THE SONY SERVICE CODES - Articles, Comments, Discoveries - Page 56

One, I have never stated you have to have the grayscale at 6500K to enjoy viewing. I have merely stated that I strive for an accurate grayscale as close to D65 as possible. Additionally, with my equipment, I can be relatively sure I did not error plus green.

I will say, just as 2 + 2 = 4, if a movie is mastered at D65 and white is displayed at any other color temperature, what you are seeing is different from the original or intended. Can you tell the difference?, depends on the variance. In a technical sense (this is measurable), if white is plus blue, from D65, then the secondary colors, with blue (magenta and cyan), will also be off (plus blue). Each of the NTSC and HDTV primary and secondary colors have specific CIE x/y coordinates defining the colorspace.

CRT TVs strong point is color fidelity, because SMPTE developed the color space around the available colors of phosphor. The CRT weak point is geometry and focus. Compromise is necessary with all displays, none exist that are the best on all points. The best CRT DV would probably be the Sony BVM series, for serious dollars. I have a BVM-1310 13 that is NTSC only, 480i, however displays an awesome picture from a DVD via component. This was originally a $5K monitor.

As for improving the grayscale from factory that can be a tough task, by eye. Generally, the 960s I have seen, have been within 200K to 300K of 6500K and some within 200K throughout the entire grayscale. Geometry is another thing, it can be all over the place, magnetics..

Those of you that have calibrated your own TVs, care to tell us the number of hours you have invested?

I really don't understand how some can take comments about ISF calibration trying to achieve a D65 grayscale, for a paying customer, as anything more than providing a deserved/expected level of professional service. I don't care if you have a 5500K low IRE and a 12000K white grayscale.

There is nothing un-scientific about using calibrated measuring equipment to set the grayscale to the industry standard.

Time is the issue for me.

I have the technical "chops" to learn what I need from this thread and perform a DIY calibration, thanks to KenTech. But the time would be prohibitive. And it's just a personal thing. The number of extracirricular activities in which I'm involved, and the priorities at which I place them, just do not allow me to take the time required to do justice to my tv.

Time for all of us is very valuable. If I compare the hourly rate at which I'm paid, to the "averaged hourly rate" charged by a pro calibrator, I save significant money by paying a pro calibrator to do the job. AND, I get a much better product because of his investment in the proper equipment and his acquired knowledge.

Like I said, this is just for my personal situation. I believe I get a super deal from a pro calibrator when all is said and done. I regret not having the time to study and do it myself, but by paying a pro I get to spend the time gained with those involved in my higher priorities.

Cheers!

Am I correct in assuming you may be reffering to use of the "warm" Color Temp offset on XBR960, which is labeled in the menu as "NTSC Color standard" ?


Quite a bit of time, and quite a bit of fun(including reading this thread). It would be difficult to estimate any sort of "round figure' how much time or fun .... As, for example often I will make adjustments during "ordinary viewing time", while I'm watching TV, after noticing something here or there, or reading something here and trying it. It is not as if it is a task with "hours invested" such as if one were an hourly worker cleaning horse stables ..... As for the most time spent working within SM on any particular "task" involving my set outside of "ordinary viewing time", I'd have to say I've probably spent the most time with the "image processing settings"(although indeed those can't be boiled down to one, "bone fide" task), as has been discussed on this thread previously.

Is a "detailed" DIY calibration for everyone? Of course not, noone is saying it is .....



I think one thing that is great about this thread, and BOTH Ken and your (and others) comments on Greyscale is that it is one of the very, very few places I know of where good, accurate info is available to assist those who *do* try to improve upon greyscale "by eye", so to speak ....

Yes, but that is only if you haven't changed the Cut/Drive settings. Typically, I will calibrate the Neutral color which seems to be set around 8000K from the factory. This leaves me with the option to adjust Warm to 5500K, for those who like it for old B&W movies, and the Cool for other possible color correction needs, like the effects room color and daytime lighting can have on grayscale.

