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Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLRxxx8W DLP Models - Page 255

post #7621 of 12092
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjr View Post

Has anyone tried sending a 1080p siganl to the VGA from a scaler? I have all of the equipment, but do not have any idea which settings I would need to change and if it would work.

I tried it with the Iscan HD+ and couldn't get it to work and I tried it the other day with the VP30 and didn't get it to worlk. I don't know what specific settings need to be changed to make it work. I just know 1080P from the PC looks great with WMV-HD clips.
post #7622 of 12092
Quote:


That makes it sound like a power problem..like your overloading the circuit. When the sub hits a powerful low note it draws more power from the circuit and then that's when you have your problem.

They are already on different circuits. The sub is on a 20 amp dedicated and the HLR is just on a 15 amp house circuit and on a Monster HTS 2500.
I posted pics earlier in this thread of what the pic looked like but HERE they are again.
post #7623 of 12092
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut4772 View Post

They are already on different circuits. The sub is on a 20 amp dedicated and the HLR is just on a 15 amp house circuit and on a Monster HTS 2500.
I posted pics earlier in this thread of what the pic looked like but HERE they are again.


I guess two suggestions, if they haven't already been posted.

1. Have you tried the TV with the Sub turned off?

2. If it clears it up then, since the sub is non-directional, try placing it farther away from the TV.

3. Turn the damn thing down! If it is shaking the house, I can only imagine what it is doing to the mirrors. I don't think that the actuators on the DMD are that strong. If you must have that jiggle, get some butt kickers under your chairs and sofa.
post #7624 of 12092
i can get either model 5678w or 5668w ... Which one is better in your opinions? i know mostly its only a bezel difference but the 78w is a little more expensive. I have read so many issues with lag and video games my head is spinning some say not noticeable some say big problem. I plan on bringing a ps2 to tweeter today and testing it out in person before i splash down 4000 .... Thanks for all the inof..
post #7625 of 12092
Well I broke down and purchased a HL-R6768W.
Everything is fantastic except for the non-HD channels, they aren't clear at all.
I'm using a HDMI cable and a Comcast HD DVR box.

Does anyone have any idea as to what I can adjust to make to picture watchable?
Thanks
post #7626 of 12092
Quote:
Originally Posted by radio1man View Post

Well I broke down and purchased a HL-R6768W.
Everything is fantastic except for the non-HD channels, they aren't clear at all.
I'm using a HDMI cable and a Comcast HD DVR box.

Does anyone have any idea as to what I can adjust to make to picture watchable?
Thanks

Analog is always hit or miss. Comcast is slowly rolling out all digital to their customer, so a solution is around the corner. In the meantime, try to get the Phase III 6412. IME, it offers better PQ on analog than the older box.
post #7627 of 12092
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

Some while ago there were problems that arose if one turned off the Comcast stb, so I (and many others, I think) started leaving it 'on' all the time. I've actually forgotten what the 'problems' were, but I wonder if they still exist. I.e., is it OK now to turn the 6412 'off' when not in use?

I leave mine on because of two problems - when I turned everything on (with a Harmony 'activity' macro) the 6412 would be muted, and the box would turn itself off sometimes when it reached the end of a show it was recording.
post #7628 of 12092
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobm View Post

Analog is always hit or miss. Comcast is slowly rolling out all digital to their customer, so a solution is around the corner. In the meantime, try to get the Phase III 6412. IME, it offers better PQ on analog than the older box.

If you do have a Phase III STB I have found that setting the 4:3 Override to 480i seems to me to give the best picture. This lets the Samsung do the deinterlacing and scaling rather than the STB. Try the different settings for 4:3 Override and see what you like best.
post #7629 of 12092
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by radio1man View Post

Well I broke down and purchased a HL-R6768W.
Everything is fantastic except for the non-HD channels, they aren't clear at all.
I'm using a HDMI cable and a Comcast HD DVR box.

Does anyone have any idea as to what I can adjust to make to picture watchable?
Thanks

With the DVR ON and the TV ON, press the POWER button on the DVR box (not remote), then press the MENU button on the DVR box (not remote) quickly. This will take you to your setup screen. Try various options for 480i override (480i, 480p, etc.) and see which on looks best on your favorite channel.

It there is a digital channel that you can use instead of an analog channel, switch to digital.

Finally, SD was designed to be viewed from 3x the TV's diagonal ... so it will look much clearer if you back-up a little while watching it. With a 67" set ... you may need to position yourself in your backyard.
post #7630 of 12092
Hello All. Long time lurker here who has been doing much reading and learning from all of you. For this I say THANKS!

