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Blazing Ridge Cinema construction has begun! - Page 38

post #1111 of 4394
Bud,

Did you order the materials directly from fabricmate?

billmac
post #1112 of 4394
Thread Starter 
Bill,

Sure did. Just give them a call if you need anything.

Bud
post #1113 of 4394
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

I think I'm gonna pass on the star ceiling. For a HT room, fiber is the way to go. I've just got too much going on these days and think I'll consider that a "future tweak" at some point. The fact that I have cans (no good places for symetrical sconces) sort of sealed that fate.

Bud


Bud, I have a similar issue with my existing cans and air supplies. I was thinking about making some extensions for the light cans and vents so they would be flush with the star ceiling. I figure with the spacing on the fiber between stars, I should have plenty of room without it looking like its missing something.

Ronnie
post #1114 of 4394
Thread Starter 
One coat of primer on the ceiling. I also used the same primer in the equipment closet. I decided to to go black in there.



I'll put the first coat of Georgian Bay on in the AM.

Bud
post #1115 of 4394
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie_jackson View Post

Bud, I have a similar issue with my existing cans and air supplies. I was thinking about making some extensions for the light cans and vents so they would be flush with the star ceiling. I figure with the spacing on the fiber between stars, I should have plenty of room without it looking like its missing something.

Ronnie

Ronnie

Well, that would have been the smart thing to do. I was hot and cold with doing it, I should been prepared for it.

Also, I picked up these insulation supports. They're metal wire, 16 inches long. I figured I would attempt to bend them and make my own T pins. 100 in a box for about 7 dollars. I'll let you know how that works out.

Bud
post #1116 of 4394
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Ronnie


Also, I picked up these insulation holders. They're metal wire, 16 inches long. I figured I would attempt to bend them and make my own T pins. 100 in a box for about 7 dollars. I'll let you know how that works out.

Bud

Cool, can you throw up a pic of the hangers? Hopefully my local guy will have some 5.5 cotton in stock next week. Im ready to button up the stage.

Ronnie
post #1117 of 4394
Keep on chugging man. Getting closer every day.
post #1118 of 4394
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie_jackson View Post

Cool, can you throw up a pic of the hangers?

Ronnie,

I think these will work out great. They're pretty stiff actually. Needed pliers to bend them. Got them at Lowes.




Bud
post #1119 of 4394
Nice job. Never thought of that. I've used those in ceilings before though. You're right, they're pretty tough.
post #1120 of 4394
Thread Starter 
First coat of Georgian Bay is complete. It is very dark. With the main cans on, it looks dark grey. With the rope light on, it looks a lot lighter. Unfortunately, with the rope light on, I can really see the roller marks and some small inperfections in the drywall. Soooo, I'll be working on touching up the drywall this afternoon after my sons game and I guess I'll have to spray the ceiling. I have a sprayer, just didn't want to pull it out just yet.

Bud
post #1121 of 4394
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bpape View Post

Nice job. Never thought of that. I've used those in ceilings before though. You're right, they're pretty tough.

Bryan,

Thanks. I looked into long "T" pins and anything over 4 inches were pretty expensive. I think this will work out great.

Bud
post #1122 of 4394
About the roller marks, just think..... if you did a star ceiling you wouldn't have to worry about. The paint should look good. Curious, if you have a sprayer why didn't you just use it from the start?

About the star ceiling, I think I'm definitely doing it. Can't wait! Should have my first inspection in a couple weeks. Feels like I've been saying that for months!
post #1123 of 4394
Thread Starter 
Jerrod,

It's a pain in the ass to clean. Especially for an area that's like 9x10....

Bud
post #1124 of 4394
Bud - on the roller marks - use a large knap roller and a LOT of paint. That should do it.

I had a real hard time on my last room with the ceiling and roller marks and it took 3 coats and the above technique to get it right. Good luck.
post #1125 of 4394
Thread Starter 
Eric,

Thanks. Will give it a shot tomorrow.

Bud
post #1126 of 4394
Thread Starter 
I went ahead last night and fixed my ceiling defects in preparation for another coat of Georgian Bay.



Here's what it looks like with the second coat with the main cans on. The flash really brightens it up. It looks almost black without the flash. Although it looks good in this picture, you can still see roller marks with the rope light on, just not nearly as bad. I may just bite the bullet and spray it.



I also primed my concession area, so hopefully that will be done this week.

Bud
post #1127 of 4394
Well Bud...if it makes you feel anybetter the picture doesnt show any roller marks

Seriously though...looks good, love the color.

