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Samsung HLRxx67W Owners Thread --- 720p DLP HDTV - Page 126

post #3751 of 4003
11/19/08 at 2:25pm
my house is super dusty does anybody take the back of there dlp and blow it out? Should i or leave it??
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post #3752 of 4003
11/19/08 at 2:25pm
sorry double post.
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post #3753 of 4003
11/20/08 at 6:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 83trekker View Post

my house is super dusty does anybody take the back of there dlp and blow it out? Should i or leave it??


It couldn't hurt anything....I've read that you shouldn't use compressed air though....someone said that they use a vacuum with a soft attachment to get rid of dust....good luck.
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post #3754 of 4003
11/22/08 at 3:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by skimklaw View Post

I just hooked my TV up to my computer with NVIDIA 7600GT...

I have tried using VGA and HDMI

Both cut off portions of the screen....

Both say they are at 1280x720 resolution. HDMI (Via DVI to HDMI connector) is fully maximized and cuts off the top, bottom, and sides of the actual desktop (more on top and bottom).

VGA cuts off some of the bottom, but is letterboxed around the top and sides.

I've tried all the options through the NVIDIA panel

Any help would be appreciated. I am trying to use the TV as the primary and only display.

This response is kind of late, but maybe this will help somebody someday. I have my Samsung hooked up to my PC via HDMI-DVI and was having the same problem as you at first. Make sure you have the same nvidia drivers, and then find the option in nVidia control panel (go to advanced in the screen in windows where you set resolution in windows, nvidia tab, nvidia control panel) called resize desktop. It will let you stretch the desktop to roughly fit the screen.

After I did this I realized I still had black bars on the top and right side of the screen, and the left and bottom where lined up perfectly. The service menu allows you to compensate for this. Just move the vertical and horizontal until it is center and use nvidia resize desktop option again and it will work.

I guess it still isnt absolutely perfect, as you are adjusting by sight. It is the closest I have found yet.
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post #3755 of 4003
12/13/08 at 6:16am
Hey folks - my unit's HDMI input stopped working. It actually gave me a message on a blue screen (at first it just showed nothing, then it came on for a few seconds (in HD w/ sound), then just sound) that said that "HD Input Has Been Compromised" and it told me to use the component cables. Am I out of luck, is the HDMI board toast? Can it be "reset"?
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post #3756 of 4003
12/15/08 at 10:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lerxt1990 View Post

Hey folks - my unit's HDMI input stopped working. It actually gave me a message on a blue screen (at first it just showed nothing, then it came on for a few seconds (in HD w/ sound), then just sound) that said that "HD Input Has Been Compromised" and it told me to use the component cables. Am I out of luck, is the HDMI board toast? Can it be "reset"?

That's not the fault of the TV, that is an issue with your cable box... usually it means the HDMI handshake/sync failed. Turn the cable box off and on a couple times, ideally you should turn the TV off then on again(NOT good for it, though). If all else fails just pull the plug of your cable box to reboot it, then it should work again.
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post #3757 of 4003
12/15/08 at 3:29pm
Hey All....it's been a while since I've posted here, but I'm really in need of some help. I purchased my HL-R5067 back in January of '06 and it's got 9440 hours on the original bulb according to the service menu. Several months ago, I noticed a "flickering" in the set, usually when there were bright white backgrounds, or very dynamic scenes. This has gradually gotten worse so that not it spends most of the time on a blue screen reading either "Not Supported Mode" or "Not Available" or it fades to black altogether. I don't get the three-light for flashing light indicators on the front of the set, so I'm not SURE that this is the blub or not. Can anyone confirm these symptoms as indications that the bulb is going or is it one of the "boards" I keep reading about? Thanks!
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post #3758 of 4003
12/25/08 at 8:48am
hey everyone I have never used this site before and I tried to read to see if my answers were in this thread however, I didn't really feel like reading all of the nearly 4,000 posts to be honest!'


So I had my dlp since it nearly came out but it has been in storage for nearly 2 years and i have been using it for the last few months and just got a blu ray player for xmas and I currently have my hdmi hook up with my cable box and there is not another outlet for it does anyone know if this is an adaptor so I can plug up two hdmi cable one from cable box and one for the blu ray????

