Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLRxxx8W DLP Models - Page 397

Sorry to cross-post, but I am getting desperate! My original post as follows:


Link to original thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...65890&page=682

I have a call into a service center, but as I said, I am eager to perform any replacement of parts myself. First I really need a solid determination of the root cause however. Please?

I have an HL-R5078W that has been working for several years with a single-stream (S-card) Motorola CableCard. Now my cable provider is forcing me to get a Scientific Atlanta cable card and is only offering a multi-stream (M-card) CableCard. Has anyone had success getting this model to work with a Multi-stream CableCard? When I insert the M-card I get an error 161-1. I have tried numerous cards without success and Samsung is useless for support.

Thank you all for your help over the years.

I got one of the first HL-R5078W sets that hit the East coast on July 29th, 2005. The extended warranty got me thru the first 3 years with 2 replacement light engines, both to fix the light tunnel mirror problems I had in Oct '07 and again in May '08.

Now I have no picture, the green Lamp indicator flashes for about a minute, then another minute of nothing, then the set goes off. The bulb comes on, I can see it thru the rear of the set, but nothing on the screen, and I just replaced the bulb and ballast last week hoping it would solve the problem, and I checked the color wheel which has no damage and it does spin up. I don't want to spend $750 for a light engine that may only last one year.

I have been on this AVS forum thread since before these 1080's came out, and I truly appreciate everyone's advice over the years. You all have gotten me thru problems I otherwise couldn't solve, so thank you all for that.

Any last words of advice? I'll probably write to Samsung and seek some kind of trade in since this was the only $3800 TV I was going to purchase for 10 years or so. My wife won't have another Samsung in the house unless they can make some kind of deal to make her happy. We'll see. If they offer us a nice 44 inch something it would be nice in the bedroom.

In the mean time, this weekend looks like a good time to get a 50" plasma for under $1500, less than the cost of 2 light engines. I'm checking other parts of this AVS forum for the latest advice on plasma's.

I'll let you all know if I have any response from Samsung.

Cheers,
John G. (with the '71 red VW Bus)

Well I'm sad. My HL-R5688W finally is acting up. I bought this TV after salivating over it for months before it's release July 2005. 3 nights ago as I'm playing my Xbox after a few hours it shutdown and gave me a flashing what looked like a Fan/ Thermometer, and then a flashing light bulb symbol in the little blue circle. My first and still main thought is it's a heat condition as the brightness is perfect and sharp as the day i got it (In my opinion though). On that note for the first time I took the back off of the TV and removed the bulb, and also the fan. The fan was a little caked in dust, but seemed to still spin unencumbered so i cleaned it out. Now i get a bout 45 minutes before it shows the same symptoms as described above.

My question: Does anyone have any experience with heat issues with this tv?

if so what was the remediation for this? just a little background on me, I'm a IT professional with 15+ year of experience. I don't mind cracking the TV open, where i draw the line is having to re-soldering anything..

You guys are a wealth of information and I can't wait to hear from you all!

Thanks!

I have the same tv. If you saw the little bulb symbol it means you need a new bulb. I haven't changed mine yet, but that's what the manual says you need when that symbol shows on the front.

For the ventilation issue, I have been vacuuming all the rear vents, the one in front of the bulb on the back as well as the one ones on the bottom of the screen on the back every few months since I got the tv in 10/05. That seems to help a lot in venting it.

Post back on your solution.

I have a bulb on order, but listen to this and let me know if this sounds consistent still with the bulb being bad.

one day i get an hours worth of viewing, and then 3 days go by and i have no issue.

I just figured if it was the bulb it'd be dead or dying more regularly. I'm also concerned with putting a new bulb in and it being a heat condition that will drastically negatively effect the life span of the new bulb.


Thanks again for the sounding board, and I'll be happy to post my results.

If you are saying that the TV shuts down, then it might be the switch on the bulb housing. You can do what I did and use a rubber band to make sure it stays down. No more problem. Others have had the same problem. Search the thread and you will see it.