Robert
post #1128 of 4394
Would like to see it with the rope lights on...seems like you can get so many different effects with different shades of paint and Id like to see how that color reacts. Thats close to a color I have been looking at to use below a starfield ceiling to just the top of the soffet....so I was wondering how the rope light would react off of it...looks good though

Robert
post #1129 of 4394
Thread Starter 
Robert,

With the flash on, it really looks great in the picture. Here's a shot with only the rope light on. I really like the color, but it's definitely a different look with the rope light on all the way. I little purply on the ceiling, but blue on the sides. If I put the rope light on about 30%, I don't see the roller marks. Also, the rope light is in the corner. I played today with pulling it out towards the front of the trey some and it gives it a different glow. I was also thinking about putting some flashing or foil up there to see how that affects the light. I also need to get the rope light track as well.



Bud
post #1130 of 4394
Bud,

Quote:


you can still see roller marks with the rope light on, just not nearly as bad. I may just bite the bullet and spray it.

Not to insult your intelligence, but I got a great tip from the paint guy at HD a few years ago on eliminating roller marks. Work one 4'x4' area at a time. Start in the corner and do the square, then do the same area directly underneath it. (I know you're doing the ceiling, so whatever you want to call "underneath"), then when you have done an entire 4' section of the ceiling from side to side, take the roller and run it the length of what you just painted. Do this for the whole ceiling keeping a wet edge and it really works good on the roller marks.

thanks for all the updates!

sdspga
post #1131 of 4394
Dark flat colors are just a bugger. I'd try another coat and follow the advice about the wet edge and a deep nap roller. I did 4 coats on my black ceiling to finally get everything to look smooth and even.

Bryan
post #1132 of 4394
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdspga View Post

Bud,
Not to insult your intelligence, but I got a great tip from the paint guy at HD a few years ago on eliminating roller marks. Work one 4'x4' area at a time. Start in the corner and do the square, then do the same area directly underneath it. (I know you're doing the ceiling, so whatever you want to call "underneath"), then when you have done an entire 4' section of the ceiling from side to side, take the roller and run it the length of what you just painted. Do this for the whole ceiling keeping a wet edge and it really works good on the roller marks.

thanks for all the updates!

sdspga

Insult! Insult! I'd take any advice right now.

Actually what I did was do a small section, then worked my way around the perimeter, then did the center. I did this figuring the rope light would show where I stopped towards the center. I figured if I made long enough strokes away from the center, then the marks would be far enough towards the middle the light would no show them. I think the ones I saw towards the front I went back and touched up. Argh!

Bud
post #1133 of 4394
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bpape View Post

Dark flat colors are just a bugger.

You're not kiddin'!

Bud
post #1134 of 4394
Thread Starter 
Just ordered 15 sections of 4 foot tracks for 1/2 inch rope light from NoveltyLights.com . One less thing to do on my list.

Bud
post #1135 of 4394
Its looking good Bud. I cant see roller marks in the pics either. If it gets to tough to cover them up, you might have to switch to the star ceiling

I picked up my rope light track at Home Depot. They have 8' strips for around $6 each. I just posted some pics of it on my thread.

On those T-Hangers you made, do you plan on just pushing them into the sheetrock and leaving them? Are they stiff enough to hammer into the studs?

Ronnie
post #1136 of 4394
Thread Starter 
Thanks Ronnie. Saw your riser. Looks great with the veneer and rope light! The stuff I got was 2.00 for 4 feet. Either way, it's cheap. At least the stuff you got has the tape.

I was going to just stick them in the sheet rock, I figured enough of them would do the trick. I think if you put then in a stud, it would have to be shallow. I would expect they would bent trying to get them in the studs too far.

Bud
post #1137 of 4394
These hangers you guys are talking about are just used to hold the insulation to the wall right...I guess I have never seen them in action so I am a little confused on what thier purpose is.

Love the rope lighting effect on the section just below the ceiling..i was thinking of doing the star ceiling and painting that part just below it that color or close..now that I see the effect your has I am certain I will go with something similar when it comes time. Would be nice to see how a reflective surface makes it look. If you experiment with that please post some pics as well.

Lookin good Bud
post #1138 of 4394
Thread Starter 
Robert,

Correct on the insulation supports (pseudo T pins I made). There are sections of acoustical cotton that need to be on the wall behind the speakers in my case that need to be attached. The T pins I found that were big enough were just too expensive, so I just made my own.

Bud
post #1139 of 4394
Bud- Love the ceiling! I did not have to deal with rope lights "accentuating" the ceiling like you have to but two coats of Georgian Bay seemed to do the trick for me. I just used the "M technique" when painting and walked it from side to side with the best roller they had. I would not get too worked up over slight imperfections. I know there were a couple of spots that I obsessed over at first but when I moved onto another part of the project and went back and looked for them- I could barely even find them. Also, I noticed with the Georgian Bay that the finish evens out more the longer it sits and dries. Looking good...
post #1140 of 4394
Thread Starter 
Hey Doug,

Well you should, since you're the one that got me on the whole Georgian Bay thing to start with! In regular light, it just looks dark. No roller marks or anything. It's only with the rope lights on. Maybe I'll try and get a close up shot.

Thanks for chiming in.

Bud
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