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Toshiba HD CRT TV Owners: Problems, Fixes, Solutions, Services....Discuss Them Here!! - Page 39

post #1141 of 1376
3/12/07 at 10:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dimrp View Post

I apologize to those who may have already posted on this issue. I tried reading through as many of the posts as I could.

I purchased my 26HF85 a little over a year ago. It worked wonderfully until a few days ago. I pushed the manual power button on the front of the TV and I heard a slight pop noise. The TV just turned back off. I tried several more times and every time I attempt to turn the TV on, it just turns right back off. I waited a few days and still the same thing happens.

Anyhow, does anyone know what I could do to fix this so I can avoid spending $200 on a repair?

Thanks!
dimrp

I'm sorry to say, but you will need to take this one in for repair, because the horizontal output transistor in the power supply probably failed, and maybe the flyback and transformer as well. This is not a do-it-yourself repair. This is a complicated repair. Couple of people here had this same situation you are having right now. To me, it's not worth putting $200 to fix an Orion-made TV, but it's up to you. According to many TV technicians I spoke with, it's best to chuck it out when it first breaks.
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post #1142 of 1376
3/13/07 at 4:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by InYourEyes View Post

I'm sorry to say, but you will need to take this one in for repair, because the horizontal output transistor in the power supply probably failed, and maybe the flyback and transformer as well. This is not a do-it-yourself repair. This is a complicated repair. Couple of people here had this same situation you are having right now. To me, it's not worth putting $200 to fix an Orion-made TV, but it's up to you. According to many TV technicians I spoke with, it's best to chuck it out when it first breaks.

Thank you for your response. I guess I'll just have to get some more quotes on repairs.

dimrp
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post #1143 of 1376
3/25/07 at 1:54pm
I'm retiring my 26HF85. The contrast seemed to darken over time, and while HD games are not unplayable right now, they pale compared to the Syncmaster PC monitor I just bought. Since 360 was the only thing I used the HD for, I used a VGA cable to connect it to the monitor, and the difference for the 26HF to the monitor is larger than my Sony SDTV to the 26HF.

For reference, the monitor in question is a Syncmaster 206BW. PS3 looks great on it too. In fact, I'd say it's pointless to run HD games and movies (360 add-on) on the 26HF85, because it doesn't look like anywhere near HD compared to a decent alternative.

It's a shame this experience left me with a bad impression of CRT HDTV's. I wanted a Sony XBR970, but couldn't find one. Ah well, at least PS2 games look decent on the 26HF85, same with regular cable.
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post #1144 of 1376
3/25/07 at 1:59pm
Wow, really? My 26HF85 puts my friend's Sony LCD to shame in both sharpness and color quality(and obviously black levels). Guess that's what I get for paying for ISFing it.
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post #1145 of 1376
4/21/07 at 1:51pm
I have a problem with my Toshiba 34HF85....I want to connect a Wii to it, but I can't find the channel either for the video input 1, 2 or 3...

You guys can help me?
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post #1146 of 1376
4/21/07 at 2:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twilight Link View Post

I have a problem with my Toshiba 34HF85....I want to connect a Wii to it, but I can't find the channel either for the video input 1, 2 or 3...

You guys can help me?

Press the input button on the remote control.
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post #1147 of 1376
4/30/07 at 9:26pm
Bought this set from BB. Never did any calibration on it and it served ok (until I purchased a Sony 60XBR2 SXRD set for my parents and saw what real HD should look like). from reading this thread it seems like some better calibration can make this set look really good (i get all the problems with banding in HDMI, etc).

My real problem now is that I just came back from a business trip and my wife says the TV just crapped out. I see what she means, the picture is red. The best way to describe it is it looks like its color burned, missing blues, little brightness.

The set is between the 1 year P&L and 2 year tube warranty, and so if there's an easy reset I wouldn't mind trying that out before dishing out $3-400 for tube replacement labor (anyone have an idea how much that should cost?)

