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the definitive Grafik Eye master thread!! - Page 42

post #1231 of 1342
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiefrude1 View Post

I have a grafik eye 3106 and would like to run some rope lighting on one of my zones. Ive read that it was possible and I read that it wasnt possible because there was not enough wattage draw from the rope lighting. Can anybody clear this up for me please?And if somebody has done this how did they go about it? Thank you for your help and time.

I've got incandescent rope light as one zone, with more than enough load to meet the minimum requirements. If you use LED rope light, even if it's dimmable, you will probably run into problems with the 60W (IIRC) mimimum load, as <1 Watt/foot is common for LED rope...

Jeff
post #1232 of 1342
Did you direct wire the rope light?
post #1233 of 1342
....I run a 75 ft LED rope light (ceiling soffit perimeter) directly wired as one of the zones to my 3106. Worked for me, however YMMV
post #1234 of 1342
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiefrude1 View Post

Did you direct wire the rope light?

Yep. Since the rope light specs will give a watts per foot rating, you can easily figure the load your zone would have. I have about 160' in my zone.
post #1235 of 1342
I am going to be running the high voltage wire in my theater tomorrow. In order to direct wire the LED rope would I just run the romex to the GE location and terminate it in a junction box to be wired into the LED rope later?
post #1236 of 1342
...I would suggest a single gang outlet box, for making a plug/outlet connection with the rope light.. For safety and in some areas to meet code, the outlet/plug devices should be special, non-standard design, to prevent someone from plugging in a vacuum cleaner, or whatever, into the GE dimmer circuit. Lutron makes such a dimmer circuit outlet/plug device pair.
post #1237 of 1342
What is the difference between the Grafik Eye QS and IA series? Thanks.
post #1238 of 1342
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedi View Post

...I would suggest a single gang outlet box, for making a plug/outlet connection with the rope light.. For safety and in some areas to meet code, the outlet/plug devices should be special, non-standard design, to prevent someone from plugging in a vacuum cleaner, or whatever, into the GE dimmer circuit. Lutron makes such a dimmer circuit outlet/plug device pair.

So just a standard plug and the dimmer on the other end?
post #1239 of 1342
....a non-standard plug and receptacle at the rope light end, and the GE at the origin.
post #1240 of 1342
Can anyone help in sourcing a masonry box for my Grafik Eye? Remarkably, Australian suppliers of wall boxes seem completely confused over the size required... perhaps it's the imperial measurements?

I wondered if this would be any good? Or does someone know of another supplier that will ship to Australia?

Quite urgent, this is... my electrician is on site as we speak...
post #1241 of 1342
...depends on which GE model you have. A six-zone model such as the 3106 is designed to fit into a 4 gang standard box. The masonry box is recommended because it is constructed deeper, allowing additional space behind the GE device to accommodate the large twisted bundles of the 7 common leads and the separate twisted bundle of 7 ground wires. Since masonry boxes have no external flanges, the electrician will have to be creative in affixing one to the wall studs.
Edited by Jedi - 2/20/13 at 2:57pm
post #1242 of 1342
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedi View Post

...depends on which GE model you have.

Apologies... it's the Grafik Eye QS. Dimensions stated in the installation manual are:

7.9 inches wide
3.75 inches high
3.5 inches deep


Thanks in advance...
post #1243 of 1342
A six-zone model such as the 3106 is designed to fit into a 4 gang standard box. The masonry box is recommended because it is constructed deeper, allowing additional space behind and around the GE device to accommodate the large twisted bundles of the 7 common leads and the separate twisted bundle of 7 ground wires. Since masonry boxes have no external flanges, the electrician will have to be creative in affixing one to the wall studs.
Edited by Jedi - 2/20/13 at 3:13pm
post #1244 of 1342
Interesting... meeting with my electrician today, he seems to think a wall box is unnecessary -- it can just screw directly into the top and bottom noggings.

Is there a specific reason the back of the unit needs to be enclosed in a box, rather than just in the wall?
post #1245 of 1342
All line voltage devices (plugs, switches, etc...) need to be installed into a box. You can't have electrical connections made behind the wall without a box.
post #1246 of 1342
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnson4 View Post

Interesting... meeting with my electrician today, he seems to think a wall box is unnecessary -- it can just screw directly into the top and bottom noggings.

Is there a specific reason the back of the unit needs to be enclosed in a box, rather than just in the wall?

Electrical code in the US requires it, as sebberry mentions, but code in Tasmania may allow it? Electrician should know - but it should definitely be treated like any other line-voltage device (switch, dimmer, etc.).

Jeff
post #1247 of 1342
...as others have stated, according to US building codes, any line voltage electrical connection must be housed in an accessible electrical box. Even if this is not a requirement where you live, in the case of the Grafik Eye device, there are further reasons. This device generates mild heat, and the metal box enclosure helps to dissipate that heat. Clearance must be provided around the box installation for this purpose. If you surround the device with wood noggins, it will run too hot, and likely will fail prematurely. Also, installing a heat source directly against combustible materials is never a good idea. Have him install the box, and make sure clearance exists around three open sides of the installation for heat dissipation.
post #1248 of 1342
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Electrical code in the US requires it, as sebberry mentions, but code in Tasmania may allow it?

Thanks for the replies. Apparently it's not a requirement here in Australia (all switches, transformers etc just fit into the wall cavities without enclosures, unless they require weatherproofing). But as Jedi says, the heat dissipation may obligate one in this case.
post #1249 of 1342
I bought a plastic new work 4 gang box at HD the other day. Will that work for a 6 zone GE?
post #1250 of 1342
..wraunch, I believe you are going to need more internal wiring space than a plastic 4-gang box offers, especially deep within the cavity. The metal masonry box variety has nearly 90 cu inches of uninterrupted cavity space, and the metal dissipates heat better. If you can't find one locally, I believe Hanks Electrical Supply sells them online.
post #1251 of 1342
post #1252 of 1342
....I wouldn't want to try it.
post #1253 of 1342
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedi View Post

....I wouldn't want to try it.

+1

I would look for a deep metal box. The squared back will give you lots more room to stuff folded up wire.
post #1254 of 1342
Anyone ever seen one of these deep metal boxes at Lowes or HD? I need one for Monday when my electrician comes.
post #1255 of 1342
I assume you mean I need a box like this?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/RACO-Electrical-Box-2DDA3?Pid=search

How would you attach that box to the stud?
post #1256 of 1342
..Raco 698 is what you need. That price is triple what the Raco can be found for if you shop around. Check with local electrical supply houses, and ask for Raco 698 or equivalent (3-1/2 deep, four gang, metal masonry box, non-gangable) .
post #1257 of 1342
.....one thing more, don't let them steer you towards assembling a gangable box, it won't work, the gang tabs will interfere with the GE. You need solid, non-gangable construction.
post #1258 of 1342
Thanks Jedi. How do you attach that to the stud?
post #1259 of 1342
Does a regular SeeTouch keypad worth with a Grafik Eye QS?
post #1260 of 1342
Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

Thanks Jedi. How do you attach that to the stud?

..I drilled screw holes in one end and affixed it with two or three wood screws. Don't forget to set it proud the thickness of your drywall. Keep the insulation clear of the box by a few inches, when that time comes.
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