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Bar plans? - Page 17

post #481 of 854
Okay, first off, don't use a foam brush.....too much thingys left behind. As Irmo says, go to the dollar store and buy a plastic cake icing spatula. Shaped like this;

_________/====

I began standing inside my bar (bartender's view) poured against the bar rail and pulled it towards me. Others may have different experiences.

EDIT; oh, and don't forget to make a dust cover FIRST so you can make certain you minimize dust settling on that perfect surface you just poured.
post #482 of 854
great ascii drawing
post #483 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

Okay, first off, don't use a foam brush.....too much thingys left behind. As Irmo says, go to the dollar store and buy a plastic cake icing spatula. Shaped like this;

_________/====

I began standing inside my bar (bartender's view) poured against the bar rail and pulled it towards me. Others may have different experiences.

EDIT; oh, and don't forget to make a dust cover FIRST so you can make certain you minimize dust settling on that perfect surface you just poured.

Okay thanks Randy.... I will be starting this weekend with just a very thin coat on the bar rail itself to seal the oak (per envirotex) then I'll be ordering the rest and hopefully getting it done in the next week or two.
post #484 of 854
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LSWHO View Post

Some photos of my bar that still has a ways to go...Bar top is copper and will be covered with envirotex. Where is everyone here getting their envirotex from?

That copper is awesome! I like the look of that a LOT better then the granite tiles I got. That is a great, great look. I might have to think about changing. Where did you get the copper? On line? I assume once you pour the envirotex it is a perfectly smooth top?
post #485 of 854
I agree, can you imagine what it will look like once it's poured? It is going to have such depth. My top is ten times better looking with the enviortex. I can't wait to see the results from Dennis' pour. I think this bar is going to raise the "bar" for bar builds....
post #486 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

I agree, can you imagine what it will look like once it's poured? It is going to have such depth. My top is ten times better looking with the enviortex. I can't wait to see the results from Dennis' pour. I think this bar is going to raise the "bar" for bar builds....

Thanks Randy but I had nothing but problems this weekend...I tried the Envirotex on a cigar box that I had and some shelves (just extra stuff) to try and get familiar with the envirotex. I thought I had a pretty good idea of how it was so I tried the bar rail.....what a mess. I don't even know where to start. First off per envirotex I was told to put down a seal coat because of the oak. I put down a very thin layer following the directions to a T. Well I should have known this wasn't going to work when it was bubbling like crazy per the directions you shouldn't use a propane torch on a seal coat so I just had a blow dryer and my breath, but when you have a 32 oz already mixed you can't really try and see what's going on otherwise you'll end up wasting it. So I continued....it has for lack of a better term "circles" all over it. almost like it didn't adhear to the wood or something? At the same time I did the drip rail also and this turned out perfect. I used the same method for the both so I don't think it was not sanded or wiped down enough or anything like that. (I sanded all of the bar with 100 then 150 then 220 then 320 then 420 then wiped it all down with tack cloth 2 times. I am not sure what happened but just a little frustrated at this point. Why couldn't it be the drip rail that sucked I could have hid that alot easier than the main view - the bar rail....I think the angle of the bar rail had something to do with it but not 100%.
post #487 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdallnct View Post

That copper is awesome! I like the look of that a LOT better then the granite tiles I got. That is a great, great look. I might have to think about changing. Where did you get the copper? On line? I assume once you pour the envirotex it is a perfectly smooth top?