Once, calibrating a RPTV in a slightly yellow room, (Yellow is made with Red and Green), I was working on the grayscale, every time the sun hit the wall of the room as the clouds/overcast was starting to clear, my readings kept going minus blue. This was the most effective, hands-on, demonstration of the significant impact of the viewing environment affecting grayscale.

Just as a reminder, grayscale, on the Sony is global, with two offsets available, Cool/Warm. The "white balance" adjustment for each of the inputs and scan-rates is fine tuned with the individual offsets.

What I do is "keep" the warm offset the same as was the case from the factory for reference, and use Neutral+cool for my own settings(I primarily use the cool offset for expermientation..)

So, From the factory I had :

Neutral/ RDRV~BCUT : 32-22-24-32-21-17

Factory Warm Offset values (RDOF~BCOF for "warm") : 31-26-16-31-27-19 - Note that this results in "effective" values which would be the same as using RDRV~BCUT = 32-17-9-32-17-5.

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Currently, I'm using RDRV~BCUT(for "Netural" selection via user menu) = 32-17-9-32-16-9 for normal viewing and for "warm Offset" values (RDOF~BCOF for "warm") - 31-31-31-31-32-27 - which results in "effective" values which would be the exactly the same as the factory default for warm offset as "applied" to RDRV~BCUT : 32-17-9-32-17-5.

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In a dark room, The Factory "warm" offset has slight "greenish tint" to greyscale(as evidenced with color "off" and a grey step pattern, or B&W programming/etc.), otherwise I believe it's generally fairly close to 6500K ...... It is easily evident that the factory "cool" and "neutral" settings are very much on the "cool" side ....

You are aware, that all of the grayscales revolve around the neutral cuts and drives? If you reduce blue in neutral, you will reduce blue in cool and warm. If you reduce the C/D offset in cool or warm, there is no affect on the other color temps.

If you reduce blue in neutral, then, yes, warm might look a little green. When you reduce blue, you effectively increase green and red a little.

Don't get too caught up in any mathematical relationships to the cut drive and offset numbers. This is an analog device with three different phosphors. If you reduce R/G/B DRV all by 1, the color will most likely change. The luminance level of the three will react differently.

Greenish, can also result from watching +blue color temps. I have seen it before myself. Things just didn't look right, so I brought out my D65 B&W monitor to verify what i was seeing.

Yes, I believe that should have been apparent from my last post? Sorry if I was not clear enough ... I did notice there was a typo when I typed "BDRV~BCUT" although I meant to refer to the entire RDRV~BCUT, I have edited my post to fix this error.

Update: oops, when editing that noticed I also incorrectly indicated in last post I am currently using "GCOF=30" for my current warm offset ... I've also corrected this, it is GCOF=32".


Right. As another example, If I were to say, raise GCUT to "17" from its current "16", I would then change GCOF for "warm offset" to "31", to keep warm offset the same as the values which resulted from the factory for "warm offset" ..... (you may need to refer to my last post to hopefully understand what I'm talking about there .....)


Of course. Yes, I know this. If you look at the values I provided in my last post, you'll see my warm offset REMAINS exactly the same as it was when I received the set new - not the actual values, but the "actual" result is the same.

I adjust the values for warm offset ,accordingly so it allways remains the
"same as it was from the factory whenever I change the values for neutral .... Again -- so I have the same exact "result" on screen for "warm offset" as was the case with the factory adjusted values, I don't USE the exact same values for RDOF~BCOF, obviouosly since I've changed RDRV~BCUT ...

For example -- Factory setting for "BCUT"=17. Factory setting for "warm offset" BCOF=19 --- Which is exactly the SAME for "warm" as if I were using "BCUT=5" which of course would effect only "neutral" directly.

In other words, I could change RDRV~BCUT to 32-17-9-32-17-5 and I would get exactly the same thing for "neutral" as what results with the factory(or current) warm offset.

