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Blazing Ridge Cinema construction has begun! - Page 41

post #1201 of 4397
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebr View Post

Hey Bud, have you tested out your fabric yet to see if you can see that bright foil scrim through it?

In my last two rooms you could see the difference between poly batting and linacoustic behind the fabric so I had to cover the whole thing with cheap, thin, black fabric to make it look uniform.


EBR, Where you using GOM? If not, what type of fabric where you using?



EDIT: Nevermind, I see that you DID use GOM (a very light color). I guess I should look around before I post questions.

Ronnie
post #1202 of 4397
Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog View Post

Thanks Steve.

What about GB trim and black baffles? Not sure I'd go this route, just another option.

Bud

that is the way I would go. I found a great price for black inside, white ceiling trim (that will be painted to match the ceiling) on the grEatest BArgain site todaY online.

Just search for this: Indoor Recessed Light Trim RXTM-603B Lighting Trims

Gary
post #1203 of 4397
Just FYI - the same deals can be found on the USALight site directly - and they have a lot of options. I bought some of my cans from them and they have good service. I found out that they were electronic transformers and my GE would require an interface to dim them. Since the interface cost more than a whole new set of 4" cans I returned the low voltage ones. Thing is, it was like three months later and they gladly took them back.

The prices on those trims actually scare me a little bit though as the Halo ones at Lowes cost over three times as much. Gary, please let us know when you get yours if they seem to be of good quality. Thanks.
post #1204 of 4397
Sure, I'll gladly be the guinea pig. I'll buy one and if they are good, I'll buy more...

Gary
post #1205 of 4397
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebr View Post

Hey Bud, have you tested out your fabric yet to see if you can see that bright foil scrim through it?

Have not yet. It does hide the drywall portions though. If I have to, I'll spray paint it!

Bud
post #1206 of 4397
I guess Bud just got the kids to bed...

(me too)
post #1207 of 4397
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by garykagan View Post

that is the way I would go. I found a great price for black inside, white ceiling trim (that will be painted to match the ceiling) on the grEatest BArgain site todaY online.

Gary

I actually ordered all the trims for the 4" cans, the concession area and the rest of the HT room through the Lighting, Fixtures, and Ceiling Fan store. It's where I got my 4" cans. Reasonable prices. I even ordered a few cases of bulbs for the whole basement. They ended up to be about half of what I would have paid at Home Depot. Hopefully all that arrive this week.

Bud
post #1208 of 4397
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebr View Post

I guess Bud just got the kids to bed...

(me too)

Actually they're still up, bathed and PJed, but going any minute. I had few spare mintues..

Bud
post #1209 of 4397
Thread Starter 
OK, this is what I got done this weekend.

Yesterday I applied what I hope to be the last coat on the ceiling in the HT room. I have not put the rope light back up, so not sure how the roller marks stand. Hung the door to the storage room and hung the door to the equipment closet. Both doors I had to pull a hinge off and mortise it out since it didn't sit right or close right. Pain in the butt. Put the ceiling vent back on in the concession area.

Today, I GOMed the front soffit, left and right soffits and a third of the large soffit. I used a combination of furring strips and used the Fabricmate track in strategic spots. worked well. I decided to just GOM over my in-ceiling surrounds. I thought through it and decided if required, I can go back and do the panel thing. Looks pretty clean as is.

Pictures to come, just a little tired to drag my ass downstairs again.

Bud
post #1210 of 4397
Hey Bud.
I feel your pain regarding painting the ceiling with flat paint.
I just finished Friday.
What a PITA.
2 gallons of Benjamin Moore 18% Kodak grey, dead flat.

It actually looks fine now unless there's a bright light shining parallel to the ceiling.
Initially I thought I had a disaster on my hands.

If I may, one tip and one caveat on painting can light trims.
My metal 4 trims had white rings and black baffles.

I painted the rings to match the ceiling.
Initially I tried doing it with my 40+ plus year old naked eyes.
Not good.
I set up my lighted, 5x magnified hobby lamp. What a life saver.
I used a small foam brush.

The caveat:
Be very careful handling the painted trims as a stray fingernail will scratch the new paint and require touchup.
The end effect is very nice and IMO worth the effort.
Hey what's one more extra effort after about 300 of them?
post #1211 of 4397
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebr View Post

C'mon Bud, don't let that stop you!

Put the kids to work...



(handiwork of my son - age 4 at the time)

Right back at you, pal....



