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Happy H79/H78dc3 owners thread - Page 45

post #1321 of 1389
Why don't you tell us where you got the Osram and the price anyway?
post #1322 of 1389
If you go to that auction site that we are forbidden to mention and search for Optoma H79 bulb you will find one for $164.



Just a FYI I have had a couple failure to launch start ups at a much earlier stage with the Orsam bulb then I can recall with the Phillips. Both times I unplugged the Projector, and restarted it and it fired up fine.
post #1323 of 1389
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

If you go to that auction site that we are forbidden to mention and search for Optoma H79 bulb you will find one for $164.



Just a FYI I have had a couple failure to launch start ups at a much earlier stage with the Orsam bulb then I can recall with the Phillips. Both times I unplugged the Projector, and restarted it and it fired up fine.



Thats the one I bought from that obscure auction site
post #1324 of 1389
Thread Starter 
The H78 is my main projector. I took the black metal piece off the bulb, it's there for cutting light spill out the air vent. But having a piece of metal cover half the bulb looks to me like it's better off. Easy tweak and so far my bulb is super bright.
post #1325 of 1389
Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarman View Post

The H78 is my main projector. I took the black metal piece off the bulb, it's there for cutting light spill out the air vent. But having a piece of metal cover half the bulb looks to me like it's better off. Easy tweak and so far my bulb is super bright.

Are y ou thinking that the black metal makes the bulb hotter or maybe creates hot spots on the bulb?

Did you ever add an extra fan to increase the air flow for your H78?
post #1326 of 1389
Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarman View Post

The H78 is my main projector. I took the black metal piece off the bulb, it's there for cutting light spill out the air vent. But having a piece of metal cover half the bulb looks to me like it's better off. Easy tweak and so far my bulb is super bright.


I'm surprised with all the PJ's you demo for Optoma you would have a latested and greatest. Sounds good on the mod, I'll also do it. I should be getting my new bulb today. THX
post #1327 of 1389
Wow, what a change the new bulb made, seems 50% brighter. I don't remember the old bulb being this bright. I wish new bulb would always be this bright. I removed the shield as guiterman suggested and only minor light spill out of the vent. This sure calmed my need for a new PJ.
post #1328 of 1389
Thread Starter 
Yes the metal cover is for cutting the light spill which really is no big deal. That metal covers half of the bulb, let it breath is my opinion. I did add a fan on the top (ceiling mouted) intake vent. I used the trigger input to run it. It does make a big difference in keeping the PJ cool, you can feel the difference when testing the average heat level with the back of your hand. Well that's the best we can do to keep the bulb cool as we can.

For now my projector is keeping steady, brightnes remains high, picture looks like a million bucks.

Tons of features also and this is a DC3, hell I'll take it.
post #1329 of 1389
Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarman View Post

Tons of features also and this is a DC3, hell I'll take it.

I have compared my H79 with a new Sanyo Z3000 (1080p) and while the Sanyo has some fun features and finer resolution, the H79 is brighter and throws a great picture. In fact, I was shocked that the H79 looked so good against the Z3000. Those HC3 chips are very nice indeed.

I also added a fan, but mine is on the exhaust vent. It keeps the heat down nicely, even on its lowest setting (3 speed fan). If they had provided a means to speed up the fan on these machines, I'm sure it would have added to bulb lifetimes.
post #1330 of 1389
Thread Starter 
The fan is so guiet on the H79, I was thinking of finding a high powered replacement inside the projector. I've had over 100 of these apart and think I could do it, I could also ask input from the engineering mgr. Wing has always had good input for me on the tech stuff on what's good and not good.
post #1331 of 1389
Speaking about temp issue (I have a H78):

I bought a temp sensor that I put in the bulb room. (just behind the bulb)
Without any extra fan, I have 98°C, I added a low rpm silent 120mm fan (directly plugged in the trigger), the temperature is now 80°C .

I hope it will help to longer the bulb life.
post #1332 of 1389
Feyris,

Can you describe how you mounted and powered the external fan and whether you have it blowing cool air into the unit or blowing hot air out/away for the unit?
post #1333 of 1389
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmackrell View Post

Feyris,

Can you describe how you mounted and powered the external fan and whether you have it blowing cool air into the unit or blowing hot air out/away for the unit?

