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Toshiba HD CRT TV Owners: Problems, Fixes, Solutions, Services....Discuss Them Here!! - Page 40

post #1171 of 1387
Im sorry to say but the best solution is to run the 360 at 720p. I had another version of this tv and had the same problem. I found the only solution was 720p.
post #1172 of 1387
Actually, 1080i works much better for CRT hdtvs. Especially on these Toshiba's, the scaler is not so good and 720p signals lead to artifacts and vibration. 1080i is the way to go.
post #1173 of 1387
well my point is that 1080i IS the best way to run it, especially since the TV isnt 720p native, so it's converting.
post #1174 of 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by huked0nfonicks View Post

well my point is that 1080i IS the best way to run it, especially since the TV isnt 720p native, so it's converting.

Yes, and the 360 has a much better scaler than our poor little ToshOrions...
post #1175 of 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by huked0nfonicks View Post

hi everyone, i searched through as much of this thread as i could handle, yet didn't exactly find my answer. Im not familiar with much of the vocabulary of HDTVs other than the above-than-basics, (i.e., i know HDMI, component, 1080i, 720p, etc etc). Basically my 26HF15 HDTV flickers with my Xbox 360 using component cables in 1080i. I've set my 360 to 1080i in its settings, and the sharpness in it is much better than when set in 720p (upconverted) or 480p. It looks real nice, and I feel that it runs smoother, but I constantly have a flicker when playing games, such as madden 07. The TV seems to want to autobalance the colors and contrast, so that I get most of the picture turned red when the scene is blueish, and visa versa. I also noticed it flickered when the color was turned down, showing me that it also tried to adjust the darkness and brightness of the picture. PLEASE help, I love this TV and this is it's only flaw, and the difference in picture quality from 1080i from upconverted 720p is IMMENSE, so please help.

Try my ISF settings. Ignore the geometry settings tho. Make sure you WRITE YOUR SETTINGS DOWN! before you change anything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fugiot View Post

Since I know I wanted these when I first got my set, I'm going to share my ISF settings with all you 26HF(84/85/14/15/66) owners. We all know that every CRT is different, but maybe these will work or at least head you in the right direction. Also, these are optimized for HD sources.


First off, set the screen mode to "Full" and then enter the Service Menu. Turn Volume to "0", hold the 'volume down' button on the front of the set and then hold '9' on the remote until the service menu appears. Make sure to write down all of your current settings. I don't want to be to blame if my settings don't work for you. Change the settings to the following values and then press 'menu' on the remote to return.


Items #2-#23 are Geometry settings and a different for each set. Only use these for experimentation as I can guarantee you they are not the correct settings for your particular set.

2. H. POSI - 84
3. V. POSI - 1
4. H. SIZE - 20
5. V. SIZE - 40
6. V. LIN - 27
7. V-EHT - 4
8. H-EHT - 2
9. V-BLK P - 31
10. V-BLK S - 0
11. V. CENT - 31
12. V. LIMIT - 0
13. V. CORR - 13
14. V.S. CORR - 40
15. EW PARA - 10
16. TRAPEZIUM - 45
17. COR. TOP - 16
18. COR. BTM - 15
19. S. CORR - 17
20. CORNER - 16
21. C. PARA - 6
22. C. SAW - 6
23. V. SYMM - 128


The following are the picture settings and are roughly equal across all sets. They may need slight adjustments, but it will be pretty darned close to perfect.

24. R. BIAS - 69
25. G. BIAS - 63
26. B. BIAS - 93
27. R/G. DRV - 77
28. B/R. DRV - 60
Items #29 through #38 are for the 'cool' and 'warm' color temp settings. I didn't include them because they are unused.
39. R-Y GAIN - 1
40. R-Y PAHSE - 0
41. G-Y GAIN - 2
42. G-Y PAHSE - 1
43. BRI. CENT - 227
44. BRI. MAX - 232
45. BRI. MIN - 222
46. CONT. CENT - 63
47. CONT. MAX - 71
48. CONT. MIN - 55
49. COL. CENT - 42
50. COL. MAX - 43
51. COL. MIN - 37
52. SUB CONT - 0
53. TINT - 66
54. SHARP CENT - 63
55. SHARP MAX - 95
56. SHARP MIN - 31
57. TILT CENT - 138

Exit the Service Menu by pressing the "menu" button, press the tv/video button and repeat all settings on all 7 inputs.

