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>>> The Official Sony Grand Wega V (A10 series) Thread <<< - Page 66

post #1951 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyv View Post

Congratulations on having a successful repair. (no dead pixals huh?)

Thanks, and no dead pixels. Got Comcast HD set up today and it looks awesome. Just need to get a stand now, I've looked at thousands online and in stores and haven't seen anything within my budget that I liked. I have a seperate audio tower so I don't want a stand that is a lot deeper than the TV - I don't see the point of having a stand 20" deep when the TV is only 14" deep.
post #1952 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenmh View Post

If that's the case, then I'd agree with you. A guarantee is a guarantee. But I've never heard of that policy (doesn't mean that it doesn't exist) and the poster didn't mention it. It it was shipped from a warehouse rather than the local store, then such a policy wouldn't apply.

Anyway, I should mention I didn't post just to hijack the thread for a standard of care debate. I've been following for several weeks, and ordered a 50A10 from Vann's on Friday. Looks like it will arrive Monday along with a Samsung HD950, and new main and center speakers this week. Can't wait to get it hooked up... DVD via HDMI, PC via VGA, XBOX and PS2 via component, and DirecTiVo via S-video. This is my first RPTV... currently have a 32" CRT HDTV. Avia and DVE are on the way, I'll post settings once I've had a chance to play around with it. I'm particularly interested in the PC hookup and noticed that the few posts on 1:1 pixel mapping are getting lost... maybe some of us with PC connections can compare notes outside of the thread.

S-VIDEO? Did you know that s-video cannot transmit HDTV signals? Doesn't have enough bandwidth. It has to be component or higher.
post #1953 of 10825
Well I found part of my problem. The "Auto program" missed a few local HD channels. The problem ones were at a frequency other than the channel listed. So I manually dug them out.

How do you manually add a channel to the main program list? I currently put them in "Favorites".

Has anyone else experienced missed channels?

Mike
post #1954 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenmh View Post

If that's the case, then I'd agree with you. A guarantee is a guarantee. But I've never heard of that policy (doesn't mean that it doesn't exist) and the poster didn't mention it. It it was shipped from a warehouse rather than the local store, then such a policy wouldn't apply.

Anyway, I should mention I didn't post just to hijack the thread for a standard of care debate. I've been following for several weeks, and ordered a 50A10 from Vann's on Friday. Looks like it will arrive Monday along with a Samsung HD950, and new main and center speakers this week. Can't wait to get it hooked up... DVD via HDMI, PC via VGA, XBOX and PS2 via component, and DirecTiVo via S-video. This is my first RPTV... currently have a 32" CRT HDTV. Avia and DVE are on the way, I'll post settings once I've had a chance to play around with it. I'm particularly interested in the PC hookup and noticed that the few posts on 1:1 pixel mapping are getting lost... maybe some of us with PC connections can compare notes outside of the thread.

The VGA overscan at 1280*720 really isn't too bad. I use it with MCE and it's not been a problem. I used the NVidia driver tool to move the displayed picture up a little so I can see the taskbar in Windows Explorer. Of course, a service menu tweak to get rid of the overscan would be great.
post #1955 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by abward View Post

I am actually glad now that the TV is NOT bigger than 42", at least for my sitting distance of 11-13'. I say this due to the majority of content not being HD right now. With SD from cable/satellite and DVDs, my opinion is that this low-resolution content is not good to sit too close to.

Nice installation, Abward.

Do you mind sharing the dimensions of your cabinet opening and the inside area (which I assume is slightly wider beyond the "lip" on the sides)? I know you said there was about 1/2" to spair on each side, but I was looking for something a little more precise than that.

The reason I ask is because I have a very similar opening, and while I know the 42" A10 would fit, it would be extremely tight, and it's nearly impossible to evaluate how it would actually look without buying it and placing it in the cabinet. Your photos give me the visual I'm looking for, and having your dimensions would give me a basis of comparison.
post #1956 of 10825
Ready to pull the trigger on the KDF-E42A10. Intend to get the extended warranty for this set. Any feedback on quality of service and coverages for Best Buy, Circuit City, Sears or HHGregg would be helpful. The price of the set is important but being stuck with a less than favorable EW plan would be a poor choice. Comments and experiences with any of these retailers would be helpful.
post #1957 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by lipcrkr View Post

S-VIDEO? Did you know that s-video cannot transmit HDTV signals? Doesn't have enough bandwidth. It has to be component or higher.

I have SD DirecTV. S-video is the best output connection my box has (no component). I watch very little TV anyway. It will be used mostly for DVDs and games.
post #1958 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by datbeme View Post

...Do you mind sharing the dimensions of your cabinet opening and the inside area...

You betcha. It is 40.75" inside, and the opening is 39". Since the TV is 39 3/8", that leaves 11/16" on each side on the inside.