For the RDOF~BCOF values(for cool or warm offsets), "31" is "0" offset from the RDRV~BCUT values, Numbers less than 31 are (minus) offset, numbers greater than "31" are "plus" offset. Therefore, if I have BCUT=9 which effects "neutral(and neutral is what I use for actually watching the set), Warm offset BCOF=27 equates to a BCUT value of "5" ... In other words, when I switch to "warm offset" in the user menu, it would be the same thing as having BCUT=5 If I were using "neutral".

I hope what I tried to say in my last post is clearer now?

Also, Just to clarify, other than being curious if you were reffering to "warm offset" conerning your comment about 960s you've worked with being near 6500K, I don't believe I was asking any questions regarding this subject, nevertheless, as allways thanks for your comments and additional insight, as it may be useful to others whom are reading.


I'm well aware of this, I am not getting caught up in "mathmatical relationships", and in no way shape or form has my adjustments of greyscale ever tried to "look for" a mathmatical "relationship" .....

The factory values for Warm offset(RDOF~BCOF) which equate to RDRV~BDRV = 32-17-9-32-17-5 aren't Mine, They were the values which "effectively" result for "warm offset" from the factory. I hope that makes sense, it is a little difficult to say what I'm trying to say in a completely "accurate, or precise way given the way the "offsets" work. Or, at least I can't seem to come up with a good way to say it so folks understand what I'm saying .....

I am not currently using RDRV~BCUT 32-17-9-32-16-9(to clarify that IS what I'm using, and "neutral" primarily for viewing) because of any Mathmatical relationship, I'm using it because of what I see, and because of how my black+white levels are set elsewhere ......... And no, I cannot say arriving at those "values" was "easy" without say, The use of an optical compartor such as Your Sony B&W pro monitor to, or the equipment used by a ISF calibrator .... Nor can I say, obviously with any certianity that it's 6500K/D65 ..... Of course, while it might be nice to be able to say that, I really have no need to say that either, all I really care about is how it "looks" ....

While I do have what I believe would be decent optical comparators to use to some extent = the best one weighs 150lbs(Toshiba 34HF84) and would need to be carried down a flight of stairs. I did have a pro B&W monitor in the garage, but I sold it several years ago, and can't vouch for weather or not it was 6500K .... And, note that no, for the 34HF84 I do not have any verfiable "scientific proof" that it's greyscale is D65/6500K(using it's warm offset) or very close to it, as was the case I believe with my RCAF38310 as well(the XBR960 is a warranty replacement for it), however, BOTH of those sets just had "perfect"(or close to it) looking greyscale from the factory to my eyes(the RCA may have been just a slight bit +red+a bit on the warm side with its warm offset).

And, I also believe my eyes are probably pretty good at knowing what ~6500K "white" looks like(just like the clouds at mid-day Ken has mentioned). Perhaps part of that comes from 30 years taking photographs(many of them in "outdoor enviornments), and 10 years of doing photo editing work on some of those photos on a PC(I even still use film and a 35mm film(negative) scanner, believe it or not, even though I use digital as well) .... I don't know ...

For lack of a better, "scientific" way to say it(and no, this really isn't "entirely accurate", either) --- The way I "see "white" on the screen from a set with a hopefully well calibrated greyscale(D65/6500K), is just the perfect "blend" of R/G/B ...... If white, and every step of grey, and "black" as well doesn't "look right" then I have a problem ..... If that is somehow "incorrect", well honestly, I really don't care ...

As long as I see nice, "perfect" whites(such as the white of mid-day clouds, as ken has mentioned) and "linear greyscale" without color contamination(too blue, too green, or too red) from IRE 0 (black, IRE 7.5 for NTSC of course) to IRE 100 (whilte), I really don't care what the actual "values" being used are, or what the Color temp is .... Of course, the R/B offsets CBOF/CROF come into play here as well when you "increase" the color slider above "0" ... The methods of adjustment to CBOF/CROF Ken has described previously has worked very well for me as well .... No change in "tint" with good B&W program material(the kind without all the added tint they ad in sometimes) throughout range of "brightness" and "color" slider ... Same thing as well -- Neutral grey throughout brightness/color slider range with video black up on the screen .....