Also when I'm watching cable from the hdmi only hd channels work and the other channels say "not supported" and I have to switch to cable 3, is there a way to avoid this???
ie getting a cable card???is that hd quailty ???

thanks for any help before I have to call cc or bb or timewarner cable.....I hate to do it but I will if need be
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post #3759 of 4003
12/25/08 at 12:04pm
Bulb replacement question on an hlr4667.

Mine blew out today (christmas) just when we wanted to play with the new PS3.

I checked on line and the proper replacement bulb appears to be bp96-0826a despite the fact that the sticker on the side of the tv says something completely different.

Anyway, I just happened to still have my hln4365 that has a bad dmd or something and was replaced by the 46.

Even though I couldn't find anywhere on line that said I could use the bulb from the 43, I swapped it out of the housing for the 43 into the 46 and it worked (so far).

I can't tell any difference in brightness yet. The bulb in the 43 was a philips 100825881 - which I can't even find anywhere on line. I don't know why it was in the 43 but suspect they must have changed the light engine and all when they were trying to fix its other myriad problems.

Is anyone aware of any potential problems from the swap? Maybe ballast related?

thanks.
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post #3760 of 4003
12/26/08 at 7:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by walt55054life View Post

hey everyone I have never used this site before and I tried to read to see if my answers were in this thread however, I didn't really feel like reading all of the nearly 4,000 posts to be honest!'


So I had my dlp since it nearly came out but it has been in storage for nearly 2 years and i have been using it for the last few months and just got a blu ray player for xmas and I currently have my hdmi hook up with my cable box and there is not another outlet for it does anyone know if this is an adaptor so I can plug up two hdmi cable one from cable box and one for the blu ray????

Also when I'm watching cable from the hdmi only hd channels work and the other channels say "not supported" and I have to switch to cable 3, is there a way to avoid this???
ie getting a cable card???is that hd quailty ???

thanks for any help before I have to call cc or bb or timewarner cable.....I hate to do it but I will if need be

Check here for HDMI switches.

Not sure why you're getting the "not supported" message. Search this site for your specific cable box model and there will probably be a thread dedicated to it.
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post #3761 of 4003
12/27/08 at 12:28am
thanks for the website a huge help!!! looking fwrd to getting one also thinking about selling my 720 before they start broadcasting 1080 so I can get money for a 1080
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post #3762 of 4003
12/27/08 at 7:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by walt55054life View Post

thanks for the website a huge help!!! looking fwrd to getting one also thinking about selling my 720 before they start broadcasting 1080 so I can get money for a 1080

No problem. Remember that quite a few networks (ABC, Fox, ESPN, etc.) broadcast their signal in 720p. Check this list for more info.
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post #3763 of 4003
12/29/08 at 1:25pm
I'm trying to set up my Samsung TV so that I can either use it alone or with my AV Receiver. Has anyone found a way to use the internal-mute for using surround sound, but then easily turning it back for regular TV viewing? I know I'll need to create two activities in my 880 remote, but there's no easy way to turn the internal mute on/off. I'm also having trouble finding the list of discrete IR commands available for this TV, anyone know where they can be found? Thanx y'all!
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post #3764 of 4003
1/5/09 at 8:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeWatcher View Post

I'm trying to set up my Samsung TV so that I can either use it alone or with my AV Receiver. Has anyone found a way to use the internal-mute for using surround sound, but then easily turning it back for regular TV viewing? I know I'll need to create two activities in my 880 remote, but there's no easy way to turn the internal mute on/off. I'm also having trouble finding the list of discrete IR commands available for this TV, anyone know where they can be found? Thanx y'all!

Have you tried this site?
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...hlight=samsung
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post #3765 of 4003
1/7/09 at 10:02am
I own a HLS6167W and so far so good!

I had read somewhere about possible firmware updates to support 1080p24 and other nicetys. Anyone know of this?
And without a full calibration, what are the "ideal settings" for service menu? Will they stick once powered off? Or should I keep it simple and just set the regular menus?

Thanks!
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post #3766 of 4003
1/10/09 at 1:00am
My understanding of this TV is that its native resolution is 720p, but it can do 1080i via scaling. Based on this, my conclusion is that, when watching a hi-def DVD (HD-DVD or Blu-Ray), I am not really getting the maximum quality that I could be getting. Is this correct?

Sorry for the dumb question -- I think I'm right but want to make sure. If the difference will really not be much, then I will stick with this TV, but if a 1080p TV will give me a very nice benefit (w/ Xbox 360 too?), then I might have to upgrade. I figure, now that I have HD sources like the 360 and DVD player, as well as plenty of HD cable channels, I'd like to get the maximum picture quality -- as long as it would truly make a noticeable difference.