I have the same TV and had exactly the same issue. I bought a new bulb and swapped out the old one. Have not had any problems since replacing the bulb.

darc87

PS. Got mine around July also, did you get the TVAuthority deal?

I'm reposting factorz's report about having David Abrams (dave@avical.com) calibrate his Samsung HL-R4266W DLP here so that other owner's will have a chance to read it. It is also added to the RPTV (Post#1) list that's linked at the bottom of my post.

I have a 6768w. There is excessive fan noise and no video or audio. It started with all 3 leds flashing. Samsung tech said to change bulb. Done. The fan still is noisy and the unit cycles a few times with the lamp led flashing then quits with all leds flashing. Samsung now say to call a service tech. Live in the country with no service near. Any thoughts. Thanks

I also have a 6768w. Sorry, but the only thing I can help with is the front panel LED indicator codes. The 3 flashing lights means the bulb is "defective" and the flashing Lamp LED means "The picture will automatically appear in about 15 seconds."

Sounds like it's trying a start-up sequence and tripping off on a fault condition. Does the color wheel spin up to speed? Try listening for the motor (the usual start-up sounds). I can't help much more here.

Its fixed.. Replaced the color wheel. Not only did it not spin up. It had exploded inside the housing. Thanks

Hey all. I'm in North Texas and have been looking for an HL-R5688W for quite a while now. There seems to be a nice unit in Oregon, but that doesn't exactly help me. I would appreciate any suggestions where you think I might find one of these.

I live in N. Texas and have one but I wonder why you want to buy an almost 4 year old dlp tv. Mine is still working fine and they were/are an original, interesting looking tv with an excellent pic, but Samsung has stopped making dlps and in time parts will be hard to find, etc. If you are really interested in getting one, post back as the one I have is still in excellent condition.

I have an HL-R5688W pedestal set. Recently it has been loosing the right half of the picture. The screen goes completely blank on the right half. It is very intermitent, somedays happening every half hour and other days not at all. I have caught the drop-out while I have had the service menu active. All the self tests check out as valid and I can do the vertical and horizontal swaps and see the proper changes in the picture. The only really odd item was the test patterns. Most showed the left half, but the final four (white, blue, red and green) had light over the full screen. I assume this is a DMD board problem. I have opened the TV and vacuumed out the dust and played with the connectors and the problem persists. I would buy a replacement DMD but at over $800 is doesn't seem worth the price. I can get a nice 55" LCD for under $2000 and be certain the problem is fixed.

I'd be interested in any advice from the community.

Your guess is correct. Half blank screen is the result of the dmd board failing. Some people have replaced the part by themselves and have a thread going on this forum. I think, unfortunately, our tv's being an early model of their type, had both the dmd board and the dlp chip on the same board, later they divided them and then the cost of replacement was cut in half (at least that's what I read), but on our tv you have to buy the whole board assembly. But anyway, I think your are correct in your diagnosis of the problem.

Again, it's just a memory, but I think some people were successful in getting the part from Samsung under some unwritten extended warranty. They complained long enuf that Samsung agreed to provide the part if they did the labor, themselves or thru a service tech. So calling executive customer service and seeing what they might do can't hurt. They have nothing to do with the part anymore, so maybe they will be generous.

Does anyone know what the current resale value of an HL-R5688W is? I'm moving (Chicago) and would like to sell the 56 and matching stand that I have.

Hi All. Can't beleive this thread is still going.

I have an HLR-5078 and the only thing that have been replaced are the Engine because of the left hand screen had a large dark line and I also had a OEM bulb replaced 8 months ago.

SYMTOMS
Well recently I have had the TV go totally blank with a black screen and all 3 lights flash. I do not hear any unusual noises. I usually turn the set off for a second and start back up and everything is OK.

This has happened now 4 times over the past 2 weeks at randon times. The TV is usually been running for a few hours so everything is warm.