I fixed the fan with ductape, with a few mm of felt between fan an projector (less noise, no stripes, and the fan work better if there is a little space in front of 'wings')

I will post a picture in the next message (I can't do it now because an antispam feature )
post #1334 of 1389


I agree it don't look very clean.
You can see the air flow in blue.
I didn't know the power that the trigger plug can handle, so I choose a fan with very low consumption.
It didn't make much moise then the original version. (aka very low)
Note the is a grid below the projector (in red in the picture).
It's better to block it (with ductape), otherwise, the fan take the air from this hole, not from the inside of projector. (tested: -8°C)
post #1335 of 1389
I used a clear 90mm Antec TriCool double ball bearing fan (DBB for better life time). You don't notice the clear fan against the projector when its mounted on the ceiling. It has a speed selector that allows Lo/Med/Hi fan speeds. I used white twist ties pulled through the vent slats to secure the fan. I left a small space between the fan and the projector body to reduce vibration noise and to allow air to flow behind the fan. The more air is obstructed the more noise a fan will make.

I normally keep the fan on Lo (21cfm, 14db) but if its warm in the house I put it on Med (28cfm, 25db). The temperatures drop significantly on the bottom of the projector and inside the wind tunnel.

I didn't block the small vent on the bottom of the projector. I tried with and without a block but it didn't make a lot of difference temperature wise and I didn't want to starve the fan for air.

I decided not to blow air in from the intake vent because that vent is so small that most of the air blown by the fan is directed against the case and not in the vent. Also anything obstructing the vent, like the filter will tend to raise the fan noise as the air interacts with it. I wanted a fan to be as unobstructed as possible. The 90mm fan just fits over the exhaust vent nicely.
LL
post #1336 of 1389
Guys,

Thanks for posting pics of your installs. So the general consensus is to "suck" or pull the hot air out of the projector?? Can you guys describe how you connected the fan power, using the trigger connector? It doesn't look like a standard 5 volt signal trigger using a 1/8" mini phono connector?? I've gotta dig up my optoma users manual and look into it.

Any input from Guitarman on using that trigger for powering a fan ?? Any long term issues? I have most of my equipment auto powering using the other 5 volt triggers but not the projector. I might be able to run a signal line back to my rack to the common transformer. Might also be the time to start triggering the power on signal on the projector. I've been somewhat lazy and making that happen.

Orion, can you post the specific part number of the model antec fan you used? I think I'm going to try this approach since my Optoma is ceiling mounted and that side of the projector faces the closed side of my room. I very much doubt you'll be able to see it.
post #1337 of 1389
Quote:
Originally Posted by orion456 View Post

I used a clear 90mm Antec TriCool double ball bearing fan (DBB for better life time). You don't notice the clear fan against the projector when its mounted on the ceiling. It has a speed selector that allows Lo/Med/Hi fan speeds. I used white twist ties pulled through the vent slats to secure the fan. I left a small space between the fan and the projector body to reduce vibration noise and to allow air to flow behind the fan. The more air is obstructed the more noise a fan will make.

I normally keep the fan on Lo (21cfm, 14db) but if its warm in the house I put it on Med (28cfm, 25db). The temperatures drop significantly on the bottom of the projector and inside the wind tunnel.

I didn't block the small vent on the bottom of the projector. I tried with and without a block but it didn't make a lot of difference temperature wise and I didn't want to starve the fan for air.

I decided not to blow air in from the intake vent because that vent is so small that most of the air blown by the fan is directed against the case and not in the vent. Also anything obstructing the vent, like the filter will tend to raise the fan noise as the air interacts with it. I wanted a fan to be as unobstructed as possible. The 90mm fan just fits over the exhaust vent nicely.

is this the fan you are using? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835209004
post #1338 of 1389
Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapB View Post

is this the fan you are using? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835209004

Yes, that's the one. I cut off the power connector and added the small trigger connector. It's very small, and it took a while to find that size connector; 3.5mm OD.

Alternatively you can just power it from a 12V adapter plugged into the wall; which I did for a while. So far I have not had a problem using the trigger control to power the fan.
post #1339 of 1389
Those that have added the fan modifications what kind of bulb life are you getting?
post #1340 of 1389
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Those that have added the fan modifications what kind of bulb life are you getting?