Thanks Sdallnct,
I purchased the copper in a rolled up sheet online from Storm Copper - google it for their site & prices (free shipping and cheapest price is why I choose them). 15" x 16ft of .10 thick copper sheeting. I then covered particle board in three sections (I wouldn't use particle board again - I would use either MDF or cabinet grade plywood) I covered it with contact cement from DAP that is for metal (red can) and folded over the sides (I would have done it different maybe used a flush end router on it and not folder it over, you can get a much cleaner look by cutting the edge rather than folding it) I then took a drill with a steel brush attatchment and proceeded to make the circular markings you see. This gives it the depth almost 3D. I then sealed it with a stuff called copper shield from a spray can (also from storm copper) to seal in the nice shiny color (I didn't want it to patina or turn colors overtime, just personal preference) I do plan on using the envirotex for the top of the bar but currently having problems with the envirotex on the bar rail so it is selayed until I can get it straightend up.
post #488 of 854
I was afraid of that. The Etex runs like crazy on anything but a flat surface. If you put on a coat of sealer, I would think it would act like poly and the Etex would roll off like water on an oil surface. That's why I mentioned to let it set up a bit to thicken. I'm sorry to here of your problems, but everyone around here has a problem occaisionaly. Don't get discouraged, you will get it worked out.

The good news is you can pour more to make up the mistake.

I still have to pour another coat on my top to fix my screw ups. Keep your chin up, Dennis!
post #489 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

I was afraid of that. The Etex runs like crazy on anything but a flat surface. If you put on a coat of sealer, I would think it would act like poly and the Etex would roll off like water on an oil surface. That's why I mentioned to let it set up a bit to thicken. I'm sorry to here of your problems, but everyone around here has a problem occaisionaly. Don't get discouraged, you will get it worked out.

The good news is you can pour more to make up the mistake.

I still have to pour another coat on my top to fix my screw ups. Keep your chin up, Dennis!


Randy, heres some pics, i'll post more on my thread.


post #490 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrodshook View Post

For the sink, my first recommendation is to get a square one. Makes the cuts very simple. Second, take a look at this picture.



I placed the granite so the left side ended at the sink, so the only cuts I had to make were on the right side of the sink. It was 2 simple "L" pieces I had to make. No problem at all.

Now, my neighbor just finished a similar project and he had a round copper sink and he a miserable time cutting it. Hard to explain, but he marked the tile and then using his wet saw he just cut a bunch of strips into the granite up to he line. You could say he cut perpendicular to the circle he traced on the tile. Then, he just snapped the thin pieces off. It worked, it just took him a while to do it.

Jerrod I have a question about your sink allignment. I see how you moved the sink next to a tile edge to simplify cutting and I'm thinking now that I will be able to do the same thing. Can you tell me how did you do the grout where the sink meets up to the tile edge? What did you use to attach the sink to granite top? I think I'm going to pick up the same sink.
post #491 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by LSWHO View Post

Thanks Sdallnct,
I purchased the copper in a rolled up sheet online from Storm Copper - google it for their site & prices (free shipping and cheapest price is why I choose them). 15" x 16ft of .10 thick copper sheeting. I then covered particle board in three sections (I wouldn't use particle board again - I would use either MDF or cabinet grade plywood) I covered it with contact cement from DAP that is for metal (red can) and folded over the sides (I would have done it different maybe used a flush end router on it and not folder it over, you can get a much cleaner look by cutting the edge rather than folding it) I then took a drill with a steel brush attatchment and proceeded to make the circular markings you see. This gives it the depth almost 3D. I then sealed it with a stuff called copper shield from a spray can (also from storm copper) to seal in the nice shiny color (I didn't want it to patina or turn colors overtime, just personal preference) I do plan on using the envirotex for the top of the bar but currently having problems with the envirotex on the bar rail so it is selayed until I can get it straightend up.


I could not find the copper sheeting in .10 on the site you listed. also did you order it in the sheet or the copper foil roll. I can't wait to see more pics of this. Absolutely amazing!
post #492 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by djmas View Post

I could not find the copper sheeting in .10 on the site you listed. also did you order it in the sheet or the copper foil roll. I can't wait to see more pics of this. Absolutely amazing!


