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Bar plans? - Page 26

post #751 of 854
I like it as well. I would like to see some more pics if you dont mind though. Maybe some of behind the bar and what you have done with that area as well as some details of the work. Did you mortar these blocks together etc?
post #752 of 854
http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1251246740
I only have a few pictures from other side, took it when I was still working on it. I,ll Post more as soon as I get my camera back from repair shop.

http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1251246928

One more

http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1251246975

I also have fridge behind bar.
post #753 of 854
What did I do wrong inserting pictures?
post #754 of 854
You didnt use img tags. Copy the img code from photobucket with the tags in front of it and after it.
post #755 of 854
Looks nice. Any shots from down lower so we can see the fridge as well as the way the bar was constructed? Are the blocks mortared?
post #756 of 854
I only used clear silicone, it looks better. Plus I used some aluminum rods to tie them together.
post #757 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by jagelas View Post

I only used clear silicone, it looks better. Plus I used some aluminum rods to tie them together.

All you used is silicone to attatch them? Is the bar front sturdy?? Any more pics?? We all love pics on this site trust me. The more details and pics the better. I am very intrigued about this glass block front as I considered it at the start of my build
post #758 of 854
Yes, silicone only. Bar feels strong, seems look better then with any color mortar. I was going to use mortar, but when I was buying blocks, guy told me about silicone, then I looked it up on line and did it. Between rows I used spacers, plastic, special for glass block. Like I said earlier, my camera is in repair shop, after camping, lense broke They said it will take about two weeks, so after that I'll post more pictures of complette bar.
post #759 of 854

I wanted to do L shape, but my wife won....


Took me about 5 days to do block only, one row at the time.

I was thinking about laminate counter top, but decided to make it myself, using plywood.





Bar is strong, you can sit on it (tested )
post #760 of 854
Wow you did an awesome job at the radius and making the bar top similar to the radius of the block. It looks amazing. I agree with the silicone I just wouldnt of thought to do it. It looks great. As for the bar top how did you finish it. I see the plywood, where did you go from there?
post #761 of 854
I stained top and clear coted, maybe 7 times, but my plans are to do envirotex. I red a lot about it, but did not get to it yet. Plus, I have plans and ideas for some bar shelves, with lights inside, but no time to work on it.
post #762 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by jagelas View Post

I stained top and clear coted, maybe 7 times, but my plans are to do envirotex. I red a lot about it, but did not get to it yet. Plus, I have plans and ideas for some bar shelves, with lights inside, but no time to work on it.

Do the envirotex. I did the drip tray on mine already and its really easy to use. I have not done the entire top yet but that is in the plans for the near future. But the stuff is really easy to work with.
post #763 of 854
Hi, I'm working on finishing my basement and I got to a point where anxiety is setting in. The bathroom is definitely going to be bigger than I expected, which means its eating into other space, most notably the bar area. The combination of bigger bathroom, and the support pole is making for an awkward design for the bar.

Original plans had a straight bar going from the wall to the pole. The front of the bar would begin right next to the built-in shelving space. The bigger bathroom means there is less space between the bathroom wall and the shelving space. That space is 48". The plan now is to have the bar be 22" in depth and 26" of walk space behind. Just not sure that is enough. Also, the length of the bar may extend out past the pole. It is 68" from wall to pole and 30" from pole to end of bathroom wall. The pole could end up being right in middle of the bar.

Do you think the total depth of 22" is enough? Is 26" of walk space enough?

I'd love to hear other design ideas. I wanted to keep the bar where it is, as opposed to in front of the shelving, because I wanted to use that floor space for a poker table.

http://picasaweb.google.com/JAMDLP79...30549040666914
post #764 of 854
Just keep in mind you'd probably want 9" to 12" bartop overhang , so minus that from your 22" and you'll have an idea of the size of your cabinets or shelving underneath . You could also use your wall studs behind the bar to incoorperate shelving also . that's what i did .( a place for your bottles etc.)

http://img24.imageshack.us/i/img0688i.jpg/

26" behind the bar should be OK
post #765 of 854
What is everyone using for lighting? Im looking for ideas for lighting the bar top and back bar areas. Puck Lights? Xenon or Halogen?
post #766 of 854
I personally used surface mount puck lights on a dimmer for my back wall liquor shelf lighting & halogen pot lights above my bar ( on a dimmer also).
So many options out there though . Rope lighting is another option too .
post #767 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by malbols View Post

I personally used surface mount puck lights on a dimmer for my back wall liquor shelf lighting & halogen pot lights above my bar ( on a dimmer also).
So many options out there though . Rope lighting is another option too .


