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Construction Begins - November Sky Theater - Page 13

post #361 of 681
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrodshook View Post

Mohaghany closeup


Walnut closeup


Hi Jarrod,

It's looking great! I noticed that there are some stain "blotches" on the plywood bead board. This is caused by uneven penetration of the stain. You might experiment with a light, thinned coat of shellac and try staining again. It will help the stain penetrate evenly and prevent the blotches. You can get a "2 lb cut" can of shellac at the big box store and dilute it 50% with denatured alcohol. It should be worth your time for a better look.

If you give the experiment a try, please post pics so we can all see the results.

Keep up the great work,
Scott
post #362 of 681
I had considered doing some type of board on teh bottom half as well and I like the look you have going there. I am anxious to see it all stained and beside the GOM above it....

Looks great!

Robert
post #363 of 681
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottS View Post

Hi Jarrod,

It's looking great! I noticed that there are some stain "blotches" on the plywood bead board. This is caused by uneven penetration of the stain. You might experiment with a light, thinned coat of shellac and try staining again. It will help the stain penetrate evenly and prevent the blotches. You can get a "2 lb cut" can of shellac at the big box store and dilute it 50% with denatured alcohol. It should be worth your time for a better look.

If you give the experiment a try, please post pics so we can all see the results.

Keep up the great work,
Scott

I think I mentioned somewhere that I applied to stain to the back of a piece of 1/4" birch and it was the unifinished side. Also, I did not apply the pre-stain conditioner so that will help. I might try and get the conditioner applied today and start staining in a couple days.... I hope.
post #364 of 681
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsberg34 View Post

I had considered doing some type of board on teh bottom half as well and I like the look you have going there. I am anxious to see it all stained and beside the GOM above it....

Looks great!

Robert

I can't wait until it's done either. I'm not doing actual GOM in the panels. I'm deciding between 2 different fabrics at JoAnn right now. I'm guessing they'll have a 50% off sale for July 4th like they ususally do on holidays. Once I decide, I'll post the pics.
post #365 of 681
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrodshook View Post

I think I mentioned somewhere that I applied to stain to the back of a piece of 1/4" birch and it was the unifinished side. Also, I did not apply the pre-stain conditioner so that will help. I might try and get the conditioner applied today and start staining in a couple days.... I hope.

Jerrod,

The pre-stain conditioner (Olympia) that I used on Ply was to only set for 30-60 minutes before staining. What type are you using?
post #366 of 681
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

Jerrod,

The pre-stain conditioner (Olympia) that I used on Ply was to only set for 30-60 minutes before staining. What type are you using?

I hadn't read the label yet.... I'm using Minwax and it says to apply stain within 2 hours of putting on the conditioner. I guess that's what I'll do.
post #367 of 681
Thread Starter 
Received all of the 703 and bulk cotton from Bryan yesterday. Started installing some of it last night.....

Here's the boxes


I cut some spacers and screwed to the drywall so there's a gap between the 703 and drywall. It also brought the 703 out flush with the beadboard.






In the last pic, you'll notice I have a large piece of wood in between columns. This is to mount the sconces on. I made sure the wood completely covers the box on the wall. There's a 3/4" hole for the wires. Some of the pieces are larger than others, but I at least wanted to get a couple screws into the studs behind the drywall. I also used liquid nails on the back of the pieces.
post #368 of 681
Thread Starter 
So once I had the 703 up on the side walls, I started putting scrim up on the rear sections of the wall. I didn't feel like disconnecting my lights to put the scrim on, so I just slid the scrim behind the fixutre. Here's what happened


The scrim touched the leads on the back of the fixture, sparks flew and the breaker tripped... so I was in the dark anyways.

More pics of the scrim installed.




post #369 of 681
Thread Starter 
The bottom of the rear wall is being used as a bass absorber. I'm using 1" 703 here as well.. spaced off the wall again.


Here it is with the 703 in.


And the top piece screwed on.


All the panels done. Each panel is caulked all the way around on the back to "seal" it to the frame. All of this per Bryan's instructions.
post #370 of 681
Thread Starter 
So, I was so excited to get the stage and soffits done, I didn't box in my HVAC return in the front of the room. It was a bit of a pain to squeeze a frame in there, get the drywall in and then caulk all the seams.







I filled in the space with insulation before covering it with drywall. The main reason I wanted this covered and sealed is to prevent sound from escaping the room around the ductwork.
post #371 of 681
Great work, Jerrod. It's coming together nicely. What is scrim for? I've seen it mentioned only a few times on this forum, and don't understand the concept.. I'd imagine you'd want AT fabric right in front of the 703.
post #372 of 681
Quote:
Originally Posted by miltimj View Post

What is scrim for? I've seen it mentioned only a few times on this forum, and don't understand the concept.. .

Tim,

I answer for Jerrod.. scrim basically reflects the highs but allows the lows to still penetrate. The scrim keeps the room from being too dead. It's a bpape trick that works quite well. He also mentioned butcher paper can do the same thing (just not as efficiently). I think SandmanX used butcher paper in his room.
post #373 of 681
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by swithey View Post

Tim,

I answer for Jerrod.. scrim basically reflects the highs but allows the lows to still penetrate. The scrim keeps the room from being too dead. It's a bpape trick that works quite well. He also mentioned butcher paper can do the same thing (just not as efficiently). I think SandmanX used butcher paper in his room.

That's pretty much what I was going to say. While I don't know for sure, I think Bryan had me put it on the rear part of the side walls to keep the highs "active" in that area where the seats will be. I don't know that the fabric I'm looking at is completely transparent.... Jo-Ann Fabrics is having a 50% sale starting Saturday and I already know which fabric I want/ I'll post pics sometime over the weekend.
post #374 of 681
Thread Starter 
Took care of some odds and ends today. First of all, the HVAC contractor was here and installed the heat pump and air handler. They'll hopefully be back tomorrow to finish up and startup the system. Here's a shot of the air handler in the closet....