It almost looks like a good degauss would take care of the picture.
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post #1148 of 1376
5/6/07 at 10:35pm
I've tried to get an answer to this from Toshiba, but to no avail. Does anyone here know the difference between the 30HF84, 30HFX84, 30HF85, 30HFX85, and the 30HF66 (other than bezel color)? From what I can tell, they're all the same TV. What's the extra "X" mean? Is the "66" just the most recent of the 5 models even though it's also discontinued?
After more than a decade my JVC 31" SDTV finally gave out, and I'm convinced that my leap into HD should be a CRT set (with much thanks to all the great info I've read in these forums). However, the size constraints of my current entertainment center will only allow for a 30" 16:9 unit with the speakers on the bottom, so there's only a couple models for me to chose from. The Insignia NS-30HTV would fit, but you absolutely can't find anybody to say anything good about it. Samsung makes a couple models that would fit, but really I'm kind of sold on the Toshibas. All the Toshiba models mentioned above can be found at really decent prices on the internet (eBay and refurbished outlets mostly), but before I select one I'd like to know if one of them has some "feature" and/or "flaw" that I should know about.
TIA for any and all input.
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post #1149 of 1376
5/7/07 at 12:06am
The Toshiba models use the same basic components as the Insignia, but it's worth it to grab the Toshiba. They have more inputs(HDMI), slightly better reliability, and much better video processing.

They are also rather flawed. HDMI flickers with most everything except upscaling DVD players(because the image isn't quite full-sized), and 1080i thru component has a white fog that hangs from the top of the screen. I definitely prefer component over HDMI on these sets. However, the picture is fantastic after some calibration and easily trumps the Sanyo, Philips, and Samsung sets.

I'm not sure what the "x"'s in the model names mean(maybe PiP or SRS sound?), but the 84 is older and more reliable. The HF66 is only different from the HF85 due to the black trim and a built-in ATSC tuner.

Get a warranty, calibrate it, and you're good.
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post #1150 of 1376
5/7/07 at 2:55pm
The "X" in the model number refers to a superior built-in sound system.
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post #1151 of 1376
5/10/07 at 11:36am
Does anyone have a HD-DVD and/or Blu-Ray player hooked up via HDMI (HDMI for the standard DVD upconversion, of course) on this TV? If so, verdict? Any issues with the white glow and/or the flickering? Thank you in advance!
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post #1152 of 1376
5/10/07 at 1:07pm
Blu-ray thru HDMI does have the flickering. Upconverted DVD thru HDMI does not.

Best to use component for Blu-ray or HD-DVD.
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post #1153 of 1376
5/11/07 at 9:57am
That's truly a shame for with the component connection the standard DVD upconversion ability is lost. So how is the PQ? Is is better than cable's better HD broadcasts?
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post #1154 of 1376
5/11/07 at 11:29am
Hi gang. I posted this over in the Display Calibration section of the forum, but there's not much activity over there, apparently.

------------------------

I'm mostly a lurker on here, but now I have some newbie calibration questions. I used the service menu on my tv set to eliminate some overscan, but now I'm noticing ANOTHER really annoying and distracting display problem, that maybe someone can help me with....

I have a 26" Toshiba 26HF85 CRT HD-ready TV (Dec. 2005). I bought it in early 2006. Actually it's the Canadian edition, so technically it's 26HF85C. It has served my modest needs very well indeed. When I bought it, I was looking for a low-priced HD-capable set to watch DVDs in "anamorphic" quality. Plus SD over-the-air TV. Eventually I may subscribe to a HD service, or try out HD over-the-air reception, but for now I am satisfied with this set-up.

I've yet to see what a true HD signal looks like on this thing, so I don't know if it suffers from the 1080i "glow" at the top of the screen some folks have mentioned. But DVDs play back great. And the picture quality seems remarkably comparable to, or better than, all but the priciest LCD or plasma sets, to my eyes. My only real complaint (until recently) was the dreaded overscan, which was pretty severe. Also, there was a bit of bowing.

A few weeks ago, I bought the Digital Video Essentials calibration disc, and used it to refine the colour/tint and brightness/contrast settings. Big, big improvement. But I was still unhappy with all the overscan. So (very carefully), I ventured into the service menu.

I noted all of the caveats from folks on here -- I wrote down all the SM settings beforehand, and noted all changes. I tried not to change any setting that I didn't understand. More or less.

While viewing some anamorphic test patterns on the DVE disc, here's what I ended up changing to try and eliminate the overscan:

H. SIZE - changed from 42 to 34

V. SIZE - changed from 44 to 43

V. LIN - changed from 24 to 20

V. CENT - changed from 27 to 15

Also, I noticed that changing the setting EW PARA from 11 to 10 removed the bowing, which had been very noticeable, esp. in "Natural" 4:3 pillarbox mode. Finally, I changed the Image Tilt on my regular TV menu to -1.