I have installed another bulb to try an eliminate it from the problem.
The interior is clean and no dust, fans are running and the ballast looks ok.

Does anyone know what may be going?
Thanks

IggyAZ

I have the model HL-R6168W, purchased it in May of 2006 and it's our main tv in the house so it gets a fair amount of use. Have had the light bulb replaced, and just last week had a service tech out to replace the cooling fan in the unit as it was "purring". This has all been done under the extended service contract for the tv.

Now I notice there are two black spots on the screen, both approx. 1.5"-2" in diameter. One is just about in the center of the screen, the other is in the lower left. I called the GE Warranty center and they are trying to tell me that this only happens from "impact damage" and that it isn't covered under warranty.

This tv doesn't move, it is still in the same position as it was when they left last week after replacing the fan. Any thoughts on what could have caused this issue??

Funny you should bring this up at this time. My 5078 is doing the same thing and then failed hard yesterday. Tech came out and saw it same day I called it in (pretty cool). I had an older bulb that I know works and the tech replaced the new bulb I got back in Feb with a new LE. With the old bulb I've now had it on for 16 hours and no failures. Go figure.

That said, I don't trust the unit and the warranty runs out in Aug. Tech doesn't know whats wrong so he is "shotgunning" the problem. We're gonna put in a new LE and new Digital Board. This will basically give me a brand new set with one brand new bulb, a bulb with 1000hrs on it and a older bulb with 3000 hrs. Plus the tech gave me a light tunnel he had ordered but didn't use. So, keeping my finger crossed, maybe I'll get nother 3 years out of the set.

I know, doesn't help with what may be going on, but in my case I don't care. If I had to guess though, my thought would be that it's the ballast. Maybe some heat sensitivity. My older bulb is not nearly as bright and perhaps runs a bit cooler. Also, just opening it up may have freed up a smidgen of air flow due to dust removal. Good luck to you. And remember, you don't ave to diagnose the problem, let the tech do it and if she can't explain, shotgun it. It's why you bought an extended warranty!

Thanks James. I guess it will be a waiting game on our sets to see if the bulbs the problem or ?

I have a 5 year warentee which expires Oct 2010 so I'm hoping something pops soon.
I'm now looking for a replacement bulb OEM bulb (Phillips).
Seems they are running about $120 for a BP96-01073A (P120W)
Anyone have a good source for the Phillips bulb under $120?

SYMPTOMS
HLR-5078W Shuts down and all 3 lights blink. Bulb has been replaced and it still does it.
Happens every few weeks now happening every few days.

UPDATE
The TV shuts down again even with the new bulb installed.
Called it in for service and they will come out July 10th.
I will let you know what they decide.
I suspect they will take it to the shop and try to duplicate the problem because I told them if I turn it off and back on it works ok.
They want me to leave it blinking and plugged in until they arrive.

Oh well

UPDATE (Friday July 10, 2009)
Service tech came out and looked my set over and didn't see anything unusual other than the 3 lights flashing. Turned the set off and back on and everything is ok.

He took the set to the shop to see if he can do some board swapping.
Hopefully this doesn't become a nightmare.



UPDATE (Wednesday July 15, 2009)
Well the latest is the light engine assemble is bad and replace the whole assembly.
Has to be ordered so I'm still out another week.

I'm so glad I bought the 5 year warentee.

I'm reposting this owner's calibration report here so that other owner's will have a better chance to read it.

I have an HLR-5078W set and have the following questions about the bulb.
Hopefully you can give me your experienced answers.
Thank you

1. Is the OEM Phillips bolb really better than an OSRAM bulb?

2. Who does the bulbs have two wattages? My BP96-1073A(P) has a 100 and 120Watt rating. Does the set change wattages onthe fly or?

3. The Phillips bulb is rated for 6,000 hours of use. My first was still going strong at 8,500 hrs and relaaced it just becasue and my 2nd has been in for 4,500 and still good.
How long has your bulbs lasted. Just curious.

