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the definitive Grafik Eye master thread!! - Page 18

post #511 of 1363
3/13/08 at 10:53am
From earlier posts in this thread:

http://www.hankselectric.com/item156207.ctlg

not sure it's PELV class 2 but, could be worth a call though.
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post #512 of 1363
3/13/08 at 1:41pm
For the wire, try here. It's priced by the foot, there is no mention of a roll, so I assume they will cut and sell whatever length you request. I'm about to place an order for several items including the wire myself.

Scroll down to the wiring diagram here. You'll have two wires on each terminal when adding an additional interface (the dotted lines for the wire in the diagram go to the next item in the daisy chain).
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post #513 of 1363
3/13/08 at 7:53pm
Now I see. Each of the four wires coming in is connected together on the one screw terminal with its corresponding wire that goes on to the next device in the chain. I had been thinking wire nuts before. Thanks for the info and the links.
--John
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post #514 of 1363
4/2/08 at 12:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer View Post

Does anybody know what kind of IR wired connection the QS takes? Since that wire is going into a high-voltage box, I assume the wire has to be rated 600V... Does it have to connect to a specific Lutron IR receiver, or can some other standard IR extender work?

Paul,

My GE QS arrives today so I'll check, but I believe you can use a standard 3.5mm mono cable to connect the GE to your IR repeater (assuming it provides 3.5mm jacks for IR emitters.) I'll take a look and try to post a picture after I get it unboxed. I'll likely try this out in a week or two as well.

-Ryan
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post #515 of 1363
4/2/08 at 1:37pm
Thanks for checking.

I'm currently torn between Insteon and GE. Insteon appears to give me much more flexibility/expandability, as well as lower entry price.

I've already got my lutron green cable run for the accessory switch by the door and I still can't decide...
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post #516 of 1363
4/3/08 at 9:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmcveigh View Post

Paul,

My GE QS arrives today so I'll check, but I believe you can use a standard 3.5mm mono cable to connect the GE to your IR repeater (assuming it provides 3.5mm jacks for IR emitters.) I'll take a look and try to post a picture after I get it unboxed. I'll likely try this out in a week or two as well.

-Ryan

Everything showed up as ordered (woo hoo!) The wiring on the back of the GE is shown on page 4 of the manual here: [url]javascript:void window.open('/CMS400/WorkArea/downloadasset.aspx?id=14315','showcontent','toolbar=0,locati on=0,directories=0,status=0,menubar=0,scrollbars=1,resizable =1,width=700,height=600')/[url]

I called Lutron and confirmed that this will take a standard 2-wire emitter. What you would do is use an emitter wire, cut off the emitter and wire the two wires to the two connectors. Polarity isn't important here according to Lutron. I intend to get my remote (a Logitech Harmony) soon and test all this before I cover my wall with fabric.

I can post back with the results of that experiment hopefully in a week or two.

-Ryan
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post #517 of 1363
4/5/08 at 2:49pm
I am considering the GE QS system mostly because of the hardwire IR feature. The Lutron literature I have found is not much help in trying to figure out how to wire this feature up. Do I just run standard CAT-5 from say a buffalo IR repeater system to the terminals on the back? Any assistance would be appreciated.
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post #518 of 1363
4/5/08 at 3:16pm
If you read the last few posts of the thread, you'll see a discussion on that topic. Bottom line: watch this space for more information.
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post #519 of 1363
4/5/08 at 4:19pm
Thanks. I did see the last post, but I am still trying to figure out if I can run the hardwire IR over standard CAT5. I cant seem to find anything on the IR system on the GE QS unit. I will keep checking back.. This is a great thread on the topic!
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post #520 of 1363
4/5/08 at 6:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nc-lion View Post

Thanks. I did see the last post, but I am still trying to figure out if I can run the hardwire IR over standard CAT5. I cant seem to find anything on the IR system on the GE QS unit. I will keep checking back.. This is a great thread on the topic!

I'm going to use an IR emitter line and cut off the emitter and just the wire it comes with. I believe you could use the cat-5, but I'm not certain with the buffalo system. I'm using a Logitech Harmony 1000 with the RF Extender kit. I'll probably run cat 5 from the box to the IR location in case I every change how I run IR. When I get this wired and tested I'll report back with details and photos. Hopefully in a week or two.

-Ryan
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post #521 of 1363
4/7/08 at 12:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by VA HDman View Post

Here is my question: do I really need to install the metal Raco box behind the GE? The GE mounts securely inside the adapter plate.

Short answer: Yes. It is required by code.

(The box may or may not have to be metal, depending on your local code. Check with your inspector or a local licensed electrician.)
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post #522 of 1363
4/7/08 at 12:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer View Post

(I posted this yesterday, but it appears to have been lost... Reposting)

Can anyone summarize the advantages of a 6 zone QS over a 3106?