The fan is just an attempt to lower the temperatures in a machine that is reported as a lamp eater and that runs fairly hot given a 250 watt bulb in a confined space and a slow internal fan. It's not known if all H79s have poor lamp life or if its just a bad batch of machines or lamps.

What is known is that the temperatures definitely go down significantly (with some increase in noise), and to me, that's always good with electronics.

For now, the jury is out.
post #1341 of 1389
Thread Starter 
On the bottom of the projector the large filter screen is the main intake area which is where I have the fan laying towards the back of the PJ. This makes a B line striaght over to the side vent. I could very well add another fan and cover the whole filter area.

Someday when I ready I'll try to change the internal fan to a mega power fan if it looks simple enough. I took a look at the system through the empty bulb area. The fan looks like it's 4" and just has 4 screws holding it. It blows the air on the bulb, goes past the bulb, then it hits a wall at the front of the PJ to a chamber/left ending up at at back side exhaust vent.

I think the best thing we can do is install a high power loud as hell fan in place of the original fan.

I was talking with my friend about the bulbs going out, he said at times there can be bad batches of bulbs. They could have bad composition, forumla is off. Now the H79 bulbs were all phillips. Next up try the Orsram 250watt bulb it's a different company.
post #1342 of 1389
I usually get 2300-2500 hrs out of my bulbs, no added fans other than the original one inside the box. Have used orignal bulbs with the cages from Optoma before, but tried Osram replacement bulb only from purelandsupply.com now and it looks very good.

IMO, here in Europe, Osram is a better brand than Phillips. I expect at least the same hrs on this bulb as Optomas own in the cages.

H79.
post #1343 of 1389
Thread Starter 
My buddy says Orsram it a good outfit also, can't hurt to try one.
post #1344 of 1389
Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarman View Post

My buddy says Orsram it a good outfit also, can't hurt to try one.

Isn't Orsram made in China? Is that good?
post #1345 of 1389
Don't think so. Believe Osram is made in Europe, anyho it was for the last 30 years, unsure nowadays.

Osram lightbulbs in lamps etc. has always had a longer life than cheap noname brands here.
post #1346 of 1389
I have physically held the Orsam bulb next to the Phillips bulb and tried to determine the difference. The only discernible difference I could find was the label. One thing uncanny is the font used for the serial number (or whatever that number is on the outside of the reflector) is identical between the two.

You can draw your own conclusions about what supplier sources or manufacturing resources are shared by the two differently labeled bulbs.
post #1347 of 1389
Quote:
Originally Posted by LydMekk View Post

Don't think so. Believe Osram is made in Europe, anyho it was for the last 30 years, unsure nowadays.

Osram lightbulbs in lamps etc. has always had a longer life than cheap noname brands here.

Just looking on Ebay. It appears the lamp says: "Made in China".

Most likely in the same plant as Phillips!!
LL
post #1348 of 1389
Thread Starter 
My friend told me the Orsram is made by a different company then the Phillips lamps.
post #1349 of 1389
I was really thinking about adding a fan to my Optoma after seeing what you guys have been trying. It seems like my H78 runs pretty hot so I figured it would at least help a little and maybe I could squeeze some more hours out of each bulb. While researching some of the parts discussed (mainly where to find a suitable 12v power connector) I noticed some odd behavior with the projector this past week that may be heat related.

Here's what's happening:

Normally when you power down the projector by pressing the POWER LED button twice it turns off the lamp then runs the cooling fan for a few minutes until the unit cools then powers off completely. Last night I powered down the projector and I was milling around the room in the dark when I noticed a orange LED blinking at the end of the power off (cooling down) cycle. I wasn't exactly sure what happened or which LED was lit so today I tried it again and closely watched it after powering down the projector. What I see happening is at the end of the cooling off cycle The TEMP LED blinks orange for about 60 seconds after the unit has shut down. The fan was still running and there was some airflow while it was blinking orange.

On page 12 of the manual states that the unit is overheating or the fan is failing if this happens but it's unclear to which it is based on my symptoms.

Does anyone know what this means?

Thanks!
post #1350 of 1389
Thread Starter 
Try cleaning the filter and add a fan. Plus why not use the remote? I get the feeling the PJ's on a table. If so raise the PJ up on the legs as high as you can to get a better draw going into the bottom vent.
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