The guys positioned the HT supplies so I finished up the drywall on the soffitts....




I am going to add a second layer of drywall on the underside and either a sheet of 1/2" or 3/4" birch plywood or the 1/4" birch on the sides of the soffitt to match the front soffitt above the stage. I will put black fabric over the drywall on the bottom of the soffits.
post #375 of 681
Thread Starter 
I also finished up some work on the riser and stage. Here's the riser steps I built.... I had scraps of 703 laying around and filled the steps with it.






For the stage, I added the 1/4" birch to the face of the stage and step. This will be stained to match the bead board on the walls. I also caulked the bottom of the stage for some reason.... I just felt like it I guess.

post #376 of 681
The idea with the scrim'd panels in the rear was that I wanted to provide some additional upper bass/lower midrange absorbtion in general and also needed some additional in the rear of the room to help smooth things out. This did both.

Bryan
post #377 of 681
Jerrod - man you flying - putting me to shame
post #378 of 681
I second that!! Looking gooood!
post #379 of 681
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys! I've been pushing hard lately to get as much done as possible. Baby #2 is currently scheduled for arrival on July 17, and once that happens I'll have a lot less time to work downstairs....

I ordered my black fabric from Dazian today. In total, I ordered 37 yards to take care of the front wall, soffitt bottoms, star ceiling, etc.

I also ordered some Belkin PureAV power conditioners. I'll use the PF60 for the equipment rack.


I also picked up the Home Theater Battery Backup that I'll use for my router, cable modem and whole house audio stuff that will go under my stairs.
post #380 of 681
Thread Starter 
Worked some in the theater last night. Not much to show though.... I added the second layer of drywall with GG to the underside of the soffits. I also sealed up all the openings intp the soffitts, including the HVAC supplies.



post #381 of 681
Thread Starter 
The painter was here today and primered the reast of basement, except the HT. Nothing special... but here's some before and after pics. He tinted the primer a light tan sine we're going to use paint in the brown family. My wife and I are going to pick that out Monday.

This is where the pool table and card table will go. Once again, the doorway is being closed off and a fireplace installed.





This is looking at the kitchen/bar area.





Another view back towards the pool area.





The kids HT and workout room



The hall outside the HT.
post #382 of 681
Jerrod, are you not going to texture your walls? Or are they just going to be flat. If you are going to texture I thought texturing before priming was optimal.

Drew
post #383 of 681
This is the first HT I've seen here (in my short viewing time) with solid wood below chair rail height along side walls. It seems most other HT has the Linacoustic below with batting above, all covered with GOM.

Won't the beadboard bounce the sound around, or is the 703 on top half of walls compensating for that?

BTW, looks great!
post #384 of 681
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by r00ster View Post

Jerrod, are you not going to texture your walls? Or are they just going to be flat. If you are going to texture I thought texturing before priming was optimal.

Drew

No texture on the walls.... That's too much work!

We might do some ragging or sponging.... somthing like that but no texture.
post #385 of 681
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Lem View Post

This is the first HT I've seen here (in my short viewing time) with solid wood below chair rail height along side walls. It seems most other HT has the Linacoustic below with batting above, all covered with GOM.

Won't the beadboard bounce the sound around, or is the 703 on top half of walls compensating for that?

BTW, looks great!

Thanks! The beadboard will probably bounce some sounds, but the wood is only 39 1/2" above the floor. So, it's below ear level and that was something I was advised to do, and knew I had to do. On the riser, the wood is only 27" above it, so it's well below ear level. With the fabric and insulation all the way around, plus the fact that the columns will be "open" and are packed with insulation, it should help deaden things out just fine.
post #386 of 681
Thread Starter 
Moving right along, started staining the bead board in the HT yesterday. What a nice smell that is!

I used Minwax stain... and used pre-conditioner since the wood I used is birch and is considered soft.


As stated earlier, I used the English Chestnut stain. It's oil based....

Here's a shot of the bear boad with 1 coat on. I waited a good 40-45 minutes and then went over it with a towel to remove any remaining stain... as well as to blend the light and dark spots. Honestly, the first coat looking really good and I even considered leaving it as is....




Here's a pic of the stage soffit. The flash makes the grain if the wood more visible that it actually is.




Here's a couple shots after the second coat.


post #387 of 681
Thread Starter 
Here's the left side of the room




And the rear. You can also see in this one that I added some 2" 703 to the rear walls. I still have to finish it up though.




I also covered the front wall with 2" 703.


I used a 3M spray adhesive (called Super 77 I think) and it worked great. I also used some 3" screws and washers for some extra support. The uncovered areas on the left will probably get some 1" on them. I need room to be able to replace the filter on the HVAC return. The space under the screen will be covered on I have the screen and locate a 2x4 on the bottom for support. On the right side will be the sub and I'm leaving that space uncovered.

Speaking of screens, I finally placed my order for a 120" Carada screen. I got the 2.35 size and the Brilliant White material. Should have it by the beginning of next week.....
post #388 of 681
Jerrod - that stain looks really nice! I'm sure that the pictures don't do it justice. Keep up the great work!
post #389 of 681
Wow man, thats looking sweet. Nice stain color choice also.

Ronnie
post #390 of 681
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie_jackson View Post

Wow man, thats looking sweet. Nice stain color choice also.

Ronnie

Thanks guys!

I was so freakin excited to get stain on the walls. I let the whole basement air out last night and all day today. The only issue I'm having is that it's 95 degrees outside and my once cool and comfortable (70 degrees with no AC) is quite warm and humid now!
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