Maybe that's not the way it is "supposed to be", but I surely certianly seem to like it ....


Absolutely. In fact, Currently On my set R/G/B DRV(32-17-9) remains the same for Neutral(what I use for viewing) as "equates" to the warm offset values from the factory(as I hopefully explained well enough before).


I believe I can say fairly confidently This wasn't/isn't a result of watching and becoming used to +Blue color temps, although I can live with a slight bit of +blue, or +red moreso than I can +green (for some reason +green "greyscale is especially annoying to me) ....

Clearly, there was +green going on with the "warm" offset(factory netural+cool were just WAY too cool/too blue), and it appeared to my eyes that perhaps the "warm offset" is/was(again, I've kept it allways so warm offset remains exactly as it was from the factory) perhaps just a tad on the "warm" side .... hard to say though, for all I know, it could be a bit on the "cool" side of 6500K ....

Of course, using what was the "factory" warm offset as a reference(or using experimental "cool" offset values that are very close to neutral), all it takes is +1 or -1 for any value of RDRV~BCUT from my prefereed "neutural" settings for things to look "not right" .... Too warm, too cool, +blue, +red, +green/etc ...

Since I can detect and have a "problem" with a difference as little as +1 or -1 for any value of RDRV~BCUT from my "preferred" values, it certianly seems to me I must have things awfully close to how I "want them" ..... Is it 6500K, and conform to D65? I dunno, but it certianly looks awfully good to me ... I've spent enough time with this to say I certianly can't seem to find another set of values that look "better", and I've tried quite a few of them for relatively extended periods of time ....

As it is for most.

Green is the easiest color to see. If you look at the CIE chart, the majority of it is green. Next comes red and blue is the least visible. Some CRT RPTVs don't even have focus rings on the blue tubes. Anyway back to the point, to error +green is a major no-no. This is why I offered information about D65 vs. 6500K for calibration with a color analyzer. You can easily see if there is a +green issue. Therefore, my choice is to error +blue, if I can't get D65. Even +red is noticeable, especially in the low IREs.

The whole goal is getting the TV to perform the best for yourself or the customer. If it looks good to you, you are happy. One thing I have noticed since I have had my Displays calibrated, I know the color is right and if the picture doesn't look right, it might be intentional or problems with the broadcast. I continually adjust brightness for different programs or lighting conditions, but never get into color saturation or tint. Viewing is much more pleasurable.

If I were tweaking my 960 without calibration equipment, I would leave neutral at factory and adjust the Cool and Warm offsets to watch. I would use warm for low light/night and cool for daytime, compensating for room color.

I cannot comment on the validity of keeping the offset relationship the same. For me, it would have to be proven with measurements. From my earlier comment, I am not sure increasing the offset 1 to compensate for a reduction in cut/drive will give uniform results. The actual delta in cut/drive voltages for each step change may not be the same delta for the offsets.

From what I can tell what results on screen seems to be exactly the same whether it is #1: RDRV~BCUT 32-17-9-32-17-5, or (as from the factory) :

#2) RDRV~BCUT : 32-22-24-32-21-17

Warm Offset : RDOF~BCOF : 31-26-16-31-27-19

No difference ..... Both(#1 or #2 --- Using "warm offset" for #2) appear exactly the same on screen, slightly +green.

I believe All RDOF~BCOF are are + or - values from the RDRV~BCUT values. If you are using all "31" for RDOF~BCOF, and then Lower RDOF by 1 for "warm offset" it is the same result as lowering RDRV by one value while using "neutral".

Now, There are a couple of other "offset" controls that are available as well besides RDOF~BCOF.


