THE SONY SERVICE CODES - Articles, Comments, Discoveries - Page 97

Why is it that some service menu codes are locked or do nothing on smaller sony crts? I have a sony model kv-13m40 and another small sony crt in which some common values do nothing. Values such as hsiz, cpin, pamp, trap, and some other do nothing to change the geometry. The numbers can be adjusted but they do not change the picture. I assume that this is done intentionally since I have two sets in which those same values are locked. It's not that big of a deal, but I would like to know why it set this way.

Hello Fellows.

Last week I was fortunate enough to purchase an XS-955 off of Craigslist for a mere $100.

It's a dream set for me, my first true hdtv, and much preferable to a cheap LCD television in terms of image quality.

I have been reading this thread daily, but it seems I still can't seem to get through the dense explanations and tutorials. It seems like a lot of data is all over the place.

Can someone help me out with just one aspect of the tv that I want to modify?

I would like to correct the overscan on my set. Currently it is cutting off quite a bit too much of the screen imo. I can tell by looking at various sources like games and network channels that I'm missing about 10% of the image. I know CRT's have a bit of overscan, but I think I can lessen this effect and improve image the quality.

What are the specific settings to change in the service menu to just reduce the overscan uniformly? I know that I am looking for H-Size and V-size, but I have been reading in this thread that I must also change some settings to maintain the image processing features are being applied over the same area. Does that sound right?

Start here.

I think I am all set to enter the service menu and correct the overscan on my set, but I have run into a small problem.

I don't have the original remote, and I can't figure out a way to press the 5 key that is required to enter service mode.

I have two universal remotes. One is from Insight Digital, and the other is an RCA universal remote. Both are able to perform every function of the tv, except to be able change the channel in OTA mode. If I press the number keys it always tries to send the signal to my cable box?

Does anyone know the specific universal code for this TV, or a universal remote that can enter service mode?

I must be missing something in your directions, because once I power off out of the service menu, the settings go back to the ones that they were previously at (i.e. no net change has occured aftering powering off).

Is there a way to "save" the new settings before powering off?

TLK

If you chased down the threads, you should have discovered that I had also provided (as an attachment to one of those posts) my own Excel spreadsheet that contained all of my settings (for all resolutions and inputs, and both USER MENU values as well as SERVICE MENU values). While the values in the spreadsheet are obviously unique to my own XBR960, the spreadsheet itself can obviously be used by you as a very convenient way to "write down" your own current values before you begin tweaking.

Note that at the bottom of the "Service Menu" tab on spreadsheet were assorted "Notes":

Notes:
Enter Service Mode = [PowerOff] - [DISPLAY] - [5] - [VOL+] - [PowerOn]
Menu item Next = [1]
Menu item Previous = [4]
Group Next = [2]
Group Previous = [5]
Adjust item value Up = [3]
Adjust item value Down = [6]
Save New Settings = [MUTE] - [ENTER]
Exit Service Mode = [PowerOff]
Warning: [7]-[JUMP]-[ENTER] and [7]-[9]-[ENTER] will reset the NVM data. Avoid key [7].


===> Save New Settings = [MUTE] - [ENTER]

You have to do this in order to "save" your updated settings before powering off. If you don't, then as you discovered your changes will not be saved and you'll be right back where you were before you started tweaking.

Thank you.

One thing I DON'T understand is messing with the MID3 setting. After messing around with it, I really don't see how it "layers" on top of the 2170D-1 and 2170D-2 settings. They seem completely independet to me, at least with my KD-36XS955.

Thanks again!

TLK

I have successfully corrected the overscan on my XS955!

The image is much brighter and sharper now as an added bonus to seeing the whole image. I suppose it's because there is more energy from the scanning electron guns inside being focused in a smaller area than before.

I did this by adjusting the VPOS, VSIZ, HPOS, HSIZ setting in group 2170D. I adjusted it as small as could, but it still cut off part of the screen.

Then I went into MID3 and used the VDHP, VDHS, VDVE, and VDVS settings to further reduce the size of the screen.