In my room:
- I don't need shade control
- I don't need clock/calendar based control

Is the QS newer/better/easier-to-use or more future proof?

Go back about two pages and start reading. This was discussed.
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post #523 of 1363
4/7/08 at 12:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wadew59 View Post

Thanks, but I already understand the pros and cons of RF vs IR. My question was is there any major differences in RA-GRX-6 vs 3106 besides one being RF & the other IR. Although you didn't say so directly, you seem to be indicating there is not. Correct?

It looks like the GRX-TVI will handle switching a 1/4 hp motor @ 120v, which is one ceiling fan. I currently have 2 fans on one circuit in my ht room. If I'm correctly understanding what I could find to read about it, the only control I can achieve with a GE is to switch them off and on. And that would require putting them on separate circuits and using 2 GRX-TVI's. Then I'd still have to change fan speeds manually at the fans. Anyone know of anything better? Otherwise it looks like it'd be better to use a separate, independent fan controller for fan automation. I was simply hoping for a bit cleaner set up by having a GE control it all.

Many (most?) fan controllers are RF. If you're using a remote to control your GE, you could program it for the fans, too.

And as far as I know, there is no other difference between the RF and IR versions of the GE.
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post #524 of 1363
4/7/08 at 12:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmcveigh View Post

I called Lutron and confirmed that this will take a standard 2-wire emitter. What you would do is use an emitter wire, cut off the emitter and wire the two wires to the two connectors.

Remember that since this cable enters the box wherein high voltage lines run, it must be rated accordingly (300V or 600V jacket). If necessary you could wrap it in electrical tape.
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post #525 of 1363
4/8/08 at 5:57am
I just finished the installation of my Grafix-Eye QS, and I love it!! The Install was a breeze, the reduced size made it easy to get it and ALL 7 lines of 12-2 in one box. The connections and labels on the back were easy to work and understand. The LCD on the front really steps up the beauty and programmability of the unit. Dimming the various zones was very easy, quick, and the smaller increments allows you to really "dial" in the look and feel of the room(s). The unit is manufactured really well and i feel very confident that it will stand up to may years of use and two small children.

I have not found a SW suite I use the USB port with yet, so if anyone has see anything i would be very interested in hear what you found. I have not installed my remote seeTouch Qs units yet, but it looks very easy to program them using the LCD on the Grafik-QS.

(Pictures to Come Soon)
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post #526 of 1363
4/8/08 at 7:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMF View Post

Remember that since this cable enters the box wherein high voltage lines run, it must be rated accordingly (300V or 600V jacket). If necessary you could wrap it in electrical tape.

I remember. I'm also going to run cat 5, so I may just splice the cat5 to the IR line in my low-voltage box on the other side of the run instead of just running the IR line directly to the GE. I'm hoping I'll get my remote tomorrow locally - otherwise I'll order it and we'll find out for sure how this works soon.

-Ryan
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post #527 of 1363
4/8/08 at 7:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by page1 View Post

I have not found a SW suite I use the USB port with yet, so if anyone has see anything i would be very interested in hear what you found.

If you do get the USB working, I'd love to hear what the functionality is. Is it just designed to allow GUI programming of the scenes? That doesn't sound that useful, as it sounds like setting up the scenes from the front is pretty easy.

I'd love it if they'd drop an ethernet port in the thing. Install a little web server for programming it up, and accept tcp/ip commands. The ultimate way to get your HTPC controlling your lighting.

Although I suppose routing cat-5 ethernet cable into a j-box with power could be interesting...
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post #528 of 1363
4/9/08 at 8:55am
I just realized I bought the AU version of the GRX-3106 which is 220v-240v... Will I be able to use that in the US? Can I just use a 240v circuit and then wire everything else up normally?

Dan
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post #529 of 1363
4/11/08 at 4:54pm
I installed my Grafik Eye QS a while back. I used Cat5 for the IR connection. I insulated the cat5 cable in the junction box with heat shrink tubing rated for 600v. I just got my remote programed this afternoon and happy to report all works great with the GE-QS
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post #530 of 1363
4/14/08 at 12:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmcveigh View Post

I'm going to use an IR emitter line and cut off the emitter and just the wire it comes with. I believe you could use the cat-5, but I'm not certain with the buffalo system. I'm using a Logitech Harmony 1000 with the RF Extender kit. I'll probably run cat 5 from the box to the IR location in case I every change how I run IR. When I get this wired and tested I'll report back with details and photos. Hopefully in a week or two.

-Ryan

I'm back with a report. I used a mono audio cable with a 3.5mm jack on one end and bare wires on the other. I connected the jack to the plug on my Harmony RF extender and the two wires to the GE directly. Polarity doesn't matter (according to the Lutron support folks), so I didn't pay attention to which wire was connected to which input on the GE.

