AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLRxxx8W DLP Models
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLRxxx8W DLP Models - Page 40

post #1171 of 12091
7/31/05 at 11:22pm
Question re: white flash across screen during movies ...

Randomly, but sometimes as often as once every 20 minutes or so, I get a very fast (fraction of a second) white flash that fills the entire screen while watching DVDs on my DVD-HD950. I'm using the HDMI cable that came with the player. The cable is rather thin and flexible ... the sheathing/insulation doesn't seem as sturdy as that of my AR optical cables for instance.

Does this sound like a simple cable problem? Tomorrow I'll dig back there and reseat both connectors, just wondering if that's a common problem with cheap HDMI cables.
Reply
Reply

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #1172 of 12091
7/31/05 at 11:25pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by calbert View Post

The black test would not pass BTB. At the 5078's default brightness of 45, I could not see the THX logo or the 7th box. At 47, I could see the THX logo. At 49 and 50, I could finally see the 7th box. That's the threshold. Higher than 50 brightens the overall field of black to shades of grey, and no amount of adjustment will bring any other boxes into view (and I certainly couldn't see a drop shadow behind the THX logo).

I just want to make sure that I understand what you are saying here ... do you mean that the 950 failed BTB at brigntness = 45, but when you increased brightness into the 47 - 50 range it passed BTB?
Reply
Reply
post #1173 of 12091
7/31/05 at 11:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by UCSB View Post

I just want to make sure that I understand what you are saying here ... do you mean that the 950 failed BTB at brigntness = 45, but when you increased brightness into the 47 - 50 range it passed BTB?

Sorry for the confusion, I may not be using the term "BTB test" appropriately. Here's a more clear explanation.

> 5078: Movie Mode
> 950: Outputting 1080i over HDMI
> 950: Brightness set at a constant 3 (default)

As you probably know the black test in the THX Optimizer has two rows across the top and bottom of the screen, divided into 10 blocks each. Each block is a different shade of black. There's also a THX logo in the middle with a drop shadow behind it. The instructions for this test indicate that some players will not be able to display the drop shadow behind the THX logo, and go on to state that in such a case, the best your player can do is to barely display the 7th block.

In the case of my above setup, these are the results of my testing:

> 5078 Brightness: 45: (logo: NO | shadow: NO | 7th box: NO)
> 5078 Brightness: 47: (logo: YES | shadow: NO | 7th box: NO)
> 5078 Brightness: 48-50: (logo: YES | shadow: NO | 7th box: YES)
> 5078 Brightness: 50+: (same as 48-50 except blacks become washed out)

At no time could I ever see the drop shadow or the last three blocks. I assumed these visual elements of the test were rendered in blacker-than-black, so that's why I claimed the 950 failed the "BTB test." My understanding of BTB may be incorrect, so certainly please correct me if I've got it wrong. Thanks for asking!
Reply
Reply
post #1174 of 12091
8/1/05 at 12:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by calbert View Post

Sorry for the confusion, I may not be using the term "BTB test" appropriately. Here's a more clear explanation.

> 5078: Movie Mode
> 950: Outputting 1080i over HDMI
> 950: Brightness set at a constant 3 (default)

As you probably know the black test in the THX Optimizer has two rows across the top and bottom of the screen, divided into 10 blocks each. Each block is a different shade of black. There's also a THX logo in the middle with a drop shadow behind it. The instructions for this test indicate that some players will not be able to display the drop shadow behind the THX logo, and go on to state that in such a case, the best your player can do is to barely display the 7th block.

In the case of my above setup, these are the results of my testing:

> 5078 Brightness: 45: (logo: NO | shadow: NO | 7th box: NO)
> 5078 Brightness: 47: (logo: YES | shadow: NO | 7th box: NO)
> 5078 Brightness: 48-50: (logo: YES | shadow: NO | 7th box: YES)
> 5078 Brightness: 50+: (same as 48-50 except blacks become washed out)

At no time could I ever see the drop shadow or the last three blocks. I assumed these visual elements of the test were rendered in blacker-than-black, so that's why I claimed the 950 failed the "BTB test." My understanding of BTB may be incorrect, so certainly please correct me if I've got it wrong. Thanks for asking!

