Blazing Ridge Cinema construction has begun! - Page 42

Scott,

Thanks man. It's going to be a tight squeeze time-wise, but it'll be close... I'll keep the reviews in mind as well.

Bud

Steve,

Another followup and another example of ceiling color.

These shots are from CaptainRandy's theater (www.cinemamurray.com) and he has the Milano Blue ceiling. As you can see, it's very light blue-purple color and towards the center, you see it greys out some with the rope lights on. When the lights are off, the ceiling turns completely grey. I wanted something a little darker.

http://homepage.mac.com/cptnrandy/.P...D983D611D7.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/cptnrandy/.P...7F83D611D7.jpg

Thanks for the images Randy!

Bud

Air2mag,

No sweat. I found when I started looking through AVS that there is so much material to review, that I wanted to post as much as possible when I did mine. I found those other threads that went into details with pictures and descriptions really helped as well. I just hope if there is something that is not clear or I missed that someone reading this thread would keep me honest and let me know. I do get a fair amount of PMs asking questions and I'm ok with that. If people would post to the thread, then someone else may have the same question. Either way is fine though!

There have been a lot of people here who have also questioned ideas that steered me in other directions and thats great. I don't know all this stuff, so its nice to get opinions, fresh thinking and another set of eyes on things. I appreciate all the comments. Hey, we're all here to learn and enjoy!

Thanks for the post.

Bud

I started the screen wall. Some of these pictures are DARK! I hope you guys can still make things out. Remember this? So far it's working out nicely.


First thing is first. I cut a section of GOM, rolled it up and put it aside for the last section around the projector. Then I took the screen off.

After I took the screen off, I laid out the fabric on the wall and use my trusty push pins to secure it. I left a few inches on the sides. I used the same technique, starting in the middle and worked in one direction, removing the push pins as I went, pulling the fabric taunt and putting in staples. You can barely make out the pins, they're clear



Next thing I did was put a few pins in the sides to hold the fabric taunt across the middle. I then proceeded to cut out the area behind the screen. I left a few inches all the way around the screen in order to use that slack to pull the GOM around the framing. I did the top and sides and left the bottom untouched initially.



I started stapling from the middle of the screen and wrapping the GOM under and around the framing and worked my way in one direction. When I got to the corner, I cut a 45 degree angle in the fabric to the corner, then finished stapling. I did the other direction, then moved to the sides and worked my way down. After completing both sides, I tacked down the bottom part of the screen so I could lay it out and cut the remaining GOM.


I trimmed off the excess and put that aside. I stapled the the GOM onto the horizontal top of the framing and removed the pins as I went. Once it was secure to the top portion of the framing, I started to wrap the bottom portion of the GOM on the underneath side. I would make slits in the GOM where it hit a stud.


Now the large area is done, I then repeated the process for the sections where the left and right channels will be located. These will be covered with panels. I did both sides and as before, I left a few extra inches where I cut it out, could wrap it, cut the corners at 45 degrees and stapled.


Continued...

Look Ma, no seams!


Next thing was to put the screen bracket back up. I had marked the bracket on center, remeasured the center and lined up the two marks. I then felt around for the existing bracket holes, put the screws in and leveled it.


Finally I put the screen back up and centered it.


Next step for me is to build the panels and trim out the bottom.

Bud

Steve,

It's frosted white. If you go clear, it may not diffuse as evenly (so I'm told) , but no direct experience with it. Looks like Ronnie used clear around his riser and seems fine. Also, another thing to keep in mind about the "greying out" in the middle of the ceiling when using Milano or even Georgian Bay. When I saw Milano Blue at DEs place, the area of the ceiling was much wider than mu little 8x10 trey. If the area is more spread out, the darker the center will be. Also, it might make a difference how deep the trey is (mine turned out to be maybe 7-8 inches. If your rope light is close or farther from the ceiling, might be a different effect as well.

Bud

My trim and baffles arrived for the HT room and the concession area. I painted the 4" trims flat black with my trusty Rustoleum. Already applied the second coat. I'll do the Milt lamp test to try it out. I picked up one of those aerosol sprayers with the jar on it tonight and sprayed the four 6" trims GB. The sprayer requires latex paint to use a 3:1 ratio with water, so I went a ahead an gave it a shot. Looks OK, may need another coat or two. I'll give it another coat in the morning and see what happens. I may just use a foam brush as well if it doesn't work. Anybody use one of these things? I also installed the three white trim/baffles in the concession area. Bulbs shipped, not sure when they're arrive. I also need to extend the trim a little using Ronnie's technique.

AND last but not least, I ordered 33 yards of GOM for the walls today!

Bud

Hey Randy,

Thanks. In the home stretch now ... for the HT anyway.

Bud

You snooze, you loose. Still need to work on the traps, its on my short list. I'll keep you posted on the home made T pins. I'm hoping the GOM for the walls will be here before the end of the week, it ships out of NC.

What Dremel bit did you use to cut your rings? I have so many, not sure whats what. I was thinking of using a drywall bit.

Bud

Just got an email from Yvette at Fabricmate, looks like the wall fabric will be here by EOD on Friday!

Bud

Mike,

Sounds like what I'm doing actually.

The vent that you see in front of the projector is to pull the heat away from the projector. If you look behind the projector, you can see a thermostat that will kick on when required. This will be inclosed in the projector box. At the end of the 4" duct ia an inline fan that dumps out in my workshop.

The AE900 vents from fropm the front corner, in my case, since its ceiling mounted, it's the left side. Table or shelf mounted, it'll be the right side. The intake is from the back corner on the same side as the exhaust.

The projector box, when complete, will be used really to hide the projector, versus trying to "hush" it. I want to make sure it has plenty of room and ventilation. I just don't want to see it hanging there. I'm thinking about a new design for the projector box that will allow me to mount it under the soffit, but the sides will be hinged to allow me to get to everything easily. Still thinking through it.

Bud

My extra door arrived!

I'll probably run over tomorrow to Home Depot to get it, some double sided tape for the rope light tracks, some biscuits and some lumber to build the panels for the front screen wall.

Bud

I bought it from Noveltylights.com. I bought the 150 roll. I have extra is I have any problems, plus I use it in the tents outdoors on the deck when we have parties and movie nights.

http://noveltylights.com/Rope_light2.htm

Bud

Good one! Where do you get such a beast? Joans? Milt, where are your pictures, man?

Bud

I bought the 150 foot, which included like 4 power cords, connectors, end caps, etc. I used on of the 6 foot connectors for mine, just have it laid flat on the cove. Are you thinking of getting a custom length? Not sure on the twist on caps.

Bud

Hey Brian,

Anytime you feel the need to send money, just PM me. I accept





Bud

I played around with the *large* (6x6) sample and from what I can tell, it's not visible. It's a tighter weave than the FR701, but you can still put it up to the light and see through it.

Bud