While I understand what you are saying --- It has not been my experience that they are not the same, and if they are in fact not the same, it really doesn't matter all that much if "warm" offset is not a "perfect" reference for me to the factory default(and, that is all I use it for I have no actual use for the factory value as far as using it to "watch" programming), in any case it's similair enough that it's still "greenish" greyscale(the exact same "tint" of green no less) and from what I recall, looks exactly the same as far as my ability to "compare" it(with the "factory defaults" exactly as they were for RDRV~BCUT and warm RDOF~BCOF) from one time to another ....

Had a wild thought. Here's a demonstration. Not sure if it is a 100% accurate way to "demonstrate" this, but it's the best I could come up with.

Attached screenshots are both using Warm offset, with the following values :

Top ---- factory defaults :

RDRV~BCUT= 32-22-24-32-21-17

Warm Offset=31-26-16-31-27-19

Bottom - My "adjustments" :

Neutral= 32-17-9-32-16-9

Warm Offset = 31-31-31-31-32-27

Can you "measure" whether they are the same, or if you are so interested, is perhaps there is something else I can do with a digital camera screenshot which would allow you to "measure" or detect any differences that might be present given the two sets of values above ?

In any case, They(top vs bottom greyscale) certianly look the same to me via this "side by side"(well top and bottom) comparision ....

Further notes follow :

Note this is Greyscale Vertical step pattern from avia, I set the display for "full" mode.

I used manual exposure settings on the digital camera which were set identically for both top+bottom shots. Besides the RDRV~BCUT and Warm offset RDOF~BCOF values, nothing else was changed on the set. Also note that with photo editing software, I didn't quite "crop" each shot exactly the same -- I did however use a gamma correction tool once I had both shots "combined", so that it would effect both images exactly the same - I did this as the "exposure" was a little "dark". Also note that the darker portion of top image is an "artifact" of the still photography due to the scanning on the TV and the amount of time the shutter was open/etc.

While of course I doubt this is any where near an accurate way to show what the greyscale actually "is" "on the screen" and as it appears to my eye, I'd think it should show you any differences in greyscale between the two images as described above. What is funny though, is even though the PC/monitor I'm using is not in the same room, from what I can tell, it does seem to look very much the same on my CRT PC monitor(which does have a 6500K Temp setting, which I am in fact using) as it does on the screen of the TV concerning the slight "greenishness" ....

I have spent at least 12+ hours, maybe double that even, but that's for everything - not just greyscale.

So I guess no one has yet tried getting a good greyscale with high _DRV and _CUT values as I have?

Jeff,

I don't have a lot of time to spend with this, and I can't measure the color temps, (pictures too small), however, I see the following:

Top picture has a little more red in the low IRE.
Bottom picture has a slightly lower gamma curve.
The color of both grayscales appear close enough to not really be an issue, not sure which one is right. If I were to choose which to use, I would use the top for night and the bottom for day. A lower gamma curve will be better in ambient light situations. Can't say about the +red.


Not sure what you mean by high. If you mean high values (40s-60s), then you can be introducing many other issues adversely affecting Gamma, Black level, White level, clipping There is no reason to go there. The tube will only display a certain luminance level before blooming begins. Staying below that point is necessary for proper resolution.

They look greenish on my monitor too, though my monitor isn't calibrated.


Ken, this pattern looks grey on my monitor, so my seeing green with Jeff's pattern is consistent.

I have been playing with my settings some more, and I think I have improved upon what I listed before. My settings now:

RDRV = 63
GDRV = 33
BDRV = 33

RCUT = 63
GCUT = 34
BCUT = 32

Upon more detailed scutiny, I detected a slightly reddish and greenish push with the previous settings, and tried some new adjustments. I think now, I probably have a little plus blue, but the slight green and red appears to be gone. I wish I could photgraph my screen like Jeff.

I had it set for complete manual control(other than I allowed it to auto focus) ---- "simulated" ASA 200 "film speed", F4.5, 1/15 sec. shutter speed. No auto color balancing going on.


