as much time(along with the poster who is trying to answer his questions) with "new" posts rehashing info that has been posted before(often in *extreme* detail) as would be the case via a little research ...

If anyone happens to have a lot of extra time on their hands -- I've often thought that a post with an "index" to the URL's to the most useful posts in this thread might be very useful for new folks ... Perhaps someone(or a "group" of folks) who are going back through this thread and pulling out the most useful posts could do this without it being a lot of "extra" work for them ....

Just my .02 cents FWIW ....

My opinion is: if you don't want to spend the time to read and learn, then hire a local calibrator to fix it for you. You won't have to spend the time to read the thread and won't have to spend all the time to fix overscan.

One thing to note here, many that get involved in "tweaking", will generally spend more time tweaking than reading the thread. There is a wealth of information in this thread, thanks to the countless hours of tweaking and analyzing that has been done by a few participants.

It's really lame to see a thread 1400+ posts long and just ask for a quick fix answer.

The "value" to me in reading through this whole thread has been tremendous. At first, I admit that I wanted to quickly "tweak" to perfection. So I started from the beginning. I only needed to read the first few pages to learn that "quick" was an unrealistic expectation, and "tweak" was a wholly unrealistic approach.

The first lesson I gained in reading this thread was "process." That what I wanted to do meant beginning a process, for both the tv and for my education. I haven't gotten very far yet. Along with a proper Avia user menu calibration, I have adjusted for overscan, picture centering and size, red push, and various "sharpness" adjustments in the SM. That's it! I will do much more but I like to really test my adjustments over decent periods of time to decide if I even like what I've done. And from my job I learned that you change one thing at a time in order to discern what adjustment caused what change.

I so appreciate all of those who have contributed to this thread. I get so much out of the give and take on each subject, and the times when they get revisited as new info comes to light. More and more I'm inclined to refuse to give out quick-fix SM adjustments. So often, I learn that the person I thought I was helping failed to record original values, or something else and is now posting all over the place trying to get more quick-fixes. On another forum I frequent, the mods and regulars have resorted to "read the FAQ" or "read this sticky." I think that's where I'm headed.

Excellent posts GlenC+Justsc! I couldn't agree more with everything in your posts ...

Also I hope Dorn doesn't take our responses the wrong way -- As I was thinking it might appear as if we are "picking on him" and singling him out, since it's certianly not the first time such a comment as "I don't want to dig through this thread to find the answer" has been posted here ... I just think it's good several of us have pointed out some of the "problems" involved with that "approach" .....

I do hope someone can answer AncientOne's question about the jig for G2 voltage adjustment, as I don't think the issue in this case involves a question that has been answered previously in the thread, instead I suspect no-one has came across an adequete answer for him yet ... It in fact may be one of the very few questions posed on this thread(if not the only one!) which has not, as of yet received an adequete response ....


Just to add .... Let's see ... How can I put this as I don't mean for this to sound like an "ad" for ISF calibration, and personally I enjoy "doing it myself" as much as possible(to the best of my ability+with the tools+info I have available) ....

But if it's solely the *cost* of a "Pro" calibration that is an issue for folks -- my opinion is --- don't let it be - As perhaps unless you're already very familiar with the "workings" of your particular set(and even then, I suspect you're still going to end up spending a lot of time on it) -- By the time you're "done" and have spent many many hours researching and working on your set --- I suspect It is extremely likely You *will* have felt you've put much more time and effort into it than the cost of a calibration ....

wow this thread has been good to me : ]

I have one question, is there a way to influence the refresh-rate on the 34955? I can see that I get some ghosting with bright games (60fps or more) that have contrasting black backgrounds --- just a little light trail.

I remember reading somewhere in this massive thread about being able to crank your refresh-rate up to 80hz... or maybe i was mistaken ..... maybe confused...

thanks, makes sense : ] much appreciated ---

I had a brilliant time tonight with the MID-1 settings --- they work for adjusting my 1080i when using my 360 --- I was able to get rid of almost ALL of the overscan --- for reference, I am able to see the ENTIRE blue HUD in GRAW (when before It would mostly crop out, with just 2170D-2 deflection adjusted --- and out of the box none of the blue HUD was visible)
here's a shot of GRAW: http://media.xbox360.ign.com/media/7...g_3441518.html

since my geometry was pretty good out of the box (and I just had 2170D-2 settings adjusted to account for overscan) I was able to revert back to my "out of box" settings and go with the MID-1 adjustments ---

it just seems too damn good to be true, a CRT with this little overscan --- something must be wrong ----- the image looks so insanely good, sized correctly, and I'm able to view almost the entire game resolution (it doesn't seem that "zoomed" effect that large overscan gives on some games)

if anyone experements with the MID-1 setting let me know what your experience is, and I'll keep you guys updated.