OK, so I bought the HLR6168W. It's fabulous and I love it. It does however have a quirky challenge that I have not yet seen discussed here. My subwoofer makes the top bezel "BUZZ" when it hits more significant sound effects. It's really pretty loud too! Kind of annoying. I can press the top/center of the bezel with my hand and make it stop.

Anybody else pondering this?
post #7631 of 12092
Quote:
Originally Posted by Negativecreep0 View Post

i can get either model 5678w or 5668w ... Which one is better in your opinions? i know mostly its only a bezel difference but the 78w is a little more expensive. I have read so many issues with lag and video games my head is spinning some say not noticeable some say big problem. I plan on bringing a ps2 to tweeter today and testing it out in person before i splash down 4000 .... Thanks for all the inof..

When I was trying to decide in Aug, I was advised by both TVA and Samsung Customer service that the electronics of both sets were exactly the same. The only differences were the bezel design. Since the '68 was cheaper and I was worried about reflections, I decided to go with the 5668. I am glad I did since bezel reflections show up as a complaint in a variety of forums. I must admit, with the set off, the '78 series does look classier, IMHO.
post #7632 of 12092
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strummer View Post

Hello All. Long time lurker here who has been doing much reading and learning from all of you. For this I say THANKS!

OK, so I bought the HLR6168W. It's fabulous and I love it. It does however have a quirky challenge that I have not yet seen discussed here. My subwoofer makes the top bezel "BUZZ" when it hits more significant sound effects. It's really pretty loud too! Kind of annoying. I can press the top/center of the bezel with my hand and make it stop.

Anybody else pondering this?

Can you shove some folded paper under the lip to stop the vibration? It may just be the bezel vibrating against the screen because of a small gap etc.
post #7633 of 12092
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccouper View Post

Can you shove some folded paper under the lip to stop the vibration? It may just be the bezel vibrating against the screen because of a small gap etc.

I'll be taking a hard look at it over the weekend, although I'm very weary about messing with my new "baby" That's a pretty non-intrusive solution though that might work. I'll also be looking for loose screws accross the top of the set.

Thanks!
post #7634 of 12092
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strummer View Post

I'll be taking a hard look at it over the weekend, although I'm very weary about messing with my new "baby" That's a pretty non-intrusive solution though that might work. I'll also be looking for loose screws accross the top of the set.

Thanks!

Be careful, several owners have reported that the screen is poorly attached to the top bezel in the general area of your problem. It has the ability to be pushed in and will exhibit some give.
post #7635 of 12092
Quote:
Originally Posted by radio1man View Post

Well I broke down and purchased a HL-R6768W.
Everything is fantastic except for the non-HD channels, they aren't clear at all.
I'm using a HDMI cable and a Comcast HD DVR box.

Does anyone have any idea as to what I can adjust to make to picture watchable?
Thanks

My 6768 looked great on all the channels, but I decided to have it proffesionally calibrated anyway. I was afraid I was just wasting my money until they showed up. It was a two guy team that spent three hours with the TV. When they left I was blown away with how good it looked.....you may want to consider that. Just make sure they are certified....
post #7636 of 12092
I'm far behind many of you, but I finally turned off DNIe using Eliab's instructions (reposted on post #7606 of this thread).

I am completely impressed with the results of this procedure. Two settings in particular have a significant effect upon picture quality: SNI_PROC_BWS, as has been mentioned by several others, and SNI_PROC_DEP.

The BWS setting has a huge effect upon shadow detail. When on, it really crushes lower shadow detail into black, resulting in an overprocessed and unnecessarily dark picture. I was shocked to see how much shadow detail was revealed when I toggled it OFF -- doing so put a big smile on my face. The BWS setting was definitely the culprit behind my nagging doubts about crushed blacks on my 5078.

The DEP setting, when ON, applies heavy edge enhancement. For those of you familiar with Adobe PhotoShop, it's analagous to the effects of using Unsharp Masking to increase edge contrast in a photo -- if you have a light grey circle on a dark grey background, the light grey pixels at the very outer edge of the circle are made lighter, and the dark grey pixels just outside of the circle are made darker. When properly used, the technique can increased the perceived sharpness of a soft image, since the edges appear to be better defined -- but when improperly used, it can easily create strong "halos" or double-borders that can be quite distracting.

Some here have liked the effects of the DEP setting, others have not. I'm a purist when it comes to things like this, so given the choice I'll turn choose the unaltered image. The benefits of having it OFF, for me at least, became more obvious when looking at contrast-heavy edges during movement, as opposed to a still image. To my eye, a good HD signal looks a hell of a lot smoother and more natural.