That is exactly how it appears to my eyes on screen in the darker tones(although it exists in lighter tones as well to some extent on the TV - correction/clarifaction - I meant with other sources, such as good B&W programming, I didn't notice it on this step pattern), and [clarification/update], is what I notice on the CRT PC monitor I'm using as well.


[remainder of post significantly updated for(hopefully) clarity's sake].

Don't worry Ken! The images were using the FACTORY greyscale settings for "warm offset" values, not my "preferred" settings.

Top image was with factory default RDRV~BCUT and factory default for Warm offset RDOF~BCOF. The bottom image was with my adjusted/preferred RDRV~BCUT settings and adjusting Warm RDOF~BCOF accordingly to hopefully, at least somewhat closely "match" the same results of the factory warm offset settings+factory RDRV~BCUT settings -- Assuming that +1 or -1 for an offset value(31 having no effect) RDOF~BDOF is the same "effect" if you are using one of the offsets(warm or cool user menu settings) as +1 or -1 is for RDRV~BCUT(If you are using "neutral" user menu settings), which may not be entirely correct, although I still believe it's at least very, very "close" to a correct assumption ...

So, The images you saw are not the greyscale settings I actually use for viewing programming.


That's pretty close to what I did months ago. Rasied BCUT by 4 values, lowered GCUT by one value from what you see in those images(more or less) Of course, actually "doing it" and finding what I "wanted" wasn't quite as "simple" as that ...

Thanks for looking at those. The thing is, I have no idea --- even with the camera set with the same "manual" settings for each exposure ---, if the "exact" "EXACT" "greyscale" that resulted on screen for each pic was actually captured for EACH image once the shutter was opened -- Which is what I meant when I said I'm not sure if that method is 100% "accurate" ....

While they both look pretty much the same to my eyes, and therefore probably less "different" than if I were to change, say, ONLY BCUT by one or two values --- Just the fact that the camera captured that "dark area" at top of screen in one image due to the scanning frequencies the TV is using whereas it didn't in the other image tells me at least that is different from one exposure to the next ... So, Could any possible "artifacts of photography" cause the very slight different results you saw ? I don't know.

Sorry for quoting the same post twice -- Oops! To respond to the above in a 2nd, different way(if that's OK) :

I did in fact last night take a third photo (with the same "manual" exposure settings on the camera as the other two) ...

Another screenshot of the greyscale steps attached below :

The third photo is of the greyscale settings I actually USE and is the image at TOP in file attached to this message -- That's "netural" color temp in user menu, using my adjustments to RDRV~BCUT, which are : 32-17-9-32-16-9 ..... Again, this is the greyscale setting I actually USE currently, and for quite some time -- I'm really mainly concerned about dim room/dark room viewing, as the lighting conditions from the ambient light coming through the windows in the daytime vary greatly not only by time of day, but also by season(different sun angle, different light from reflection off the leaves in summer vs. no leaves in winter/etc/etc) ... At some point however, perhaps I may try to work out a slightly different version with one of the offsets for "daytime" viewing ...

The bottom image in attached screenshot is of Factory default using WARM offset -- Factory "default" settings for RDRV~BCUT AND factory default for RDOF~BCOF for "warm offset" were used for this image. It's the Same Image as the TOP image in the last post, except I resized it to match the size of the image at top, as I had moved the camera a bit last night(update: As you can also see, I didn't quite have the camera "level" for the top photo, sorry!) before I had the idea to go ahead and take a shot while using the greyscale I'm actually using as well .. Note" I can of course take a much higher resolution image+use much less compression, however since I knew the forum only allows 640x480 max size for JPG images, figured these would be "good enough" for our purposes ....

Oh, also forgot to mention earlier -- I took the photos in a completely dark room(except the light from the TV).

Again, sorry for the multiple posts!


Very interesting! I was expecting folks would probably see something quite a bit different once it got to their PC monitor -- Heck, it even surprised me that I am pretty much seeing the same thing on my PC monitor as I do on the XBR960's screen, given the greyscale settings on the set which I used for the photos .....

