Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLRxxx8W DLP Models - Page 352

Vandu, the lamps are guaranteed a year or 10k hours and the lamp hours people have reported here seem to vary a great deal. I thought there should be some explanation for that?

Ed Weinman, are you sure your set is off? I mean it happened to me once and someone here where the screen is black but the set is on. You turn it on with the remote but you are really turning it off. Just wanted to throw that out there too. lol.

Ed Weinman, I think you changed the lamp, did you have them check the lamp door sensor? It sounds like that now?

bcvp,

The set turns off...the fan immediately stops...when I turned the set back on, I didn't get a picture. What I did see appeared to be a dark screen followed by a slightly lighter black screen (I'm not sure of the order on that, however) but this only lasted a second. The third attempt to turn it on was an immediate shut-off but with the LEDs blinking (bulb and standby) as if it were the holiday season.

Yes, the lamp was changed (along with the ballast) on September 26th (the original lamp had only 1322 hours on it).

The set ran perfectly from 9/26 (and I must add, with a better picture than it had prior to the bulb service) until about two weeks ago when the trouble reared its ugly head.

I cannot anticipate when it will happen. It will go for a day...a few days...then, all of a sudden, it will happen...once, twice...Waiting a while after an occurance and turning the set on will result in the set's going on, normally, without problem.

I do see some sort of sudden, very, very fast what appears to be flash of light going horizontally toward the bottom of the screen. However, this does not occur when the set goes off. It occurs, as a think back over the time that I've had the set (08/05) from time to time. It is so fleeting (a blink and you'd miss it) that I've not really paid any attention to it until now.

(I've just had the set on for the last half hour and, again, it works fine!)

There was a problem about three weeks after the bulb replacement where I turned on the set, heard a loud "flickering" noise along with the picture "flickering" in time with the noise. It happened twice within a three minute period and then seemed to correct itself. (It never happened prior or since the event.)

Ed Weinman, I'm not recommending it but, lol. you might open the lamp door when the set is on and working fine and see what happens and what the picture looks like. You might ask your boss to help with that. lol. I have my 5678 about a foot from the wall so I can walk in back for switching cables or service calls. It might be a pain to do but that might get you some answers, or eliminate it. I'm stumped. lol.

Cables are my worst nightmare! I have very short runs to try and avoid the mess that I had in the past. Yet, things are so cramped behind the set (the rear of which is about 5-6" from the wall) that, in order to get back there, I need to unhook several of those cables besides moving the set itself.

I don't trust myself to open the lamp door. I hope that Samsung repair has some answers re: this (and I pray that they do NOT want to remove the set for "further investigation").

I did write down the light door sensor and DMD that were mentioned above so that I could ask the technician about them.

I called the company (Video Audio Specialist, Las Vegas, NV) and they said "well thats the way we do business, if you have a problem you can contact Samsung or Warrantech". So in other words, go f- myself. Warrantech is closed right now so I'll have to call back tomorrow morning. I want to see if I can get reassigned to another local repair company who will do it right.

Bastards. All of them. I feel like I need to do something about them flaunting Samsung's procedures but I guess there is probably nothing I can do. Bastards.

Ed, I hear ya. lol. I think its worth trying when you get a chance. You'll know if you get the same issues or not. If you do, you're all set, get it replaced. If its different you just about eliminated every part. It seems to be the power supply. I don't see what the DMD has anything to do with it?

The problem I see is how the issue is very intermittent and might not show up when the tech. arrives and like you said they might want to take it so they can see if it shows up again in a couple of weeks. lol. This is so ridiculous.

I think its worth spending some time behind it instead of in front. lol.

I was going to add at some point if you're sure its not an electrical problem or something? If the power changed up and down you might get something like that. I had a sort of brown out/power on/off outage once and it did something similar to yours. That was just one time though. Geez this is annoying.

Doormat, don't give up until you've gone in circles three times. lol. Get everyone's name and extension for starters. See if they can call the service center directly, get the service center's name too but only after you went around in a circle once since you might not need to get their name.

If you call Samsung find out what the procedure is after you give them your serial number. See if they have something on their site or somewhere, where the service center can read it for themselves, since again they probably won't take your word for it. Get Samsung's name and number.

If you call Samsung and don't get a straight answer bring up the T-card, training or lack of. That will grab their attention. lol. Speak with a supervisor. Don't take any BS since you know you're right.

bcvp,

I moved the Samsung to a new location in the same room in 07/06.

Before the move, the set was plugged into a Belkin UPS (model Enterprise Series 1100VA).

The set is still plugged into the UPS but on a different location in the room.

