The Official Samsung SlimFit HDTV Thread... - Page 6

But, my no smells...
Your Samsung SlimFit make a noise when is on ???

How is SD on these?

Mine makes a high frequency noise in more or less regular intervals. No idea why and how to get rid of it. Very annoying.

Has anyone seen the new Sammy SlimFit on their website? TX-R3080WH. 30" slim CRT---but the speakers are on the bottom. A few inches narrower so it can fit into some cabinets the 3079 won't. This is the form factor I have been waiting for. Now if LG and Tosh can come out with theirs, we might have some price competition! Seems like manufacturers are starting to get it by giving a choice of side speakers or bottom speakers.

The casing/bezel looks like an LCD/Plasma---looks really good. Check it out and please advise if anyone knows about release, cost, availability, etc. Thanks!

I wonder why the R3079 has a 32" measured pictured tube when the R3080 is listed with a 30" tube . I noticed this under the specifications tab. Am I missing something?

No doubt a misprint. Both are 30 in.

Probiably a missprint. Both are 30 in CRT's.

Ben Music

Both are 30 in CRT's.

Ben Music

I recently got my set from BB at Colma, CA.

From a 1st time HDTV owner no complaints with PQ on OTA HD Shows.
SD is still SD, however DVD playback is kinda soft.

I'm using a Samsung DVD-P241 Player, 525P out via component.
Anyone else experience this problem with DVD playback?

Thanks!

I've been growing very skeptical with regard to Samsung's published specifications. I don't know what's going on there but it certainly seems like one hand doesn't know what the other is doing.

First came the issue of the TX-Rs displaying, or not displaying 720p to the screen (I've initiated another email to Samsung on this issue, because I believe they are really misleading buyers and owners on this potentially cool option). Now we have 30" vs 32" - which is it? "Actual" tube sizes are larger and the set's "display" size. It's common in Europe to see data sheets with 32" for an identical set over here that's listed as 30" widescreen. They're not bound by the same advertising laws as we are here. Maybe the 3079 was initially a European offering and they've failed to correct the data sheet for US consumers.

I think Samsung needs to revisit their documentation processes.

The TXR3080 has the bottom speaker/floating screen design similar to their new plasmas and DLP's. Otherwise, the internals are the same as the 3079. It should be available in August.

I have one of these Samsung Slimfit 3079 model and I'm getting moving horizontal scan lines. These lines come up from the bottom and they can be seen clearly with white/light background display. Dark backgrounds seem to hide them. I only got this TV 6 days ago from Circuity City. This is the second 3079 with problems, the first one was DOA. I have called up Samsung tech support and they seem clueless. Is there anything I can do to fix this through the service menu?

Well now I am skeptical about the slimfit. Went to both Circuit city and Best buy yesterday to chekc it out. Both stores the Slimfit looked out of whack. The bottom of the screen curved upward.

Larry,
The bow is much more difficult to see if you leave the TV off I spent a week trying to calibrate mine to get the bow to go away. I ended up returning it to CC and replacing it with another set that is "bow" free. My thoughts on this are that you might expect to have to do some minor adjustments to the picture when you get a new TV home, but you shouldn't have to make any major adjustments using the service menu (which in some cases voids the warranty). I have not had to tweak anything but the color/brightness/contrast etc. on the Sony that I exchanged the Samsung for (certainly haven't had to adjust voltages to the various deflection circuits manually!) If you are feeling brave and wish to tweak make sure you write down EVERY setting before you start adjusting. The settings in the service menu (not the standard menu option) are unit specific for the most part so you wont be able to get them from someone else...just a word of warning. Take Care.

Never mind, I found the cause of my problem with my Samsung slimfit. A faulty UPS was causing it. I took it out and the horizontal scan lines went away. Now, the picture looks very good.

I just sampled a Samsung DVD-P941 via HDMI, didn't really notice any change in PQ.
I guess I just have tired eyes

So far so good...

