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New NHT Classic line to replace Super Audio - Page 319

post #9541 of 10233
3/16/11 at 6:17pm
Craw,

I agree,that is a great deal! I am not familiar with those, interesting. I started out with the Super Zeros, loved them at the time.

NHT4LIFE,

How do you like the blend of Revels and NHT's? I've heard them separately, but not mixed. I can see them working with movies, but how about multichannel music? An the center, does it pan pretty smoothly between the Revels and the NHT?
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post #9542 of 10233
3/16/11 at 6:42pm
NHT4LIFE,

How do you like the blend of Revels and NHT's? I've heard them separately, but not mixed. I can see them working with movies, but how about multichannel music? An the center, does it pan pretty smoothly between the Revels and the NHT?[/quote]

You would be very surprised how well they blend. i too was suspect as to how it would sound but i am very happy. I can tell you this... I am going to upgrade my 4 year old yamaha receiver before I worry about the speakers.
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post #9543 of 10233
3/21/11 at 5:55pm
The AT got Class C, limited extension, in the new Recommended Components. Had some limited hopes for B, based on the review, but C seemed logical.
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post #9544 of 10233
3/21/11 at 6:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianWilson View Post
The AT got Class C, limited extension, in the new Recommended Components. Had some limited hopes for B, based on the review, but C seemed logical.
Aww. It did seem like a long shot but I was hoping for B.
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post #9545 of 10233
3/22/11 at 12:29am
Hi, I just needed some advice regarding getting the most out of my classic 4's. Just a little background about my setup:
LR: Classic 4's,
Center: C3 center
Rear: ORB audio speakers
SW: ORB subwoofer that came with speaker.
Receiver: Pioneer SC-27

Currently, the C4's are hooked up to Pio, I tried bi-amping since the receiver is a 7.1 system however I did not really notice a big difference with the sound. I feel like that I'm not really getting the most out of the subs on the C4. So the options I came up with are:

1) Buy a new sub maybe HSU VTF-15
2) Buy an additional amp: I know when the C4's first came out they were matched with the A1 amp and X2 crossover. It seems these products have been discontinued. What alternatives are there to power and get the best sound out of the C4's?

Basically I want to fully utilize the C4's sub and would like the most cost-effective way to do so. Appreciate any advice on the setup or possible alternative options.

Thanks in advance for all your help!
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post #9546 of 10233
3/23/11 at 8:32am
Has anyone come across a site listing the frequency response for the classic 2's. I've searched and can not find it.
Thanks
Helier
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post #9547 of 10233
3/23/11 at 9:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by helier View Post

Has anyone come across a site listing the frequency response for the classic 2's. I've searched and can not find it.
Thanks
Helier

Helier,

From the NHT site:

Woofer - 6.5 polypropylene cone
Tweeter - 1 aluminum dome
Frequency Response - 51Hz- 20kHz
Crossover Frequency - 3 kHz
Crossover Slopes - 3kHz 18dB HP, 18dB LP
Sensitivity - 86dB
Impedance - 6 ohms
Power Handling - 125W
Inputs - 2 each nickel plated 5-way binding posts
Speaker Dimensions - 12.125"Hx 7"Wx 8.875"D
Speaker Weight - 12.7 lbs./5.8 kg each
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post #9548 of 10233
3/23/11 at 9:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clymer View Post

Hi, I just needed some advice regarding getting the most out of my classic 4's. Just a little background about my setup:
LR: Classic 4's,
Center: C3 center
Rear: ORB audio speakers
SW: ORB subwoofer that came with speaker.
Receiver: Pioneer SC-27

Currently, the C4's are hooked up to Pio, I tried bi-amping since the receiver is a 7.1 system however I did not really notice a big difference with the sound. I feel like that I'm not really getting the most out of the subs on the C4. So the options I came up with are:

1) Buy a new sub maybe HSU VTF-15
2) Buy an additional amp: I know when the C4's first came out they were matched with the A1 amp and X2 crossover. It seems these products have been discontinued. What alternatives are there to power and get the best sound out of the C4's?

