Samsung HLRxx67W Owners Thread --- 720p DLP HDTV - Page 133

Several weeks ago I turned on my DLP 5067. I notice first some green pixels on the screen. then it shut off. I then proceed to turn on the TV again, this time no pixels just a black screen then in about 2mins it shut down by itself. The Lamp light is blinking while the tv is on. Is this an symptom of a bad lamp or something else

Thanks,

does anyone know of a place here in ontario canada where a new bulb can be purchased?

Hi everyone.

I have a bit of a detailed question, and I'm hoping some of the DIY/Tweaker types have an answer for me.

I own a HLT5076SX - the 1080P slim chassis (circa 2007) that I bought as a floor model from Circuit City.

My dad gave me his HLR5067WAX because it kept "shutting off." I had replaced the lamp in it approximately 2 years ago, and discovered that I'd put the cover back on incorrectly with the safety switch in the wrong position. When the cover heats up it trips the protection circuit and shuts the TV off. After that, it would only periodically shut down. He bought a new set and said I could take the old one. I hooked it up and the picture is very, very dim. So, once again I am going to replace the lamp.

As for my HLT5067SX, I love the set. However, I encountered the dreaded white dot issue. A few calls and Samsung sent someone out free of charge to replace the DMD board. I noticed after the repair that my lighter colors were EXTREMELY saturated. So much so that if you were looking at a light area there was no detail at all. Yellows were really bad (this was during football season, to put it in perspective, the Green Bay Packers' helmets looked like yellow blobs.) Everything else was really, really crisp. I thought that maybe there was a burn-in cycle or time frame and that the issue would clear up. It did, to a degree, but is still unacceptable 10 months later. Another side effect is that when the screen is black with just the lamp on there is what appears to be a speckled pattern. Almost like sunshine through a canopy of leaves. When the TV goes to a brighter scene these spots will increase in size and then disappear as the scene comes to full brightness.

After all this lengthy explanation, my question comes down to this -

Are there common parts between these two sets? For instance, could I swap the color wheel from his set into mine? Etc.

I appreciate any help. I'll also post this in the HLT thread (if it exists.)

I remember when I looked for one a few years ago, I could only find one store in Ontario selling the lamp I needed (for HLR5078) and the price was 50% higher than in the U.S. I ended up purchasing online from the U.S. with no issues. As a matter of fact I will need another soon and I've just looked on eBay - you can find them in the $100 range. If you're worried about eBay, samsungparts.com has them for a few more dollars and I've heard positive things about them.

If you end up finding an Ontario store, please post here, as I would be interested as well.

I replaced the lamp (again) and it seems to have resolved the issue.

I have an HL-R4667W and recently replaced the bulb.

Lately the TV will not come on and displays the lights as if the bulb is bad. If I remove and reinstall the bulb the TV comes on fine and works for several days including our normal patterns of turning it on and off.

But after a few days it quits coming on again and I am forced to reseat the bulb again.

I tried to do a search but didn't have any luck.

Also, is this the right thread/forum to post in. I joined and subscribed to this thread back when I bought the TV but had to rejoin today as I couldn't remember/reactivate my old user account.

Thanks,
-Chip

I just replaced the bulb on my HLR4266w. Now, intermittantly, I noticed the screen likes to flicker. It's kind of subtle most of the time but its the entire screen doing it. The flickering frequency is also inconsistent. Sometimes it will flasher faster or slower. The amount of times it will flicker varies too.

I removed and reseated the bulb just in case the connection was bad but it is still doing it. Is there something else that could be going bad on the tv? Is this a voltage problem with this new phillips bulb that I can fix by changing something in the service menu?

Any help would be appreciated.

I have an HLR5067wx/xaa for sale in the classified section, with a recently replaced light engine and bulb. Its Pick Up only in Mineola, NY and I am asking $249.95.

Question for those that have replaced the digital board:

I replaced the digital board with one that I ordered online. I went into the service menu (using mute,1,8,2,power) and the parameter/option for changing the engine is missing. In other words, I cannot set the engine to Samsung. Also, when using this board, it's giving me an error than fan no. 3 is not working. When I put the old board back in, fan 3 fires right up.

The reason I swapped boards is because my picture and sound would randomly cut out for about 3 seconds, then it would come back and the HDMI caption would appear for a second (the same HDMI caption that pops up when you turn the TV on or switch inputs)

Thoughts?

Did you ever find out what was wrong with the tv. My tv just did the loud pop and lost the picture.

Typically that would be the color wheel letting go. If so, they're not super cheap but no longer are an arm and a leg anymore. The replacement is within the realm of possible for an average handy person. Take it apart and see. If it was the color wheel, it will be shattered and have pieces of glass everywhere.

Read up before ordering a replacement. There are two different versions out there.

Just keeping this thread moving...

I have two of these TVs, one in the main room and one for the XBox. I still love the picture quality of DLP above LCD or plasma. These TVs are holding up well too...in fact, I just purchased a replacement bulb for one of them as it has nearly 9000 hrs on it.

