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Add Cooling Fan to A/V Cabinet - Page 20

post #571 of 585
Use a relay
post #572 of 585
Hi all,

I was thinking of going with 2 120mm fans from cool components. The application is a large av cabinet that will be cooling a power amp. The units are variable speed, always on(not interested in thermal control), and will be powered through a switched outlet.

Does anyone have any feedback on the cool components units in terms of problems or noise complaints?

Thanks in advance
post #573 of 585
Originally Posted by Shopping-TVs View Post

Does anyone know how to add a cooling fan to an A/V Cabinet? I've found many fans at places like Fry's or Radioshack, but I am not sure how to wire the unit to an AC plug? I'm not too savy when it comes to electrical. Any advice appreciated!

The first thing to consider is a passive approach to improving cooling. I was having problems with my AVR overheating while listening to action movies at high levels. I bored a hole several inches in diameter behind the AVR and just below the top of the cabinet. The problem went away and the whole cabinet's internal temperature dropped.

I was seriously considering a solution with cooling fans, but it became unecessary.

If I was adding cooling fans, I would worry about increased noise. Large diameter fans turning at slow speeds address this problem. I would also want to have some kind of speed control so that the fan was turning no faster than would be required to obtain the desired amount of cooling.

Here is a package of products that I would consider:

(1) A 12 volt DC power supply. Even the largest fans only use a few tenths of an amp, so a 1/2 or 1 amp power supply would suffice:


A fan speed controller:


A large diameter slow speed fan:


post #574 of 585
Originally Posted by jekbrown View Post

Anyone have any tips on switching a standard PC case fan on via the 12v trigger on the back of my Denon AVR2313? Not looking to power the fan via the trigger....just tell the fan to turn on. I know it's possible and the AV cooler guy on ebay sells fan kits that include a module to do this....but he doesn't sell said module seperately as far as I can tell and I'd like to use different fans/speed controllers. Any tips?

There are usually a bunch of spare power connectors inside the PC. The ground line is usually a black wire and the 12 volt line is usually a yellow wire. The connectors are usually the type called "molex". You can buy these connectors in electronics store or you can liberate one from a cheap CPU fan. The power drawn by PC case fans is usually trivial and running them directly from PC power should have no bad side effects.
post #575 of 585
Hello all, I am trying to revive this as someone might have come up with new things, I actually found this at walmart, it's a power adapter that has molex adapters so you just need the fan(newegg has good prices)



this is my new project and it's just on the planning, I am trying to cool off an Onkyo HT-S5000 which I heard gets pretty hot.

I am trying to use some stuff that I have lying in the house, I have several old desktops with their power supply but I think that might be overkill to power two 120mm computer fans, also the power supplies are the size of a brick. I also have several power adapters from an IBM laptop thinkpad T41(I think these are 9v) not sure if these will work.

Any advice on either using the desktop powersupply or the laptop power adapter?

This is the technical info for the laptop power adapter, 16V might be too much?

AC adapter: This ac-to-dc converter supplies the necessary power to the computer. The ac adapter also charges the battery pack when it is installed in the computer.
Universal AC adapter (72 W):
Input is 100/240V AC, 1.4/0.7A, 50/60Hz
Output is 16 V dc, 4.5 A
post #576 of 585
A small "wall wart" DC power supply will power a fan. Look at the amperage rating of the fan and buy one that meets the specs. I used one of the "universal" DC adapters with adjustable voltage - which works as way to adjust the fan speed (a static setting). A laptop power supply is way overkill, too. These fans are usually <15W...

Also, the power supply you show has a 16V output, which is above the 12V input most fans will use. 16V may kill it.

post #577 of 585
Also be sure that there is an adequate sized air intake as too small an intake will cause the fan to over heat as well as increase its noise level. - sort of like blocking the hose on a vacuum cleaner. Use convection to help move air. Cool air should enter at the bottom front of the rack and exhaust near the top rear.
post #578 of 585
I need some advice, I don't know much of this but from my research these are the two methods that I am looking at with their aprox costs.