I posted some pictures over in the KD30XS955 thread of a problem I'm having with my set. It was suggested that this problem might be fixable using codes in the service menu. I've searched this thread for variations on my problem, but I don't think I know the correct search terms to use. Based on the images in this post, do you think this is a problem that is addressable using the service menus? I'm trying to figure out if this is a warranty issue or not.

I also posted some more details here and here.

To summarize, I see mostly green (sometimes blue) fringes on the left side of 4:3 content, no matter the source or input selected. I also see green fringes inside the image in areas of high contrast edges, such as the side of a face against a dark background. Finally, the lines that form the boxes in the menus seem to be discolored. Horizontal lines are grey, but vertical lines are all blueish. I don't think this is normal. I've scanned this thread and searched for things like "green edges," "green fringe," etc, but I haven't found anything that fits. As I said above, I may not know the correct search terms to use for this issue. Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated.

As a side note, I had warranty service on this set to address some red scanlines, and the tech said the lines were just coming from the signal source. I hadn't really noticed the problems along the sides of faces and other places yet, so I didn't have any reason to dispute him then.

I think it may have been in here somewhere but i cant find it...

when i shrink my screen horizontally to check for overscan, i notice that about 1/2 of an inch at the VERY bottom is all slanted 90 degree's to the left.. this is normally hidden by the frame of the tv as they set it to be overscann at the factory, i find it odd tho that only the bottom does this.. Normal? any way to fix?..

also there's no tilt controll on these things is there, i find mine is SLIGHTLY to the right a bit too much...

Jinx,
I have a picture of the problem you describe in my post #1460. It seems that there are a lot of people having this problem, but I still haven't heard any suggestions to correct it. Guess we are locked into 5%+ overscan all around! HOORAY!!!
I am also trying to find others that have a newish 955 model and can tell me how they are adjusting the 1080 and 480 picture modes when we don't have the MID3 settings that everyone else has. It would be nice to be able to adjust the screen and verify that there is a 1:1 translation of the image. Any information on how to check that would be appreciated.

...end rant.

Bryan

Yep thats my problem exactly! looks like you have better geometry tho than me...

So are the files in the first post dead? I cannot seem to download them.

The trails go away after a while, just give the tv time. As the tv ages it starts to get unnoticeable.

I've had my sony 34hs420 for almost 3 years now and i don't notice any trailing anymore.I had trailing like you when it was new but after a while it starts to go away.There is also reasons why it's so apparent, one could be too high a contrast setting or too low a brightness settings..either one can cause mtrailing if set too high or low.

I've been trying to get the geometry right on my kv-30hs420 for quite some time now. The problem I am experiencing is that no matter how much I work to straighten the entire grid, I just can't seem to get the top left corner to align.

I took a photo of it and would really appreciate any advice/info what-so-ever on the issue. The angle is a bit off on the photo, but its enough to get an idea of what I am talking about.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Click here for photo

Reading (parts of) this thread has been a very informative and enlightening experience. It has been exactly what I was looking for, KenTech you are the best-est! I've been reading it for about two days now and my display model KV34HS420 is now looking WAY better than it did before I got it. When I first started reading these posts they were dated about a year ago and the topic is still live and kicking today! I haven't read all the pages, or even close, but I did follow all the guides in the early pages.

I seem to have almost all my issues fixed except for:

1 - A convergence issue I haven't seen mentioned yet, but I am still searching the thread. It seems related to the tilt control. It's as if the red is at 'tilt 1' and the blue is at 'tilt -1'. Basically, in the top left corner I can notice a slight red convergence artifact on top of the white horizontal grid lines. In the top right corner I can notice a slight blue artifact on top of the horizontal. If I could do a tilt on just the red or the blue, just a tiny bit, it would fix all the little convergence issues in the corners of my set, as far as I can tell. From what I've been reading, this is a magnet issue. But it seems like the 'tilt' function could fix this if it allows you to do a separate 'tilt' for each color. Of course, maybe that is something you need magnets for as well.

2 - I have a slight purity issue in the upper left corner, and another slight purity issue on the edge right by RUMB. I understand these might be fixable with the 'landing' settings, so I am searching more on that now. What I can't find is where the landing settings are on the KV34HS420? Is it supposed to be a catagory in the SM, because I don't seem to have one. If not, which catagory is it in?

Thanks for all your .jpgs and .pdfs KenTech! They really have helped to turn this floor model TV into something that almost looks brand new!

Convergence on the horizontal lines cannot be done in the SM.

Would the photo I posted represent a covergence issue? I've been a bit confused as to why I cant get the upper left corner to align.

Click here for photo

Jinx,
I've got a 2wk old 30XS955 that has the same 2 vertical "lines" in the same area as you've posted about on your set.
I was just wandering how noticable they are now after a few months and if you've been able to reduce them with some SM work.

Tom H.