Basically I want to fully utilize the C4's sub and would like the most cost-effective way to do so. Appreciate any advice on the setup or possible alternative options.

Thanks in advance for all your help!

Clymer,

You would need an electronic crossover like the X2 from NHT (now a vintage product, so look for used) and a 2 channel amp to power the subs for the Fours separately from their upper portion. You can also use another crossover like the Behringer:
http://backstage.musiciansfriend.com...182466.product

The thing you need to keep in mind is that the Fours' sub is internally XO'd at 125Hz, so you'll need to set the XO near that point or you'll be missing some Freq in that range (i.e. if you XO at 90Hz, you loose the 90-125 portion of the freq range).

The main advantage of using such a setup would be to increase the power to the sub portion of the Fours, but IMO the best best would be to spend money on a more powerful sub (or subs), you'll get more bang for the buck and much better sound (ideal placement of the subs are not usually the same spots as your mains). I actually crossover my Fours at 60Hz (at the usual 12db/octave in most AVR's, there is still energy at the 30Hz point, an the dynamics for the driver increase since it does not have the heavy bass load, which subs are designed for).
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post #9549 of 10233
3/23/11 at 9:59am
Is anyone still doing the 20hz mod for the x1? I would do it myself but my hands aren't steady enough.
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post #9550 of 10233
3/23/11 at 10:01am
Thanks for your help Chameleon.
What I was after was the frequency response curve, guess I was not clear on that.
What I'm trying to do is equalize my c2s since I have them inside a cabinet,
(no way around that I'm afraid) and I feel they are lacking in clarity.
I figured I'd look at that response curve and have a starting point.
Again thanks
Helier
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post #9551 of 10233
3/23/11 at 10:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by helier View Post

Thanks for your help Chameleon.
What I was after was the frequency response curve, guess I was not clear on that.
What I'm trying to do is equalize my c2s since I have them inside a cabinet,
(no way around that I'm afraid) and I feel they are lacking in clarity.
I figured I'd look at that response curve and have a starting point.
Again thanks
Helier

Ah, I see. The freq specs are within the + 3db range, but that will change if placed in a cabinet (must 'stand alone' speakers are not meant to be placed in a cabinet). Since you have no option, are you using an AVR with Audyssey or something like it? The software should correct the freq response. Also, make sure the front baffle of the C2 is as close to the edge as possible (would be much better if actually sticking out a bit). If you have 'grills' on the cabinet facing, then remove the grills of the C2. Do you have a pic of the setup by chance? Would be good to see what you're actually working with.

Thanks,
Ray
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post #9552 of 10233
3/23/11 at 10:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by positronic View Post

Is anyone still doing the 20hz mod for the x1? I would do it myself but my hands aren't steady enough.

Hi. Jack Hidley is still visiting the AVS forums, search for his name and send a PM to see if he's still doing the mods. I think he's the only one that can do it without voiding any warranty. It's actually not that hard (I did both of my X1's - still have spare caps/resisters since I had to buy a 'bulk' pack of each value). If you feel like tackling it yourself, I can mail you the parts and the schematics. If you want the schematics now, just PM me your email and I can send them to you.

One thing to keep in mind, if you do the mod, you loose some output at loud levels. If you have a very large room, you'll need 2 subs to make up for it. If only one sub in a large room, I wouldn't recommend doing the MOD, IMO.

Ray
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post #9553 of 10233
3/23/11 at 10:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianWilson View Post

The AT got Class C, limited extension, in the new Recommended Components. Had some limited hopes for B, based on the review, but C seemed logical.