Thanks in advance!
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post #3767 of 4003
1/12/09 at 2:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayfore View Post

My understanding of this TV is that its native resolution is 720p, but it can do 1080i via scaling. Based on this, my conclusion is that, when watching a hi-def DVD (HD-DVD or Blu-Ray), I am not really getting the maximum quality that I could be getting. Is this correct?

The point has been argued many times in many places. My opinion is that 720p is just as good as 1080i unless your screen is enormous or you like to sit right in front of the screen.
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post #3768 of 4003
1/12/09 at 3:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bakers12 View Post

The point has been argued many times in many places. My opinion is that 720p is just as good as 1080i unless your screen is enormous or you like to sit right in front of the screen.

I have heard this too, about 720p vs. 1080i, so I believe that. I don't really understand what 1080i means, other than it's not truly as good as 1080p -- something about alternating lines. What I'm wanting to know is whether or not I will see a big difference in Xbox 360 and Blu-Ray movies, between my 720p set and a 1080p one? I'm thinking about upgrading again, and trying to sell mine (no idea what I could even get for it -- a few hundred bucks maybe -- ouch). Soon after I bought it, I could have kicked myself for not knowing about 1080p being so close on the horizon.
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post #3769 of 4003
1/13/09 at 3:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Denbo_33 View Post

Have you tried this site?
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin...hlight=samsung

I have. I wanted a single command that would enable/disable the internal mute without stepping thru the TV's menu. I don't think it exist. I've since set it up so internal mute is on and the AVR is always used....makes things simpler.
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post #3770 of 4003
1/13/09 at 4:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayfore View Post

I have heard this too, about 720p vs. 1080i, so I believe that. I don't really understand what 1080i means, other than it's not truly as good as 1080p -- something about alternating lines. What I'm wanting to know is whether or not I will see a big difference in Xbox 360 and Blu-Ray movies, between my 720p set and a 1080p one? I'm thinking about upgrading again, and trying to sell mine (no idea what I could even get for it -- a few hundred bucks maybe -- ouch). Soon after I bought it, I could have kicked myself for not knowing about 1080p being so close on the horizon.

There are two different specs here...."720" vs "1080" and "i" vs "p". The 720 (or 1080) only refers to the number of horizontal lines of pixels. On a set smaller than 50", you would probably never see a difference between the two...but the 720 would be cheaper. As far as interlaced (i) vs progressive (p), that goes back to how CRT picture tubes work. On an interlaced set, the lines are scanned by the electron beam twice per frame...once on the odd numbered lines then again on the even numbered lines. Progressive scan means each line is scanned in sequence...1, 2, 3, etc. With DLP, LCD and Plasma there are no electron guns and no scan lines, as it displays all the image pixels simultaneously (or nearly so), so it is actually a moot point....at least that's how I understand it. Don't you love the confusing marketing practices.
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post #3771 of 4003
1/13/09 at 10:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayfore View Post

Sorry for the dumb question -- I think I'm right but want to make sure. If the difference will really not be much, then I will stick with this TV, but if a 1080p TV will give me a very nice benefit (w/ Xbox 360 too?), then I might have to upgrade. I figure, now that I have HD sources like the 360 and DVD player, as well as plenty of HD cable channels, I'd like to get the maximum picture quality -- as long as it would truly make a noticeable difference.

Most of the X360 games are 720p, so I would not upgrade just for it. The movies and tv shows they have available for download are also 720p. The HD DVD drive movies are 1080p, but that format is dead.

The PS3 may have more 1080p games available than the 360, but I believe the majority are 720p. Blu Ray movies are 1080p, but they still look very nice at 720p on this tv.

Of course tv prices are cheap, so if you want to upgrade go for it, but don't expect the majority of 360 games to be 1080p natively.
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post #3772 of 4003
1/13/09 at 8:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeWatcher View Post

There are two different specs here...."720" vs "1080" and "i" vs "p". The 720 (or 1080) only refers to the number of horizontal lines of pixels. On a set smaller than 50", you would probably never see a difference between the two...but the 720 would be cheaper. As far as interlaced (i) vs progressive (p), that goes back to how CRT picture tubes work. On an interlaced set, the lines are scanned by the electron beam twice per frame...once on the odd numbered lines then again on the even numbered lines. Progressive scan means each line is scanned in sequence...1, 2, 3, etc. With DLP, LCD and Plasma there are no electron guns and no scan lines, as it displays all the image pixels simultaneously (or nearly so), so it is actually a moot point....at least that's how I understand it. Don't you love the confusing marketing practices.