I'm still debating where I want to leave the GAMMA setting. I currently have it at 0, and chose that setting because at 2, colors appeared to have a slight amount of unnatural oversaturation. This was most noticeable in the greens on my set, but that bias might just be due to inaccurate color decoding or white balance that would need professional calibration to correct.

Just thought I'd share ...
post #7637 of 12092
Hello All

Santa came early. I just received by Samsung HLR5078W on Wednesday. So far it's pretty damn good. The quality of the pic without HD is amazing. Comcast is coming on Tues so I have to wait til then. Oh well I've waited this long....

Any tips for a new bee?

I have a Marantz SR 7500, Samsung DVD Player, Powered Subwoofer, Cambridge Sound works Speakers (need to upgrade).

Louie
post #7638 of 12092
Quote:
Originally Posted by bcvp View Post

Mgreen200, you might start with Tuneup on Sat. mornings on INHD, if you have that channel. It didn't make a difference for me but I did made a couple of minor adjustments just for fun.

Thanks for that info BVCP - I have been looking for this program for a while without luck! Did you adjust anything in the SM with this "tune up" program or just user menus?
post #7639 of 12092
I've been experiementing w/ an Xbox 360 and VGA to try to get a good input response and picture quality. Here are some observations. Please feel free to correct and/or provide more details where I am missing some:

* VGA definately provides better input response over Component.

* DNIe is disabled on VGA. Going into the Service Menu the DNIe settings are at default. Toggling any of them has no effect on the image.

* The GAMMA for VGA is set to 4 - VIDEO as default. I found that setting it to 0 or 1 provides a richer picture and allows the contrast and brightness settings to be more reasonable, rather than the 90/10.

* The image is much softer than component, most likely due to the lack of edge enhancement. Is there a way to tighten this up?

* You can see the "higher" black level by switching between component and VGA with the sources off. The VGA screen is much brighter from the start. Is there a way to adjust this?

* I believe playing Xbox 360 games (such as Quake IV) over component actually has a much worse frame rate than say a LCD projector (which is my other display). I guess this makes sense, if the unit takes a certain amount of time to process the image (enough to be noticable), then it will eventually have to drop some frames to keep up.

I'm going to try to pick up a Toshiba 56MX195 so I can compare then side by side at home.
post #7640 of 12092
I have had the 5078W for almost 3 months now and after coupling it with the Oppo Digital DVD player (1111 firmware) through the DVI port Idecided to go through with the DVE calibration DVD.
Everything is fine in the calibration process, but I have a few questions I am hoping more experienced users may answer:
1. when I am setting up the contrast setting using PLUGE with grey scale pattern, I keep increasing the contrast and dont see any blooming (maybe I am not supposed to see). I also dont see any distortion in the size and shape of the grey scale log bars. Where should I stop increasing?
2. when I look through the green filter at the SMPTE color bars I am supposed to make sure that the intensity of cyan and yellow bars the same. I get close but never perfect with the single color slider available in the picture menu. Further more the rightmost 3 bars that are supposed to look like black come brighter/more saturated, giving me the impression that "green is leaking through those channels". Any advice?
3. when I play with the individual color sliders in the My Color menu I dont see any significant impact to the overall color quality? What is this supposed to be used for?
4. also on the individual color settings, the tv brings up a sample before/after image that covers the entire screen. But this seems counter intuitive since I dont see the source image (DVD calibration pattern for example). Is there a way to disable this image? Can we petition to Samsung to change this with a firmware update?
Thanks for patiently reading my questions. Any or all answers are appreciated.
--selim
post #7641 of 12092
Well im a little upset. I went down to tweeter to test out my 6178W tv before I bought it for video game lag. I had with me a ps2 and componenet cables. Brought a couple diff games. First game i tested was God Of War, It was in progressive scan mode, with 16:9 set. The game had no lag whatsoever perfect. I was happy and thought some of you lag guys' complaints were crazy. Next i decided to try a 480p native game Marvel vs Capcom 2. Well here is where i saw horrendous lag. The game was so laggy it made it unplayable. That turned me off to the game immediately. After two months of deciding what to get i now have to start from scratch and read some more owner threads AHHHHHhhhh. Anyways im seriously considering a Sony 60XBR1. As the pic was just as good as the samsung and there was no lag whatsoever with marvel vs capcom 2 through component. My question to you owners is if I did get the samsung and used vga ps2 connector to the vga port on the SAmmy. Would this eliminate the lag altogether?


thanks
post #7642 of 12092
I see several open box Samsungs (HLR6768) adverstised for a several less then best prices Ive found. WIth that savings I could get an extra warranty too.

Are there issues to be worried about with open box units?.

Im told they get returned for several reasons, e.g., rainbows effect, size etc. And the store checks them out when them come back they say.

Seems like a good way to go especially since they will have the full factory warranty still.