This solution enabled me to use my Harmony RF remote and for the RF extender to control the GE. It was pretty sweet. I agree with other posts here - this is a good looking unit and it certainly meets my needs. I have several photos of the wiring and all in my build thread. Here's a link to the relevant post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post13636926

-Ryan
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post #531 of 1363
4/16/08 at 3:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwoody8118 View Post

I just realized I bought the AU version of the GRX-3106 which is 220v-240v... Will I be able to use that in the US? Can I just use a 240v circuit and then wire everything else up normally?

Dan

I doubt it. I think the 220-240V is 50Hz (US is 60Hz). And you don't have a 240V line anyway. If I recall, the single-phase version that you can get out of your panel is 210-220V.

Consider it an expensive mistake.
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post #532 of 1363
4/16/08 at 3:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by page1 View Post

I have not found a SW suite I use the USB port with yet, so if anyone has see anything i would be very interested in hear what you found. I have not installed my remote seeTouch Qs units yet, but it looks very easy to program them using the LCD on the Grafik-QS.

Have you tried Lutron's Liaison software? I'd be surprised if it didn't work.


Quote:


(Pictures to Come Soon)

We're WAAIITINGG!! ...
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post #533 of 1363
4/16/08 at 3:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmcveigh View Post

I have several photos of the wiring and all in my build thread.

Nice thread.

From the pics it looks like the wallstation (and the QS?) have integral terminal strips for the PELV. The ones I've used have a plug so you can detach the low-voltage connections without fiddling with all those tiny wires. Do yours not have the plugs (connectors)?
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post #534 of 1363
4/25/08 at 9:33am
I've just read this entire thread, some really useful information.

I want to use I think, a grx-av to control my blinds that switch by contact closure. Whats not clear from the manuals is how the grx-av works on conjunction with the GE. Does the interface take a zone or is it programmed with a scene or anaother way?

Thanks

John
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post #535 of 1363
4/25/08 at 10:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMF View Post

Nice thread.

From the pics it looks like the wallstation (and the QS?) have integral terminal strips for the PELV. The ones I've used have a plug so you can detach the low-voltage connections without fiddling with all those tiny wires. Do yours not have the plugs (connectors)?

Thanks. No plugs that I recall - I'll double check when I install permanently next week.

-Ryan
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post #536 of 1363
5/5/08 at 11:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmcveigh View Post

Thanks. No plugs that I recall - I'll double check when I install permanently next week.

-Ryan

I stand corrected. There are plugs, they were just attached to the GE already. I installed my GE and wall-station this weekend and noticed that the plugs on the unit are easily removed for wiring. All is working for me, I just need to get the programming done.

-Ryan
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post #537 of 1363
5/5/08 at 12:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Spicer View Post

I've just read this entire thread, some really useful information.

I want to use I think, a grx-av to control my blinds that switch by contact closure. Whats not clear from the manuals is how the grx-av works on conjunction with the GE. Does the interface take a zone or is it programmed with a scene or anaother way?

Thanks

John

The GRX-AV has dip switches that, depending on their setting, you can have the input or OUTPUT be a dry contact closure. For example you can set scene 2 to activate a momentary or maintained dry contact output. -It does not take up a zone on the Grafik Eye. The GRX-AV is powered, and communicates with the Grafik Eye via the MUX link wires (4 wires 2-power 2-signal)
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post #538 of 1363
5/19/08 at 9:04am
I was told by an electrician supposedly experienced in Grafik Eye installations that I can run a wire from my Marantz RF extender (RX-8001) to the GE, so that I could run the GE in a location that is not in line of sight with the GE (for instance, in a closet). The electrician never called back and doesn't return phone calls, and I need to move on. Tried to ask Lutron how this is done and they acted like I was speaking Greek.
Do you know how this is done? Something about running a low voltage hardwire from the extender to the Grafik Eye?
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post #539 of 1363
5/19/08 at 10:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulEye View Post

I was told by an electrician supposedly experienced in Grafik Eye installations that I can run a wire from my Marantz RF extender (RX-8001) to the GE, so that I could run the GE in a location that is not in line of sight with the GE (for instance, in a closet). The electrician never called back and doesn't return phone calls, and I need to move on. Tried to ask Lutron how this is done and they acted like I was speaking Greek.
Do you know how this is done? Something about running a low voltage hardwire from the extender to the Grafik Eye?

How about an RF interface..
http://www.lutron.com/techInfo/Insta...es/044030a.pdf
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post #540 of 1363
5/19/08 at 10:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lisalynn View Post

How about an RF interface..
http://www.lutron.com/techInfo/Insta...es/044030a.pdf

May have also been thinking of the GRX-IRI, which can connect with an emitter from my Matantz RX-8001 and then to the Grafik Eye. I thought he said I could go full hardwire though. Perhaps he was thinking of the GRXI, thought that adds a couple hundred bucks to the project.
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