It's odd that my problems only started after the move. Previously, the set was in its origional location from 08/05 until aprox. 07/06 with no shut-off problems.

All my equipment moved as well and I've had no problems with them (DVD player, Surround procceser, amplifier, iSCAN processer).

Yea one of the things I might do when I call samsung is bring up the issue of whether or not they're an authorized service center, and if they are why are they doing business against what samsungs rules are. Its just a bitch to have to go in circles, especially when I really dont have the time this week (I'm at a conference, its in town but I spend from 7A to 5P in classes and meetings).

For now I'm going to watch Dune in HD-DVD on my TV. Better get my HD fix now since there is a good chance I wont see it again for 2-3 weeks.

I just recently got a HL-R6178W, and have a question.

I bought the TV on Labor day at the local Tweeter. It was a floor model, and a very good deal.

I have had a couple problems with it, but Tweeter had had excellent service and has replaced the LE already, which seemed to remove the biggest problem I had (which was a odd flicker to the screen at times. Almost like the lamp was getting dim, then bright, then dim...repeatedly.)

After the service, though, I am starting to notice a lot of "Crawling Moss" or dynamic false contouring. Is this something that is normal with this HDTV that I just never noticed before, or is this something I should have the service guy come back out and take a look at, or is it something I can fix with a setting somewhere?

I am running through a HDMI cable to the HD-STB for my HD Digital Cable, but I also notice it on my XBOX 360 (Running though VGA cable), and PS2 (running via Component cables).

I notice the DFC on both SD and HD programming.

Thanks a bunch for any help.

Hey all, I have a question: Will the 5688w accept 5.1 audio through the HDMI and will that 5.1 pass through and out the digital audio out on the TV?

Not being able to pass through digital is one reason some of us have trouble with lag. The Oppo people have all but eliminated it with their firmware upgrades, but I still have trouble with a good number of discs.

Oppo will be selling a new version of their player which will have a fully featured HDMI port on it that can send out multi-channel audio...but what will the Sammy's do with it?

Thanks!

Alamias,
The DFC you are describing is not at all normal. It sounds like its time to call Tweeter again.

Spassvogel42,
The TV will only pass 2 channel stereo through its digital out. Sorry.

I have the 61" model and am almost positive the digital out will pass the 5.1 stream if there is one.
My question would be, why wouldn't it? It is just the bitstream, it doesn't care if the signal is 2 ch or 5.1 ch.

Doug,
I also have the 61. This was heavily discussed, when the HLRs first came out and the lag issue was being discussed. If I remember correctly it may be possible to get 5.1 to pass through a cable card. It will not pass through HDMI. HDMI is a two way connection. The HDMI source will see the TV as PCM (2 channel stereo) and will not send the 5.1 signal.

Thanks, I was afraid that was the answer, but also relieved as the DFC is really bad, and I would have hated to think that that was normal.

Just a quick note to Samsung owners on the fence about calibration. Eliab completed a calibration of my HLR-5688 last night and the difference is amazing. With the DNIE gone, colors and black levels adjusted the picture is stunning. If he is touring your area I highly recommend him. I see from some previous posts I am not alone.

Yes, I can verify that this is true. I have an HLR-6168 with a cable card. It does pass through 5.1 through the optical output.

jpe

Hi Everyone - I'm having a problem with both of my component inputs on the HL-R5078W and was wondering if anyone could offer any troubleshooting tips. I don't have one of the newer DVD players that allows for an HDMI output into the TV, so I want to go with the next best thing which I gather is component. I purchased one of the Y, Pb, Pr cables from Monoprice and hooked my DVD player up to the TV. I also hooked up a digital coax cable for audio to the receiver. Once I turn on the DVD player, and change the source on the TV to Component 1 and Audio on the receiver to the DVD input, I get the DVD sound out of the speakers, but no picture on the screen. I figured that the screen may be blocked so I looked in the DVD player manual (Toshiba SD-3980) and changed the video output type. When I change it, I get video in black and white on the Composite output. If I switch it back to Component, back to getting a blank black screen. I tested this out with 2 DVD players, and am at a loss as to what is causing this to happen. I've also tested 2 different cables, and called support for both Samsung and Toshiba without any resolution.

Has anyone else run into similar issues?

Did I buy the right cable?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...ormat=2&style=

Should I have bought the 5-RCA Component instead of the 3-RCA? I figured I don't need the extra 2-RCA's since I would prefer sound through a digital output into my receiver.

Please help!

Let's take this a step at a time. I assume that when you said "change the output" that you switched a cable from the DVD player to the display in order to hook up composite.