Thanks for the explanation... So 1080p is certainly better than 720p, but questionably better than 1080i. Our TV is natively 720p, and uses a scaler to achieve 1080i, so 1080i material on our set will not be as good as it will be on a TV that is natively 1080i.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Milmanias View Post

Most of the X360 games are 720p, so I would not upgrade just for it. The movies and tv shows they have available for download are also 720p. The HD DVD drive movies are 1080p, but that format is dead.

The PS3 may have more 1080p games available than the 360, but I believe the majority are 720p. Blu Ray movies are 1080p, but they still look very nice at 720p on this tv.

Of course tv prices are cheap, so if you want to upgrade go for it, but don't expect the majority of 360 games to be 1080p natively.

Thanks for the info... I didn't realize that most 360 games were 720p, just assumed that all of them for 360 and PS3 would be 1080p. Probably if the games were 1080p also, it would be worth upgrading now... But if that's not the case, then why throw away money. The majority of the movies I watch are SD anyway -- at least at this point.
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post #3773 of 4003
1/14/09 at 10:36am
Also keep in mind that in the next few years we'll have affordable 3d tv's (maybe without glasses). If you upgrade now you may want to upgrade in a few years for that...
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post #3774 of 4003
1/14/09 at 8:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Milmanias View Post

Also keep in mind that in the next few years we'll have affordable 3d tv's (maybe without glasses). If you upgrade now you may want to upgrade in a few years for that...

Honestly? But wouldn't we need content specially designed for that? We see how long it took for us to get HD content...
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post #3775 of 4003
1/15/09 at 11:00pm
I picked up a HLF5667W on craigslist. The guy I bought it from said he had no issues with the set. I've had it a few weeks now and occasionaly the tv will shut down and the 3 lights on the front will flash - after any amount of time I can turn the tv back on.

It has started to happen more frequently now that we've had it for awhile. The bulb has never been replaced and the service menu is showing almost 9500 hours.

I've read a lot on the board and it sounds like the culprit is most likely the main board - it looks like some people have fixed the flashing light issue just by replacing the bulb.

With almost 9500 hours is it possible that this problem is just from the bulb about to die?
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post #3776 of 4003
1/18/09 at 11:03am
I am having the sporadic loss of "blue" on my HLR 4667.

Most of the colors now show up as reds and greens.

I've tested, an it happens via component from my cable box and also via hdmi from my ps3.

But, when I pull up the menu, it comes up in its normal blue.

Does anyone know the cause of this? Board problem?
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post #3777 of 4003
1/19/09 at 9:54am
Have you tried using different cables?
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post #3778 of 4003
1/19/09 at 12:09pm
I need to replace my lamp; hopefully the new one will get here Wednesday or Thursday. I know the code to get to the service menu, but have never used it. How do I go about resetting the hours after I change it? After going into the menu, how hard is it to mess something else up?
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post #3779 of 4003
1/20/09 at 8:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kanstead View Post

Have you tried using different cables?

I think it was a problem with the component cables. Although they felt like they were plugged in when I first checked them - I later discovered that one was a bit loose where it was plugged into the dvr (I can't really SEE those cables).

Obvioulsy, that was the first thing I checked.

The weird thing was that it would happen on some days but not others - AND when it did, I had the same problem on the HDMI input - so I sort of dismissed it as a problem with the component cable.

Very strange how the component cable being partially unplugged could affect the HDMI picture. . . I'm still not sure how that works.

Anyway, I hope that was the solution.
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post #3780 of 4003
1/23/09 at 8:41am
Greetings,
With my Sony XBR Tube, Panasonic PX85U, Sony XBR 4 LCD, I've either been able to find service menu settings to that enhance/calibrate the picture or I've found other optimized picture settings. I've haven't had any luck with my HLR4667W, I guess I can resort to Avia but I'm horrible at that. BTW i got this television for $189 because the component 2 doesn't work, even when something isn't plugged it still detects something is plugged in. It doesn't matter since i'm using an Onkyo TXSR806 which upconverts everything to 720p 1080i/p
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