The overscan is now just under the 5% mark on the DVE test pattern. When I tried to reduce the overscan further, to around 2.5% as suggested by someone on here, distortion was revealed at the outer edges, so I dialed it back to just under the 5% line. Maybe I could have fixed that distortion by changing some other SM settings, who knows? I wanted to tread lightly in there.

I did not try changing any other settings, like V. CORR or COR. TOP, etc., as recommended by some other posters to this site.

Using a grid test pattern and a ruler, the screen geometry now seems to my untrained eye to be totally OK.

BUT ... (sigh) ...

Ever since I made these SM changes, I can see a new problem: hugging the left edge of the screen, there's a half-inch wide, slightly brighter vertical band, and then immediately to its right, about an inch wide, slightly darker vertical band. There's a fainter "echo" of this dark band about an inch to the right. And I think another, barely visible, echo another inch to the right. Even though it's only a slight change in brightness, it can be very distracting in some scenes, eg. bright daylight scenes.

(When viewing over-the-air SD broadcasts, there's a similar ghosting effect on most of the channels -- again, by about an inch to the right. Is this just a coincidence, an unrelated artifact of poor OTA reception, or does it have something to do with my main problem??)

I assume that the only reason I can see this on the left edge of my screen now, where I didn't notice it before, is because it had been hidden by the overscan. Am I correct to think this? Or is it that my SM changes introduced it as an unintended side effect, which could be avoided if I tweak certain other SM settings?

Will I need to do a service call to fix this? Or is it too much to hope for that there are some SM settings I can play with by myself to correct it? I don't mind if I have to bring a technician into the apartment, but I really don't want to try and somehow move this heavy beast to a store somewhere. It weighs a ton.

Thanks in advance for any help. If I need to post any more info, such as more of my service menu settings, I can do that.
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post #1155 of 1376
5/11/07 at 1:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lennsx View Post

That's truly a shame for with the component connection the standard DVD upconversion ability is lost. So how is the PQ? Is is better than cable's better HD broadcasts?

You must've misread my post. Upconverted DVD do NOT flicker over HDMI. I watch my DVDs thru hdmi ONLY.

And yes, PQ order goes like this:
1. Blu-ray/HD-DVD
2. OTA HD
3. Cable HD
4. Satellite HD
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post #1156 of 1376
5/11/07 at 1:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ineffable27 View Post

Hi gang. I posted this over in the Display Calibration section of the forum, but there's not much activity over there, apparently.

------------------------

I'm mostly a lurker on here, but now I have some newbie calibration questions. I used the service menu on my tv set to eliminate some overscan, but now I'm noticing ANOTHER really annoying and distracting display problem, that maybe someone can help me with....

I have a 26" Toshiba 26HF85 CRT HD-ready TV (Dec. 2005). I bought it in early 2006. Actually it's the Canadian edition, so technically it's 26HF85C. It has served my modest needs very well indeed. When I bought it, I was looking for a low-priced HD-capable set to watch DVDs in "anamorphic" quality. Plus SD over-the-air TV. Eventually I may subscribe to a HD service, or try out HD over-the-air reception, but for now I am satisfied with this set-up.

I've yet to see what a true HD signal looks like on this thing, so I don't know if it suffers from the 1080i "glow" at the top of the screen some folks have mentioned. But DVDs play back great. And the picture quality seems remarkably comparable to, or better than, all but the priciest LCD or plasma sets, to my eyes. My only real complaint (until recently) was the dreaded overscan, which was pretty severe. Also, there was a bit of bowing.

A few weeks ago, I bought the Digital Video Essentials calibration disc, and used it to refine the colour/tint and brightness/contrast settings. Big, big improvement. But I was still unhappy with all the overscan. So (very carefully), I ventured into the service menu.

I noted all of the caveats from folks on here -- I wrote down all the SM settings beforehand, and noted all changes. I tried not to change any setting that I didn't understand. More or less.

While viewing some anamorphic test patterns on the DVE disc, here's what I ended up changing to try and eliminate the overscan:

H. SIZE - changed from 42 to 34

V. SIZE - changed from 44 to 43

V. LIN - changed from 24 to 20

V. CENT - changed from 27 to 15

Also, I noticed that changing the setting EW PARA from 11 to 10 removed the bowing, which had been very noticeable, esp. in "Natural" 4:3 pillarbox mode. Finally, I changed the Image Tilt on my regular TV menu to -1.

The overscan is now just under the 5% mark on the DVE test pattern. When I tried to reduce the overscan further, to around 2.5% as suggested by someone on here, distortion was revealed at the outer edges, so I dialed it back to just under the 5% line. Maybe I could have fixed that distortion by changing some other SM settings, who knows? I wanted to tread lightly in there.