I'm with Matt and you, wished for a Class B, but Class C is really not that bad for it's price range...
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post #9554 of 10233
3/23/11 at 10:50am
What exactly do different speaker classes mean?
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post #9555 of 10233
3/23/11 at 11:00am
Stereophile has their 'description' of each class at the beginning of the ratings section, can't think of them right off hand. But, 'in their opinion', briefly: Class A are reference speakers, Class B can be Class A with some limitations (LF, dynamics, etc.), and Class C even has more limitations than Class B (of course, all compared to the reference Class A speakers, and if you see that list, well: Revel Ultimas, Wilson, etc - all very expensive speakers.
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post #9556 of 10233
3/23/11 at 11:05am
Thanks again Ray,
The speakers are as far forward as I can place them and there are no other grills aside from the ones that come with the speakers themselves.
I have just ordered the microphone in order to do the automatic equalization that the Yamaha provides, so that will probably help. I'm a little leery about the automatic eq but I still retain the ability to alter the results if they prove to be too drastic so we'll see.
Helier
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post #9557 of 10233
3/23/11 at 11:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by helier View Post

Thanks again Ray,
The speakers are as far forward as I can place them and there are no other grills aside from the ones that come with the speakers themselves.
I have just ordered the microphone in order to do the automatic equalization that the Yamaha provides, so that will probably help. I'm a little leery about the automatic eq but I still retain the ability to alter the results if they prove to be too drastic so we'll see.
Helier

You're welcome! Yamaha uses their YPAO which is basically a 1/3 octave band parametric EQ (7 or 10 bands). It should help to flatten the freq response. Double check the crossover it sets though and raise it to 80hz if set too low (a lot of auto EQ programs set them too low) so that the subs do the heavy lifting for bass freq, giving your mains more dynamic range. Let us know how it sounds after your optimization. Also, since the speakers do not have anything in front of them, like I mentioned before, place them as far front as possible - helps minimize the 'in the cabinet' issues and diffraction issues.

Ray
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post #9558 of 10233
3/25/11 at 9:20am
Hey Ray,
Just wanted to let you know that I got the microphone and did the set up and wow!, what a difference!
The system now sounds much clearer.
Thanks again for your advice.
Helier
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post #9559 of 10233
3/26/11 at 8:12am
I seem to have a problem with the 3" midrange driver in my L5. I noticed it sounded off, so I played a 1khz test tone and there is nothing audible coming from this speaker, but my other surrounds are fine. I pulled out the driver and it passes the "battery" test. The connections seemed fine.

Should I assume that there is a problem with the crossover?
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post #9560 of 10233
3/26/11 at 12:52pm
I'm finally upgrading my 10+ year old system and I've decided on Absolute Towers and the TwoC as my front sound stage. I currently have 4 SuperOne's as surround speakers and plan on keeping those for the time being. I wish I could hear these baby's in action before I purchased them, but there's no showroom near where I live. I'm going off of my previous experience with NHT and a lot of the reviews on here.

I have a couple of questions before I pull the trigger, however. I'm currently using a VS 1.2a as my center channel, will the TwoC be a significant improvement over the VS 1.2a?? I figure the TwoC will match with the AT's better.

I will be employing heights or wides in my new system and I'm torn between the AZ's and the Classic 2's. I'm leaning towards the AZ because they are smaller and will be easier to place in my narrow room (24L x 11W x 7H). Will I lose much using the AZ's over the C2's as Wides/Heights??

Haven't decided on a Sub yet, might go with the NHT Absolute 5.1T System (upgrading to the TwoC) & b-10d. My room is T shaped which adds to the cubic footage. The extra space puts the room about 2300 cu ft. I just wonder if the b-10d will be enough or I'll need to upgrade to the b-12d.
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post #9561 of 10233
3/26/11 at 3:32pm
classic fours

This migh be a bit off topic...but, i just noticed on ebay a pair of fours and a 3c center
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post #9562 of 10233
3/26/11 at 4:53pm
Positronic,

Connect an ohmeter to the - terminal on the back of the cabinet and to the + terminal that connects to the midrange driver. The resistance should be under 1 ohm or so. If it is open circuit, then the Molex connector between the midrange chamber and the crossover PCB has probably come undone.