I just popped in Empire Strikes Back into my Denon DVD-3910 and checked the
THX Optimizer - I could see all 8 boxes distinctly ( could also see all 8
distinctly on my old JVC -DILA ). I also see the THX logo off the bottom right hand
corner. This is in Movie mode with *no* adjustments.

I will also run this test when I get my Pioneer Elite 59avi which is scheduled
for delivery on Tuesday.
Reply
Reply
post #1175 of 12091
8/1/05 at 12:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonydeluce View Post

I just popped in Empire Strikes Back into my Denon DVD-3910 and checked the
THX Optimizer - I could see all 8 boxes distinctly ( could also see all 8
distinctly on my old JVC -DILA ). I also see the THX logo off the bottom right hand
corner.

This is in Movie mode with *no* adjustments.

I will also run this test when I get my Pioneer Elite 59avi which is scheduled
for delivery on Tuesday.

The above is different than what I found on the Incredibles DVD.


The test on the Incredibles has 10 boxes above the THX and 10 boxes
below as well as four boxes to the left and four boxes to the right.
All boxes are distinct using unadjusted "Movie" mode. The THX logo
and shadow are clearly visible.

Calbert was correct regarding his interpretation of passing BTB:
Check out the following web page http://www.thx.com/mod/products/dvd/brightness.html
Reply
Reply
post #1176 of 12091
8/1/05 at 1:47am
Thread Starter 
Calbert and Tony ... thanks for the careful testing and information.

Calbert ... One more question about your testing: Can you confirm that you were using an HDMI setting of RGB - Expand! It is the only HDMI setting that has the potential to send BTB.

============

From Manual:

HDMI
This setting is used when the unit is
connected by HDMI or DVI to Display
devices (TV, Projector, etc.).
- Resolution
480p : 720 x 480
720p : 1280 x 720
768p : 1024 x 768
1080i : 1920 x 1080
- Format
You can use this function to set HDMI or
DVI output's digital data RGB range.
RGB-Normal : HDMI/DVI Limited range
RGB data output.
RGB-Expand : HDMI/DVI Full range RGB
data output.
YCbCr-(4:4:4) : HDMI Limited range
YCbCr-(4:4:4) output.
YCbCr-(4:2:2) : HDMI Limited range
YCbCr-(4:2:2) output.
If you set the HDMI output resolution to
768p, you cannot use YCbCr format.
Limited range - Black/White and color level
displayed within Limited data range.
ex) When the bit depth is 8 bits
- Y : 16~235 - levels of brightness
- CbCr : 16~240 - levels of color
Ful range - Black/White and color level are
expressed within full data range.
ex) When the bit depth is 8 bits
- Y : 0~255 - levels of brightness
- CbCr : 0~255 - levels of color
Reply
Reply
post #1177 of 12091
8/1/05 at 1:52am
This question was posted a few days ago and since it wasn't addressed I thought I'd bring it back up since it affects most of us who connect with HDMI only. I have my STB connected to HDMI 1 and DVD connected to HDMI 2. I am not running any other inputs to the TV.

The question was whether or not the "TV" input can be disabled as a source so that when the DVD is on you can hit the "Source" button on the TV remote and only have to toggle between "HDMI 1" and "HDMI 2" instead of having the "TV" souce come up with its snowy blank screen (since there is no coaxial input from my cable system). I suspect that this "TV" source is there by default, but wonder if anyone has found a way to disable it.

Not a huge problem, but rather a little bit of an annoyance. At least the loud hiss you would expect from a snowy screen is apparently automatically muted so you don't blow your speakers and/or ears out when the "TV" source is selected.
Reply
Reply
post #1178 of 12091
8/1/05 at 1:54am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gargoyle007 View Post

This question was posted a few days ago and since it wasn't addressed I thought I'd bring it back up since it affects most of us who connect with HDMI only. I have my STB connected to HDMI 1 and DVD connected to HDMI 2. I am not running any other inputs to the TV.