I did not try changing any other settings, like V. CORR or COR. TOP, etc., as recommended by some other posters to this site.

Using a grid test pattern and a ruler, the screen geometry now seems to my untrained eye to be totally OK.

BUT ... (sigh) ...

Ever since I made these SM changes, I can see a new problem: hugging the left edge of the screen, there's a half-inch wide, slightly brighter vertical band, and then immediately to its right, about an inch wide, slightly darker vertical band. There's a fainter "echo" of this dark band about an inch to the right. And I think another, barely visible, echo another inch to the right. Even though it's only a slight change in brightness, it can be very distracting in some scenes, eg. bright daylight scenes.

(When viewing over-the-air SD broadcasts, there's a similar ghosting effect on most of the channels -- again, by about an inch to the right. Is this just a coincidence, an unrelated artifact of poor OTA reception, or does it have something to do with my main problem??)

I assume that the only reason I can see this on the left edge of my screen now, where I didn't notice it before, is because it had been hidden by the overscan. Am I correct to think this? Or is it that my SM changes introduced it as an unintended side effect, which could be avoided if I tweak certain other SM settings?

Will I need to do a service call to fix this? Or is it too much to hope for that there are some SM settings I can play with by myself to correct it? I don't mind if I have to bring a technician into the apartment, but I really don't want to try and somehow move this heavy beast to a store somewhere. It weighs a ton.

Thanks in advance for any help. If I need to post any more info, such as more of my service menu settings, I can do that.

You probably can't fix it. I would suggest moving the image horizontally and adjusting the size until the problem area is hidden and the other side of the screen is at the same percentage of overscan. 5% overscan isn't really that bad.
DVE is not an accurate source for adjusting overscan. Avia is much better in that area.

I have a very small red stripe on the right edge of my 26HF84. Hiding works just fine for me.

My Horizontal size is set at 20, and my horizontal position is set at 84(I think.).

Check back a few pages(page 35?36?) for my calibrated settings. Just wondering if they will work for you.

Also, you WILL have the "HD fog". It's a standard "feature" on these sets!
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post #1157 of 1376
5/11/07 at 2:15pm
fugio --

The affected area is too big for me to hide in that way -- that would mean too much overscan.

I don't think comparing calibration settings from one set to the next makes any sense (?) -- aren't there too many variables? Not just variance in components, but different alignment w/ earth's magnetic field, etc.? Someone in the know correct me about that, if I am wrong. I'm not going to change a setting unless I somewhat understand what it does (eg. what aspect of geometry is affected).

I have read accounts of folks who did not have the "glow" problem with this set. On this and other forums.

Thanks for replying ... but there was probably no need for you to quote my entire big-ass original post! Maybe you could go back and edit that out.
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post #1158 of 1376
5/11/07 at 2:33pm
Hello all. I purchased a 26HF66 back in January and I've been very happy with it with one exception. Whenever I'm watching an HD show (either over Component or HDMI) and it cuts to a very dark scene, the blacks get all muddy and it looks like the contrast goes way down. Conversely, in very bright scenes the contrast level looks much higher, sometimes too high. I've got SVM turned off, but I can't figure out anything else to try. Can I do anything to fix this, or is this just how this TV behaves? Does anyone have any suggestions?
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post #1159 of 1376
5/12/07 at 7:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fugiot View Post

You must've misread my post. Upconverted DVD do NOT flicker over HDMI. I watch my DVDs thru hdmi ONLY.

And yes, PQ order goes like this:
1. Blu-ray/HD-DVD
2. OTA HD
3. Cable HD
4. Satellite HD

I understand, but you wrote that Blu-Ray flickers thru HDMI (as does my OTA HD cable broadcast). So I guess you use the component cables for Blu-Ray & use HDMI for standard DVDs to upconvert, yes?
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post #1160 of 1376
5/12/07 at 11:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lennsx View Post

I understand, but you wrote that Blu-Ray flickers thru HDMI (as does my OTA HD cable broadcast). So I guess you use the component cables for Blu-Ray & use HDMI for standard DVDs to upconvert, yes?

Yes, I use component for HD-DVDs.

HDMI flickers when the image is touching the left edge of the screen(which is usually hidden by overscan). As bright objects enter and exit the left edge, they send a horizontal stripe of shadow across the entire screen.
Upconverted DVDs are usually slightly compressed and do not fill up the entire screen. Therefore, no objects enter or exit the very left edge of the screen.