Marcus, I detailed it more in a PM to you but it was listed on their site as a Copper Foil Roll at .10 thickness - 30 gauge. It came rolled up. I have some more photos on my thread (just click on it in my signature section)
thanks,
Dennis
post #493 of 854
Dennis, thanks so much for the pm. Once again I must say your's came out amazing. Hope mine comes out half as good, now if I could just get started!

hahaha,
post #494 of 854
Have an Envirotex question. I bought a gallon kit that covers 32 sqft. I assume it's at 1/8" but not sure. I have a bar surface that's about 16.6 sqft (roughly 10' X 20"). Question is should I mix the whole thing and do a single pour or should I do half of it and do two pours? Am I correct that the coverage is based on 1/8" thick?
post #495 of 854
Yes, 1/8 ince PER POUR. Build it up in several layers. My top is about 16" inches wide incuding the drip tray. 7 feet plus 4 feet = 11 feet X 16 inches wide. I mixed a combined 96 oz for my first pour (48 oz of each part) and it was plenty.
post #496 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

Yes, 1/8 ince PER POUR. Build it up in several layers. My top is about 16" inches wide incuding the drip tray. 7 feet plus 4 feet = 11 feet X 16 inches wide. I mixed a combined 96 oz for my first pour (48 oz of each part) and it was plenty.



So how thick did most people go? Is 1/8" enough or should you do 1/4"?
post #497 of 854
I think your only limitation is how you have the bar top dammed up. Since it will seek its own level you could build up the sides to hold as much as you want. The instructions recommend 1/8. Perhaps its because it would take a longer time to cure.... I dunno.
post #498 of 854
Well I did my pour and ran into an issue. I took your advice and sealed the cracks/spaces between the top and the rail/trim with clear silicone. Unfortunately what I feared would happen did. Where ever there was silicone the envirotex was repelled. Not blaming you just want to warn people. I've got a call into the company asking for advice. I'll let you know what the say. I don't know if there is something I can do to the silicone so that it takes. I used a pretty hefty pour 96 oz so I don't think that was the issue.
post #499 of 854
Hmmmm...interesting....didn't happen to me.
post #500 of 854
Well they told me I can try to use some poly or maybe clear fingernail polish to put a seal coat over the silicone. Then try to put more Envirotex over the area.
post #501 of 854
Do you have any pictures to show us?
post #502 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

Do you have any pictures to show us?

I'll try to take a few tonight when I get home. I'm going to stop and pick up some nail polish on the way home. I'll probably need to get some more Envirotex also.
post #503 of 854
You don't have to do your nails before the second pour of EnviroTex
post #504 of 854
Good one, Randy.

I would've thought that enough E-tex would "overpower" whatever repellant the silicone provided...that is strange.
post #505 of 854
Funny.
post #506 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by IrmoGamecoq View Post

Good one, Randy.

I would've thought that enough E-tex would "overpower" whatever repellant the silicone provided...that is strange.

I only had a small bead between the rail and top. Maybe he/she had too much silicone, I dunno. Maybe I poured enough Etex on and it leveled out and could not repel the Etex.
post #507 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

I only had a small bead between the rail and top. Maybe he/she had too much silicone, I dunno. Maybe I poured enough Etex on and it leveled out and could not repel the Etex.

He (Ken) by the way. Basically I applied it just like you would caulk. I put a bead in all the seams then used my finger to smooth it out. Obviously when smoothing it out it spread out a little. These are the areas that are repelling. From the reading I've done since, just about nothing will stick to silicone and it's about impossible to remove chemically. You pretty much have to use abbrasion to get rid of it. Even when removed it still tends to leave a film. I also read that another thing that can be used as a seal coat over the silicone would be contact cement. Wish me luck.

Another bit of advice I would impart is not to use Maple. This has to be some of the hardest wood I've ever tried to stain. It just didn't want to take it well.
post #508 of 854
Sorry to hear of your difficulites, Ken. Keep at it!
post #509 of 854
I'm willing to bet another coat of e-tex will cover that right up. It doesn't matter how much it tries to "repel" it...gravity will over power it.

P.S. I'm pretty sure my e-tex is at least 1/4" thick on my bar.
post #510 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by IrmoGamecoq View Post

P.S. I'm pretty sure my e-tex is at least 1/4" thick on my bar.

yeah...and it's real purdy too....
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