Bud
post #1212 of 4397
Thread Starter 
Here are the doors I installed on Saturday. Still need to stain them (stain everything), install casing, crown, and base.




Bud
post #1213 of 4397
Thread Starter 
Here are some shots of the Black GOM installed. I had the 1000W halogens on to take the picture, it's pretty dark, to the point where you can't really see much blue on the ceiling unless the rope light is on.

It wasn't bad at all, if you have the right tools and think it through a little. I also used some of the fabricmate track under the soffits, which works out great really. It's expensive, but for a few areas, its not bad. BTW, the quote GOM as being 66 inches. I assume that means 66 usable inches. It's closer to 70 inches, but has a white edge on both sides.






You'll notice that I did not do around the projector. I need to finish out the projector box still. Once I have that done, I'll mount it then install the fabricate track around the perimeter of it, then install the GOM. I wanted to use the fabricmate tracking in case I ever had to get int he ceiling, move or switch the projector, etc. Gives me some flexibility.

Bud
post #1214 of 4397
I was wondering what you decided on the projector box. please post pics when you are done. Thx
post #1215 of 4397
Thread Starter 
Here are a few "how I did GOM" shots.

First thing I did was to lay down some craft paper (Home Depot, like 9.00 for a roll). I put it down because even sweeping a million times, I know there is still drywall dust and other stuff on the ground. I wanted to make sure the GOM wasn't going to get all dirty. Used painters tape to tape the seams. I also took my shoes off so I could walk on it.


I glued up all the fabricmate tracking with construction adhesive and drywall screws. I used fabricmate tracks where two seams met on the soffit. The track comes in 5 foot lengths, but you can butt pieces together easier. In the second shot you can see where I did this. This was under the soffit by the projector.



You need the right tools. I picked this stapler up on ebay for about 45.00. I'm using 1" staples. Also, you need really good scissors. I used a pair my wife had for material. I think they're Fiscars or something. I also used a silver Sharpie to draw lines in the material. Works well against the black. Works great on Linacoustic as well.



After cutting the material to length, I would temporarily put the fabric up with push pins. I'd line a bunch of push pins on the the linacoustic right below the area I was doing. I'd start in the corner (or the middle if working not on a corner) and start putting putting in push pins.

post #1216 of 4397
Thread Starter 
I'd then start putting in staples starting again in the corner and working my way down the wall (again, if doing a piece not in the corner, it's probably best to start in the middle and go one way or the other. Prior to starting the adjacent wall, I would temporarily pull the GOM and push it in the track on the opposite side, so there is no sags. I would assume if you're not using track, you would use push pins or a few staples just to hold it. I would work my way down the wall, pulling out the push pins and pulling the GOM towards the wall to keep it taunt. I would then do the adjacent wall using the same method, stapling as I go, pulling out the pins. Once I get to the track, I started in the same direction as I did the first wall, pushing the fabric into the track using a putty knife. This pulls the GOM pretty tight. On the end where the trey is, I just temporarily pulled it and tacked in with push pins in place.



After pushing the fabric into the track the whole way, there is some excess still. I carefully cut along a line and leave about half an inch extra. The track is 1" deep, so that leave about 1 1/2 inches or material for the track. I just then push all the extra fabric once trimmed into the track.



At this point, most of the material is now up. Now I need to tie it into the other seam and finish out the corner of the trey. I trimmed off the extra material where the corner of the soffit is, ensuring that I do leave enough and not cutting too much off. The extra now is at the seam where the side soffit begins. I start pushing that side into the shared seam. One I have enough pushed into the track, I trim the excess again, leaving about 1/2 inch. From there, I push that extra into the track and have a nice butted seam.


post #1217 of 4397
Thread Starter 
Now I need to tackle the corner of the trey. I used these cardboard insulation rulers I found, although drywall shims were recommended to me and are probably choice. I left enough material to wrap (fold over) the cardboard shim and work it into the corner. It left a decent line, probably could have been better with drywall shims though. I then temporarily pulled the GOM tight up in the soffit, which puts tensions on the folded over area. I then switched out my stapler for my brad nailer and used 1" brads in the corner to firm up the cardboard strips and hold the material down. I then made user there were no wrinkles by working the material sideways while at the same time pulling the GOM up over the soffit and stapling there. Done!





I had to go back and trim out the 4" can at this point, so I went felt around for it, then decided to just turn on the damn light. Stapled around the perimeter, then cut it out with a razor knife and cleaned it up with scissors. I plan on using Ronnie's technique to cover the staples and trim it out.