It does provide some motivation to :

#1) experiment a bit with taking some screenshots of the "greyscale" on other sets I have here, and compare those to the screenshots from the XBR960 ....

#2) Attempt to "tweak" things a bit for the photos - such as : use higher resolution for the shots/select better test patterns(and lower JPG compression ratio or the camera's "RAW" format), detirmine better exposure settings to use. If I do that, perhaps I can get more useful and "detailed" results for comparison's sake ....

Just something to add to the "list of fun stuff to do someday" on a "rainy weekend" ......

so after a week and a half of deliberation as to whether to enter the service menu on my own, I gave it a shot. I have a 30xs955. I bought an avia disc and read this thread for days on end! and btw I wrote EVERYTHING DOWN and entered it all into an excell sheet on the computer and I still got confused at times. So I got into the service menu and destroyed 2170D-1, 2170D-2 and 2170D-4 with ease! My TV had 20% overscan on all sides and i reduced this to ~3%. My VSIZ was on 51 I lowered this to 42. My HSIZ was on 50 and i lowered this to 36, I wonder why they were set this high from the factory? (or the showroom floor i shoudl say ). This was the greatest thing to ever happen to my tv! I also fixed some geometry problems using some of the pincushions and trapezoids. I found myself messing with VANG and LANG a lot trying to find a medium between the two but ended up going back to the factory settings but I spent at least 45min on these two items. The DPQ settings in 2170D-4 were of great help also since the edges of my TV were blurry. I used an inverse crosshatch pattern to see the bluriness (was really noticeable in this pattern) and fixed as much of the blur as I could.

Now, that was all fine and dandy but what on earth does convergence of vertical lines do (D-CONV)?! I thought it had to do with geometry (ie, RUMB = right upper middle bow, YBWL = y-bow lower) but none of the settings I tried did anything I could see AT ALL. is there a trick to it?

anyways, thank the Lord for these forums, now I can fiddle with my TV in a way I never thought imaginable, it's pretty fun

The D-CONV parameters allow you to improve any mis-convergence visable along vertical lines -- such as, if you put up a cross hatch pattern and see blue or red lines "next" to the white cross hatch pattern lines .. If you aren't seeing any of those "extra" blue or red lines along vertical lines in cross hatch pattern, then there is no reason for you to adjust any of the D-CONV settings.

Search this thread for D-CONV, or some of the settings(such as RUMB) and you should be able to find posts with more specific info concerning which area of the screen each control impacts. There is also a nice little chart showing what each control does in section 2-3.4 of the Service Manual(pg. 36~37).

RUMB for example would allow you to adjust for a misconvergence in Right upper portion of screen on vertical lines, with the "bow" being adjustable for any Red or blue "extra" lines that may be present ... You'd want to make the Red+blue lines "disappear" and "combine" with the White line as much as possible ....

There are no dynamic convergence settings available in the SM for any visable vertical mis-convergence, which may be visable on horizontal lines in a cross hatch pattern.

Hope some of this above is useful!



Excellent, and Amen

Iv got a big problem with my 36XS955. Iv noticed some pulsing in the picture for a while now, but a few days ago the picture expanded so a bit is lost on all sides. Is this something that can be fixed in the service menu, and if so, what would the procedure be? Id really appreciate some advice. Rick.

Thanks for the reply, KenTech. Yeah, I think it's probably a power supply issue, God knows how much that would be to fix. (I knew I should have gotten the extended warranty!) One other odd thing has happened- the screen button is not fuunctioning. When i press screen it displays full mode, but i cant access any other mode.

oh excellent. I will delve into the D-Conv tonight and check it out, I do believe the upper left hand corner of my screen has a convergence problem like you described. thanks

You're way ahead of me Ken! What an excellent idea !


It is the best I've been able to come up with so far, although I don't think it is quite "perfect" yet, even if the camera shot doesn't quite match the screen ....