From what I can tell the difference in the two sets of screen adjustments is that the first one is the size of the actual raster, and the other is a sort of digital image resizing to fit the image onto the raster. I have lined them up closely, but they do not line up pixel to pixel. Will this cause any negativity?

Well I can't speak firsthand about the 36XS955, although the service manual says it applies to the common DA-4 chassis shared with the 34XBR960. But I don't think this doesn't necessarily mean that all particulars of the Service Menu or corresponding electronics work identically across all models in the product family.

Furthermore, I've read feedback from other Forum members (on this and related threads, for the 960) that they suggest against using MID3 for adjustment of geometry. Some kind of "risk", or "hazard", or "damage"... or some such discussion.

Personally, I don't understand any of this. Lacks the ring of truth to me, else why would Sony have invented MID3 at all?

Anyway, I can simply say that for me using 2170D-1 for vertical size/centering/positioning of the "background", and using 2170D-2 for horizontal size/centering/positioning of the "background", and using MID3 for vertical/horizontal size/centering/positioning of the "foreground image on top of the background"... well that was how I got my picture to look the way it does.

Of course you should be looking at a proper test pattern (see BMP inside of attached OVERSCAN.ZIP) when doing these three tweaks. And you'll go back and forth, one "click" at a time while watching a horizontal or vertical edge move in or out of your screen, so that you can clearly see what you're accomplishing by a plus or minus tweak, and whether that's "better" or "worse" than before. The extreme edge of the image (in the "foreground") may disappear when you shrink the "background" a bit, so you have to play with both foreground and background in order to maximize the visible image, reduce overscan to 1-2% (or maybe even 0%, but that usually exposes data artifacts like white dot crawl when watching SD channels), and maximize use of the full 16x9 screen. Actually, you'll probably end up with MORE image in that 16x9 screen than you started with (because you're trimming overscan toward 0%), which actually has the effect of reducing the size of things you see in that 16x9 screen but also visibly increasing apparent "resolution" and "sharpness". It's very satisfying when you're done.

You will play with the three sets of adjustors repeatedly, trying to get it just right. And when you finally really do zero in on the proper values for your set it will be obvious because now just one +/- click for any of the items clearly always makes it "worse".

In my experience, it took adjustments to all three groups (as you can see in my Excel spreadsheet, where I show both "service manual default" as well as "my final setting" for each of the crucial horizontal/vertical geometry adjustors in these three groups.

At least that's how it worked on the 34XBR960, where MID3 is "functional". It just may work differently on the 36XS955. I know for a fact that my cousin's older 34XBR800 doesn't have a MID3, so when I was adjusting his set I had to use its MID1 values which seemed to perform similar functions as MID3 on the XBR960. Maybe there's some similar subtle difference on the 36XS955.

 

overscan.zip 9.4423828125k . file

Excellent!



Probably you're seeing more image (wait until you see those score bars during ball games, or info crawls on news channels, etc., and realize just exactly how much information there really was to be seen... including OUTSIDE what was the old image perimeter you were looking at before your tweaks).

Also, everything inside the constant screen size is now somewhat smaller (since you have more image in that screen) although there's more to look at, which has an automatic "sharpening" effect to our eyes and brains.



In my own case with my XBR960, it wasn't just size and positioning in the horizontal and vertical directions which required adjusting... it was also centering.

So I had to play with VPOS, VSIZ and VCEN (2170D-1), along with HCNT, HPOS, HSIZ (2170D-2), and then VDHP, VHDS, VDVE and VDVS (MID3).

I also worked on tweaking pin cushion and corners, to get as much rectangularity and linearity on vertical and horizontal edges as I could. I cannot tolerate "bowing" and "curvature" at the corners of my screen.



I always describe it like with Photoshop... "background", and "image". If the background's not large enough you lose image (like cropping). If the background's too large you have extra black space with no image on it. If the image's too small you're not taking advantage of all the screen real estate. If the image's too large then the smaller background will result in loss (crop) on the edges of the image.