Regardless, going back to component, make sure all the cables are in their correct inputs and outputs, and make sure that they are plugged in all the way. Also make sure that you've selected the right source on the TV. Those are obvious and I'm sure you've checked that.

I'm not familiar with the DVD player but set it to interlaced output first. At first, you may need to go back to composite in order to see the menu. You should also test out the S-Video output to see what you get as well. Going back to component, try toggling the interlaced and progressive modes.

You don't indicate that there is an error message on the display screen when on Component 1. If there is a fault, you should get "Check Cable" or "Weak Signal". Since you're not, the display thinks everything is fine coming from the DVD player.

Do you have this problem with two of the same DVD players or two different players? Is there another component source you can test, such as a cable box or satellite receiver?

You might want to double check this point. Do not assume that the order of the ports (R,G-Y,B) is the same on both the dvd player and the TV. I've been burned by this before.

I'm thinking the component cables are not plugged in correctly.

As careful as I was reconnecting my dvd player that I unplugged to vacuum behind it, I managed to reverse the blue and green connectors. My player runs through my Harman Kardon receiver and then into the tv. When I tried to play a dvd, my receiver started clicking wildly and nothing appeared on the tv.

Sometimes it's the little things

One other thing. Notice on the back of the tv that Samsung labels their inputs with the 2nd input above the 1st. This applies to HDMI, component, and composite inputs. 'Component 2' is ABOVE 'Component 1,' not below it. So I'm guessing you might have it plugged into 'Component 2' which is why you're not seeing anything on 'Component 1.'

Will_Morr: By saying "change the output" I mean on the DVD player, there is a menu that lets you choose either Composite or Component. When it is on Component, I see the "Weak Signal" screen, in order to get it back to the black and white screen (Composite), I need to go through the steps of changing the video type without seeing the menu on the screen. The DVD player manual refers to this as the video being "blocked".

I have also turned on and off Progressive. I should have indicated that I am getting the "Check Cable" or "Weak Signal" messages when on Component. I have this problem with 2 different DVD players. One is the Toshiba, which is the one I desire to use.

st8kout: I'm not sure what you mean by saying the 2nd input is above the 1st? If I am to look at the manual for this model, it shows the back panel that I have:

Page 23:

http://org.downloadcenter.samsung.co...513A-00Eng.pdf

My Component 1 is left and vertical, and Component 2 is right and vertical. Y is Green, Pb is Blue, and Pr is Red. They are in that order from top to bottom on the TV, and left to right on my dvd player:

Page 12:

http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/tacpasse...-3980_om_e.pdf

I'm beginning to think there is something wrong with the TV's inputs :-\\

Ok, mine are horizontal. I took it for granted your HL-R was the same as mine.

On a side note, my Samsung does not care whether or not the signal is interlaced or progressive coming from the DVD player. In fact, I don't see a difference at all on the screen either way when I change the setting on the player.

Trying your dvd player on another tv would be a quick way of telling if the tvs at fault.

So you're saying that the HLR is set to Component 1 (or 2) and then you switch to "composite" in the DVD Setup menu to get the black & white screen? On the Component 1 HLR input? I think that means the Y component cable is active under that configuration. I assume that the only connections you have to the DVD player are the three component cables and the digital audio coax cable, correct?

I looked at the DVD player manual briefly. I suggest you try setting the player to interlaced and connecting a single cable from DVD player composite output to the HLR's composite input. Unplug all the component cables. See what you get and then try S-Video. If those two setups work, unplug the S-Video output and reconnect the component cables and try the component setup again on both of the HLR's component inputs. You should be able to toggle between the HLR's composite and component inputs to see where you are in the Tosh's Setup menu.

The first paragraph is all correct! OK, I will try your suggestion tonight, I'm beginning to lose patience with it though! Thanks very much.

Wow, after all that it was the cable! So I hooked it up with RCA video (just the yellow cable), got a picture on AV1. Then hooked it up via Component 1 and noticed that the Green Y cable ended as a Red Pr cable on the other end. Damn Monoprice! At least they were much cheaper than going with Monster! Thanks for everyone's help, sorry for the stupid posts, I should have realized it was the cable! I even did test with a 2nd Monoprice cable that seems to also be bad, it doesn't work at all! Maybe that one is reversed on both ends, who knows! I will give them the heads up so no one else has to deal with this BS.

Thanks for the replies...I use the 5688W with a CableCard, and I can get 5.1 from any channel that has it. (now that Comcast has switched to digital, I get 5.1 on some of the SD channels as well).

I was hoping that it could pass through 5.1 from the HDMI. If they'd allowed these things to pass through the DD signal nobody would have any trouble with lag at all. Ah well.

Thanks again...

SV