Grand Wega V Tweeks - Page 93

I can't speak to the superwhite, as I haven't seen any difference on my equipment, but the TV will support full range RGB. It dims the picture considerably, though. For dark scenes on Bluray, I had to bring my brightness up to 75 from 47 after turning full RGB on. I personally didn't like the result, but feel free to give it a try - make sure you compare different video sources with it, though (DVD, BD, Games, Video files).
Let me know what you think.

I didn't have this problem before I replaced my Bulb in TV(KFE42A10) but my wife and son noticed while we watching a hockey game the centre of the screen is a faint yellow. It not that annoying you really have to look for it everything else is fine but it wasn't there before I changed my bulb. I was wondering if any else has had this happen to them and hopefully could have solution to correct this.

Probably the result of a failed optical block - a costly repair (this is quickly becoming an epidemic among Sony rear projection televisions). Go to sonya20tvclassaction dot com to learn more and sign up for the mailing list.

okay, time to revive an old thread... I've done the red push and greyscale tweaks a long time ago, but just wanted to see what calibrated settings most of you recommend for this set. Thanks!

I probably have much different products than you are using but if you wanna know what settings I found to be great after the red push and greayscale tweaks:
[note I'll probably edit this post dozens of times as new stuff is added/old taken away]


Coaxial
Over-the-Air (480i, 720p, 1080i)
Custom
Iris - 2
Picture - 80
Brightness - 48
Color - 28
Hue - G5
Color Temp - Warm 2
Sharpness - 15
Noise R. - Off
DRC - ---
DRC cp - ---
Advanced Video:
Black Corrector - Off
Advanced Iris - Low
Gamma - Max
Clear White - Off
Live Color - Low


HDMI via Monoprice switchbox
D-VHS (JVC HM-DT100u, 480p)
Custom
Iris - 2
Picture - 80
Brightness - 51
Color - 59
Hue - G5
Color Temp - Warm 2
Sharpness - 15
Noise R. - Off
DRC - ---
DRC cp - ---
Advanced Video:
Black Corrector - Off
Advanced Iris - Low
Gamma - Max
Clear White - Off
Live Color - Off


HDMI via Monoprice switchbox
HD DVD (Toshiba HD-XA1, 720p [DVD], 1080i [HD DVD])
Custom
Iris - 2
Picture - 80
Brightness - 48
Color - 55
Hue - G5
Color Temp - Warm 2
Sharpness - 15
Noise R. - Off
DRC - ---
DRC cp - ---
Advanced Video:
Black Corrector - Off
Advanced Iris - Low
Gamma - Max
Clear White - Off
Live Color - Off


HDMI via Monoprice switchbox
Blu-ray (Panasonic DMP-BD70v, 720p [DVD], 1080i [Blu-ray])
Custom
Iris - 2
Picture - 80
Brightness - 48
Color - 55
Hue - G5
Color Temp - Warm 2
Sharpness - 15
Noise R. - Off
DRC - ---
DRC cp - ---
Advanced Video:
Black Corrector - Off
Advanced Iris - Low
Gamma - Max
Clear White - Off
Live Color - Off


HDMI via Monoprice switchbox
Microsoft Xbox 360 (720p)
Custom
Iris - 2
Picture - 80
Brightness - 64
Color - 52
Hue - G5
Color Temp - Warm 2
Sharpness - 15
Noise R. - Off
DRC - ---
DRC cp - ---
Advanced Video:
Black Corrector - Off
Advanced Iris - Low
Gamma - Max
Clear White - Off
Live Color - Off


Component
Sony PlayStation2, Nintendo Wii, Nintendo GameCube, Microsoft Xbox (480p)
Custom
Iris - 2
Picture - 80
Brightness - 50
Color - 46
Hue - G5
Color Temp - Warm 2
Sharpness - 15
Noise R. - Off
DRC - ---
DRC cp - ---
Advanced Video:
Black Corrector - Off
Advanced Iris - Low
Gamma - Max
Clear White - Off
Live Color - Off


I had an S-VHS machine hooked up at one point via s-video before the D-VHS arrived and I just recently switched the Xbox 360 from VGA to HDMI. I've also used a Micomsoft XRGB-2+ via VGA for various game consoles as well.

It took me forever and a day to get the D-VHS machine "just right." The previous S-VHS unit was easy as pie but due to all the upconverting the D-VHS machine does, well, that's why my settings may appear really odd but trust me, either via Component or HDMI these are the setting that make VHS and S-VHS look "wow" from this machine

I'm still trying to find "the best" settings for Over-the-Air high definition reception. I've got a pretty good one for me and my tastes but colors are a bit off still depending on the program and station. If anyone can post what they use for Over-the-Air I'd like to see it

I know it's been a while since you shared this, but any chance you can post those SUB_CONT and SUB_BRIGHT settings that go along with your rgb master/offsets?

Just trying to get an idea as I calibrate my set with an i1 LT and the HCFR software. I think SUB_CONT and SUB_BRIGHT are pretty important, as I suspect these set the "floor" for the user brightness/picture settings; meaning you can leave brightness at 50 and picture at 90 on the user menu, but the proper offsets are set in the service menu...

Thanks much,

Sam T

Hi, I own Sony Wega LCD Projection TV (KF-E42A10) for last 3 years and had a display problem since yesterday. The screen appearing with complete dots instead of plain blue screen when I switches on. However the wega menu function works good but still I cannot able to play any videos or cannot able to connect the cable services clearly except the image appears dotted. I would appreciate if you can find me the solution. Thank you.

sonysamuelm - Sounds like an optical block issue. If so, that isn't good

I would agree with that. My TV recently started showing the same problems

Greets all,

I own the KDFE42A10; does anyone know if there is a gamma control in the service menu? The user (WEGA gate) gamma control only goes "higher," I need to go "lower"...

Thanks much,

Sam T

To answer my own question, yes there is a gamma control in the service menu; it's called "P_GAMMA". Set it to 0023 (default is 0020) to achieve roughly 2.25 display gamma for this set. There may be other values that provide the same effect, but this is what I settled on. Note that you must "toggle" the "Gamma" setting in the user menu (WEGA gate) for the new P_GAMMA setting to take effect.

I have done the red /gray push 2 yrs ago. Just got a new lamp and want to reset all to defaults.
My set is a kdf-e50a10 is it hold up and press the power on on the set?

Just checked my lamp time yesterday, never looked at it since I bought it in 2006. It shows 7894 hrs on the lamp, pretty happy It probably will need replacing sometimes soon , do you think I can run the tv till the lamp dies or would I be better off to replace it now. I don't want the lamp to explode. I don't mind the dimness I'm used to it so it does not show to me (and I'm watching my movies on my PJ and the 100 inch screen) mostly use this set for news watching some playing and the kid's cartoons.

I was looking at lamp price and it seems to hover at about 100$ (which is a lot less than a new tv). So I don't really mind repalcing it now if it prevent problems. What does a lamp do when it fails?

Your lamp is not going to explode when it burns out. One day you will turn on the set and the lamp will burn out just like an ordinary light bulb. However, you probaly won't see a flash as the bulb is internal and it's so fast, the screen won't even illuminate. Occasionally, a lamp will burn out during use, but that's rare.
Having said that, if you replaced your bulb now, you would notice a nice difference in brightness plus you'd have your old one as a spare if you keep the set for another 8000 hours.