Any opinions?
post #7643 of 12092
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjsmithin View Post

I see several open box Samsungs (HLR6768) adverstised for a several less then best prices Ive found. WIth that savings I could get an extra warranty too.

Are there issues to be worried about with open box units?.

Im told they get returned for several reasons, e.g., rainbows effect, size etc. And the store checks them out when them come back they say.

Seems like a good way to go especially since they will have the full factory warranty still.

Any opinions?

The "store checkout" amounts to them plugging it into the wall and seeing if it has a picture. That's about it.

That being said, the open box thing comes down to savings vs. what you are willing to endure. If it looks good in the store, it's probably just a return for the size issue and sometimes just buyer remorse. I have a 5688 that is open box and was DOA when I brought it home. Samsung stood behind the warranty without question and I saved almost $4k off the MSRP. In this case, a no brainer. I checked it to see that it has no signs of damage or abuse, but other than that I simply said "I'll take it".

Also having a calibrated set(an HL-R6168) and this uncalibrated HL-R5688 in the same house makes it soooo easy to see the PQ benefits of having a calibration done. I can literally compare side-by-side. IMO, it's silly to spend this kind of money and not get it calibrated. You're missing out otherwise. I didn't fully understand this until I had both to compare.
post #7644 of 12092
I got a 71 inch Sammy 1080p display for Christmas and would like to turn off the DNIe processing. I have read the instructions posted earlier on this thread. I have one dumb question. I have not tried to enter the service menu yet for fear of not being able to figure out how to get out of it. I do not see any posts that tell you how that is done. If someone would share that information then I will give turning of the DNIe a shot. Thanks in advance for your help.
post #7645 of 12092
Quote:
Originally Posted by guapote View Post

I got a 71 inch Sammy 1080p display for Christmas and would like to turn off the DNIe processing. I have read the instructions posted earlier on this thread. I have one dumb question. I have not tried to enter the service menu yet for fear of not being able to figure out how to get out of it. I do not see any posts that tell you how that is done. If someone would share that information then I will give turning of the DNIe a shot. Thanks in advance for your help.

After entering the Service Menu and making the necessary changes, you can turn off the TV.. Wait a bit, then turn it back on.

I think you could also program some codes into a remote to do this, but I haven't tried this yet.
post #7646 of 12092
Am I the only one who thinks Dnie really enhances the overall 3d effect and makes DVD's look better??

Well, each person has their own opinions. I'm glad I have the option on my set to turn Dnie on and off without any trouble. I've never had a reason to turn it off yet.

When watching HD Football games on CBS, I do notice the wide angles of the football field are not entirely accurate and curved. Is this due to the TV or the actual HD camera's used in the game?? I have an HLR5087W.
post #7647 of 12092
Quote:
Originally Posted by Supermans View Post

Am I the only one who thinks Dnie really enhances the overall 3d effect and makes DVD's look better??

Yes!
post #7648 of 12092
Quote:
Originally Posted by Supermans View Post

When watching HD Football games on CBS, I do notice the wide angles of the football field are not entirely accurate and curved. Is this due to the TV or the actual HD camera's used in the game?? I have an HLR5087W.

Wide angle lenses can distort the image. A bending of the image at the sides is usual. Called barrel distortion. The stadium beauty shot will use a wide angle lens.
post #7649 of 12092
Quote:
Originally Posted by Supermans View Post

Am I the only one who thinks Dnie really enhances the overall 3d effect and makes DVD's look better??

Probably not, but think about this. DNIe (and sharpness/edge enhancement in general) sharpen soft edges. For example, something that is supposed to be out of focus. It sharpens the edges, making it look more in focus.

So, a shot with an in focus foreground and out of focus background will definitely look more "3D" as the background will be sharpened up and made to look more in focus. Of course that is not at all what was intended, cinematographers and directors choose lenses, camera angles, etc. with what should be in and out of focus in mind. You are taking that control away somewhat and saying you want everything to look in focus.

If you want to see the unaltered image as closely as possible, turn off DNIe. If you want to impose your own artistic preferences, leave it on. It is your right, your choice. No right or wrong, perhaps, but definitely accurate vs. inaccurate.
post #7650 of 12092
I've found HD programming to vary widely in PQ. Some programs need more enhancement, some less. It's very difficult to make a global adjustment to optimize all programs. Some compromises will have to be made.

Right now my detail circuit is off and Discovery looks great. However, a film I watched last night looked soft, IMHO. It would be nice to have a range rather than just on or off.

The enhancement circuit in the Samsung is a bit harsh and seems to be more of a peaking circuit rather than an enhancer circuit, IMHO. The picture looks more natural with it off.
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