If not, remove all of the perimeter screws that hold the wood baffle to the aluminum extrusion in front. Remove the baffle. All of the drivers will come out with it. The crossover is mounted on the back of the midrange enclosure. Place a jumper wire across capacitor C2 (75uf). If that makes the midrange driver work, then C2 is blown. Other than that, there is probably a broken connection or lifted solder pad somewhere.
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post #9563 of 10233
3/26/11 at 8:12pm
Great to see you here again Jack!
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post #9564 of 10233
3/26/11 at 8:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by helier View Post

Hey Ray,
Just wanted to let you know that I got the microphone and did the set up and wow!, what a difference!
The system now sounds much clearer.
Thanks again for your advice.
Helier

Glad to be of help, always welcome. Enjoy your system Helier!
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post #9565 of 10233
3/26/11 at 8:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by drterb View Post

I'm finally upgrading my 10+ year old system and I've decided on Absolute Towers and the TwoC as my front sound stage. I currently have 4 SuperOne's as surround speakers and plan on keeping those for the time being. I wish I could hear these baby's in action before I purchased them, but there's no showroom near where I live. I'm going off of my previous experience with NHT and a lot of the reviews on here.

I have a couple of questions before I pull the trigger, however. I'm currently using a VS 1.2a as my center channel, will the TwoC be a significant improvement over the VS 1.2a?? I figure the TwoC will match with the AT's better.

I will be employing heights or wides in my new system and I'm torn between the AZ's and the Classic 2's. I'm leaning towards the AZ because they are smaller and will be easier to place in my narrow room (24L x 11W x 7H). Will I lose much using the AZ's over the C2's as Wides/Heights??

Haven't decided on a Sub yet, might go with the NHT Absolute 5.1T System (upgrading to the TwoC) & b-10d. My room is T shaped which adds to the cubic footage. The extra space puts the room about 2300 cu ft. I just wonder if the b-10d will be enough or I'll need to upgrade to the b-12d.

Hi! That would be a great upgrade. As for the Two C, yes, I thing you'll find it a better center - much better dispersion. But, if you can go with the Three C, it would give you better output and would match the AT's just fine. As for the heights/wides the AZ's would be just fine, the main difference is the crossover - you would just need to raise it a little compared to the C2. I actually feel that the AZ's would be better for the heights as they are a bit better off axis than the C2's due to the smaller baffle. I'm actually using the AZ's for my wides (not using heights since it's not really beneficial for the size of my room) with my mains being the Fours/ThreeC with great success.

AS for your sub, I'd recommend going with the B-12d. That is a fairly large room to compress for the B-10d. You could easily use 2 subs, but one may suffice depending on your listening habits (if listening at reference levels, the one sub may be pushing pretty hard in your room).

Have fun with your upgrade! I think you'll love it!

Ray
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post #9566 of 10233
3/28/11 at 6:28pm
Thanks for the advice Jack. I tried to take off the front panel after removing 8 screws but it didn't want to cone off easily. Do I need to remove the top and bottom "end caps"?

I managed to find a replacement L5 on craigslist, so I'm keeping the blown one for spare parts.
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post #9567 of 10233
3/29/11 at 1:54pm
I want to replace my 16 year old speakers with the Two C and Absolute Towers. I have a 73" DLP TV sitting on a Sanus cabinet which has a 26" wide opening for a center channel speaker. I believe the Two C is just under 20" wide so there is plenty of room. And finally, there are no back panels on the cabinet.

Does anyone have the Two C inside a cabinet? If so, how does it sound. I'm just wondering how much the cabinet changes the sonic characteristics of the speaker.

Thank you
Jim
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post #9568 of 10233
4/3/11 at 8:11am
I am looking to buy a new receiver and am curious, would the Denon 3311 have enough "oomph" to power 2 AT's, a 2C and four SuperOne surrounds? I want to make sure I give these speakers all the power they need ( though FYI, I don't listen to them above reference very often at all). Thanks.
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post #9569 of 10233
4/3/11 at 9:34am
The Denon 3311 should have no problem giving you the power you need, unless you have a very large room listening at reference levels (what is the size of your room?).
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post #9570 of 10233
4/3/11 at 9:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cavchameleon
The Denon 3311 should have no problem giving you the power you need, unless you have a very large room listening at reference levels (what is the size of your room?).
About 2300 square feet
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