This also means, if you are capable of adjusting the image position or size(such as in a PS3 or 360 game), you can eliminate the flicker all together by nudging it over just enough so it doesn't touch the left edge.
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post #1161 of 1376
5/12/07 at 11:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ineffable27 View Post

fugio --

The affected area is too big for me to hide in that way -- that would mean too much overscan.

I don't think comparing calibration settings from one set to the next makes any sense (?) -- aren't there too many variables? Not just variance in components, but different alignment w/ earth's magnetic field, etc.? Someone in the know correct me about that, if I am wrong. I'm not going to change a setting unless I somewhat understand what it does (eg. what aspect of geometry is affected).

I have read accounts of folks who did not have the "glow" problem with this set. On this and other forums.

Thanks for replying ... but there was probably no need for you to quote my entire big-ass original post! Maybe you could go back and edit that out.fugio --

The affected area is too big for me to hide in that way -- that would mean too much overscan.

I don't think comparing calibration settings from one set to the next makes any sense (?) -- aren't there too many variables? Not just variance in components, but different alignment w/ earth's magnetic field, etc.? Someone in the know correct me about that, if I am wrong. I'm not going to change a setting unless I somewhat understand what it does (eg. what aspect of geometry is affected).

I have read accounts of folks who did not have the "glow" problem with this set. On this and other forums.

Thanks for replying ... but there was probably no need for you to quote my entire big-ass original post! Maybe you could go back and edit that out.fugio --

The affected area is too big for me to hide in that way -- that would mean too much overscan.

I don't think comparing calibration settings from one set to the next makes any sense (?) -- aren't there too many variables? Not just variance in components, but different alignment w/ earth's magnetic field, etc.? Someone in the know correct me about that, if I am wrong. I'm not going to change a setting unless I somewhat understand what it does (eg. what aspect of geometry is affected).

I have read accounts of folks who did not have the "glow" problem with this set. On this and other forums.

Thanks for replying ... but there was probably no need for you to quote my entire big-ass original post! Maybe you could go back and edit that out.

Yeah, my geometry settings would most definitely not work. I was just wondering about the picture settings, because they should be similar.

And I can bet you that every one of these sets has "the glow". Maybe some people just didn't see it, or were using a 720p signal. There's 6 different ways to feed these sets HD, and 16 total picture input combinations. Only 2 of them display the glow.
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post #1162 of 1376
5/12/07 at 2:32pm
Hey fugiot...

Ah the picture settings ....

Code:
BRI   23
CON   15
COLOR 26
TINT -10
The 1080 glow issue doesn't sound that bad, considering ... at 26" size, 720p is still great for the price. It's still HD.

Meanwhile... does anyone else have any thoughts about my "darkish bands" problem? TIA.
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post #1163 of 1376
5/12/07 at 3:19pm
actually, 720p on the Toshibas is roughly equal to 600k pixels. Which is only 50% more than the 400k pixels in 480p.

1080i is roughly 1Mpixel. The same as true 720p.
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post #1164 of 1376
5/14/07 at 10:05pm
I bought a Toshiba 34HDX82 five years ago, thinking it would be relatively future-proof with its HDCP-compliant DVI input.

Well, the future is here. I bought a Sony laptop (VGN-AR290G) with Blu-ray drive. Plugged it into the Tosh's DVI input, worked beautifully for the first two movies we watched.

But often I can't get it to work at all. WinDVD BD says my display isn't HDCP compliant. Except it is. Or was, five years ago?

And there's no rhyme or reason, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. It can be working fine, I hit Stop, then Play again, and get the error message. It can be not working, and I hit Play a fifth time, and it works again. Or I can hit Play 30 times in a row, no joy.

By this point, my wife has gone to bed. I've been told never to get any more Blu-ray discs. She HATES Blu-ray. At least DVD works.

I tried rebooting.
I tried another HDMI-DVI cable.
I tried turning on the TV before the laptop.
I tried turning on the laptop before the TV.
I tried switching between the laptop display and TV while the movie is playing.
I tried upgrading the nVidia driver to the latest version (then backed it out).
I tried PowerDVD Ultra--no more audio sync problems, but has same HDCP problem.

I have only one monitor active in Display Properties.
I have no problems viewing Blu-ray on my HDCP-compliant Samsung 244t computer monitor.
I have no problems using my Samsung DTB-H260F set top box on the 34HDX82's DVI input.