I do "see" the slight "Plus Red" on the TV screen, I'm not quite sure about the minus Blue, I haven't noticed that, In fact, if anything I thought it might be just a tad +blue.


It's *seems*pretty close to the same, I haven't had the time yet to stew on or attempt to "quantify" what any small diferences might be(which might be difficult since I don't have a calibrated PC monitor to use).

Anyhow, I'll have to try that(hopefully tonight), and see what comes of it, as I haven't tried that with -1 red. Previous experience seems to suggest changing only BCUT +1 or +2 might start puting things a little too much on the "blue" or "cool" side .....


Oh, I don't either ... I am however surprised at just how close it seems to be "working" -- even although -- as the below indicates I really didn't set up the exposures for "best" results" --

Not only because of what I see on my TV screen vs what I see on a PC monitor(if there are any small differences there, again I haven't quanitifed them yet as the PC+TV are in seperate rooms), but also, in a "general way" given what everyone on the thread who has commented on it has seen ...


I did let the camera "autofocus", as if I used manual focus, my focus setting may have been lost when the camera automatically powered down If I didn't get to the next exposure "quickly enough".


This is a Canon PowerShot G1.

NOTE that also, the camera does have a "Black and white" mode, however you can't use it and manually adjust the exposure(except for manual focus), and, If I'm thinking about this right, we couldn't use it to photo a TV's greyscale and see the "color contamination issues ....


Anyhow --- A bit of a "correction" to an earlier post --- I did "erronously" leave the Camera's white balance settings on "auto"(white balance settings are detirmined by the camera) for all the photos I've posted. I had remembered the white balance settings incorrectly, as I thought I'd remembered I'd read they were "static" for "manual" mode, well I remembered wrong .... Here are the available white balance settings I can select :

Auto, Daylight, Cloudy, Tungsten lighting, Flouresent lighting, Flash and
Custom - The latter just as you say for "setting a custom value with a white sheet of paper, etc, to obtain the optimal white balance for the conditions ...."

-------------------------------------------------


Yes, this camera does a "RAW format", back when I was using the camera more often, I used "RAW" images with photo editing software quite often, although I generally worked more with the TIF's I created after transfer from the camera.

And, I should be able to accomplish all those tasks -- It might be a while, but, when I get a chance I will do some further "experiments" and will post what I find.


I'm really not assuming all that much so far, Ken ... Really, I have been surprised the images I've taken so far of the greyscale as it appears on screen are seemingly at least somewhat close to what they are on the set! Obviously, even with the camera's "auto white balance", you can clearly see the difference between the Set default's "warm" offset, and my current preferred "neutral" settings, which are (more or less per the "offset discussion), BCUT +4, and GCUT -1 from the factory "warm" setting .....


Yes, that seems like a good idea ..... Probably end up trying this as well as working with the RAW format+Photoshop and/or PSP ....

As I said, however -- It might be a while before you hear back from me on this! Many projects going on here currently, I can't quite "pause" many of them

damn just my luck. so over the last month or so my HD channels have been like dying out. everything has become extrememly oversaturated and bleeding and what not. So i took the time tonight to read up on the service codes and i decided to go through and change pretty much all of the in hope to get everthing back to normal.

well in the end all looked very good again finally until i saved and turned off the tv. Now the picture still looks great but for the life of me a cant figure out how to fix my cable box guide. Its all bowed and distored and i've tryed like every setting and i just cant get it back to normal.

I even tried (8) - (enter) in hope to restore defaults to fix it and that didnt work either.

anyways if anyone has a complete list of service codes specifically for the KV32HS500 that would be so i could put them back the way they should be.

or if someone knows which codes might work best for this so i can get this fixed that would be great too.

thanx

I posted this question in a new thread but didn't get much of a response so I'll try here. My friend has a 40" XBR (not sure of exact model #) that seems to have gone out of focus. Can someone direct me to a post that discusses how to fix this if it's been covered before or provide some new info regarding this focus problem? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Use the function "Search this thread". A search on "focus" will give you loads of reading material.