Then, exit service menu, change to "Theater Wide 3" screen setting, enter service menu again and change V. SIZE to 50. This is ideal for widescreen 4:3 viewing from SD sources. Make sure "TheaterWide 1" is set exactly the same as "Full". "TheaterWide 2" is unused.


Once you have all the service menu set up, set your main menu settings like this.

S-video(or composite) connection:::
Brightness - 0
Contrast - 25(set to '50' for a brighter picture)
Color - 0
Tint - 0
Sharpness - 25
Cable Clear - Off
Color Temp - Medium
SVM - Off

Colorstream Component:::
Brightness - 25
Contrast - 25 for HD(50 for a brighter SD picture, 0 for night HD)
Color - 25
Tint - 0
Sharpness - 25 (set to 50 for slightly enhanced sharpness)
Cable Clear - Off
Color Temp - Medium
SVM - Off

HDMI:::
Brightness - 50
Contrast - 25 for HD(set to 50 for a brighter SD picture, set to 0 for night HD)
Color - 50
Tint - 0
Sharpness - 25(set to 50 for slightly enhanced sharpness)
Cable Clear - Off
Color Temp - Medium
SVM - Off


Yes, did you notice? All the SM settings are to make the main menu settings easy to remember by leaving most of them at default(25).

For example, Bright. Max in the SM corresponds to 'Brightness@50' in the User menu
Bright.Cent in SM = 'Brightness@25' in UM
Bright.Min in SM = 'Brightness@0' in UM.

Enjoy! Hopefully they work for you like they do for me. Looks as good as a Sony now....a non-ISF'd Sony.
post #1176 of 1387
damn, they didnt work. our TVs must be different. Im in a real jam here. I bought this TV used, so I don't have the original bill. According to the manual, the warranty is voided without the original bill. Do you guys think I should still spam the hell out of them until I get a replacement?
post #1177 of 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by huked0nfonicks View Post

damn, they didnt work. our TVs must be different. Im in a real jam here. I bought this TV used, so I don't have the original bill. According to the manual, the warranty is voided without the original bill. Do you guys think I should still spam the hell out of them until I get a replacement?

Did the original owner buy this 26HF15 from Costco? If so, you can return it back for a full refund and not deal with this Orioshiba mess. Ask the seller if he or she still has the receipt.
post #1178 of 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by huked0nfonicks View Post

damn, they didnt work. our TVs must be different. Im in a real jam here. I bought this TV used, so I don't have the original bill. According to the manual, the warranty is voided without the original bill. Do you guys think I should still spam the hell out of them until I get a replacement?

Also, you don't have anything hooked up to HDMI, do you? If I'm playing 360 over component and the HDMI input is active with my OTA receiver, it makes the component flicker. So I just shut-off my OTA and it stops.
post #1179 of 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by fugiot View Post

Also, you don't have anything hooked up to HDMI, do you? If I'm playing 360 over component and the HDMI input is active with my OTA receiver, it makes the component flicker. So I just shut-off my OTA and it stops.

nope i dont. does the 360 premium support HDMI cables? if so, I might go ahead and buy some and just complain about the white fuzz.

Quote:
Originally Posted by InYourEyes View Post

Did the original owner buy this 26HF15 from Costco? If so, you can return it back for a full refund and not deal with this Orioshiba mess. Ask the seller if he or she still has the receipt.

Ill ask. thanks, good idea.
post #1180 of 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by huked0nfonicks View Post

nope i dont. does the 360 premium support HDMI cables? if so, I might go ahead and buy some and just complain about the white fuzz.

Nope, only the Elite supports HDMI.
post #1181 of 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by fugiot View Post

Nope, only the Elite supports HDMI.

damn. I think I'll jsut have to put up a stink with Toshiba. Or craigslist it...I mena it does work, its just the F'ed up model. haha.

So have we determined that the problem with these models is the component parts on the TV? Thats what I gathered, and if so which parts? I could order them and have someone professionally replace them if I knew the specific parts/part numbers.


bump
post #1182 of 1387
bump
post #1183 of 1387
I bought a 30HF85 last August. Thank you for all the information I have read on this thread. It has helped me tremendously. I do still have one problem I am trying to solve and of course Toshiba has not been any help. Anything that is red tends to pixelate during fast motion. The cable company has run all new cable to the tv and the new cable does not have a signal split. They also say the signal strength is fine. I have gone from component to HDMI and the problem is still there, though not as bad. Is this something that is the cable company's issue (Time Warner) or do I need to take the TV in for repair before the warranty runs out. I live 60 miles from the nearest service center and I am pretty sure I will have to take the heavy SOB in myself.