So...any suggestions for this HDCP handshake problem? Are old HDCP implementations incompatible? Is Toshiba's implementation flawed? Is Sony deliberately incompatible with arch-rival Toshiba?

Is the only solution to give up on the Tosh and buy a new LCD? I'm going to miss those black blacks.

Thanks for any ideas,
Bob


p.s. lennsx, to answer your earlier question, I've never seen any flicker over HDMI, the picture is beautiful...when it works.


EDIT: The only solution I've been able to find is AnyDVD HD, which lets you use any monitor, HDCP-compliant or not. Works like a charm with PowerDVD Ultra. I shouldn't have to pay $79 to watch use my HDCP-compliant TV, but it's cheaper than a new set.

http://www.slysoft.com/en/anydvdhd.html
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post #1165 of 1376
5/14/07 at 10:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Whitefield View Post

p.s. lennsx, to answer your earlier question, I've never seen any flicker over HDMI, the picture is beautiful...when it works.

You don't see any flickering because your TV was made by Toshiba.
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post #1166 of 1376
5/21/07 at 5:07pm
Does this TV have a white fog at the top thru 1080 component? Does it flicker cuz that would stink with PS3 or X360?

Can I play with the service settings to get SD programming with windowboxing to zoom in without cutting off parts of the image? Any reason why the image shifts to one side as it zooms in cuz it doesn't look like the zoom is centered?
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post #1167 of 1376
5/25/07 at 10:04pm
I am having a problem with my 32HF72. It is 4 and a half years old, and has worked perfectly until this evening.

What is happening is when powering the tv on, the little power light comes on, then there is a click within the tv, which is normal. Then the little power light flashes, then there is another click. This light will keep flashing until the tv is unplugged. No popping sounds were heard prior to this, and no smell of smoke. We have tried different outlets of course, and nothing has helped.

Is it screwed, and does anyone have any ideas on how much it would cost to get fixed?
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post #1168 of 1376
5/29/07 at 2:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by fugiot View Post

First off, set the screen mode to "Full" and then enter the Service Menu. Turn Volume to "0", hold the 'volume down' button on the front of the set and then hold '9' on the remote until the service menu appears. Use the up/down arrows to navigate and left/right arrows to modify. Make sure to write down all of your current settings! I don't want to be to blame if my settings don't work for you. Change the settings to the following values and then press 'menu' on the remote to exit the SM.

Thanks so much for the help on getting into the service menu! I was having certain visual problems with my Toshiba tv that I was able to take care of in the service menu, so now I am extremely pleased with the quality of my CRT tube tv and won't be returning it.
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post #1169 of 1376
6/1/07 at 3:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ineffable27 View Post


BUT ... (sigh) ...

Ever since I made these SM changes, I can see a new problem: hugging the left edge of the screen, there's a half-inch wide, slightly brighter vertical band, and then immediately to its right, about an inch wide, slightly darker vertical band. There's a fainter "echo" of this dark band about an inch to the right. And I think another, barely visible, echo another inch to the right. Even though it's only a slight change in brightness, it can be very distracting in some scenes, eg. bright daylight scenes.

This banding effect is the exact same thing I have. It started appearing over time. It's not too bothersome, but I can tell it's the TV and not the settings.

It's not surprising to say the least. Some people are happy with these Toshiba sets, most aren't.
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post #1170 of 1376
6/10/07 at 9:24pm
hi everyone, i searched through as much of this thread as i could handle, yet didn't exactly find my answer. Im not familiar with much of the vocabulary of HDTVs other than the above-than-basics, (i.e., i know HDMI, component, 1080i, 720p, etc etc). Basically my 26HF15 HDTV flickers with my Xbox 360 using component cables in 1080i. I've set my 360 to 1080i in its settings, and the sharpness in it is much better than when set in 720p (upconverted) or 480p. It looks real nice, and I feel that it runs smoother, but I constantly have a flicker when playing games, such as madden 07. The TV seems to want to autobalance the colors and contrast, so that I get most of the picture turned red when the scene is blueish, and visa versa. I also noticed it flickered when the color was turned down, showing me that it also tried to adjust the darkness and brightness of the picture. PLEASE help, I love this TV and this is it's only flaw, and the difference in picture quality from 1080i from upconverted 720p is IMMENSE, so please help.
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AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Direct View (single tube) CRT Displays › Toshiba HD CRT TV Owners: Problems, Fixes, Solutions, Services....Discuss Them Here!!