4. Has anyone found these expensive bulbs at a reasonable price some where? $109 is the best I can find for a Phillips (bulb only)

There seems to be a lot of "my set broke" posts running now. Are we at the end of the useful service life of this model?

A few minutes ago, my HL-R6768W purchased in Dec 2005, just imploded. Loud crash with sounds of shattered plastic pieces inside the box. As soon as the lamp cools down, I'll pull off the cover and confirm a busted color wheel...

My spouse says the display briefly went to black& white just before the crash. Probably the vestiges of the color wheel as it was breaking up.

Update: 4 weeks back-order? You gotta be kidding.
Part Number: BP96-01103A
Division: TV
Description: COLOR WHEEL / FOR CHASSIS (L6)
Stock Availability: Item is nation-wide back order. We may have it within 4 weeks.
Price: $122.14

http://www.samsungparts.com/part_det...id=BP96-01103A

Anyone have a better source (reliable)?

Update: Color wheel replacement is at this post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post14486043, but use the link to go to this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1050735 I still need to confirm that it's shattered, but this is a good thread on how to get to it.

Here is a generic replacement video of the color wheel
http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/samsung/bp96-01579a.php



Color Wheel $79.99. Make sure it is the right one.
http://www.discount-merchant.com/Sea...el&Click=11380


Try these
http://www.encompassparts.com/products/?BP96-01103A

http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsun...aspx?s=froogle


http://bestbuy.partsearch.com/Part/S...1103A/New.aspx

http://jr.partsearch.com/Part/Samsun...1103A/New.aspx

As of today, the tech that has been working on my HLR-5087 is gonna put in "junk out" order so I'll be in the new TV market. It first went into it's final death spiral three weeks ago when it would power down and stay down (had been and itermmittent problem but final gave up the ghost). Replaced ballast and power supply and all was good for 2 days.

Then the picture started breaking up. Tech replaced the digital board (I know, it's in the LE and is a problem with the DMD). Worked for a short while then started acting up again. The tech doesn't want to bother with it again and I'm all for that. Since Aug of 05 I've had the LE replaced three times and the Digitial board replaced twice, power suply once, bulb twice and ballast once.

Sooo.... I learned some lessons and I am actually glad I had the foresight to get the extended warranty. It runs out this August and the TV finally quit this month. Perfect timing. I don't normally buy extended warranties but with this TV being new technology at the time and having all those moving parts, it made sense and boy, did it pay off.

I'm glad I bought the set. When it did work, which was most of the time, it delivered a great picture! I got five years (minus a few months due to repairs) of service from the set and the support for me was excellent. I'd do it all again. But things have changed and I don't think I'll buy DLP again. Haven't done any shopping yet but from what I've read I've put a 55" LED-LCD from Samsung on my short list. It's gonna be fun doing the homework and shopping.

Hopefully the junk out order will take and I'll get a decent amount for the current set. Goodbye to this thread and I look forward to joining the owners thread of whatever TV I decide to buy.

55" LED-LCD. Fantastic choice. People have posted pics of the quality on that tv and it looks outstanding. Post back to let us know how you like it if you do decide to purchase it. We all will be looking for new tv's within a year at most, so former DLP owner's reviews of the newest LCD would be great to hear.

Will do! Also, just found out Samsung is coming out with a 9000 model this summer or fall that will have local led dimming instead of the edge lighting in the current 8000 model. Sooo.... Perhaps I'll buy 45 inch as a bridge tv until the 9000s come out, upscale to 55 inches and move the 45 inch into my bedroom to replace an older CRT. 5,000,000:1 (not a typo) constrast ratio. Fun, fun, fun.....

Thanks! Shattered color wheel confirmed. I used the guide in my original post, it was very accurate and easy to follow. I used partstore.com as I get free shipping and they have a 30 Day return policy. In stock.

The only problem might be is that I think I may have moved what looks like a focus adjustment ring on the light output to the screen. It's right after the light tunnel. Did it by accident. Hope it's still in focus. I reset it back as best I could.