The question was whether or not the "TV" input can be disabled as a source so that when the DVD is on you can hit the "Source" button on the TV remote and only have to toggle between "HDMI 1" and "HDMI 2" instead of having the "TV" souce come up with its snowy blank screen (since there is no coaxial input from my cable system). I suspect that this "TV" source is there by default, but wonder if anyone has found a way to disable it.

Not a huge problem, but rather a little bit of an annoyance. At least the loud hiss you would expect from a snowy screen is apparently automatically muted so you don't blow your speakers and/or ears out when the "TV" source is selected.

I don't know if TV can be disabled, but why not get a better remote and use a macro with a discrete code to go directly between the devices.
Reply
Reply
post #1179 of 12091
8/1/05 at 1:58am
I may have to consider that. Right now I have four remotes sitting on the coffee table. i have them figured out but they are driving the rest of the family crazy. Which remote do you suggest?
Reply
Reply
post #1180 of 12091
8/1/05 at 5:20am
Wondering what DVD player people have found to be the best with the new 1080p Samsungs. Samsung 950? Oppo (which model)?
Reply
Reply
post #1181 of 12091
8/1/05 at 5:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

I would really be interested in hearing how the Denon DVD 2910 does with any of the xx68 or xx78 sets that people are getting. I remember that UCSB had bad luck with a Denon 3910 and a xx78 in a Magnolia store, but it would be good to hear if others have similar results. With many people getting sets within the next few weeks, we will hopefully get enough data to get a complete picture of which DVD's do well with the Sammy 1080p sets.

I have the Denon 1910, which is very similar to the 2910 as they both use the Faroudja decoder and I have to say it is horrible with my HL-R5668W. The macro blocking made it unwatchable. It was so bad that I replaced it with the Samsung 950, which has no macro blocking and is much much better.
Reply
Reply
post #1182 of 12091
8/1/05 at 5:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by calbert View Post

Here's a quick shot of my 5078 in its new home.

Nice cabinet, I bet the cats love it too. There are plenty of perching spots. Too bad you have your electronics behind the glass doors, it would make an excellent place to put the cats while you are watching a movie.
Reply
Reply
post #1183 of 12091
8/1/05 at 5:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gargoyle007 View Post

I may have to consider that. Right now I have four remotes sitting on the coffee table. i have them figured out but they are driving the rest of the family crazy. Which remote do you suggest?

If you have the Samsung 950 DVD Player, the "Anynet" feature will help a lot.
Reply
Reply
post #1184 of 12091
8/1/05 at 5:54am
Hello everyone. I just got the 6168 this past Friday (my first HD-TV) and I must say I pretty happy with it. I got a sweet deal through my friend who works at Samsung and saves a bundle.
I watched the Superbit Black Hawk Down edition using my Sammy DVD-HD 950 and it looked and sounded great.
I spent a few hours playing God of War on the PS2 through component Video and did not have any lag issues at all. The game also looked great. Tonight I am going to try some Xbox games and report that tomorrow.

Also, I am planning to start programming my Phillips Pronto Neo remote, and was wondering is anyone has discrete codes for this TV yet. Some of the code from the HLN models work but not all. I am looking for the code for the SWAP (PIP) button. It gets annoying to have to go through the menu screen to apply the swap (also as some of you know, this is not possible if one of the two inputs is connected through a digital connection).

One last question. Can you guys list you custom picture settings?. I am trying to find the best combo and was wondering what some of you use.

Thanks
Reply
Reply
post #1185 of 12091
8/1/05 at 5:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by calbert View Post

Yes, with my 5078: There's a 4-page document called "Anynet Guide (AV Device Control & Connectivity)" that's very easily lost in the stack of registration and safety papers. Document number at bottom of last page is: AA68-03575M (ENG). Unfortunately, nowhere does it even mention a PC device. On page 2, there's a chart that lists the compatible devices:

"Two devices can be connected"
------------------------------------------
DVD Player
DVD Combo
DVDR
DVDR/Combo

"One device can be connected"
------------------------------------------
DVD Receiver
DVDR/Receiver
AV Receiver

"Two devices can be connected"
------------------------------------------
Satellite STB
Cable STB
HD STB