Here's what the crown will look like (granted this is not stained, or even stain grade crown) once installed.


Bud
post #1218 of 4397
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Milt99 View Post

Hey Bud.
I feel your pain regarding painting the ceiling with flat paint.
I just finished Friday.
What a PITA.
2 gallons of Benjamin Moore 18% Kodak grey, dead flat.

It actually looks fine now unless there's a bright light shining parallel to the ceiling.
Initially I thought I had a disaster on my hands.

If I may, one tip and one caveat on painting can light trims.
My metal 4 trims had white rings and black baffles.

I painted the rings to match the ceiling.
Initially I tried doing it with my 40+ plus year old naked eyes.
Not good.
I set up my lighted, 5x magnified hobby lamp. What a life saver.
I used a small foam brush.

The caveat:
Be very careful handling the painted trims as a stray fingernail will scratch the new paint and require touchup.
The end effect is very nice and IMO worth the effort.
Hey what's one more extra effort after about 300 of them?

Thanks Milt, will keep that in mind!

Bud
post #1219 of 4397
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nosdude View Post

I was wondering what you decided on the projector box. please post pics when you are done. Thx

Will do.

Bud
post #1220 of 4397
Thread Starter 
Tracks for the rope light arrived.


Bud
post #1221 of 4397
VERY NICE. Looking great Bud!!

Jason
post #1222 of 4397
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jikkjack View Post

VERY NICE. Looking great Bud!!

Jason

Thanks dude. Gettin' there....

Bud
post #1223 of 4397
Bud,

What style of the fabricmate track did you use? I need to build 2 panels to attach around my frame where my speakers will be and am trying to figure out what style of the track will work the best. Thanks.
post #1224 of 4397
Thread Starter 
Barhoram,

I used the 1" FS-150. Works great. They have a beveled edge version as well.

Bud
post #1225 of 4397
BUd

That blue ceiling really looks great next to that black GOM and you did a really good job with the GOM too.....looks awsome!!

Robert
post #1226 of 4397
Thread Starter 
Thanks Robert.

You don't really notice the blue unless the rope light is on. I played around with metallic tape some under the rope light, didn't make much of a difference. What mattered was how far away the rope light was from the wall. If you pull it away from the wall, it looks light blue on the sides and top. If its against the wall, you get dark blue on the sides and light blue on top. Haven't made a decision yet which way to go. I'll need to get the tracking up this week.

The GOM wasn't bad really. The GOM has some stretch to it, enough to pull out wrinkles and stuff. I'm not sure I bought enough black GOM to do the screen wall, I'll find out in the next day or two and order it with the wall fabric.

Bud
post #1227 of 4397

Bud,

Does the ceiling color look darker in person? I ran the "night sky" ceiling color by my wife yesterday and she liked the idea.

Also, I may spray my ceiling just to avoid roller marks (maybe ). Maybe I can get away with (2) coats and call it a day.

BTW -- great job on the GOM application.
post #1228 of 4397
Thread Starter 
Steve,

Thanks.

That's the color, but the color you see in the GOM photos has 1000W (literally) shown on it. Without the rope lights on and the main cans on, it looks almost black with a hint of blue. With the rope lights on, the center looks grey with light blue/dark blue around the edges. It's very dark and most people wouldn't realize its blue without the rope light on.

Bud
post #1229 of 4397
Thread Starter 
Steve,

Took three more shots for you (pardon the blurriness).

The first is what I would call "pre-movie". Push a button on my controller and all the lights go on (minus the cans in the main ceiling and rope light on).


The second is with the rope light off. I left the stage cans on or you'd be pretty dark. Notice the ceiling is hardly there at all ( I can see it in the original photo *barely*, but in this picture you can't really see it).


Last is with main cans on, but again, no rope light. Whats interesting about this shot is you can see some blue around the perimeter, even without the rope light, but look how dark the ceiling looks.


If you've seen the infamous Milano blue, it's the same effect, although brighter since it's a lighter blue. Looks like a dark grey middle with the rope light on, but light around the sides.

Hope this helps.

Bud
post #1230 of 4397
4 gallons of Sherwin Williams Georgian Bay - $120
21 yards of black GOM - $250
Having a theater as cool as Bud's - Priceless!

Bud,


Looking forward to the final push to the finish line before your company arrives. Theater is looking absolutely fantastic! Anxious for more AE-900 reviews when you are up and running. I have the 700 and want to know if an upgrade is in order. Keep on rolling!

Scott
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