Fairly delicate process of adjusting three tweaks all together, but eventually you do zero in on where just +/- one click on anything obviously causes you to say "no... that's worse". Now you know you're done.




This is an analog set, and is therefore not pixel-perfect.

I'd say just get as close as you can, so that you're really happy... and be done with it.

ENJOY!

So far with my KD-36XS955, I've only adjusted the 2170D-1 and 2170D-2 settings based upon the 1.33:1 cross-hatch pattern on the DVE DVD. I just can't figure out how MID3 works at all, though. I'm happy with my adjustments insofar that my overscan for TV (ATSC OTA), Component 5 (LaserDisc deinterlaced to 480p with a Faroudja NRS scaler), and HDMI 7 (Blu-ray and Dish Network HD DVR using an A/B switch) are minimized.

However, when watching 4:3 content in the 16:9 frame with the ATSC tuner, the screen mode of "zoom" still cuts off WAY too much of the 4:3 frame. The SD channels look fine, as I adjusted them with the 2170D-1 and 2170D-2 settings, but the zoom of the 16:9 HD channels still cuts off too much picture. I haven't been able to figure out how to overcome this yet. Have you solved this problem, Eric_S?

Finally, how do you get that cross-hatch OVERSCAN.ZIP file that you just posted displayed onto your screen? I'm guessing the Memory Stick slot. Regardless, will this particular cross-hatch pattern do anything different for adjusting the set than the cross-hatch pattern on the DVE DVD?

TLK

That BMP is a true 1920x1080 16x9 test pattern, produced by Sonera's "DisplayMate for Windows, Video Edition" on my PC. I have an ATI video card along with a DVI-to-component adapter and connected my PC to my XBR960 using a long component video cable.

You said your DVE test pattern was 4:3 (and no better than 480p), though you probably stretched it for use on the 16:9 set. The DisplayMate pattern is native 16x9, and 1920x1080 resolution. Note that there is a very tiny (perhaps 1 pixel?, but for sure at 1920x1080 resolution) dot at the center of each square in the entire pattern, which is fabulous for adjusting convergence throughout the screen. Poor convergence will show up as the familiar red/green/blue "ghosts" around that should-be-white dot, and having them uniformly splattered over the entire 16x9 screen is wonderfully useful..

I suspect you can put it on a memory stick and use it that way on your XS955, though I've never actually used the memory stick input on my XBR960.

NOTE: if you have a 16x9 LCD monitor on your computer, you can also display that BMP I posted with any image viewer on your computer in full-screen (no borders or toolbars), if you want to examine (and adjust if necessary, if you monitor has controls) your own computer video. Of course with a pixel-perfect LCD monitor there should be no need for adjustment. But I certainly used the 4:3 version of that same pattern to tweak my IBM P92, P96 and P275 monitors (they're old but gorgeous Sony Trinitron-based CRT monitors).

Aha! Okay, that's how you did it. I don't have this capability presently, sadly. I'll look into figuring out how though.


Since the KD-36XS955 is a 4:3 set, I went with the 4:3 test pattern from the DVE DVD. I will mess with the 16:9 anamorphic test pattern today. Maybe, I need to invest in the DVE Blu-ray. I bought my DVE as a HD DVD/DVD flipper. Obviously, the HD DVD side doesn't do me any good!

I will look into the convergence issue to see if my set is properly calibrated, or not. Thanks.

TLK

I recently bought a Sony 34HS510 and have followed DSperber's advice on adjusting overscan and geometry, and have achieved outstanding results. I had to use the geometry/crosshatch patterns on the DVE DVD and Blu-Ray to get everything set up, since I didn't have access to anything else resembling a crosshatch pattern. As far as I know, I haven't seen any loss in resolution or picture quality, however....


I also have a copy of the service manual for the 34HS510 and was wondering about something I read in there. In the service manual section 2-9.1. NTSC (DRC) Full Mode Adjustment, there is a little note that says: "Make sure that the picture size is within specs. Vertical size
is 11.8 ± 0.1 sq. and horizontal size is 15.8 ± 0.1 sq."