Any advice on either one of the methods is much appreciated, I want to know if I really need a CPU fan speed controller as it gets a little complicated with the molex connectors or should I just strip the cables and solder them, if not I think I might have to purchase additional molex connectors/adapters

This is an instructive I found only, this is the cheap method.


So Method one, cheap method
- one DC 9v adapter, I can find one in the house, 9V instead of 12v as it will have the two fans running slower than at 12V - if this is inaccurate please let me know. cost- free
- 2 CPU 120mm CPU fans - newegg has 4 of these for $14 free shipping
- one on/off 12v switch cost $5
wires will be stripped and connected to the switch, this is for a two fan setup
total aprox cost $13 per set up.( I am looking to build two of these 2 fan setups)

Method two

- 2 CPU 120mm CPU fans - newegg has 4 of these for $14 free shipping
- one on/off 12v switch cost $5
- one CPU 3 or 4 pin speed fan controller - ebay $4
- one Raidmax molex 12V DC adapter from walmart $12 shipped
aprox cost per set up : $28
post #579 of 585
Why dont you just use one of these...


Ive been using one for three years with 4 SilenX 120mm case fans and it works perfectly.
post #580 of 585
So glad I stumbled onto this thread. I've got a issue and need advice. I'm building a custom AV rack/cabinet. I will need fans to help keep it cool. My design is to put a fan or two at the bottom bringing air in and a fan at the top to exhaust hot air. So here are my questions:

1) Thinking of using the Pyle PFN41. But is it thermostat controlled or does it just display the temp?
2) If it is thermostat controlled can I wire in 1 or 2 Pyle PFN31? This way they would all kick on together.
3) If this whole plan sucks mad.gif what options would you recommend? I'm working on it this wknd and need an answer ASAP. I don't need to install the fans this wknd but do need to plan where they're going and how I'll route everything. Thanks
post #581 of 585
After skimming through this post I found this higher quality component:http://www.coolcomponents.com/Component-Cooling-System-_p_191.html

I might consider it for my Marantz 8801. I don't remember seeing a link to them in any of the posting here but if it is I wonder if there are any reviews?
Edited by Audiguy3 - 12/21/13 at 3:24pm
post #582 of 585
Originally Posted by Audiguy3 View Post

After skimming through this post I found this higher quality component:http://www.coolcomponents.com/Component-Cooling-System-_p_191.html

I might consider it for my Marantz 8801. I don't remember seeing a link to them in any of the posting here but if it is I wonder if there are any reviews?

It's metal box with some fans and a wall wart, not much that can go wrong there unless they skimp on the fans. Even at that, you can get 4 new fans for like $15 at newegg.
post #583 of 585
Hi guys,

Sorry to bump a relatively old thread but I've been reading casually through it to garner a few ideas regarding cabinet cooling.

I've just today added a couple of silent 120MM fans to the rear of my cabinet, which is closed at the sides and mostly at the back (apart from some cable holes).

The cabinet has two shelves with my AV amp and Meridian power amp sitting together on the bottom shelf.

Prior to adding the fans there was a lot of hot air gathering in the bottom half around the amps and the top of the Onkyo was hot to the touch.

Now that I've added the fans, the amp casings are much, much cooler to the touch and the general 'atmosphere' in this little area is much cooler. This leads me to believe the fans are doing a good job of pulling in cool outside air through the front of the cabinet over the equipment.

However.. the onboard temp readout of my Onkyo 705 (using the 'hidden' temp menu) seems to read a couple of degrees (Celsius) higher with the fans on when "idling".

This is weird and doesn't tie in with the lower "ambient" and casing temps!

Should I ignore the onboard reading and consider the lower temperatures a good thing?

Thanks smile.gif
Edited by Howard-Canning - 1/26/14 at 11:00am
post #584 of 585
Very possible the onboard temperature sensor is getting a different reading as the airflow changes when the fans are on. If the temperature measured around the components is lower, and you aren't blocking up any passive venting on the components, then you're fine...
post #585 of 585
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