Interesting...I wonder if they have fixed the horrible geometry that plagues the 3079...

I bought a SlimFit a week ago for $798 at BrandsMart and found the Red color to be all wrong. The Tint set from factory at 50, the red looked way too Pink (not red), it looks much better set at 33. This is the first CRT set I have had where I have had to adjust a color to get it look correct.

I will try the Service menu as described here to see if I can get a better picture. The reds now look as reds, but the pinks look like red now. I also have some horizontal lines that appear with a white background as someone else here stated.

I wish I could easily jump from video one (my TIVO) to component one (my Comcast DVR)

I just want to add another warning about the bowing problem. I went to cc yesterday to check this tv out. Theoretically its the perfect tv for my bedroom. At cc they were running a directv loop as a demo. I told the salesman about my concerns. As he was disparaging all of you "internet idiots" a directv orange banner appeared on the bottom of the screen. The
the bow was obvious. The cc salesman sends his apologies.

Anybody who actually likes and is keeping this TV (as I do and am)............what modifications worked out the best when calibrating in the service menu? Any suggestions?

This was posted earlier in this thread by "bocmir:"

Well, if you don't know already, to get into the service menu: with the set turned off, on the remote press MUTE, 1, 8, 2, POWER. That'll take you to the service menu. The menus you should be concerned with are DEFLECTION, VIDEO ADJUST 1 and VIDEO ADJUST 2.

Deflection handles geometry. To minimize overscan, you want to focus on the first four settings: V-AMP and H-AMP control how tall and wide the screen is (stretching, literally), V-SHIFT and H-SHIFT control the centering of the screen, vertically and horizontally. It works best to shrink the screen down quite a bit, on both planes, so that you have black borders all the way around. Then use V and H-SHIFT to center the screen. Once you're centered, use V and H-AMP to get your picture back to full screen. Be sure to go a few clicks over. Some feeds aren't quite as "big" resolution-wise as others. Make sure you test your settings with HD channels, standard channels, and any inputs you have like DVD, video games, etc. My settings are:

V-AMP: 26
V-SHIFT: 24
H-AMP: 20
H-SHIFT: 24

Once you have overscan eliminated, the other entries on this menu you might want to tweak are H-PAR, UP-COR, LOW-COR, H-TRA, BOW and ANGLE. Don't bother with the rest. I haven't seen them make any difference. I can't really explain to you what each of these does specifically, because honestly, I don't know. Just make sure to WRITE DOWN YOUR DEFAULT VALUES before messing with these, or anything. Set aside a couple of hours for tweaking and I'm sure you'll get good results. A copy of DVE and Avia running a geometry test pattern in the background helps. Just so you know, when in the service menu, your TV will still display the picture of whatever's connected to your selected input in the background, which definitely helps.

Video Adjust 1 deals with a few important settings. Only modify CTI_LEVEL, COL_AXIS, LTI_LEVEL and MELODY VOLUME in here. I haven't touched anything else. If you want to get rid of the annoying chimes that play when you turn your TV on or off, changed MELODY VOLUME all the way down to 0. COL_AXIS handles "red push". A setting of 1 (not 0 for some reason) turns it off. This is definitely recommended. CTI_LEVEL and LTI_LEVEL handle enhancement of chrominance and luminance; I turned them both down to 0 for a more natural picture.

Video Adjust 2 deals with the other very important stuff. Only modify GAMMA, DPIC_LEVEL, DC-TRANS, VM_LEVEL and SHP_CD. GAMMA, DPIC and DC-TRANS are all somewhat similar. Lower them. Turning them higher will make the picture darker and eliminate shadow detail. I recommended setting all three to zero and then using the basic "brightness" control in the regular menu to control everything else. SHP should also be set to 0 to prevent more artificial sharpening of bright colors. And of course, we come to VSM. Set VM_LEVEL to 0 to do away with the evil velocity scan modulation. You can even set it to 1, but I don't recommend any artificial effects.