For your puck lights, where did you mount the transformer? What size pot lights are you using?
post #768 of 854
No transformer - they are 120V
the pot lights are 3 or 4" i think
post #769 of 854
For you guys using the enviro-tex, has anyone experienced any problems with scratching or yellowing of the surface? How does it hold up to hot pans/mugs/etc?

Has anyone used Crystal Sheen or Ultra-Glo?
post #770 of 854
There shouldn't be yellowing issues . Scratches can be waxed or compounded out . As extra protection you can put a coat of wax on the Etex .
You can't put hot pans on the surface . Also if anything heavy is placed on the surface you will get some deformation of the surface . What's good though is once the object is moved , eventually the surface will rebound back to where it was . (don't worry the surface is not soft )
post #771 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by malbols View Post

There shouldn't be yellowing issues . Scratches can be waxed or compounded out . As extra protection you can put a coat of wax on the Etex .
You can't put hot pans on the surface . Also if anything heavy is placed on the surface you will get some deformation of the surface . What's good though is once the object is moved , eventually the surface will rebound back to where it was . (don't worry the surface is not soft )

Thanks - I emailed the company and asked about the etex verses the crystal sheen. They seemed to recommended the crystal sheen and ultra glo for commercial purposes and etex for home. However when I commented on that they could be used for either purpose. I guess the problem I have with the company is that they sell 3 very similar products (the descriptions are all similar) and there is no clear (no pun intended) way to tell which is better for a bar application. Obviously I am worried about scratching and wear and tear. This stuff isnt cheap and I would think not easy to replace/change.

The customer rep did mention that there could be some yellowing with direct sunlight and does not handle heat well above 130 degrees (coffee heat).
post #772 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by misterkit View Post

Thanks - I emailed the company and asked about the etex verses the crystal sheen. They seemed to recommended the crystal sheen and ultra glo for commercial purposes and etex for home. However when I commented on that they could be used for either purpose. I guess the problem I have with the company is that they sell 3 very similar products (the descriptions are all similar) and there is no clear (no pun intended) way to tell which is better for a bar application. Obviously I am worried about scratching and wear and tear. This stuff isnt cheap and I would think not easy to replace/change.

The customer rep did mention that there could be some yellowing with direct sunlight and does not handle heat well above 130 degrees (coffee heat).

I can not comment on the wear of the stuff as I have only had mine down a few months and have not used the bar yet but as for the heat they specifically state in the directions not to place hot pans, cups etc on it. So my suggestion is simply use a coaster for your coffee cup and you should be fine. I would assume that the commercial grade stuff may be a little more durable but then again there are alot of companies that use multiple packages for one product in order to reach multiple markets.

P.S. I used the etex!!
post #773 of 854
I dont think so much that its ME putting down the hot cup, but the drunks that dont know any better ;-). You do bring up a good point though, same product, different packaging. Its something to look in to.
post #774 of 854
Hello All -

New member here currently building an 8' straight bar and back mirror/shelves/lighted/display type thing.

This is great, you guys all ROCK! Everyone's bar looks awesome!

My question is this:
If I were to Envirotex my bar top, then down the road wanted to add to the bar, say make it an "L" or "U" sape, would I be able to just pour each addition and have it blend/match or would I need to srip it down (the straight piece) and start the finishing from scratch?

Thanks,

Sean
post #775 of 854
hmmm - you could put a wood strip between the two bars & pour the bar addition seperately . or if you dont want to see the strip , you could pour the bar addition , allowing enough etex to flow over the original etex surface ( lightly sanded) to provide a seamless surface . Just make sure the bar addition is tied in securely to the original bar .
post #776 of 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

Still a work in progress, but I used dimensional lumber and plywood and came up with this;


This bar is a single plywood thickness attached to the existing sink cabinet. Remove two small bolts and I can slide the bar (via nylon slides attached to the bottom) anywhere in the room to move items in and out of the door on the right.

Very nice
post #777 of 854
Very nice. Any updated pics?
post #778 of 854
Just put in "wetbar plans" in the ebay search box or use the link below:

The seller name is emrixdistributors.

These are great plans made by someone who built his own bar. I like that they are simple and have photos of each step. Customizable too.
post #779 of 854
Thread Starter 
Anyone have step by step directions for building a top with that poured epoxy stuff?

I think I want to replace my little bistro side table I use in my bar. The table sits in a corner, so I'm thinking of building one myself a corner table unit. I could make it bigger yet actually take up less space.

And I want to either use some sort of broken tile pieces or yes, perhaps the stereo typical beer bottle tops for the surface.

I know several people did this with their bar tops, so I thought I'd bump an old thread rather than start a new one...

Thanks
post #780 of 854
I used envirotex last summer on my bar top. There was a rather detailed thread here with do's and dont's that was very spot on accurate. It's a must find and read before you attempt to pour.
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