Any other ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks!
post #1184 of 1387
In my opinion, the red pixelation seems to be from the cable. These CRTs are great with motion; I get the same effect as you via cable reception but through DVD & HD-DVD (WOW!) there is no pixelation or macroblocking whatsoever.
post #1185 of 1387
Hey folks. I'm planing on getting an HD DVD player soon, and I want to upgrade my TV to an HDTV. I really like CRT's but no one at Best Buy can help me out. So I did some shopping online and stumbled across this:

Toshiba MW26H82 26" Pure Flat CRT HDTV with VCR and DVD Player


Is this a good choice? Thanks in advanced!
post #1186 of 1387
How much is it? Where did you find it?

I'd say if it's $400 or under, get it. Keep in mind that you MUST get it calibrated, at least a simple Avia or DVE calibration. So be prepared to order a calibration DVD and spend some time on it. THEN you'll be real happy.
post #1187 of 1387
It's on Amazon for almost $500. Can't post the link because the fourm won't let me. Just type: "Toshiba MW26H82 26" Pure Flat CRT HDTV with VCR and DVD Player" in Amazon's search and it'll come up.
post #1188 of 1387
Well, I know what TV it is. So just make sure you are prepared to deal with the naunces it may have. Look around these forums at the 26HF84, 26HF85, and the 26HF66. You'll get a good idea of what it's like.
post #1189 of 1387
Sadly, the white glow is there via 1080i component on HD-DVDs as well.
AND, via HDMI the shadow banding issue is apparent as well, although not
as bad as it is via my cable box. But on a happier note, I watched BATMAN BEGINS
& THE DEPARTED and the image was FLAWLESS (minus the white glow, IE)
post #1190 of 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by lennsx View Post

Sadly, the white glow is there via 1080i component on HD-DVDs as well.
AND, via HDMI the shadow banding issue is apparent as well, although not
as bad as it is via my cable box. But on a happier note, I watched BATMAN BEGINS
& THE DEPARTED and the image was FLAWLESS (minus the white glow, IE)

lennsx - I just purchased the Tosh A2 HD-DVD and hooked it up to my set via the component (Colorstream) input. By selecting 720p on the A2, I get a gorgeous picture on my 34HF85 and no white glow. With 1080i selected, I get the infamous glow. I have not tried the HDMI connection yet, but suspect I too would see the banding problems by connecting to my set using the HDMI input. Am watching the Planet Earth HD-DVD series and the PQ is just terrific. Happy viewing and best regards.
post #1191 of 1387
Frank! Good to hear from ya! You know, I never even thought of setting my A2 to 720p but it makes sense now! The TV automatically upconverts to 1080i anyway!
So, in your TVs setting, do you have the resolution set at 540p or 1080i? I'm assuming 1080i, right? This is great news, because the PQ is PERFECT other than that darned white glow!
I'm going to try it tonight! Thanks again!
post #1192 of 1387
Frank, quick question; did you notice any loss of resolution or detail/ any added noise, etc. by selecting 720p as opposed to 1080i via the HD-A2's settings?
post #1193 of 1387
Guys, if you are getting the white glow, you have your brightness too high and you are washing out colors as well! Turn it down.

Also, you are losing 300k pixels by running 720p.

On these sets,
720p = 600k pixel resolution
1080i = 900k pixel resolution.
post #1194 of 1387
But doesn't this TV upconvert a 720p signal to 1080i? (or I think one can set it to 540p if they choose). I do know for a fact that this TV cannot output 720p; only 540p or 1080i. (540 + 540 = 1080)
post #1195 of 1387
Yes, it converts it to 1080i, but that doesn't make it 1080i. You only get as much detail as you put into it. The TV can't magically fill in the missing detail.