I forget the depth, but it was something like 21". Height is not an issue.

BTW, I have not tried sticking a cable on the side jacks yet. I guess I might be able to shoehorn one on. I did read somewhere that the side jack assembly comes off with two screws, and you can then twist it towards the back a bit to get some cables on it. Right now, this thing has so many inputs, I do not need the side ones!
post #1959 of 10825
abward

They're also right angle adapters for component input.
post #1960 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by hdtv4prs View Post

Ready to pull the trigger on the KDF-E42A10. Intend to get the extended warranty for this set. Any feedback on quality of service and coverages for Best Buy, Circuit City, Sears or HHGregg would be helpful. The price of the set is important but being stuck with a less than favorable EW plan would be a poor choice. Comments and experiences with any of these retailers would be helpful.

The main thing is make SURE the warranty doesn't exclude replacing bulbs, and get it in writing. This is by far the most likely reason you need the warranty in the first place. Let us know what you find out regarding who covers the bulbs, and who doesn't.
post #1961 of 10825
I'm finally getting my new 50A10 today.

I'll be using a DTV HD 10-250 box and a upconverting Toshiba SD5980 as sources for it. Both of these units offer HDMI outputs.

Since the majority of my viewing will be television, I'm planning to use the HDMI output from the DTV box and use component video out from the DVD player.

Will I loose anything using the component output from the DVD instead of HDMI?

Also, could anyone could recommend settings for the DVD player? 480P, 720P, or 1080i output?

Thanks,
Bob
post #1962 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanBuck View Post

The main thing is make SURE the warranty doesn't exclude replacing bulbs, and get it in writing. This is by far the most likely reason you need the warranty in the first place. Let us know what you find out regarding who covers the bulbs, and who doesn't.

When I bought my 42a10 from BB, I asked them specifically if they would cover bulb replacement. The sales reps said yes, and I just got off the phone with 1-888 number, and they said they will replace the bulbs (not just one) for the life of the EW.
post #1963 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by vabch22 View Post

When I bought my 42a10 from BB, I asked them specifically if they would cover bulb replacement. The sales reps said yes, and I just got off the phone with 1-888 number, and they said they will replace the bulbs (not just one) for the life of the EW.

Looks like the bulb costs $199 (per SonyStyle web page) and EW costs $400 (per BB web page) - what's the expected life of the bulb? I couldn't find that in the manual or on Sony's web site.
post #1964 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyv View Post

Looks like the bulb costs $199 (per SonyStyle web page) and EW costs $400 (per BB web page) - what's the expected life of the bulb? I couldn't find that in the manual or on Sony's web site.

It's hard to say depending on usage habits, but around 6000 hrs.
post #1965 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by vabch22 View Post

It's hard to say depending on usage habits, but around 6000 hrs.

So, if we averaged 6 hrs per day (a little higher than our current TV usage) we'd probably have to replace the bulb once during the four year EW.
post #1966 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobRiff View Post

I'm finally getting my new 50A10 today.

I'll be using a DTV HD 10-250 box and a upconverting Toshiba SD5980 as sources for it. Both of these units offer HDMI outputs.

Since the majority of my viewing will be television, I'm planning to use the HDMI output from the DTV box and use component video out from the DVD player.

Will I loose anything using the component output from the DVD instead of HDMI?

Also, could anyone could recommend settings for the DVD player? 480P, 720P, or 1080i output?

Thanks,
Bob

I'm also getting the the 50A10 today. Friday will also be getting the DTV HD 10-250 and hooking up Samsung DVD HD850 which has an HDMI connection. So, I have the same question. I originally was thinking DVD w/HDMI, DTV w/component. Now I'm not so sure. I talked to the local DTV installation mgr and he recommended DVD w/HDMI. One last twist, my locals will be OTA coming in through the DTV HD 10-250-does that impact which way I should connect?

Lastly, although I've been researching this TV and HD since the previous model last year. I'm really excited about getting it. I'm no expert when it comes to this stuff but I do have maybe a little OCD when it comes to wanting to learn how it all works and the best methods, etc.. I found this site a mere 2 weeks ago and it has been a tremendous help all the way around. Thanks.
post #1967 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyv View Post

So, if we averaged 6 hrs per day (a little higher than our current TV usage) we'd probably have to replace the bulb once during the four year EW.

My thoughts exactly. So I figure $200 for an EW is not bad at all for 4 yrs and piece of mind. Plus if you're an avid gamer/tv/movie watcher, I'm sure some people will burn through bulbs like crazy.
post #1968 of 10825
Just so there's no confusion. There is no bulb coverage at Best Buy or FutureShop in Canada... it's different here.