Thanks for posting this information. I don't think that was included with my set, but I'll look again when I get home. I'm not sure what help it will be though, b/c I don't even understand what is meant by those instructions. When it says "Two devices can be connected", do you think it means up to two of the devices of the type below the heading can be connected? Anyway, I may have confused things when I said it doesn't work when in PC mode. How Anynet works is that no matter what source you are watching (other than PC), if you press the Anynet button, it bring you to a screen that lets you pick which source you want to switch to and then when you pick that source, it switches to the input controlling that source and powers on the device - making it all very easy. For me, the Anynet button works when my source is using either HDMI input, either Component input, or the TV (antenna) input, but does NOT work if my source is using VGA. I would expect that is the way it's suppose to be. I may try to do some more research. It's a really great feature, especially since there is presently no discrete HDMI 2 code.
Reply
Reply
post #1186 of 12091
8/1/05 at 6:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccouper View Post

Frys's is not the place to test TV's. Keep looking. There is NO plasma that has the same PQ as the 5668. I looked at them all. The feed is probably at fault. Also I would at least set the picture mode to MOVIE before I made any decision. Yes it will not be as bright but the quality is much better than Standard or Dynamic. You could probably run one of those modes or bring up the color on Movie if you really want to see people glow in the dark.


Your cotention that NO plasma has a good a PQ as the 5668 seems to fly in the face of many reviews, and vitually every store saleperson I have ever discussed this with. A good plasma looks better than any of the micro-display televisions that I have seen. I own a Sony GWIV, so don't think I am a plasma freak..lol. When I go to stores, the better plasmas are clearly superior to the RPTV's all of all types. For what it is worth, Consumer Reports latest TV issue confirms that in the ratings also. Please note that I am not bashing the new Samsung. It has a great picture, and is probably the best RPTV out there at this time. In 50 inch size though, I would still contend that a $4000.00 retail plasma is superior. If you want/need a bigger TV, go for a good DLP, or LCD projection. The other isssue is whether or not the 1080P is worth the premium over the 720P models. The DLP's with the HD2+ chip have a great picture too, at a substantially lower cost.
Reply
Reply
post #1187 of 12091
8/1/05 at 6:27am
Re: video/audio sync issues -
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhixson View Post

If it isn't normal than why are the high end A/V recievers adding a delay so you can sync them with the high end TVs. If it was just Samsung the companies like Denon and Yamaha wouldn't be doing this they do this so high end systems can have the best possible viewing experience.

You are dead on with the above, and I am surprised no one else has mentioned this already.
Reply
Reply
post #1188 of 12091
8/1/05 at 6:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by calbert View Post

Question re: white flash across screen during movies ...

Randomly, but sometimes as often as once every 20 minutes or so, I get a very fast (fraction of a second) white flash that fills the entire screen while watching DVDs on my DVD-HD950. I'm using the HDMI cable that came with the player. The cable is rather thin and flexible ... the sheathing/insulation doesn't seem as sturdy as that of my AR optical cables for instance.

Does this sound like a simple cable problem? Tomorrow I'll dig back there and reseat both connectors, just wondering if that's a common problem with cheap HDMI cables.

On Samsung,s HD941 we would get a green flash just like you explained.
Reply
Reply
post #1189 of 12091
8/1/05 at 7:07am
I've spent the weekend messing with my 6168 that arrived on Friday. I watched a few DVDs and quite a few movies on DirecTV - all on my HTPC connected via VGA to the TV. Perhaps my eyes became more "critical" the more time I spent watching, but I do notice digital artifacts on many of the DVDs and all of the SD content - it's starting to bug me. The only HD content I have currently is one OTA channel. This signal strength meter, in the TV menu system under Channel, reports 5 bars. The PQ is decent but not overly impressive as I still see digital artifacts and pixelization. Is this to be expected with OTA broadcasts or should I continue questioning my purchase? :/

Has anyone got the TV Guide working? I configured mine but 2 days later, still no data.
Reply
Reply
post #1190 of 12091
8/1/05 at 7:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by calbert View Post

Question re: white flash across screen during movies ...