When you're done tweaking, just hit power. When you turn your set back on, your settings will be reset, so be sure to take the TV off Dynamic picture mode and set it to custom or even movie. I suggest calibrating with DVE or Avia to get the best picture. Remember, though, ALWAYS record your original settings as there's no way to get them back. And a lot of this is trial and error. You'll probably be turning your TV on and off quite a few times to get to a picture you like best!

A properly calibrated set will probably look much different than factory settings. Let your eyes get used to it and they'll thank you. It will be more like looking through a window than watching TV.

Does anyone have a problem where the sound becomes delayed about a half second from the video? At first I thought it was just the OTA HD signal that was causing the problem, but I noticed it again watching a normal component DVD program with analog RCA audio inputs. Has anyone else had this problem? Could this be a service menu problem? The audio seems to trail the video so voices don't match the people's mouth moving. I'm getting pretty annoyed with this TV, it is my second Sammy Slim-Fit, I'm thinking of returning it, but I can't find a better deal anywhere with a HD tuner. Any suggestions? I'd like to stay under $1000.

I just bought the Samsung TX-R3079WH yesterday at my local CircuitCity. I had a price limit of $1000 and pretty much went by PQ. My wife and I narrowed the choices down to this set, a 30 in Philips widescreen and a 30 in Sony Wega. In the end we felt this set had the best PQ. Brought it home, hooked it up, adjusted with Sound & Vision and no problems. Haven't hooked up HD yet, looked at SD and DVD. Not seeing any bowing or any of the other problems mentioned in this forum. Sorry, they just aren't there. Maybe I got lucky. As for PQ, my son has a 51 in Sony HD in his room and don't see much difference. Just my 2 cents worth.

No problems getting sound through my Kenwood amplifier when watching OTA or cable, but when I play DVD's, only sound from the TV comes in. Do I need to switch something on in the TV to allow sound to pass through my Kenwood amplifier. I am sure this is a simple question to some, but I can't seem to figure it out. Please, in need of surround sound when watching DVD's. Help!!!

In addition, does the tv automatically notice the progressive scan dvd player, or do I need to tell the tv to switch to progressive mode?

*Sammy Slimfit
*Sony Prog. Scan DVD Player (DVP-NS50PS)
*Kenwood Analog Amplifier

Your Samsung has "autosensing" inputs, and has both 480p and 1080i as native resolutions. You never have to tell your set what scan rate is coming in - it'll figure it out just fine.

any input on no sound coming through the analog amplifier when I play DVD's?

If not, maybe someone can tell me what connections they have that is working for them. Specifically, what inputs in the back of TV to back of analog amplifier. By the way I am using component cables from dvd player to TV. Thanks.

It sounds (no pun intended) like you have your audio out from the DVD to your TV, right? Connect your audio audio cables from your dvd player directly to your amp, then you can select your audio from the amp instead of the tv.

Hope this helps.

I have the European version of the Slimfit. It seems the service menu is stuck at using the TV tuner channel 1. I can not display a DVD using any of the inputs. Unless the TV channel sends a test picture you can not calibrate the set in the service menu. Is this normal? Sounds like the stone age. Really, do you need a professional signal generator with RF out that costs several times as much as this TV to calibrate it? That's absurd.

The American version allowed me to use a test pattern via a DVD player with a component input. I used the Digital Video Essentials disk to calibrate the TV. I found whatever input I turned the TV off with, the service menu would open up at that input. Not sure why yours defaults to Channel 1.

Has anyone had the problem where audio and video have timing discrepancies? My audio seems to fall behind the video. I am just using the TV speakers right now. In the service menu I turned off things like Red Push, Gamma corrections, and a few artificial sharpening tools, could those have any affect on the audio timing? Anyway to fix this in the service menu? I thought it was just HD sources, but I found some of my DVD's with an analog audio input have the same problem. I'm beginning to hate this TV, it's my second one.

By all means, if you are within the return period, return this set. No one should have to feel that way about their set.