Question becomes...is the service plan still worth it?
post #1969 of 10825
Laura,

I think it's personal preference. Some people say EW's are a waste of time, some say they're a good thing. I could go either way, it just depends on what item you have. If you have an older CRT RP, then I'd say yes due to the fact of convergence issues, and more moving parts. I had an old Sony 51" TV that I had flicker, A/V input, and bad CRT issues, so I was glad I purchased the EW. LCD wise, they have less moving parts, so that's not much of an issue.

I have been quoted by local dealers that if you take an LCD TV out of the box and set it up, and it works fine, you're most likely set. If it is going to have issues, it will out of the box or during the manf. warranty.

If BB does not cover bulbs up there and you would like an EW, I would recommend going directly through Sony. Their warranties are cheaper than buying from CC or BB. Plus, you can't go wrong buying directly from Sony.

Good luck,
Matt
post #1970 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyv View Post

So, if we averaged 6 hrs per day (a little higher than our current TV usage) we'd probably have to replace the bulb once during the four year EW.

Uh, 6 hours x 365 days x 4 years = 8760 hours.

3 years @ 6 hours/day would be 6570 hours. At 6 hours/day, the rated life of the bulb is about 2 years 9 months.

Sorry for the bad news.
post #1971 of 10825
I am in the camp that thinks extended warranties are a waste of money.. You spending alot of money upfront. If the bulb lasts 6000 hours.. Your spending double what a bulb costs over 4 years if you only replace it once...

The pricing is just way overpriced on them..

Chris
post #1972 of 10825
Not sure if anyone has posted this but BB and CC now have the A10s available on their web sites. No discount off list at BB but the 50 inch sells for $2299 at CC ($200 below list).
post #1973 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoopnoop View Post

Not sure if anyone has posted this but BB and CC now have the A10s available on their web sites. No discount off list at BB but the 50 inch sells for $2299 at CC ($200 below list).

I was in CC yesterday and the salesguy I spoke with said the 50A10 was $50 less than the site's listing and then offered to take another $100 off when I told him I just wanted to check the image and would be buying later. FWIW, the 42A10 had a sign at $400 off MSRP.
post #1974 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrible_Tom View Post

Uh, 6 hours x 365 days x 4 years = 8760 hours.

3 years @ 6 hours/day would be 6570 hours. At 6 hours/day, the rated life of the bulb is about 2 years 9 months.

Sorry for the bad news.

Yep - 4 years is a little less than 1.5 bulbs. So, I'd burn out the bulb that comes in the A10, and get one "free" bulb under the EW and only be half way thru the life of that when the EW ran out. So, I'd have gotten a $200 return on my $400 investment, sometime in the third year.

In my book, money has a time value, plus, over time prices on high tech items tend to go down, so, I don't think paying $400 up front to extend the warrenty from 1 yr to 4 years is that good a value when the bulbs carry a current price of $199.
post #1975 of 10825
Can anyone recommend a compatible DVD player for A10 (mine is a 42)? Is an upscaling player better than a progressive scan? There must be a thread on this topic. Thanks for any response or references.
post #1976 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by iKnowKungFoo View Post

I was in CC yesterday and the salesguy I spoke with said the 50A10 was $50 less than the site's listing and then offered to take another $100 off when I told him I just wanted to check the image and would be buying later. FWIW, the 42A10 had a sign at $400 off MSRP.

$400 off MSRP on a 42A10 is really good. Sears was offering 10% off A10's with 1 yr no interest/no pmt, which seemed pretty good. Was the CC price just on their floor demo unit, or, was that good for new units?
post #1977 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by iKnowKungFoo View Post

I was in CC yesterday and the salesguy I spoke with said the 50A10 was $50 less than the site's listing and then offered to take another $100 off when I told him I just wanted to check the image and would be buying later. FWIW, the 42A10 had a sign at $400 off MSRP.

Wow, I wonder if that 42A10 price is nationwide... I'll have to stop on my way home & check, could have $100 refunded to me under their price protection...
post #1978 of 10825
Which component to use w/HDMI on the 50a10

Samsung DVD HD850?

or

DTV HD 10-250 w/ OTA locals coming through it?

Any experiences w/ these two devices would be greatly appreciated.
post #1979 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctcousineau View Post

Wow, I wonder if that 42A10 price is nationwide... I'll have to stop on my way home & check, could have $100 refunded to me under their price protection...

I was thinkin the same thing.. Im in mass as well so id be interested in finding out if that price is the same here..

CHris
post #1980 of 10825
Quote:
Originally Posted by turtles View Post

Which component to use w/HDMI on the 50a10

Samsung DVD HD850?

or

DTV HD 10-250 w/ OTA locals coming through it?

Any experiences w/ these two devices would be greatly appreciated.

My logic is this: The DirecTV box is cable of receiving a picture that is 720P or 1080i, and therefore will make better use of the HDMI connection. The DVD player is starting with a lower resolution (480i) and upconverting it, so it cannot theoretically ever be as good as a signal that is 720P or 1080i.

Someone correct me if I am wrong.
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