Randomly, but sometimes as often as once every 20 minutes or so, I get a very fast (fraction of a second) white flash that fills the entire screen while watching DVDs on my DVD-HD950. I'm using the HDMI cable that came with the player. The cable is rather thin and flexible ... the sheathing/insulation doesn't seem as sturdy as that of my AR optical cables for instance.

Does this sound like a simple cable problem? Tomorrow I'll dig back there and reseat both connectors, just wondering if that's a common problem with cheap HDMI cables.


Thanks for the tests Calbert and Tony. As far as the flashes it might be the cable. With the HD850 I was using a different cable than it came with and did not have the flash problem.

The anynet functions sound great but I don't think I'll be ordering the HD950 because of the BTB problem. It doesn't appear there is a good HDMI player right now that doesn't have a problem. Panasonic and OPPO have MB. Samsung doesn't pass BTB without crushing whites. I'm still going to return my HD850, I guess I'll stick wih my old JVC for now.Sony makes an upconvert but I've read it has quality problems.
Reply
Reply
post #1191 of 12091
8/1/05 at 7:54am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gargoyle007 View Post

This question was posted a few days ago and since it wasn't addressed I thought I'd bring it back up since it affects most of us who connect with HDMI only. I have my STB connected to HDMI 1 and DVD connected to HDMI 2. I am not running any other inputs to the TV.

The question was whether or not the "TV" input can be disabled as a source so that when the DVD is on you can hit the "Source" button on the TV remote and only have to toggle between "HDMI 1" and "HDMI 2" instead of having the "TV" souce come up with its snowy blank screen (since there is no coaxial input from my cable system). I suspect that this "TV" source is there by default, but wonder if anyone has found a way to disable it.

Not a huge problem, but rather a little bit of an annoyance. At least the loud hiss you would expect from a snowy screen is apparently automatically muted so you don't blow your speakers and/or ears out when the "TV" source is selected.


Just bought the harmony 880 which allows you to hit a button for hdmi1 and then another button for hdmi2 or any other input you want.
Reply
Reply
post #1192 of 12091
8/1/05 at 7:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by asc002 View Post

Hi guys,

I jumped on the Sammy boat and picked up a bunch of new audio/video equipment. Here's what I got:

TV - Samsung HL-R6768W
DVD - Samsung DVD-HD950
DirecTV HD Receiver with TiVo
AVR - Yamaha RX-V4600

After reading the owner's thread, I'm concerned about HDMI not passing 5.1 signal. Since my receiver has HDMI switching, I was planning to do:

DTV ---(HDMI 1)---> RX-V4600
DVD ---(HDMI 2)---> RX-V4600

and then

RX-V4600 ---(HDMI OUT)---> 6768

Will this work or will the output be HDMI 2.0? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
----------------------------------------------------

Thanks,
Steve

Why buy the expensive RX-V4600 when you have 2 HDMI inputs on th DLP? There is no real need for HDMI switching unless you are going to add a 3rd device to the DLP. I have the same setup as you, just a cheaper receiver, but equal audio quality.
Reply
Reply
post #1193 of 12091
8/1/05 at 7:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by moss312 View Post

I also need a wireless keyboard/mouse. Does anyone know of a wireless keyboard/mouse that will go through one wall and 30 ft of distance.

Someone, I am sure, has already beaten me to the punch on this, but you'll want to check out the Gyration RF keyboards. Just take a look at newegg for them.

-reiner
Reply
Reply
post #1194 of 12091
8/1/05 at 8:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonydeluce View Post

Calbert was correct regarding his interpretation of passing BTB:
Check out the following web page http://www.thx.com/mod/products/dvd/brightness.html

Thanks for the link, Tony. Figure 5 is exactly what I see with the 950. Bummer, I now feel not good enough! Although, for a sub-$200 player that upconverts, I'm not really disappointed I suppose.