Maybe I am missing the obvious here, but what exactly does that mean? What is the "sq." abbreviation they are talking about?

Then later on in section 2-9.2. 1080I HD Mode Adjustment, it says:" Adjust the geometry similar to Full DRC mode. Vertical size is 11.7
± 0.1 sq. and horizontal size is 15.6 ± 0.1 sq., if monoscope signal is
available. Otherwise, set the Vertical size to 91.0 ± 0.6% scan and
Horizontal size as 91.0 ± 0.6% scan."

Again, I don't really know what this means, other than that it has to do with the appropriate range for the ratio between your horizontal and vertical sizes, so that the geometry is spot on. I just don't really understand the math and the terminology.

The "sq" is in reference to a standardized HD monoscope test signal used for geometry adjustments. The one referenced in the service manual is 16 x 12 "squares". Don't be concerned that this doesn't match the standard 16:9 ratio, the "squares" are actually rectangular. A service manual for a previous model, 34XBR2, explains that if a cross-hatch pattern is used then a calculated 90% is to be used. This would result in 5% overscan all around, which may be a little much. Your reference of 91% +/- 0.6% will result in 4-5%. I generally shoot for 2-3%.

When working on my 34HS510, I noticed that the "MTRX" setting always defaults to a value of "0" whenever I input a 1080i, 720p, or 480p signal. It does this on the DVI input as well as both of the component video inputs. I searched this thread and read through all the information about the MTRX setting doing the "auto-switch" when people are outside the service menu. However, it appears my tv is not doing the "auto-switch" for MTRX either inside or outside the SM.

In other words, unless I am mistaken, my tv keeps using the SD color matrix even if I am inputting a HD signal. I checked using color filters when outside the SM and inputting a HD signal, and sure enough, it was displaying the same color matrix as if I input a 480p signal(the same one as when the value is the default of "0" inside the SM).

Every time I am in the SM, and I manually change the "MTRX" value to "1", I can see a significant change in the color bar patterns on the DVE Blu-Ray. The differences are especially noticeable in the cyan and green boxes. However, those colors are not being displayed whenever I input a HD signal outside the SM. The auto switch isn't working for me - even if I try to write/save the "1" setting for MTRX in the SM.

Is there anything I can do to get my tv to display the right color matrix for HD sources?

I would like to fiddle around with some of the horizontal geometry problems on both my 36xs955 and my 40xbr800. I also have a very minor greenie on my 800 I'd like to play with. The 955 has a subtle upward bow in the middle of th lower part of the screen. It's noticable with the HD bars up. The 800 has the standard left side of the screen sag. I've got the back off of both of them and tried to move around some of the magnets but no fix. Can anyone point me to a guide on how to fix some of these distortions? How about where to get a magnet kit? I was hoping the 800 would have a simple fix like a magnet had fallen off on the left side during a move since the distortion is so uniform but no dice.
Cheers,
Alex

I was just tinkering around with the service menu on an old CRT monitor, and I found that it stores a record of how many hours it has been on. In this case it was 18,020. Is there anything like that in this service menu? I have a 34xs955 and was thinking it would be interesting to know.

Not sure what term I'm looking for to describe what's happening with my set, but I've been searching like mad for the last week and have not found any reference to my problem. Thought I'd ask and see if I'm just doing it wrong and should go back to RTFM stage!

I have a kv30hs420, which has great picture geometry, at least on my HDMI input, since I haven't gotten around to tweaking the other inputs yet. So much to learn and do! Thank you all, by the way, and KenTech for starting this thread.

The problem is that red, green, and blue are all horizontally separated from each other by almost a quarter inch. Red to the left one quarter, green in the center, and blue to the right one quarter.

Each image is clear and straight, but it's like I'm projecting three separate images alongside each other instead of on top of each other as it's supposed to be. Colors so far look pretty decent in the areas where they overlap, but I'm not going to test too much or tweak the color levels until I can get them lined up proper.