It converts 480i to 1080i also, but that doesn't make it HD.
post #1196 of 1387
Ahhh, true dat. So if I set my player to output 720p, it's going to "think" that it has to upconvert (and may even downconvert first to do that?) to 1080i, thus with all of that zany overconversion going on, the final image/resolution will be compromised.
post #1197 of 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by lennsx View Post

Frank! Good to hear from ya! You know, I never even thought of setting my A2 to 720p but it makes sense now! The TV automatically upconverts to 1080i anyway!
So, in your TVs setting, do you have the resolution set at 540p or 1080i? I'm assuming 1080i, right? This is great news, because the PQ is PERFECT other than that darned white glow!
I'm going to try it tonight! Thanks again!

lennsx - I do not discern a marked degradation in picture detail or quality at 720p when playing high definition source material such as the recently issued Planet Earth HD-DVD series. I did not do anything to the settings in the 34HF85 -- the CRT settings remain set at 1080i (not 540p). Prior to changing the setting in the A2 HD-DVD to 720p, I was seeing three problems: 1) white glow at the top of the set; 2) seeing some banding artifiacts that were particularly noticeable on blue backgrounds as a moving curtain of diagonal lines across the screen, AND 3)flickering in bright scenes. After setting the A2 to 720p, the image is stable and stunning on my set and there is no white glow, no flickering, and not a trace of banding problems.

I am not doubting fugiot's point regarding the lower pixel resolution, but this is a no brainer for me because, on my set, by adjusting the HD-DVD player to 720p I elimnate a raft of problems. Increased pixel resolution is one thing, but if it comes along with picture noise and uneven brightness as it does on my set, it yields an unsatisfactory viewing experience. I have tried lowering the brightness, but this does nothing to eliminate the banding/noise problems and I find that the picture is too dark for my liking and detail is lost in dark scenes. Lower pixel resolution or not, the 720p is the best solution for me on this particular set with this HD-DVD player.

All of the above concerns using component (Colorstream) connections. I cannot speak to using an HDMI connection yet as I have not tried it in combination with the A2 and my 34HF85. I will experiment with it and report back in a subsequent post. Naturally, if I find that I can leave the A2 settings on 1080i using the HDMI connection and I get no banding or other problems by doing so, that will be a happy outcome. My experience with the 34HF85 using the HDMI input to connect an Oppo upconverting DVD player was reported previously in this thread but, in short, I saw a shadowy curtain of moving diagonal lines when connecting this DVD player via HDMI and setting the Oppo to 1080i. Perhaps the Tosh A2 HD-DVD player will behave differently. I hope it will so that I can experience 1080i using this HD-DVD player without other annoying problems diminishing the experience.
post #1198 of 1387
Thank you, Frank. I experimented in my Service Menu last night using Fugiot's settings and managed to lessen the white glow via 1080i by half the intensity. VERY cool. I also took your suggestion and set the HD-A2 to 720p and did notice a slight degradation in PQ but as you stated, it did remove the glow COMPLETELY. So basically, it's a toss-up for me. As for the shadow banding via HDMI, it is (sadly) there just as it is via HDMI w/set-top-box cable reception. I put on BATMAN BEGINS and viola! Banding On The Run, haha. And even though it was oh-so slight, it bothered me too much to HDMI it. If I or yourself can somehow get rid of said issue, we'll let each other know! (Now, as for those crushed blacks.....
post #1199 of 1387
Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I'm an owner of the 27 inch Toshiba HD CRT ( I forget the product code.) The PQ is great, however I do have some overscan on the bottom and sides of it. How do I fix it, seeing as I'm quite new to this.

Edit, I don't mean like a little overscan, I mean like half and inch of overscan. The bottom isn't that bad, it's pretty normal, it's mostly on the left and right. The "bars" on the left and right are smaller than they should be.
post #1200 of 1387
Quote:
Originally Posted by seamus21514 View Post

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I'm an owner of the 27 inch Toshiba HD CRT ( I forget the product code.) The PQ is great, however I do have some overscan on the bottom and sides of it. How do I fix it, seeing as I'm quite new to this.

Edit, I don't mean like a little overscan, I mean like half and inch of overscan. The bottom isn't that bad, it's pretty normal, it's mostly on the left and right. The "bars" on the left and right are smaller than they should be.

You would need to go into the service menu and adjust the screen. To enter the service menu, turn the volume all the way down to 0. While holding the volume down button at the front of the TV, press 9 on the remote for about three seconds, and then the service menu appears. This procedure works for all Toshiba 27" CRT TVs made after 2001 (2003 if flat-screen). Hope this helps.
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