UCSB: Yes, I definitely had already set the 950 to use RGB-Expand ... one of the first things I did. I'll double-check tonight, maybe somehow the setting was lost with all of my fiddling around, but I highly doubt it.
Reply
Reply
post #1195 of 12091
8/1/05 at 8:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gargoyle007 View Post

I may have to consider that. Right now I have four remotes sitting on the coffee table. i have them figured out but they are driving the rest of the family crazy. Which remote do you suggest?

Can't go wrong with the Harmony. The three year old and the wife use it flawlessly.
Reply
Reply
post #1196 of 12091
8/1/05 at 8:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkaiser View Post

Nice cabinet, I bet the cats love it too. There are plenty of perching spots. Too bad you have your electronics behind the glass doors, it would make an excellent place to put the cats while you are watching a movie.

LOL They definitely make every effort to get in there when I've got the door open ...
Reply
Reply
post #1197 of 12091
8/1/05 at 8:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMSko View Post

Thanks for posting this information. I don't think that was included with my set, but I'll look again when I get home. I'm not sure what help it will be though, b/c I don't even understand what is meant by those instructions. When it says "Two devices can be connected", do you think it means up to two of the devices of the type below the heading can be connected? Anyway, I may have confused things when I said it doesn't work when in PC mode. How Anynet works is that no matter what source you are watching (other than PC), if you press the Anynet button, it bring you to a screen that lets you pick which source you want to switch to and then when you pick that source, it switches to the input controlling that source and powers on the device - making it all very easy. For me, the Anynet button works when my source is using either HDMI input, either Component input, or the TV (antenna) input, but does NOT work if my source is using VGA. I would expect that is the way it's suppose to be. I may try to do some more research. It's a really great feature, especially since there is presently no discrete HDMI 2 code.

I know, I was a bit confused by the instructions, although I know it's hard to make sense of it out of context. Let me know tonight if you don't have the doc ... Since it's so short, I can quickly snap a few photos of it that should be readable and post them for everyone. I do like Anynet, it's a neat little feature.
Reply
Reply
post #1198 of 12091
8/1/05 at 8:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by moss312 View Post

Thanks for the tests Calbert and Tony. As far as the flashes it might be the cable. With the HD850 I was using a different cable than it came with and did not have the flash problem.

The anynet functions sound great but I don't think I'll be ordering the HD950 because of the BTB problem. It doesn't appear there is a good HDMI player right now that doesn't have a problem. Panasonic and OPPO have MB. Samsung doesn't pass BTB without crushing whites. I'm still going to return my HD850, I guess I'll stick wih my old JVC for now.Sony makes an upconvert but I've read it has quality problems.

No problem. I enjoyed learning what the 950 can and can't do. Bummer if the Oppo does indeed have MB (assume it's using Faroudja) ... would have considered it as an alternative to the 950, but I'd rather not pass BTB than have MB. I need to spend some time in the DVD forum.
Reply
Reply
post #1199 of 12091
8/1/05 at 8:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdc View Post

I do have a big lip sync problem on the TiVo. Audio is going through the amp, video through the S-Video input. I'll need to figure out a work around for this. I'm trying to check if I have a lip sync problem on the DVD, but I haven't seen one.

I was noticing big lip sync issues on the Tivo via s-video too (audio via optical to the B&K), however, after turning off the digital noise reduction feature on the samsung they seem to have gotten so slight that I don't seem to notice them anymore.
Reply
Reply
post #1200 of 12091
8/1/05 at 8:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluefrost View Post

Hey. Just got the Oppo DVD player and tried to connect it to the HDMI/DVI port on the Sammy 5678w. I get a Not Supported Mode message. It doesn't work. Has anyone had success with this DVD player and the new 1080p tvs?

Get the 6/28 firmware on there. Use the DVI button on the remote to switch modes. 1080i works wonderful with the Oppo. I've watched 3 or 4 films now on the 6168 and it's so good, I forget I'm not in the theater. My wife likes the Harry Potter films (which can be extremely dark at times), and I'm really really impressed with the Oppo/Samsung output.

Note that I was getting large lip sync delay if I used HDMI via input 1, but HDMI via input 2 seems to reduce the delay to unoticable amounts.
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Rear Projection Units

Gear mentioned in this thread:

AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLRxxx8W DLP Models