My HLR4266W is still going strong. I never bothered calibrating it or anything. Picture still looks great.

Sure, she ain't pretty--but that's what was on and the elderly often show the HD in painfully clear detail.

I replaced the lamp at over 11000 hours. The old one was still working, so I kept it as a spare. The new one only has 3000 hours on it.

And the video this came from....filmed on an iPad3.

Untitled 2.mov.zip 1269k .zip file

Stupid me... fumbled the new bulb and bounced it off a concrete floor... time to order another one. DOH!

Did you buy it with an Amex? I believe you get your money back with their automatic insurance (for breakage or theft) within the first 90 days or something similar.

Happy for you guys, that your TVs haven't failed like mine did! The picture was awesome, while it lasted. I only got a couple years out of my TV, and usage was not even that high, before its board failed. The reflow did not fix the issue, so I just gave up and found a home for the TV thru Freecycle. I wonder if the guy was ever able to get it fixed?

Perfecting timing for this thread to come alive. I was this close to getting a 50" Samsung plasma then thought better of it, then I got the email notification about this thread. My 46" is is almost 7 years old and is still going strong with the original lamp. I think back to when I got the TV from Circuit City (can't believe it was that long ago), the sales guy was absolutely certain I would at least need 1 lamp per year, and acted like I was crazy not to get the extended warranty.

I don't watch a ton of TV, and viewing on the DLP has dropped over the past few years with the addition of a couple smaller LCDs around the house. I keep waiting for it to die so I can justify replacing it with something slightly larger but it keeps marching on. A few years ago it went through a phase where it would randomly turn off. This happened a handful of times and then went away. My only complaints about the TV are the issues I had early on with audio lip sync problems. Ever since I canceled cable and switched to just OTA broadcasts, and got a switched HDMI receiver I haven't noticed the problem.

It does seem dimmer than it did when it was new, but tweaking the picture settings helped fix that. I think when the lamp finally does blow I'll probably upgrade.

If you've had your set a long time, you should post here

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1414925/the-how-old-is-your-dlp-tv-thread

The replacement (for the replacement) bulb finally arrived and I got it installed without incident...thank the Gods!

Guess I got lucky. The main board went flaky on my TV right before the warranty went out. The replacement board has been rock solid ever since.

My Samsung TV is 6 years old now and has been great. After replacing the bulb a couple months ago I decided to replace the ballast due to starting issues. With the new ballast the bulb fires right up, but the TV shuts off after only a few minutes. It never did this using the old ballast. As far as I can tell the fans are running too. I placed the original ballast back in the TV and now it won't fire the bulb at all.

I'm thinking the new ballast might have over-burdened the power supply to where it can't supply enough juice...any thought??
Edited by AzDragonLord - 8/26/12 at 10:32am

Found I didn't place the power connector on properly when I put the original ballast back in. I fixed that issue and the TV comes on again, but the issue when using the new ballast still remains.

Any ideas??

Just talked it over with the wife...we're buying a new 73" MITSUBISHI WD73C12 DLP television for less than $1200...with free shipping!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16889248080

We'll keep the Samsung TV to use as parts, since I have another identical TV in my XBOX room. Between the two of them I should be able to keep it going for a several more years.

Doesn't look like Newegg is an authorized Mits dealer. http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/locator/online/ Could effect your warranty. There's some pretty good deals from authorized dealers on the 73640.

I made a new thread for this question, But maybe I should have posted it here instead......



I mistakenly ordered a replacement L3 color wheel for my hlr5067w which has an L6 chassis. I have read that the actual color wheels are identical. The only differences are in the housings. If that is the case, then I could remove the color wheel from the new part and install it in my old housing. Does anyone know if this is true? i would love to have my TV up and running tonight when I get home from work. But for now, it looks like I am going to have to eat the 20% restocking fee and wait for the other part.

I've never had my colow wheel out, but if it looks do-able then give it a try. The bulbs also have the same issue...bulbs between even the same model may have different housings.

Have a cheap meritline HDMI switch since only 1 HDMI out, been using for some time, lately every now and then can't do video through PS3, 360 or apple TV stating not HDCP compliant. I tried bypassing switch and connecting HDMI cable to source directly, also tried switching out HDMI cable completely and going to source directly without HDMI switch Still having problem. Anyone have similar problem? Sucks to not be able to watch movies through any of these devices.

Lamps should not have different housings. Perhaps that is the problem with your TV. There have been numerous reports here on the forums of TVs not working after a lamp change which are corrected by using the proper OEM lamp bought from the manufacturer. There are many "OEM compatible" lamps being hawked out there that prevent the TV from operationg correctly. It is also recommended that you replace the lamp and cartridge together.

Your TV's start up issues only began after replacing the lamp. I would recommend getting a factory lamp and trying it with the original ballast. If your other TV is the exact same model number, you could use it's lamp to check, as long as it is not also an aftermarket lamp.

Two questions;
1. How many have had to replace the color wheel?
2. Has anyone had to replace any of the fans?