Is there a code in the Service Menu that I am overlooking for adjusting the entire red, green, and blue display horizontally? D-CONV has provisions for minor tweaks in specific areas, but I can't seem to find a way to shift the entire R,G, or B horizontally to allow them to match back up.

D-CONV didn't allow me a great enough adjustment to move the image far enough to overlap properly. Sorry if this has been answered already. I've been searching and searching and learning amazing new things. Just haven't come across this one.

Afraid it's going to be a magnet issue and nothing I can do from the SM. Since the TV itself was completely free, I don't mind TOO much if I have to go have it serviced, but would much prefer attempting to fix the problem myself.

What code told you the hours of usage?

TLK

If this problem is across the entire screen, this is likely a static convergence issue. There are physical adjustments on the yoke for static convergence. Check out this service manual excerpt and read section 2-2 Convergence. Be sure to disable the dynamic convergence function per the first step of 2-2.1. but you can ignore the statement about default values for beam landing. You may also have to go through the physical alignments in 2-3. As a matter of fact, 2-3.2. TLH Plate Adjustment looks to be close to your issue.

Use a crosshatch pattern as mentioned and make small adjustments Good luck.

Thank you for the quick answer! Hopefully this will do the trick. When the house goes to bed and isn't watching DBZ Kai on the TV, I'll have to pop it open and see what I can do.

Will keep you posted on this, just in case anyone else has this issue and wants to know how it went.

Thanks again! And I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Trying to locate a service manual for my set is more than a chore, so thank you, raouliii, for sending me an excerpt from yours, by the way.

Last post for a little while. Eternal thanks to Raouliii. It ended up being the Horizontal static control. A simple turn of a screw and I'm back to where I can start tweaking hardcore with the test patterns for geometry and color.

Now my absolutely free TV looks like it just came off the factory floor. Which, as we've learned isn't exactly optimal. So time to put the time in on making it BETTER than factory

It was an old Nokia 445xi monitor. If I recall correctly, I held down the menu button when I powered it up. It then prompted me for a code 7177 I think it was. Found that info somewhere on the Internet...anyway, I'm pretty sure the Sony doesn't have that feature. Too bad-it would be cool to know!

Hello young and old! I have been scanning this thread as much as possible and picked myself up a very nicely kept KV-27FS120 and would like to tinker with this when the wife is off doing wifey things! All I really need to know is how do i get from one option to another in the service menu? do I press the Vol up/down buttons or do I use another button? I was a long time Toshiba user and could fly through the service menu with ease but the Sony's seem to be slightly different. I'm not completely new to these things but with those small questions answered I can be on my way to tinkering heaven!

OldTimerCanuck

So I have read lots in this thread and it is very helpful. I have actually performed many of the service menu tweaks already and my XS955 34" 16:9 really shines now! However, when I finished all the corrections, I started to notice an error that comes-and-goes depending on whats being displayed. I feel like it is not randomly displayed, but as of currently, have not deduced what exactly causes the error. Perhaps this is a defect in my set or some setting that I must tweak in the service menu. Below is two pictures I took of Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince. Notice has there are a coupld of large blue-red horizontal bands across the screen. Like I said, they're not always on there, but especially in dark scenes with highlights, it is very annoying and distracting. Any help or input would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Link to photo or error:
http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/...uestion002.jpg

I've seen that before and I remember fixing it on my set but, I don't remember the codes I adjusted off the top of my head. Possibly in the MID1,2, or 3 set of codes.

Come to think of it I had to adjust a few set of codes to fix that issue.

I fixed it! My image was being scanned too far off the raster, causing distortion. I simply shrunk the image size using the regular controls (2170-D) and it went away. Thanks for responding!

I just got the 34HS420 and its great except one annoying issue.

For example.....If I'm playing RDR or la noir or GTA4 and I run left and right really fast everything in the game has a nasty 3D look without glasses.

Kind of like bad motion judder and double imaging.

If I stand still in the game the ghosting doesn't occur.

What section of the service menu would I need to change to fix this horrible problem??